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Posted: 12/8/2018 5:29:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Is a culvert an option?
As much as I LOVE bridges (former Combat Construction Specialist/Bridge Crewman) I think I would lean toward a culvert for a little span like that. |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 5:46:13 PM EDT
[#2]
Uhm yea, that might actually be option
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Posted: 12/8/2018 5:56:43 PM EDT
[#3]
We built 2 at my farm. Drove piling (old steel drill pipe) in the ground on either side. Used 3 old rail road ties for the base. Did cross wise with cheap landscaping ties, topped with some old 1in expanded steel to protect from tracks.
Built the embankment up after it was done. Holds up to a 17k lbs dozer so far... |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 5:58:41 PM EDT
[#4]
I built a 6' wide bridge over a small stream, maybe a 4' span. I used pressure treated 4x6s, 4 pieces spaced at 2', 4' long and screwed down 2x6' for the deck. I have driven my 88 long bed Ranger pickup full of wood over it many times since 1998 when I built it. I did screw a 2x6 across the ends of the 4x6s to keep them aligned. Each end is supported by creek rock and gravel.
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Posted: 12/8/2018 6:02:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I built a 6' wide bridge over a small stream, maybe a 4' span. I used pressure treated 4x6s, 4 pieces spaced at 2', 4' long and screwed down 2x6' for the deck. I have driven my 88 long bed Ranger pickup full of wood over it many times since 1998 when I built it. I did screw a 2x6 across the ends of the 4x6s to keep them aligned. Each end is supported by creek rock and gravel. |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 6:19:33 PM EDT
[#6]
We have a few bridges that go over creeks of various width’s. We use I beams and concrete slabs bolted on top of them. For your small creek you could use green treated 6x6’s three of them and then whatever decking you want.
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Posted: 12/8/2018 10:41:16 PM EDT
[#7]
wish to hear about engineering.
I have a 15-20 foot span over a creek I have on a piece of property Need a good and permanent solution. |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 10:48:34 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is a culvert an option? As much as I LOVE bridges (former Combat Construction Specialist/Bridge Crewman) I think I would lean toward a culvert for a little span like that. You might be surprised at how big it needs to be. |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 2:25:23 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wish to hear about engineering. I have a 15-20 foot span over a creek I have on a piece of property Need a good and permanent solution. |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 9:11:42 AM EDT
[#10]
I heard of a guy using a flat-bed semi trailer, wheels removed and set on concrete footings.
Think that would work? |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 9:52:07 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I heard of a guy using a flat-bed semi trailer, wheels removed and set on concrete footings. Think that would work? |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 8:11:13 PM EDT
[#12]
Another believer in the culvert option.
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Posted: 12/9/2018 9:46:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We built 2 at my farm. Drove piling (old steel drill pipe) in the ground on either side. Used 3 old rail road ties for the base. Did cross wise with cheap landscaping ties, topped with some old 1in expanded steel to protect from tracks. Built the embankment up after it was done. Holds up to a 17k lbs dozer so far... I've got a question. It's an honest one because I'm so freaking impressed that you homebuilt a bridge than can hold that dozer. Don't get me wrong. I've driven over a right fair number of homemade bridges, cuz I grew up where people did stuff for themselves. But I wasn't the FIRST one to drive over it, yaknow? How did you decide how to build this, and did you anticipate it being strong enough to hold the dozer, and WHY did you think it would be? Was there math involved? Or did you just go, "Yeah, that oughta hold it." 
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Posted: 12/9/2018 9:54:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Foxtrot08 I've got a question. It's an honest one because I'm so freaking impressed that you homebuilt a bridge than can hold that dozer. Don't get me wrong. I've driven over a right fair number of homemade bridges, cuz I grew up where people did stuff for themselves. But I wasn't the FIRST one to drive over it, yaknow? How did you decide how to build this, and did you anticipate it being strong enough to hold the dozer, and WHY did you think it would be? Was there math involved? Or did you just go, "Yeah, that oughta hold it." Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
We built 2 at my farm. Drove piling (old steel drill pipe) in the ground on either side. Used 3 old rail road ties for the base. Did cross wise with cheap landscaping ties, topped with some old 1in expanded steel to protect from tracks. Built the embankment up after it was done. Holds up to a 17k lbs dozer so far... I've got a question. It's an honest one because I'm so freaking impressed that you homebuilt a bridge than can hold that dozer. Don't get me wrong. I've driven over a right fair number of homemade bridges, cuz I grew up where people did stuff for themselves. But I wasn't the FIRST one to drive over it, yaknow? How did you decide how to build this, and did you anticipate it being strong enough to hold the dozer, and WHY did you think it would be? Was there math involved? Or did you just go, "Yeah, that oughta hold it." We pounded it into the ground with an excavator on both sides to build the embankment up. I've been around enough bridge contractors and bridge jobs in my life to know your weight has to have something firm to rest on. So the steel pipe will do that on either ends. Back filled and compacted with clay. Laid the rail road ties and every else out. Driving our TD7E and 931 over it was kind of my dad's "hold my beer moment". We had no math or anything on how strong the rail road ties were. But, they didn't break. Yet... Worse case, really is the bridge falls in a bit and the dozer walks out of the creek. ... Now it is really, really not engineered, nor would I dare to drive my 315 track hoe over it... |
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Posted: 12/9/2018 11:12:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Driving our TD7E and 931 over it was kind of my dad's "hold my beer moment".  
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Posted: 12/9/2018 11:38:39 PM EDT
[#16]
For a creek that small I would also consider just armoring it with rocks to prevent erosion. If the banks are steep may not be possible, but worth considering.
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Posted: 12/10/2018 12:45:28 AM EDT
[#17]
For 1-2' wide, I'd just drive through it unless the banks are really deep.
When I was a kid, I made two bridges on quad trails that just involved a couple logs across the span, sitting on rocks on each end, and some old oak fence boards I got from a neighbor for free. Cost me nothing, held foot traffic and quads (ATVs), and was a fun project as a kid. Both are gone now. One was about 12-16' long and was over a stream that normally didn't have a ton of flow, but during major rain events it did. It actually has a pretty substantial watershed area. Anyway, water got real high once many years ago, picked it up and washed it away. The other one was over more of an ephemeral ditch that was just very steep and maybe 3' deep or more. That one lasted a very long time, but eventually rotted out. |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 4:49:55 PM EDT
[#18]
Wranglerstar on YT has build a couple nice looking bridges.
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Posted: 12/10/2018 5:03:02 PM EDT
[#19]
This thread needs more pics.
I have several washouts that are so far gone they need cheap, but reliable, bridges. I'm open to culverts too, but just being able to tell the neighbors "yeah I built a bridge on my place" is pretty tempting.
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Posted: 12/10/2018 8:26:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This thread needs more pics. I have several washouts that are so far gone they need cheap, but reliable, bridges. I'm open to culverts too, but just being able to tell the neighbors "yeah I built a bridge on my place" is pretty tempting. |
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Posted: 12/10/2018 9:23:38 PM EDT
[#21]
 Attached FileOld pic of when i first built it, the creek has gotten deeper ( not sure why : guess jus errosion ) |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 11:37:50 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35509/C3BE2A72-74D7-4FA1-8CF4-F5CD136E1CC9_jpeg-768113.JPG Old pic of when i first built it, the creek has gotten deeper ( not sure why : guess jus errosion ) If you want a bridge: I would go the 6x6 pressure treated route. You can span up to 12’ for about $600. Pour a concrete footer on both sides, about 18” x 18”, 6’ wide, 5.5” below grade. Buy 13 6x6 pressure treated posts, place them across the span. Use a 4x6 end-cap, and put a lag bolt into each post end. Backfill to the end caps with #4 gravel. Every year, put some Thompson’s in a pump sprayer and give it a coat. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 11:47:02 AM EDT
[#23]
Seems like a lot of money and effort for that little creek. Personally I'd just drive through it, but if you really need to stay out of it, I'd just make a wider version of what you have there. What you're talking about driving over it with isn't very heavy. You can probably pick up the wood for free somewhere. Set it on stones and you're good to go until it's time to rebuild it someday.
Just my opinion. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 1:46:01 PM EDT
[#24]
any one could drive through it, yes it would be fun. But look how nice it looks now. Lets try to keep the natural look and flow of the water. When you drive through it you create a huge wet hole, then it backs up and then you cant cross it after a year because the ruts are too deep.
Don't worry I know this because that how i made awesome mud holes to lose my ATV in as a kid/adult. we started with a creek that size maybe a another foot across. after 5 years its so deep I couldn't get through it with the tractor, Tacoma lifted with lockers, gears and mud tires. Truly made a hole you can never repair. The bridge is the right answer. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 2:41:23 PM EDT
[#25]
Eh, it becoming a mud hole is dependent on how rocky the ground is and how often you drive through it.
Nothing wrong with a bridge either, I'm just saying I wouldn't sink a bunch of time and resources into it unless you just enjoy the project. |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 2:56:14 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35509/C3BE2A72-74D7-4FA1-8CF4-F5CD136E1CC9_jpeg-768113.JPG Old pic of when i first built it, the creek has gotten deeper ( not sure why : guess jus errosion ) |
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Posted: 12/11/2018 4:56:15 PM EDT
[#27]
None, jus me and usual pile of tools
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Posted: 12/11/2018 10:34:35 PM EDT
[#28]
Another vote for a culvert
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Posted: 12/12/2018 2:17:01 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Eh, it becoming a mud hole is dependent on how rocky the ground is and how often you drive through it. Nothing wrong with a bridge either, I'm just saying I wouldn't sink a bunch of time and resources into it unless you just enjoy the project. |
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Posted: 12/12/2018 2:58:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
None, jus me and usual pile of tools That would be my idea. Lag bolt the outside 4x6's to the 6x6's. |
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Posted: 12/12/2018 4:01:50 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
None, jus me and usual pile of tools |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 1:42:31 AM EDT
[#32]
Culverts would probably mean you have to dig a bit and give the water a straight shot at the pipes.
I recommend pouring concrete on the front lip of the culvert so water can't work its way around the gravel. Still need to watch for erosion and what not but no biggy. With a culvert or any pipe for drainage like that do some reading on nylon rope and rag ball or basket ball or something you pull through pipe to clear blockages. For what you have in the picture, even if deeper, I would do some concrete footers and then 2x6 or 2x8 stringers, play on the net and find a calculator to show you strength for the span you would have with whatever wood and figure out what you require. I have an old boat trailer I am debating junking, and by junking I mean it could turn into something for a project and to me this is one thing it could do with axle removed. |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 10:52:22 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Culverts would probably mean you have to dig a bit and give the water a straight shot at the pipes. I recommend pouring concrete on the front lip of the culvert so water can't work its way around the gravel. Still need to watch for erosion and what not but no biggy. With a culvert or any pipe for drainage like that do some reading on nylon rope and rag ball or basket ball or something you pull through pipe to clear blockages. For what you have in the picture, even if deeper, I would do some concrete footers and then 2x6 or 2x8 stringers, play on the net and find a calculator to show you strength for the span you would have with whatever wood and figure out what you require. I have an old boat trailer I am debating junking, and by junking I mean it could turn into something for a project and to me this is one thing it could do with axle removed. |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 2:40:54 PM EDT
[#34]
Long ago I considered same thing.
That frame is metal. And while it looks impressive, once structure is gone it is flimsy as all get out. Like it might fold in half just getting to where you want it. Not saying you can't make it work, but I sold my place to someone who literally threw away the 80ft single wide I had been living in, took 3 roll off dumpsters to do it, and a buddy used the track hoe to do the work. Frame was flimsy once the box structure was off it. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 1:06:54 PM EDT
[#35]
Just build a rock crossing, it will look more natural and will be there for years.
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Posted: 12/16/2018 10:19:42 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I heard of a guy using a flat-bed semi trailer, wheels removed and set on concrete footings. Think that would work? |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 10:36:13 PM EDT
[#37]
Acquire some old telephone poles, cut to desired length,
Just like what you’ve got , but bigger. |
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Posted: 12/18/2018 8:24:31 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Acquire some old telephone poles, cut to desired length, Just like what you’ve got , but bigger. |
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Posted: 12/18/2018 9:06:53 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just remember, most utilities don't just throw away old poles for no reason. Most of the time, if a pole is replaced, it is because it is old as hell. If you do find a utility rebuilding an entire line, generally, the most sound portion of an old pole is the portion that was about 18" below grade, on down. <————-worked utilites 20 years We also repurpose old fence posts that were replaced, cut bottom rot and you have seasoned 4x4 posts forvwhatever |
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Posted: 12/18/2018 12:11:44 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think you have that backwards, every pole and fence post buried rots at ground level and below. <————-worked utilites 20 years We also repurpose old fence posts that were replaced, cut bottom rot and you have seasoned 4x4 posts forvwhatever That said, every pole inspection/treatment firm that I have ever spoken to has said that below about 18", poles very rarely rot due to the lack of oxygen preventing insects, fungi and other enemies of wood from living there. The portion of the pole that is at groundline to 18" below is generally the hardest hit by the insects and fungi. We don't have a lot of carpenter ant and termite problems in MO, but in areas that do, I understand that from grade to 10' above grade, those insects can create a lot of issues. In MO, the woodpeckers will also play hell with the tops. When our local transmission coop pulls pole butts out of the ground, the portion from 18" below grade to the butt is almost always very solid. Sorry to derail OP. |
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Posted: 12/18/2018 12:18:34 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35509/C3BE2A72-74D7-4FA1-8CF4-F5CD136E1CC9_jpeg-768113.JPG Old pic of when i first built it, the creek has gotten deeper ( not sure why : guess jus errosion ) |
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Posted: 12/20/2018 8:58:10 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This thread needs more pics. . I drive a an old Polaris 4x4 across it and a buddy has driven his 500 across a few times but that is about the max. It flexes quite a bit.
I think I paid $100 for the bare frame and 2 axles at a nearby auction. I pulled it home. I figured I could sell the axles and recover the $100 but they're still sitting there with 30' of frame. I had some oak logs sawn to 1 1/2" thick. I ran two rows vertical in between the cross member webbing the length of the bridge and then screwed the deck boards into them. My problem now is that beavers destroyed and flooded about 40' of approach to the bridge. I've trapped a dozen of them in the last 3 years and I'm not getting ahead. My latest brainstorm is to pull a big log into the approach on the upstream side. Hoping they will use that as their dam and then I can reclaim the approach.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 12/25/2018 8:13:00 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pole characteristics may be somewhat regional, so I limit my advice to the way that treated poles react to weathering in Missouri. Poles are obviously made from different species and treated with different products at the factory. They also may or may not be treated on a cyclical basis while they are in service, so there is certain variations in how a pole will react to its environment. That said, every pole inspection/treatment firm that I have ever spoken to has said that below about 18", poles very rarely rot due to the lack of oxygen preventing insects, fungi and other enemies of wood from living there. The portion of the pole that is at groundline to 18" below is generally the hardest hit by the insects and fungi. We don't have a lot of carpenter ant and termite problems in MO, but in areas that do, I understand that from grade to 10' above grade, those insects can create a lot of issues. In MO, the woodpeckers will also play hell with the tops. When our local transmission coop pulls pole butts out of the ground, the portion from 18" below grade to the butt is almost always very solid. Sorry to derail OP. /icon_smile.gif[/img] |
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Posted: 12/25/2018 8:17:11 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Here's ours. It's 40' long, made from a section of trailer house frame. Biere is spot on about trailer house frames . I drive a an old Polaris 4x4 across it and a buddy has driven his 500 across a few times but that is about the max. It flexes quite a bit.
I think I paid $100 for the bare frame and 2 axles at a nearby auction. I pulled it home. I figured I could sell the axles and recover the $100 but they're still sitting there with 30' of frame. I had some oak logs sawn to 1 1/2" thick. I ran two rows vertical in between the cross member webbing the length of the bridge and then screwed the deck boards into them. My problem now is that beavers destroyed and flooded about 40' of approach to the bridge. I've trapped a dozen of them in the last 3 years and I'm not getting ahead. My latest brainstorm is to pull a big log into the approach on the upstream side. Hoping they will use that as their dam and then I can reclaim the approach. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/21830/IMG_0324_jpg-779346.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/21830/IMG_0325_jpg-779347.JPG I'm asking for my own education, not because I have advice to offer. Is there a way to drive supports into the middle of the span? I mean a reasonable way, available to the average landowner without bringing in an engineer? |
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Posted: 12/25/2018 8:26:20 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 12/25/2018 8:35:57 PM EDT
[#46]
Want one that'll last your lifetime?
Creosoted utility poles with railroad ties bolted to them using all-thread. Spray areas touching dirt with 50/50 mix of ATF/diesel or used oil/diesel once every 5 years or so. or 12" I-beams with railroad ties. |
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Posted: 12/25/2018 8:38:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Swiped this from SxS thread.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35509/D074E926-11FD-4F4A-8FA1-25F1276150D2_jpeg-785440.JPG 
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Posted: 12/26/2018 12:02:11 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That looks like it will be solid til the bank washes out. |
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Posted: 12/26/2018 8:31:34 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there a way to drive supports into the middle of the span? I mean a reasonable way, available to the average landowner without bringing in an engineer? |
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Posted: 12/26/2018 10:28:34 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @dairyfarmer I'm asking for my own education, not because I have advice to offer. Is there a way to drive supports into the middle of the span? I mean a reasonable way, available to the average landowner without bringing in an engineer? |
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