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Posted: 6/25/2022 7:11:58 PM EDT
Stihls an Husqvarna are more pricey...any others a decent chainsaw? Craftsmen, max power, etc?
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Stihl, Husqvarna or echo are all good. Get something 45cc to 63cc as a starter saw
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Quoted: Stihls an Husqvarna are more pricey...any others a decent chainsaw? Craftsmen, max power, etc? View Quote |
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My bigger saws are Husqvarna, but I have a little Echo 310 I use for bucking limbs and such. It's been a good little saw.
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What size are you looking for? What are your intentions for it?
A Stihl MS170 16" is $200 brand new. |
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What are you planning on cutting? Firewood or just the occasional large limb in a subdivision? Even for subdivision work, I would recommend at minimum a low end Husky / Stihl / Echo purchased from a servicing dealer (not a big box). If you are cutting firewood, I recommend a higher end model of the same brands, 50cc or larger. Stick with a 16-18” bar unless you are going 55cc+.
I cut firewood a half dozen weekends a year, and help my old man out a few times a year feeding his saw mill, and I can easily justify the several quality saws I own. |
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I'm only a homeowner, with a messy 5 acres of woods to clean up - so limited experience.
My little Stihl MS250 was $300 on sale (few years ago), and is a nice saw. But, I now wish I had spent $600 for the MS261, the smallest Pro-level saw. Stihl Pro saws, are worth the extra - for multiple reasons. Lots of reviews on YT, suggest the MS 261 is a fantastic, small saw. I have a Stihl dealer close to me, so an easy choice. Husqvarna saws also have a great reputation, and if my dealer sold Husqvarna - I'm sure I'd be happy. I would prefer a good dealer, over any particular brand. Edit to add: size of saw depends on your tree sizes and how much you cut. My hardwood trees are mostly a foot and under, so don't really need a bigger saw. But, I still find my MS250 underpowered. Light weight, is nice for limbing. |
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OP....I had a Stihl dealership inside my Ace store for many years. When I retired I stole myself blind with equipment including chainsaws. I finally wore out the little MS170 (took 12 years of HARD cutting) and replaced it with a 180 C EZ start. It works EVERY time I pick it up. It goes with us in the motorhome on trips. It goes in the CanAm around our place. The MS 270 I took when I retired is STILL a beast and starts on the second "burp" EVERY time. The 20" bar let me cut an 80' Oak tree into mush that fell across our drive. I'm 69 and I try and do things the easy way. Stihl helps a LOT. You can by a "plastic" saw for $159 or a REAL saw for $200. Your pick.
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Quoted: I'm only a homeowner, with a messy 5 acres of woods to clean up - so limited experience. My little Stihl MS250 was $300 on sale (few years ago), and is a nice saw. But, I now wish I had spent $600 for the MS261, the smallest Pro-level saw. Stihl Pro saws, are worth the extra - for multiple reasons. Lots of reviews on YT, suggest the MS 261 is a fantastic, small saw. I have a Stihl dealer close to me, so an easy choice. Husqvarna saws also have a great reputation, and if my dealer sold Husqvarna - I'm sure I'd be happy. I would prefer a good dealer, over any particular brand. Edit to add: size of saw depends on your tree sizes and how much you cut. My hardwood trees are mostly a foot and under, so don't really need a bigger saw. But, I still find my MS250 underpowered. Light weight, is nice for limbing. View Quote The 261 is definitely a quality saw. Mine has done well now for over two years. Attached File OP: if you are going to regularly cut firewood size stuff, you need a decent saw. Farm / Ranch level minimum. |
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Although a little bigger than what you probably think you need now, the Echo CS-590 is an excellent saw for the money. You can buy a shorter bar if 20” is too long, and they’ll pull a chain on a 24” bar too if you need the reach. I’ve fell, limbed, and bucked several 80’+ oaks on the property and it chews right through them.
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Don't overlook pawn shops, in my area you can find Stihl's and Huskys at entry level prices. I saw a MS 361 for $300 the other day.
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I’d probably buy a Stihl MS 170 or Echo CS-310. Both can be found for right around $200.
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Quoted: Stihls an Husqvarna are more pricey...any others a decent chainsaw? Craftsmen, max power, etc? View Quote Do you already have cordless tools, like the Milwaukee M18 series? Get an electric chainsaw that uses the same battery. |
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My suggestion would be to save a little and buy the Stihl wood or farm boss. Plenty of power, not too heavy and great machines with an 18" bar.
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Way to start a Sunday, coffee and saw thread
As said above already: Stihl, Echo, and or even Husky (boo), if you shop for saws at big box stores and not a good dealer...well then have fun |
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Quoted: Stihls an Husqvarna are more pricey...any others a decent chainsaw? Craftsmen, max power, etc? View Quote I have two Husqvarnas now and so glad I didn’t cheap out many years ago. Spend the money. You won’t regret it. |
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Quoted: Way to start a Sunday, coffee and saw thread As said above already: Stihl, Echo, and or even Husky (boo), if you shop for saws at big box stores and not a good dealer...well then have fun View Quote Amusingly one of my neighbors fired up a saw right at 8 AM and is still going. OP, keep an eye on who the servicing dealers are. That MAY affect your purchase. I can't turn a corner without running into a Husky dealer, but have to go over the river and through the woods to find a Stihl dealer. Therefore i buy Huskys. A good do most everything saw would be in the 50cc range. The Husky 550 XP Mark II is what I grabbed. I paired it with the 70cc Husky 572XP. The 550 may be in your price range or a bit higher, but the above mention of the Echo CS 590 is a good one. It's slightly clunky for a 60cc saw, but they get rave reviews, and it is super affordable brand new. Cold link due to arf reformatting: https://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-20-in-59-8-cc-Gas-2-Stroke-Cycle-Chainsaw-CS-590-20AA/204221580 $419 from HD. Probably take 10% off that from various discount programs. If I didn't have the Huskys and was to buy one saw for bucking firewood, it would probably be that one with a 20" bar. |
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Quoted: Although a little bigger than what you probably think you need now, the Echo CS-590 is an excellent saw for the money. You can buy a shorter bar if 20” is too long, and they’ll pull a chain on a 24” bar too if you need the reach. I’ve fell, limbed, and bucked several 80’+ oaks on the property and it chews right through them. View Quote Love my 590. I also have a small Poulin, and use each depending on what I’m doing. |
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Got one of those about four years ago for the wife to use in emergencies when I was gone to cut trees off fence our out of the driveway. Amazing saw, does far more than I thought it would and when I’m chipping that’s the saw next to the chipper or riding around clearing trails. Having said that it’s only capable of about four or five cuts on a 8~10” log before it hits its duty cycle. I think he’d be frustrated between duty cycle and how much spare large capacity batteries cost (I use the large but carry a 4AH as backup/just incase) if he’s trying to process firewood. |
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I went with a Stihl MS180C for small yard tasks.
Its worth noting that Stihl uses the same identical black caps for both fuel and bar oil. I like the easy chain tightener. Get some spare chains. Dull chains suck. |
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Since we are on the topic of chainsaws, I've got the Stihl Farm Boss 290. Great saw and just keeps on ticking. My question is about chains. Anyone have suggestions about replacement chains? I'm currently cutting up some hickory trees I had taken down but they are a nightmare to cut. Hickory dulls the chains VERY quickly. Looking for a chain that will keep its edge better than the factory chain...
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im here to learn and dont know much. all i can say is this. dont buy the huskvarna model 435. i own 3 of them and the chains are always loose and flying off no matter what you do. they wont make sideways cuts cause the chain is always too loose sagging falling off. sometimes they freeze as chain becomes too tight at random. they leak chain oil fast and crazy. got em all brand new from lowes.
i think the main problem with them is the design of how the chain is tightened and supposed to be adjusted externally with a wrench which is a mess. anyone here know why the model 435 sucks? ive been told to buy a stihl. thanks to this thread i now know what to look for finally. im no chainsaw guy by any means. ive sawed more trees down with actual gunfire than chainsaws seems like. |
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Quoted: im here to learn and dont know much. all i can say is this. dont buy the huskvarna model 435. i own 3 of them and the chains are always loose and flying off no matter what you do. they wont make sideways cuts cause the chain is always too loose sagging falling off. sometimes they freeze as chain becomes too tight at random. they leak chain oil fast and crazy. got em all brand new from lowes. i think the main problem with them is the design of how the chain is tightened and supposed to be adjusted externally with a wrench which is a mess. anyone here know why the model 435 sucks? ive been told to buy a stihl. thanks to this thread i now know what to look for finally. im no chainsaw guy by any means. ive sawed more trees down with actual gunfire than chainsaws seems like. View Quote I have a 435 that I use for limbing and bucking small trees; mine has run great! Are you sure you don’t have a bent bar? I have never had the chain come off the bar on that saw nor have I had it had the chain randomly loosen up. |
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Quoted: im here to learn and dont know much. all i can say is this. dont buy the huskvarna model 435. i own 3 of them and the chains are always loose and flying off no matter what you do. they wont make sideways cuts cause the chain is always too loose sagging falling off. sometimes they freeze as chain becomes too tight at random. they leak chain oil fast and crazy. got em all brand new from lowes. i think the main problem with them is the design of how the chain is tightened and supposed to be adjusted externally with a wrench which is a mess. anyone here know why the model 435 sucks? ive been told to buy a stihl. thanks to this thread i now know what to look for finally. im no chainsaw guy by any means. ive sawed more trees down with actual gunfire than chainsaws seems like. View Quote I've got a 450 I've beat the hell out of for a decade. Short of fuel, oil, plugs and filters it's been my most reliable small engine I own. Are you buying shit chains? Never replaced them? |
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Quoted: Since we are on the topic of chainsaws, I've got the Stihl Farm Boss 290. Great saw and just keeps on ticking. My question is about chains. Anyone have suggestions about replacement chains? I'm currently cutting up some hickory trees I had taken down but they are a nightmare to cut. Hickory dulls the chains VERY quickly. Looking for a chain that will keep its edge better than the factory chain... View Quote I use Stihl and Oregon since that's what my dealer stocks, I learned how to be a master sharpener and keep chains and bars at the ready. The guy with the chain saw avatar is very knowledgeable in sharp stuff. He posted in here, @ him if you want good advise. |
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When I did trail maintenance, I used a Stihl MS260 and it was an awesome saw. For home use, I picked up an Echo. I think it might be the CS-310 mentioned earlier. It's been a great, reliable saw.
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Quoted: im here to learn and dont know much. all i can say is this. dont buy the huskvarna model 435. i own 3 of them and the chains are always loose and flying off no matter what you do. they wont make sideways cuts cause the chain is always too loose sagging falling off. sometimes they freeze as chain becomes too tight at random. they leak chain oil fast and crazy. got em all brand new from lowes. i think the main problem with them is the design of how the chain is tightened and supposed to be adjusted externally with a wrench which is a mess. anyone here know why the model 435 sucks? ive been told to buy a stihl. thanks to this thread i now know what to look for finally. im no chainsaw guy by any means. ive sawed more trees down with actual gunfire than chainsaws seems like. View Quote No offense, but I think you're doing something wrong. Start up a troubleshooting thread with pics/examples, I wouldn't be surprised if you could get them fixed up. The chain tensioner does look a little light on that model with only a single stuf, but the manual reads as a straightforward normal tensioning process. It is possible your chains have stretched due to misuse or heating up. Check with Oregon to look at replacement chains. Also, make sure the bar is cleaned out and the sprocket moves freely--a putty knife or dental pick is good there. |
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While not really an entry level saw, my Stihl MS-201 TC-M is the one that I have used the most. It’s lightweight, has plenty of power, and is perfect if you are climbing in a tree. It rode for a few years on my Kubota RTV and in the toolbox of my old truck.
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As well as buying a good quality and appropriately-sized saw, you will need a good way to sharpen it.
Keep a spare bar and chains on hand, but frequently sharpen the ones you use. At least every other time I cut a couple hours, I need to sharpen. The lower on the tree you cut, the more embedded dirt you'll hit. Even being careful, my chains dull quickly - and the bar gets hot. Last time I cut, the chain started cutting crooked; one side of the chain was dull. Must have nicked something hard. I have found the 2-in-one sharpeners, to be super fast and easy. You need to file both teeth and rakers, and a 2-in-one does both at the same time. |
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Quoted: im here to learn and dont know much. all i can say is this. dont buy the huskvarna model 435. i own 3 of them and the chains are always loose and flying off no matter what you do. they wont make sideways cuts cause the chain is always too loose sagging falling off. sometimes they freeze as chain becomes too tight at random. they leak chain oil fast and crazy. got em all brand new from lowes. i think the main problem with them is the design of how the chain is tightened and supposed to be adjusted externally with a wrench which is a mess. anyone here know why the model 435 sucks? ive been told to buy a stihl. thanks to this thread i now know what to look for finally. im no chainsaw guy by any means. ive sawed more trees down with actual gunfire than chainsaws seems like. View Quote I own a Husky 465 and never had a problem with the chain. OP, get a name brand from a dealer with a good service department and stay safe. When you need a good saw, you’ll thank us. |
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I've owned my Stihl MS180 and MS260 for 15 years now and have had zero issues with either. But since you're looking for a cheaper option I would never hesitate to buy an Echo product.
There's been a recent uptick in a Chinese brand of saw who use expired Stihl and Husky saw patents that get good reviews, and cost roughly 1/3 the price. Holzfforma I think is the brand. I've been debating their Stihl 200T clone for shits and grins, although I have no real use for one. |
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As a guy who uses a lot of saws in his business on a daily basis and has seen probably a dozen worn out in the last twenty years I feel confident the only saw you would likely ever actually need if you aren’t a logger is a Stihl MS250. I prefer the 260, but not enough to justify the upspend for most folks.
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Stihl for the win try something in the 200 series the bigger you go the better they are made. Had terrible luck with Husky couldn't get 3 to run doing everything right kept being unrepairable and kept getting replaced finally got a refund bought a stihl and still running.
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Quoted: Since we are on the topic of chainsaws, I've got the Stihl Farm Boss 290. Great saw and just keeps on ticking. My question is about chains. Anyone have suggestions about replacement chains? I'm currently cutting up some hickory trees I had taken down but they are a nightmare to cut. Hickory dulls the chains VERY quickly. Looking for a chain that will keep its edge better than the factory chain... View Quote You likely have the "green" semi chisel chain. I switched to Stihl "yellow" full chisel. What a world of difference it makes. It is also easier to sharpen. Green is anti-kickback. Yellow is "professional use only". Good luck. |
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I have an old Poulan 18" in my shed that I had sitting for several years. I dug it out last weekend, dumped out the old gas, put some fresh stuff in and surprisingly, it started up and cut a couple logs without any problem. Maybe I got lucky. I don't use a chainsaw very often to I'm happy with what I have I guess. If was going to do it again, probably a Shilh.
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I have an old 16" Homelite, that stills runs great. One of the reasons I got the new Stihl MS250: it has a chain brake safety. The old Homelite, doesn't. The Stihl is also easier to service, e.g. tighten the chain, add fuel & oil, etc.
I have learned the hard way, that 2 saws are better than one. Even being careful, several times I got a saw bar trapped - and cut it free with the second saw. Not an excuse, but the dynamic physics of cutting trees - is complex. That's also why I always wear a helmet with face screen. |
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Quoted: I have an old 16" Homelite, that stills runs great. One of the reasons I got the new Stihl MS250: it has a chain brake safety. The old Homelite, doesn't. The Stihl is also easier to service, e.g. tighten the chain, add fuel & oil, etc. I have learned the hard way, that 2 saws are better than one. Even being careful, several times I got a saw bar trapped - and cut it free with the second saw. Not an excuse, but the dynamic physics of cutting trees - is complex. That's also why I always wear a helmet with face screen. View Quote Not to take away from the two is one and one is none moto, but go ahead and buy an extra bar and chain so you can remove the stuck bar and chain from the saw, attach the extra bar and chain, and free up the stuck bar/chain. |
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I am not a seasoned logger by any stretch of the imagination but I always use a plastic wedge to unstick a a pinched bar. Drive the wedge in to spread the log/tree and free your bar.
There is some inherent danger when bucking a log when 80% of it is cut and a wedge is spreading it. Wedges can fall, contact the chain, and fly into your face. Wear PPE. |
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Quoted: I am not a seasoned logger by any stretch of the imagination but I always use a plastic wedge to unstick a a pinched bar. Drive the wedge in to spread the log/tree and free your bar. There is some inherent danger when bucking a log when 80% of it is cut and a wedge is spreading it. Wedges can fall, contact the chain, and fly into your face. Wear PPE. View Quote Key is to get your wedge in before the tree rocks back on your bar. I never cut by myself, and anyone I’m cutting with will have brought a saw. My dad got a call from his neighbor asking for help falling a tree. When he arrived, there was no mystery which tree they wanted down. It was the one with two saws stuck in it. |
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Quoted: I have an old 16" Homelite, that stills runs great. One of the reasons I got the new Stihl MS250: it has a chain brake safety. The old Homelite, doesn't. The Stihl is also easier to service, e.g. tighten the chain, add fuel & oil, etc. I have learned the hard way, that 2 saws are better than one. Even being careful, several times I got a saw bar trapped - and cut it free with the second saw. Not an excuse, but the dynamic physics of cutting trees - is complex. That's also why I always wear a helmet with face screen. View Quote Get the book “To fell a tree” by Jepson, bet you never stick a saw again. When a saw gets stuck it’s because the operator doesn’t understand what’s going on, not because there is a mystical saw sticking force. |
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I have four chainsaws, A Poulan 20" Wild Thing, Sthil 14", Craftsman 18" corded electric, and Harbor Freight corded electric pole saw.
First thing you should probably know, you can buy about every part you can think of for a gas chainsaw on Amazon. My Wild Thing though its been a fantastic little saw for home use, I have to put a repair kit in it pretty often, ever 2-3 years. That's mostly replacing the fuel lines, plastic charging bulb, and filter. That said its a beast and looking at kits it sure looks like a Poulan gas and Craftsman are the same animal. My little Sthil is light easy to use and I haven't found about anything I can't cut with it. Though odd how they start, it starts way easier than Wild Thing. By far, the easiest and what I use the most is the corded electrics. Though absolutely not a good choice for cutting a tree down, the chain just doesn't move as fast, they do fantastic for fallen limbs or annual tree trimming which for me is 90% of what I need a saw for. They require almost no maintenance. Its just ads some chain oil, plug in, and flip it on. In my opinion, I wouldn't put too much emphasis on blades and chains other than to know you will be changing those out eventually even if you sharpen regularly. In this, the size of the motor is pretty important because you can always put a smaller blade on a bigger motor but maybe somewhat limited the other way around. How easy it starts is a big deal and in this brand is indeed important. Sthil for the win. Weight is too because the heavier a saw is the faster you poop out. Now you know why I have four. Its a good thing like all things to buy what works best for the majority of the jobs. Keeping in mind, I'm not a lumberjack, I'm a big fan of premixed fuels. The mixtures are way more homogeneous it cuts way down on gummed lines and carbs which is way better for those of us with infrequent use. Here too is where Sthil comes in for the win. They are designed to back flow the carb and leave fuel in the tank longer. Last but not least is how well or how long these saws last depends a lot on you skill level which is a learned trait. Handle them right, they last one very long time without replacing something. Don't, and its put a new this or do that every day. You watch the guys who use these things every day and man do they know what they are doing. Like shooting a gun, they keep their skill level fine tuned. Most of us however are somewhere between brand new to it and their level. Eventually you will need to put a repair kit/maintenance kit in all these saws but it is pretty simple stuff. Just me, for home use, I think its kind of hard to really go wrong depending on which brand. Just my experience, its not quite a buy it once and forget it thing like many suggest so it will come down to your application and valuing you initial cash outlay. So far, I haven't regretted a one of mine. I'm sort of fond of the Sthil because its my smallest, lightest, and starts so damn easy. Tj |
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