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Posted: 1/21/2023 10:24:26 PM EDT
I had a running thread that got archived because I’m lazy and wasn’t updating it regularly.

We currently have some property in southern Illinois that we refer to as “the farm”. We don’t grow anything there (yet) but the term/name has stuck.

Currently have a 40x60 barn/barndomium that was on the property when we bought it almost 3yrs ago.

My father in law sold his home in southern Michigan late last year and is currently “homeless”……staying in his 28’ camper for the winter outside Orlando Florida. He approached my wife and I shortly after and asked us to find him a place close by our farm that he could stay in when he wasn't in Florida.

  He gave my wife some of her inheritance to use towards funding the house.
We looked in a few towns within 20 miles of our place and never found the “one”. The thought of maintaining one more piece of property never appealed to me…..and that lead us to our current plan.

We’re gonna build a 24x40 barn/barndo for him on our current property. Ultimately it will be my wife’s she shed/barn for her future chickens/goats/mini cows.

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More info to follow…..
Link Posted: 1/21/2023 10:47:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Picture of our property

12.5 acres total

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Crappy box drawn with approx location of new building

Approx 100’ from existing building

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Link Posted: 1/21/2023 11:02:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Utilities

Water
Tapping into existing water line in our current building.
Water company wanted approx $2000 for a new meter by the road….approx 900’ away.

Tapping into existing water should cost approx $300


Electric
A new pole/meter/security light/200 amp disconnect approx 150’ from existing pile is about $1900.
The pole has to be installed no more than 20’ from a gravel drive……current drive will need to be extended approx 150’. Estimating 800-1000 for the stone/fabric.

Septic
We initially thought we’d need to install a system similar to what our current building has. That is approx $6500. When my septic guy came out and looked at the sight and listened to our usage he recommended a different set up.
100 gallon tank with a grinder pump and running 2” pipe to our existing tank….$3200

Other “costs” so far

2” closed cell spray foam on walls/ceiling $7200

1000sq ft of drywall mud/tape/painted…$1700
Drywall hung be me.

Plenty of other things we’ve napkin priced out…..nothing set in stone yet……wife did buy a bathroom vanity!

Total budget is between 60-70,000.
Looks like we will be smack in the middle!
Link Posted: 1/22/2023 12:26:02 AM EDT
[#3]
Subscribed, as someone with a shop to finish out and a separate tin building that's half finished inside.
Link Posted: 1/22/2023 9:57:46 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Subscribed, as someone with a shop to finish out and a separate tin building that's half finished inside.
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Our current place is a mix of metal/wood/T-111 siding, a hodge-podge of stuff.


I priced a 1000 square feet of 1x6 primed Shiplap 16’ long……$4600 delivered…….not in the budget.
Link Posted: 1/22/2023 10:01:42 AM EDT
[#5]
1. Use the foam closures on the bottom of your r-panel to keep spray foam from shooting out and coating the outsides of your building.
2. Window tape the exterior transitions from wall to wall (corner) and from wall to roof (eaves and rakes) with window tape.
3. Have the foam crew make a continuous spray across those edges from the inside.

I live in a barndo.  I did not do any of these and my barndo leaks air.  1 bit my mom on her barn. We used Tyvek wrap on my barndo to keep foam from sticking to panels, and that at least kept the foam inside.

The corners on metal buildings are generally blocked by a post...
Link Posted: 1/22/2023 10:06:20 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
1. Use the foam closures on the bottom of your r-panel to keep spray foam from shooting out and coating the outsides of your building.
2. Window tape the exterior transitions from wall to wall (corner) and from wall to roof (eaves and rakes) with window tape.
3. Have the foam crew make a continuous spray across those edges from the inside.

I live in a barndo.  I did not do any of these and my barndo leaks air.  1 bit my mom on her barn. We used Tyvek wrap on my barndo to keep foam from sticking to panels, and that at least kept the foam inside.

The corners on metal buildings are generally blocked by a post...
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Excellent advice!!
Our builder is doing “bookshelf” girts and perlins. All wood will be flush on interior and exterior of posts.
Link Posted: 1/22/2023 11:54:09 AM EDT
[#7]
We’ve paid our 1/3 deposit and signed our contract for the shell/slab.

Slab work is supposed to start in February sometime.

5.5” slab with wet set post bases.

Plan is to have contractor excavate, set forms, I come in and do under slab plumbing and electric. He will then pour slab and set post anchors.

His time frame from start-finish is approx 3 weeks work time from excavation to finishing the shell. His quote does include a stone base for the slab. When he did a site visit we don’t expect more stone to be needed but IF it is he will pass cost directly to us and spread stone no charge.


Wife picked out the sectional door for the barn. Of course we know who will be doing the install!


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Link Posted: 2/9/2023 1:13:27 PM EDT
[#8]
Small update………
Timeframe for building is pushed back to April…..sigh


They may do the slab before hand. I’m hoping so because than I can get my septic/water/electric/driveway done before the building goes up.
Link Posted: 2/10/2023 12:14:19 PM EDT
[#9]
That's wicked expensive for pine.
Link Posted: 3/8/2023 6:33:01 PM EDT
[#10]
Since nothing is happening on our barn build…….


I got bored and built my 4th bridge last weekend

Still have concrete and decking to do

My goal is to drive the Kubota and our F150 across it.

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Link Posted: 3/8/2023 6:34:50 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
That's wicked expensive for pine.
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Shiplap apparently isn’t a “cheap” finish.
Most likely not doing the whole interior in it.
Link Posted: 3/8/2023 10:19:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 3/8/2023 10:25:31 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 3/8/2023 10:25:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


No, not cheap at all.  

I've seen some attempts to do it more cheaply, with some type of laminated wood (thinner plywood, etc) but I'm not sure it saves much, if anything.  (this is "shiplap look" not actual shiplap....in other words, there is no dado cut to overlap. It's just stacked boards, which is how an awful lot of interior shiplap is done. It's not real shiplap.

I've seen it done with pallet lumber, which would be a pita but can look really cool.  Not sure if I could give up a set of knives on a planer to get it smooth.  

I love using old, used lumber.  The floors in half my house were once an old barn.  Made a lot of mistakes, learned a lot, would do it WAY differently.  But still not sure I'd a-pay the cost of having that planed by a pro. (We did it ourselves.) or b-give up a set of knives for it.  We used a floor sander to take down the unevenness (one of the square ones that will get into the corners.  I would not risk destroying a drum on a rental drum sander.)

ETA:  The floor is not meant to be a jack. Just...using anything except prepped lumber ends up taking time and (sometimes) money of a different sort/direction.

There's not much way around the cost nowadays, even if you have a free source of lumber, unless it's perfect when it gets to you.

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My wife and I are fans of reusing/repurposing stuff.
Like you said…….the time can be the killer.
Link Posted: 3/8/2023 10:36:06 PM EDT
[#15]
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So...you welded that frame?   Will you say what you made it from (I have interest in metal work.  Don't know if I will ever get there due to time, but very interested in what you did and how you measured/anticipated the strength, etc.)
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Yes I did. All welded by me over last weekend.
Stringers-2x6 tube with 3x3 angles welded to them
Cross tubes-3x3

So far with 1400 pounds (2 ATVs)  in the center I have 1/4” deflection.
Working on a cable/turnbuckle system for underneath to “arch”’ the span slightly.

Strength……from seat of the pants experience and my 3 other bridges I have on-site.

I’m mostly building it as a test for myself.

Fab pics

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Link Posted: 3/8/2023 11:44:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 3/9/2023 12:25:41 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



That is RFC.  

(Really. Freaking.  Cool.)

I grew up riding in the truck with my dad, driving over all kinds of crap that held us just fine, but if I looked at it now I would go, "WTF???? NO WAY!"

Yeah...stuff works just fine and has for generations.

Impressed with your attention to detail.  Would love to see your cable system to arch the span.  

ETA:  I have a stoopit "newbie to metalwork" question.

How long would you anticipate your bridge might last (for its required strength) given the rust inside the tubes, etc.  (I mean, as opposed to like..Ibeams or something...it's not like I know what I'm talking about. I just know my trailer tubing rusts inside, so....I'm interested in what people who actually know stuff, would do about stuff. )  This is a serious question, but no math is expected.
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I’ll update the bridge in this thread…..probably done before the barn!!

If it lasts 5-10 years I’ll be happy. There’s a bit of slope so water should run out and not pool. No tubes are fully welded to trap water.
Link Posted: 3/21/2023 8:25:49 PM EDT
[#18]
Working on a reinforcement method to stiffen the span

Couple ideas.

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The last one is a piece of 5/8 rebar in tension under the span.
Link Posted: 3/22/2023 7:58:19 AM EDT
[#19]
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How do you plan to tension the rebar?

Why not wire rope with threaded stud ends or turn-buckles to make it easier to periodically retension or adjust if necessary?

I just don't see an easy ways to get the rebar tensioned consistently without a means of adjustment on it.
Link Posted: 3/22/2023 11:55:50 AM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

How do you plan to tension the rebar?

Why not wire rope with threaded stud ends or turn-buckles to make it easier to periodically retension or adjust if necessary?

I just don't see an easy ways to get the rebar tensioned consistently without a means of adjustment on it.
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Excellent questions.

The rebar being shaped in a “U” with the tube in the center would cause it to be in tension when I flattened the ends of the bar approx 4”. I’d weld a 4x6 piece of flat stock to each end and clamp it flat.
Hope that makes sense


Most likely going to go with the railing idea.
It gives me a railing for safety and creates a truss from the bridge frame at the same time. I’ll install angle iron as the diagonal bracing.
Link Posted: 4/1/2023 8:10:23 AM EDT
[#21]
Fabbing up my railings this morning.


18’ 2x6 tubes for the top

40” 2x5 for the verticals.

Gonna go have biscuits and gravy at the coffee shop and then the welding will commence!


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Link Posted: 5/13/2023 4:38:06 PM EDT
[#22]
Motion going forward on the barn build is slow…….
Talked to contractor last week and he’s supposed to get the forms/stone/grading done this week.
3 of his guys quit…..weather has been wet…..all a bit frustrating.

After forms are up I do underslab work next weekend
Electrical pipes
DWV for bathroom/kitchen/laundry.
If he pours the following week things will move forward
Water/septic trench
150’ gravel driveway
Electric pole/meter/disconnect

These tasks require our builder to do his thing first……fingers crossed!
Link Posted: 5/15/2023 10:40:17 PM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 6/1/2023 7:40:24 AM EDT
[#24]
Bridge is stalled awhile……because barn!!!


Forms are up and under slab work (DWV/electric) I did is done. Builder is supposed to pour next week.




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Link Posted: 6/4/2023 9:41:46 AM EDT
[#26]
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Will be glad to see your new barn!!!

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As will the wife and I!!!

My father in law (who is going to be “living” in the barndo) has left Florida and is now living in his camper on-site.
Kinda nice having someone around when we aren’t there. He’s also bored……much grass mowing and weed trimming lately!
I left our barn unlocked so he can get to the riding mower and other tools. Kinda leery about showing him how to work the tractor.

All our subcontractors are being kept in the loop in regards to timing.

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