Do you have a way to use wood heat?

Of the two you mentioned propane would likely store better long term. BUY your tank and bury it if possible or build ballistic protection around it if you have to put it above ground. Do NOT place it right next to a structure as the gas man will try to do telling you that it will save money on copper lines.

Owning the tank versus leasing it, allows you to shop around for LP, usually saving $.25 or more per gallon. I've long since broke even on the 500 gallon tank we bought in the late 90's being able to shop around for price.

Hands down, kerosene.  Buy it from the pump to save money and 20 gallons in a tower on low will last about five days.

That said, I have both.  Propane is easier to use but other than a little Heater Buddy a much higher initial cost and once get into days your grill size tanks are too small and propane delivery companies don't like to deliver to occasional customers.

Some advice, avoid the small radiant type kerosene heaters.  They work fine short term a few times but they have inherent design issue that can lead to fume smells.  They have to control that wick height very tightly to get the burn to get that radiant light to reflect.  The towers have way more wick adjustment.  Both work on a re-burner cage technology much the like the catalytic converter in your car.  When that cage gets hot, it re burns the excess fuel and converts CO to safe CO2.  It also reduces smell.  Initial fire up, I do mine outdoors.  Once its hot, I move it inside and then keep it running till its time to not, otherwise repeat.

Now a warning, a lot of folks buy propane heaters thinking they are indoor safe and they are not.  For example, the big nice propane forced air heaters shaped like a torpedo aren't.  They put out CO.  Always look for "indoor rated" and another way is any indoor rated heater will have just like the kerosene heaters a secondary burn system.  For example, the Heater Buddy line that's indoor rated uses a wire mesh over ceramic burner face.

I like propane for a one room area heater and kerosene for a whole house area heater.  Of course, long term, best to plan on having a coal or wood burning backup but keep in mind, in long term thinking you will need to have a source for either wood or coal.  I get a kick out of folks saying they're all set for EOTWAWKI SHTF yet they don't have enough wood, coal, or  to last a single winter and no source other than buying it from someone which is no different than kerosene or propane.

Now this leads us to augmenting your whole house heating system.  In that, wood or coal are kings but then they're not the only game either.  I for example this time of year use quite a few little electric room heaters.  I can set my whole hose thermostat down very low and only use area heat where I am, like in the bathroom before a shower, etc.  Now keep in mind of this the location of your whole house thermostat.  For example, when I use my nice radiant wood case electric heater in my livingroom my actual whole house despite the thermostat being at 68 will drop as low as 66 due to the heat from that heater impacting the thermostat temperature.

Now this takes us to whole house heat.  The biggest mistake home owners make is not controlling the heat in their homes room by room by adjusting their vents and/or changing their door open or close habits.  The best way to do this is over time use a thermometer to measure room temperature at your normal door open or close. Then keep adjusting the vents till you get it where you want it.  Amazon sells a nice humidity monitor for $10 now that not only tells you humidity daily high and low but temperature high and low.  This way you can control the heat so everything is the same temperature or this room slightly cooler whatever to what you want.  The advantage is it also saves money.

Why bring this up?  Its the same principle when you switch over to your whole house auxiliary heat except now instead of vents, you adjust door openings to accomplish the same task.  I bring this up because man I could write a book on when I've had to switch to central heat telling people "You better leave that door open or its going to be damn cold" and I'm talking old folks who grew up in homes with nothing but a pot belly stove.  There was a reason back then those houses didn't have doors between rooms.

Another thing to keep in mind when talking auxiliary comfort items is don't forget summer.  Back when I was boy and nobody had AC houses had very tall windows that opened both top and bottom and high ceilings.  That wasn't simply a matter of styling of the day.   It had to do with airflow and keeping the homes cool in summer.  People think we in the south back then suffered all summer but we didn't  My life wasn't much different than today.  You get use to temperatures.  It's that time to get use to it that we're miserable.  Anyway houses today get damn hot without the central air they are designed for, intolerable hot.  I did a survey once in FL for generators and was taken about how much importance the folks had on cooling, as much on cooling as folks do up north on heating.  That was their routine after a hurricane outage.  Keep the friges going during the day then run the window AC to cool it down so they could sleep at night.

I'll end this by reminding everyone "Its not he who barely survives that wins.  Its he who barely notices it." There's no prizes for suffering.  Its just suffering.

Tj