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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:07:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 13Joker]
Putting an old aluminum Jon boat back in the water. It needs a new transom and I have 3/4" plywood on hand.
What box store product does a decent job sealing plywood? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:17:28 PM EDT
[#1]
probably just make sure it is really clean and dry and use something like Power Grab or Liquid Nails. It is going to be hard to bond between the two different materials.
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:19:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Marine Varnish the hell out of it with light multiple coats.
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:23:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: alemonkey]
[#3]
Quote HistoryI didn't build a new transom, but I recently redid the floor in an older boat. From lurking a bunch on boating forums I got a pretty good idea of how to seal stuff. Coating it in marine grade epoxy resin and then fiberglassing the entire thing was recommended by everyone. Also, use Marine plywood. It costs a lot more but it's more resistant to moisture and rot. |
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:33:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fxntime: Marine Varnish the hell out of it with light multiple coats. Minwax Helmsman spar urethane? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:35:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Fiberglass resin.
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:36:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Marine plywood and fiberglass resins is the ONLY answer, don't waste you time with anything else.
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:38:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By waawaaweenie: probably just make sure it is really clean and dry and use something like Power Grab or Liquid Nails. It is going to be hard to bond between the two different materials. 
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:39:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: johnh57]
[#8]
System 3 epoxy makes a penetrating epoxy sealer. Put several coats of that stuff on, then epoxy primer, then paint it with your favorite marine paint.
System 3 epoxy sealer Use the stuff in a really well ventilated area! ETA: you won't find it at the BORG, but it's just a phone call away. |
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Posted: 2/18/2022 6:40:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By 13Joker: Putting an old aluminum Jon boat back in the water. It needs a new transom and I have 3/4" plywood on hand. What box store product does a decent job sealing plywood? Warning: Not a boat dude. Take everything I saw with many grains of salt. I'd think about slow-cure epoxy. The slower, the better, so it has more time to penetrate the wood. Or, I'd do one layer like that, then use some faster-cured stuff to fiberglass the transom. |
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Posted: 2/18/2022 7:05:38 PM EDT
[#10]
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2022 7:08:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History500 BUCKS? The damn boat cost $300 new. 
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2022 7:13:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Cheapest way; Flex Seal regular plywood. Both sides.
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Posted: 2/18/2022 7:16:30 PM EDT
[#13]
West System Epoxy
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IL, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2022 9:46:07 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By deerranger: Marine plywood and fiberglass resins is the ONLY answer, don't waste you time with anything else. If you've got free plywood I'd use it, it'll last a good while just with a coat of paint. |
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Posted: 2/18/2022 9:51:26 PM EDT
[#15]
Epoxy is the only answer. Unless you want to do it again later. And Marine plywood.
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Posted: 2/19/2022 4:52:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Got the old boat pulled out of the weeds and up to my house today.
I was mistaken in thinking the transom was plywood, it is aluminum like the rest of the hull with plywood reinforcement on the inside. Regular plywood sealed with some spar urethane or something should last a long time. |
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Posted: 2/20/2022 9:03:01 PM EDT
[#17]
We use Interlux "Bilgekote" for wood panel sealing at work (marina).
In fact, we are in the process of replacing all of our rental aluminum fishing boat transoms and using standard plywood and several coats of Bilgekote. Ours are mostly exposed but should still last quite a while. |
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Posted: 5/23/2022 11:17:53 AM EDT
[#18]
So i've had the old jon boat out several times and hadn't had any leaks. This past weekend we had out for a 3 day fishing/camping trip and developed leaks from at least 2 rivets under one of the seats. Didn't leak bad enough to ruin our weekend but I didn't want to leave it in the water overnight.
I know I can re-buck the rivets but thought about tig welding the outside of them. So is there any reason why tig welding all of the below water line rivets is a bad idea? |
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Posted: 5/23/2022 1:11:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 13Joker: So i've had the old jon boat out several times and hadn't had any leaks. This past weekend we had out for a 3 day fishing/camping trip and developed leaks from at least 2 rivets under one of the seats. Didn't leak bad enough to ruin our weekend but I didn't want to leave it in the water overnight. I know I can re-buck the rivets but thought about tig welding the outside of them. So is there any reason why tig welding all of the below water line rivets is a bad idea? |
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Posted: 5/23/2022 7:55:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By akcaribouhunter: If you do not want to weld it use Gluvit. I do want to weld them. I was asking if it was a bad idea, for some reason, to weld the rivets. |
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Posted: 5/24/2022 12:01:31 AM EDT
[#21]
I've seen too many welds crack to recommend it. No matter how durable
one thinks they are, I see them everywhere from our rental fleet of pontoon boats to the Sherriff's office air boat hulls and the framework on their center consoles, wake towers etc. The constant flexing is the cause. You know what I haven't seen leak? Our 2008 Mirro Craft riveted 16ft fishing boats. I was skeptical when we got them new and had nightmares of leaky rivet repair by the hundreds but I was mistaken. After 14 years of being in rental service, on their third engine and second transom I sold on properly installed rivets. |
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Posted: 5/24/2022 3:34:13 AM EDT
[#22]
Originally Posted By 13Joker:
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By akcaribouhunter: If you do not want to weld it use Gluvit. I do want to weld them. I was asking if it was a bad idea, for some reason, to weld the rivets.[/quote Have never seen rivets welded here in AK. We have always tightened them up with a hammer and sledge. Or use a bolt and nyloc nut. Then coat with gluvit. We Alaskans are very tough on boats.  |
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Posted: 5/24/2022 8:18:16 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: I've seen too many welds crack to recommend it. No matter how durable one thinks they are, I see them everywhere from our rental fleet of pontoon boats to the Sherriff's office air boat hulls and the framework on their center consoles, wake towers etc. The constant flexing is the cause. You know what I haven't seen leak? Our 2008 Mirro Craft riveted 16ft fishing boats. I was skeptical when we got them new and had nightmares of leaky rivet repair by the hundreds but I was mistaken. After 14 years of being in rental service, on their third engine and second transom I sold on properly installed rivets. Good info, thanks. I've got to do some other repair work that will require tig welding and welding the rivets was an idea of that crossed my mind. Ill re buck them instead and check into gluvit. |
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Posted: 5/24/2022 8:19:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By akcaribouhunter: Originally Posted By 13Joker: I do want to weld them. I was asking if it was a bad idea, for some reason, to weld the rivets.[/quote Have never seen rivets welded here in AK. We have always tightened them up with a hammer and sledge. Or use a bolt and nyloc nut. Then coat with gluvit. We Alaskans are very tough on boats. I bet! |
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Posted: 5/24/2022 9:45:26 AM EDT
[#25]
Gator glide is another good product. If you’re going to weld I would remove the rivet completely weld the hole then weld the seat bench down. But bucking the rivet is easy.
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