User Panel
Posted: 5/24/2022 11:49:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
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[#1]
A set back with slots might be a sensible solution.
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[#2]
How long is your shaft?
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[#3]
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Chicken Farmer by choice hunter of shade tree's and hiding spots by nature.
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[#4]
Looks like it may be time for an extension kit. If you go too much
lower the way it is, the steering cable looks like it will be at an odd angle where it will have to make a sharp "jog" downward to get into the tilt tube. |
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...behind every blade of grass...
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[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
[#5]
Originally Posted By Haveme1: A set back with slots might be a sensible solution. View Quote Any links on what to look at? Originally Posted By bdicki: How long is your shaft? View Quote Motor was a jet before the previous owner put a prop unit on. It is a 2004/05 model. Originally Posted By KB7DX: Looks like it may be time for an extension kit. If you go too much lower the way it is, the steering cable looks like it will be at an odd angle where it will have to make a sharp "jog" downward to get into the tilt tube. View Quote But it will tolerate being lower. |
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[#6]
If you drop it more, you'll seriously limit the ability to tilt up for trailering. The power head and hardware out front crashes into the transom. Don't ask me how I know.
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[#7]
Originally Posted By SHD:
If you drop it more, you'll seriously limit the ability to tilt up for trailering. The power head and hardware out front crashes into the transom. Don't ask me how I know.[/quote It has room even if I drop it as the lift goes up 8-10 in. Almost broke the cover on my zuk 140 that way. Good thing they have the limiter. |
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[#8]
Do jets run higher, or was the jet a 25 inch lower?
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[#9]
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[#10]
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[#11]
Originally Posted By RDTCU: Yamaha offers a 5" foot spacer for some models, that and a 25" shaft would do what you need. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RDTCU: Originally Posted By akcaribouhunter: Jets run higher and some come in 25 in shaft. Yamaha offers a 5" foot spacer for some models, that and a 25" shaft would do what you need. |
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[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
[#12]
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[#13]
Is that some form of screw jack inside the aluminum "jack plate".
If so, why not remove the jack screw and replace with something shorter? A fixed height rod with clevis ends? |
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...behind every blade of grass...
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[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
[#14]
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[#15]
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Political correctness is a devious weapon designed to silence those whose arguments cannot be refuted.
Embracing the "Progressive" American democratic party is akin to volunteering your time to erect the gallows you will one day swing from. |
[#16]
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...behind every blade of grass...
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[#17]
Originally Posted By KB7DX: I guess I don't understand how that jack plate is designed. If you remove the part I have circled wouldn't that allow the motor to be lowered? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/108158/Inked20220525_145734-2397042_LI-2398979.jpg View Quote I cannot drop it lower as the bottom of the jack would hit the mount. Motor ran a lot better. Only sucked air every so often. |
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[#18]
Originally Posted By nowgrn4: https://www.permatrims.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/rich%20b%20yamaha%20f115.jpg https://www.permatrims.com/001_Grey_Permatrim_Hydrofoil_p/001_grey.htm View Quote Has a big fin on the back. |
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[Last Edit: nowgrn4]
[#19]
Can you just drill new holes and remount the jack plate/engine 3" lower?
Edit; A longer Teleflex steering cable for extra clearance cant be more than a buck fiddy. |
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Political correctness is a devious weapon designed to silence those whose arguments cannot be refuted.
Embracing the "Progressive" American democratic party is akin to volunteering your time to erect the gallows you will one day swing from. |
[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
[#21]
Originally Posted By nowgrn4: Can you just drill new holes and remount the jack plate/engine 3" lower? Edit; A longer Teleflex steering cable for extra clearance cant be more than a buck fiddy. View Quote Already has holes higher up from previous mounting. I know they can be welded shut but am trying to avoid that if I can. Welding here is over almost $200 an hour. Originally Posted By KB7DX: What I mean is to remove the electric actuator completely and replacing it with a shorter solid rod with clevis's on each end. Of course it would be "fixed" with no adjustment but it should lower the motor. Sure would be nice to see it in person. ETA - Maybe cut the lower bracket and drill a new hole for the actuator pin? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/108158/mod_jack-2399316.jpg View Quote More pics are incoming. Just remember I am in Rural AK which sucks to get some parts/tools. |
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[Last Edit: akcaribouhunter]
[#22]
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[#24]
Does it steer hard one way when it's on the trailer not running in the water?
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...behind every blade of grass...
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