So I have a roughly 30'x5'x2' flower bed that borders my house.

When we first built it, I bought a load of soil from the local soil place.  
I requested and paid for "garden soil", however, what I ended up with was incredibly high in clay and had little to no organic matter in it.  So I have had significant drainage issues and plants have not done well over the last two years.

Last spring, I went to the local garden store and asked for advice.  The recommended a soil test and then using fertilizer to correct any deficiency.  I did that with the home test kit, took the results back and followed their recommendations.  
Flowers did a little better last year, however, not what I would expect and perennials did not come back again.

This year I removed some of the existing dirt and tilled in 9 cf of moss to help loosen the soil and provide some organic matter.

Dirt is much easier to work with and no longer exhibits drainage issues.

Before I could retest the soil and add appropriate fertilizer to address imbalances, flowers got planted.  They have been in for about a week now.

Last night I tested the soil and found that I have some issues.  Being that I don't want to remove the plants and risk killing them and losing a shit load of money in the process, I am looking for advice.
I realize that the rapitest soil kits are not the most precise, but it's what I had access to.

pH: Fell somewhere between 5.5-6 (With the addition of all of the peat moss, I suspect it will fall more over time)
N: Surplus
P: Depleted
K: Deficient

So I am looking for ideas to bring the pH up some immediately and I will order a better pH test option and monitor it throughout the summer.
Nitrogen seems to not be an issue, unless the excess will cause problems.  My water (outside water is unfiltered) has nitrates in it.  When we bought the house a nitrate filter was installed for internal water, but the external hose bibs are straight feed from the well.  I remember the guy from the testing lab saying that it would actually be a good thing for the plants.  I need to get the Phosphorus and Potassium levels up quickly.  I can continue to monitor and adjust throughout the summer once I get things to an acceptable level.

What is the best way to bring the two up rapidly without harming the plants?

On the bonemeal and wood ash, from what I have read, it needs to be tilled into the soil.  That's not an option without removing the plants

Is that correct?
Will it address the issue quickly, or is it a long term solution?

Did that twice last year
Made no difference

IMO, your ph is fine.  Don't try to bring it up, as more ornamental plants like an acid soil than an alkaline one.  HOWEVER...you have not said what is PLANTED in the flower bed.  That might make a difference, but for flowers, I would almost always choose to fall on the side of slightly acid soil unless I had plants that specifically demanded more neutral soil.  I think you will end up okay if you let the ph play out a little and maybe add some more organic matter in the form of compost.  Nothing wrong with buying a few bags of "compost" from the local big box store.  HOWEVER...I would not go a long way toward changing anything until I got a better soil test.  Just sayin.

If it were mine, I would buy miracle grow, and mix it with the water every time I water the plants.

There is this thing called a hozon.  (Hoe-zone is how I pronounce it, cuz I think Ho-zone is funny.)

Here's a link.  I don't specifically recommend this one. I know nothing about it.  BUT....it's brass, and looks fine.  The thing is a brass siphon, with a rubber hose and a little spring thingy on the end of the hose. They're all the same, but don't buy plastic.

Hozon example

So you set a five gallon bucket (or a one-gallon bucket) by your outside hydrant. You hook the hozon between the hose and the hydrant, and you drop the end in the bucket. In the bucket, you mix water with water-soluble fertilizer.

You start the hose.   Then you water, and you will see that the hozon is sucking up fertilizer to mix in the water in your hose.  And you water with that.

OR..you just use a garden sprinkler and mix fertilizer in it.

If I were you, I'd look for something like Miracle Grow Bloom Builder.  It's high in Phosphorus.  Not so great on the potassium end, but I'd add another fertilizer for that.

Here is an easy get.

Potash

I'm not surprised that the "topsoil" is mostly clay, but you did good adding the peat moss.  Adding organic mulch (NOT with color added) like leaf mulch, or pine bark mulch (finely-shredded, not nuggets), or even cypress mulch, then digging it into the soil will also help as an ongoing amendment.  Keep adding stuff to build organic matter and loosen the soil structure.  You won't be sorry.  Our city has a leaf composting setup. They take the city's leaves each fall, compost them over the winter, then sell them back to the residents as mulch .  It's awesome stuff. Not always weed free cuz it depends on the quality of the labor to keep the piles turned properly to kill the weed seeds, but in a flower bed, that's less of an issue than it would be in a larger installation.

Just saying..add organic matter at every opportunity.

It will help your soil find its best balance, and you can adjust from there.  It's a little weird to be so low in P and K, and I think it would pay you to get a pro soil test done.  BEFORE you start to fertilize.  ETA:  I THINK....your low ph may have come from the addition of peat, but ONCE AGAIN...LOW ph is usually BETTER.  @uafgrad

Do not go for neutral unless you have plants that specifically demand it. Most flowers don't.

But in the short term, wanting to help your flowers along...you need to get some Bloom builder in there.  And a flower bed version of super potash won't hurt you even if your soil test is off.

Okay does that help?

If not, ask questions.

ETA:  IMPORTANT!!!  If you use this hozon method, you MUST remember to not let anybody drink out of that hose.  Not for a long freaking time after you run fert through it, okay?

Just realized I'd recommended something that might hurt somebody.  I think arfcom homesteaders are, as a rule, smarter than the average Joe, but nobody knows everything.,

I would run that hose for a long darn time before I would let my kid drink out of it, or wash my dog with it.  Kay?

That's a strategy for the long run.  Keep doing it.  It's important. But it's not gonna help overnight.

Thanks

So I limed the bed the first week of June and the ph is slowing improving and plants looks great.

Fertilizer options are pretty limited here, but I ended up going with Alaska Morbloom which is a liquid 0-10-10 product as the Nitrogen was strong and I didn't want to run into too much nitrogen.
The nursery suggested a double "dose" to start with with a very heavy watering followed by following the directions on a weekly fertilizing schedule.

I'm going to give it another week and do another soil test to see how things look.

At the end of the year I'll do another soil test and use a slow release fertilizer that I till into the soil so it has time to work through winter and spring.

On a positive note, the flowers look like they are doing well and actually growing.

Slow and steady progress.

Good update. Excellent work.

I will say that I woke up  in the middle of the night and thought, "He's putting a lot of money into amendments based on a really cheap soil test."

This issue is relevant, but you seem to have your act together.  An Extension office type soil test (I'm guessing these ARE available to you) would probably run you only $20 or so.  I could be off base. STuff is more expensive in Alaska.  But still..

Not sure what is available to you in your AO, but would still love to know what you're planting.



AND...hey..

PICS OR BAN!

Okay not really, but would love to see what you have going on up there.