So my 3 y/o weim likes to chase runners (pheasants). Yesterday not 5 min out of the truck she got on one and took off after it- and put up about 40 birds 75 yards away from me.  That was pretty much it for the day.

Normally she'll stop and come if I call for her, birds dont like that much either.

I have an e-collar for her but I've never really used it.  I guess I'm going to have to.  It has a start low and build strength and I know I dont want to 'light em up'. It has tone settings as well.  She isnt a blockhead, I don't think it will take much to get her attention.

What do you want the response to be? Stop right where you are?, Get your ass back here rfn?, something else?

Try and use it along with your whistle; it's right there on your neck, right? One or two sharp blasts...
Whistle and neck buzz at the same time causes the association, and soon you won't need to use the buzz collar very often.

Timing is everything, only use correction when the behavior your trying to change happens, NEVER after.
Break and chase birds out of the truck? Break and run in the street? It's LOUD whistle and neck buzz time.
Start on #1 on the dial and work your way up to a verbal 'yelp' (you'll know) That's your dogs limit.
You'll find this out just by using it on walks and in field use.

Mine knew if they didn't return RIGHT NOW at the sound of the whistle, they were going to get zapped every time.
Used correctly they're a great tool in your toolbox of training.

RIP big girl.
Attached File

Thank you.

Pretty girl!

I haven't actually been using the whistle either.  Usually just a soft whistle from me will do what I want.   Yesterday I screwed up, so we need to work on communication a bit.

Rosie is a real sweetheart, but she's got mad prey drive.

This: https://www.amazon.com/SportDOG-Brand-Gonia-Special-Whistle/dp/B001F0IPM4
and a neck lanyard and you're all set!

Good hunting.

Not sure if it's the right way, but it worked for me.

I started my Brit off with everyday training on the shock collar before she ever hunted. I wanted to make sure she was used to it/ knew what would happen before we got in the field. I didn't want to find out what her reaction would be out there.

We're on her 3rd season, I'm 3 collars in and I'll never buy another. The last one died and I have no need for it anymore. She still wears it when we go hunting, but the thing doesn't work . But she doesn't know that. And she so used to the association with the whistle, the whistle is all I need.

Edit: the first season I had her out I barely hunted myself. Always just worked the dog while my old man or brothers did the shooting. Makes it much easier to focus on the dog and correct when needed rather than worrying about that and getting a shot off.

Tri-Tronics.

That's what I have.  Tri-tonics g3 sport collar and I have 2 collars for it.  I think tri-tonics is owned by Garmin now.

I like training collars that have a  vibrate and electric stimulus over beep and electric stimulus but my field collar/hand unit is the Garmin alpha 100 with the TT15 collar and that does not have vibrate.  My reason behind this is, I sometimes run a beeper locator collar and I've had dogs associate the beeper collar with a warning beep.

How I train/introduce my dogs on an e-collar.  I start at usually a 3 or 4 on stimulus out of 18. I always introduce e-collar with the come command, never any other command YMMV.  We go out on a check cord.  I let the dog do it's thing and I say come.  If no response, they get a beep and a tug on the cord.  I repeat the command and if there is no response they get nicked and a tug on the cord, at this point I real them in and praise once they start moving to me on their own.  I repeat this exercise until they get it down 100% of the time on the check cord and then we move to the same training off the check cord.  Sometimes you have dogs that take huge steps back and have to revisit the check cord method, sometimes you'll get a dog that you'll never need any electricity and the beeper will be the only stimulus they ever need.

As for the amount of juice.  I don't think I've ever gone above 8 out of 18 on a bird dog and not much higher on a bear hound, maybe a 10 or 11.  Just keep in mind, it's a correction, not a punishment.  Watch the dog react to the stimulus, the amount of electricity should be just enough to take his mind out of his narrow field of view, nothing more.  If you're ever angry at your dog, put the e-collar away.