Didn’t grow up hunting, I’ve come to it later in life thanks to some coworkers who also are getting into it. Just ordered my first bolt gun, a Savage 110 Apex in 6.5 CM with a bore-sighted Vortex Crossfire attached.

Can’t afford any upgrades to it this year, the plan is for a new scope in 2023. What should I do when I get the rifle home? Do I need to go through everything and make sure all the screws are tightened down, or is this something that I shouldn’t worry about since it’s coming from the factory? Also, I’ve seen about 500 different theories on how best to zero it. What actually works best?

Thanks

Welcome to hunting.  Bore sighting will get you close but you still need to sight in.  Purchase three boxes of the same lot ammo at least.  All cartridge's do not shoot to the same point of aim. Sight in at 100. Your choice but 2" high works for most.  You guys have to use unleaded bullets.  Dry fire 20 times a day standing in your shooting position.  Get a sling, preferably nonslip and light.  Take it off when actively hunting.  Go to this link and study Effective Game Killing.  

As for checking scope screws, its not a bad idea if you have the tools.  I personally use 5 min epoxy on the bases and screws. They stay on, don't loosen, no rust under the bases, and I can warm them with a mini torch when I want to remove them.  Epoxy melts at about 170 degrees.

Get the ten essentials and carry them with you.

This^^^^

I would add “practice, Practice, PRACTICE”.  Also, if’n you’re liken it, think about reloading your own ammo.

I leave you with theses words of wisdom……. If you can’t shoot straight, shot often

Thanks, guys. Definitely some good stuff in here I haven’t thought about or come across yet.

Once you settle on your setup….  Shoot it at known distances after getting a good zero on your chosen ammo. Dont go off what the box or an app says. It will haunt your entire existence when you miss/wound a big critter!!

I would tell you to check torque on everything as well. I bought a rifle last year that was nearly $4K when all was said and done. 30 rounds into owning it the action screws were so loose the gun “clunked” when you picked it up or set it down.

Good advice above. What has worked very well for me is to zero at 200 yds and then learn my dope beyond that. Inside 200 hold on target and shoot. Learn your dope and shots out to 350 are pretty easy with practice. As far as practice is concerned, most of mine is at 300 yds. Everything inside that will be cake. Longer shots will rely on form and a solid rest. Just remember to have fun.

Thanks. 6.5 manbun gave me a longer chuckle than I expected. Will only be referring to it as such from now.

Bore sight the rifle from a steady rest. Sight in the rifle at a 25 yard target. Shoot one shot at the target from a benchrest. While holding your original aimpoint at the 25 yard target paper...use the scope turrets to move the scope crosshair to the bullet entrance hole on the target.

If you just have a 100 yard backstop berm...shoot at a small clod of dirt on the berm, while a spotter can tell you were the bullet impacted --- Then move the turrets as first stated; or just increment the turrets by calculation.

Shoot three shot groups for sight in...then adjust, if necessary. Don't let the barrel and receiver get too hot. When shooting a three shot group, do it within an approx. 1 minute time frame from a cold barrel; in order to prevent heat getting to the receiver; which will affect zero.

If the barrel is too hot to touch...it has reached the 180 degree fahrenheit mark --- Which can cause throat scaring just in front of the chamber's bore.

If shooting rapid fire...I would suggest limiting each stint to 6 rounds, then let the big gun cool down; or risk going to the 180 degree mark --- Which can be hot enough to fry an egg on metal.

Barrel break-in? --  Check on YouTube