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Posted: 6/19/2021 11:43:57 AM EDT
I know a lot of people build or buy faraday cages/bags for some smaller electronics. I have a couple radios, couple lights with rechargeable batteries and smaller solar charger in one. I’m wondering who sets aside a slightly larger charging system(2 100w solar panels and related equipment), or more equipment vs just the few items? Would these faraday cages/bags survive a carrington event?

Thx
Link Posted: 6/19/2021 6:12:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 6/20/2021 4:46:35 AM EDT
[#2]
Solar panels in storage would probably be fine without a cage to protect them.

A friend of mine who is a electrical engineer told me that most things that are not attached to something that will act like an antenna would be fine.

The Soviet Union defense against EMP was to shut things off and unplug them.

You could store all the stuff in a shipping container to be on the safe side.

I store spare HAM radios in metal ammo cans.
Link Posted: 6/20/2021 3:11:11 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the replies. That’s the info I was looking for. I’m using a survivtek bag now for nods and a few small items. It’s obviously harder with larger items. I may get a few more ammo cans, and xl cans.
Link Posted: 6/20/2021 8:42:30 PM EDT
[#4]
EMP is a highly debatable and controversial subject. Your device survivability will greatly depend on pulse intensity, rise time, location, orientation, external connections etc.
A Faraday Cage is rated by it's attenuation to a defined range of RF frequencies. I would advice to use a Faraday Cage with at least 50 db.  of attenuation for guaranteed protection at high intensity levels. From what I've learned, measurements are done in the 300 to 700 Mhz range for checking EMP shielding.
A steel ammo can offers very little attenuation because of the gap between the case and the lid. Same with a metal trash can with a metal lid. The gaps in the lid will act as a slot antenna thus allowing a lot of RF to get inside.
You should use an aluminum duct tape to continuously seal all the gaps.
For ammo cans, use a sheet of aluminum foil, slightly larger than the can opening. Lay it over the opening and then close the lid on top of it. This will greatly boost RF attenuation to nearly acceptable levels.
Metal buildings offer very little attenuation, especially if there are doors, windows, large gaps.
Grounding a Faraday Cage does almost nothing to it's protection ratings. Actually, long grounding conductors may only make things worse.
You can purchase conductive cloth and make bags or vehicle covers from it. It's not cheap but it works. For a vehicle cover, the fabric skirt must be on the ground for at least a foot, along the perimeter of the vehicle. Same with motorcycles, generators, solar panels (not installed) etc. If installed above ground, it must have a metal pan under it and the fabric must me touching the pan continuously along the perimeter.
Link Posted: 6/21/2021 1:26:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
EMP is a highly debatable and controversial subject. Your device survivability will greatly depend on pulse intensity, rise time, location, orientation, external connections etc.
A Faraday Cage is rated by it's attenuation to a defined range of RF frequencies. I would advice to use a Faraday Cage with at least 50 db.  of attenuation for guaranteed protection at high intensity levels. From what I've learned, measurements are done in the 300 to 700 Mhz range for checking EMP shielding.
A steel ammo can offers very little attenuation because of the gap between the case and the lid. Same with a metal trash can with a metal lid. The gaps in the lid will act as a slot antenna thus allowing a lot of RF to get inside.
You should use an aluminum duct tape to continuously seal all the gaps.
For ammo cans, use a sheet of aluminum foil, slightly larger than the can opening. Lay it over the opening and then close the lid on top of it. This will greatly boost RF attenuation to nearly acceptable levels.
Metal buildings offer very little attenuation, especially if there are doors, windows, large gaps.
Grounding a Faraday Cage does almost nothing to it's protection ratings. Actually, long grounding conductors may only make things worse.
You can purchase conductive cloth and make bags or vehicle covers from it. It's not cheap but it works. For a vehicle cover, the fabric skirt must be on the ground for at least a foot, along the perimeter of the vehicle. Same with motorcycles, generators, solar panels (not installed) etc. If installed above ground, it must have a metal pan under it and the fabric must me touching the pan continuously along the perimeter.
View Quote


I thought about wrapping the seal in aluminum foil but this sounds easier. Would removing the paint from the lip be required?
Link Posted: 6/21/2021 9:34:08 AM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 6/21/2021 8:27:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I thought about wrapping the seal in aluminum foil but this sounds easier. Would removing the paint from the lip be required?
View Quote


I assume you are talking about ammo cans. Removing paint will make it even more effective. If you do, put a thin coat of NoOx, aluminum based Anti-Seize or JetLube grease on the metal edges where paint was removed. Silicone grease or even regular bearing grease (marine grease works better) can be used instead. Put the shiny side of aluminum foil towards the metal. Some brands of foil come with a thin coat of teflon or something similar on one side (to keep food from sticking to it).
Link Posted: 6/23/2021 10:29:07 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
EMP is a highly debatable and controversial subject. Your device survivability will greatly depend on pulse intensity, rise time, location, orientation, external connections etc.
A Faraday Cage is rated by it's attenuation to a defined range of RF frequencies. I would advice to use a Faraday Cage with at least 50 db.  of attenuation for guaranteed protection at high intensity levels. From what I've learned, measurements are done in the 300 to 700 Mhz range for checking EMP shielding.
A steel ammo can offers very little attenuation because of the gap between the case and the lid. Same with a metal trash can with a metal lid. The gaps in the lid will act as a slot antenna thus allowing a lot of RF to get inside.
You should use an aluminum duct tape to continuously seal all the gaps.
For ammo cans, use a sheet of aluminum foil, slightly larger than the can opening. Lay it over the opening and then close the lid on top of it. This will greatly boost RF attenuation to nearly acceptable levels.
Metal buildings offer very little attenuation, especially if there are doors, windows, large gaps.
Grounding a Faraday Cage does almost nothing to it's protection ratings. Actually, long grounding conductors may only make things worse.
You can purchase conductive cloth and make bags or vehicle covers from it. It's not cheap but it works. For a vehicle cover, the fabric skirt must be on the ground for at least a foot, along the perimeter of the vehicle. Same with motorcycles, generators, solar panels (not installed) etc. If installed above ground, it must have a metal pan under it and the fabric must me touching the pan continuously along the perimeter.
View Quote


"EMP is a highly debatable and controversial subject." Oh yes it is! It's hard to have the data on it since most test on EMP are over 60 years old.
Link Posted: 6/23/2021 7:39:38 PM EDT
[#9]
I found this report to be pretty useful. They go in to a lot of technical detail about the nature of EMP, both natural and man-made, and have some defined levels of "protection" with some detailed suggestions on how to achieve those levels. The first two levels are well within the average person's budget. At level 4, you're in Uncle Sugar's land.

https://www.cisa.gov/sites/default/files/publications/19_0307_CISA_EMP-Protection-Resilience-Guidelines.pdf
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