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Posted: 4/3/2016 6:46:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: splunkinoob]
Striper season is quickly approaching, wanting to throw some 3-4 oz weights. Mostly concerned about castability for distance, my 20# mono isn't cutting it. Same setup will probably be used for cats. Gear - Penn 7' MH - Penn Battle II 4000 series.
Thinking Sufex 832 20# with a fluorocarbon leader. Open to suggestions. |
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[#1]
Throw on 50lbs Power Pro and call it done.
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[#2]
I switched to braid last year. I don't use anything close to as heavy as you are, but this is what I know......casting distance is way better, durability and strength is off the charts compared to mono, you'll have to learn some new knots and you'll need something new/different to cut it.
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You look like the most normal person on the planet, or a serial killer. I can't decide. Either way, rock on.- Dan_Gray
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[#3]
I like braid a lot. Like that dude up there said. PowerPro is a very good braid. I think I'm going to try the Berkley professional braid next time. It's round instead of flat like most braids.
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[#4]
I used braided line when it 1st came out 20 something years ago. I fished tournaments for largemouth bass in heavy weeds. For me this is what I thought of it.
Casts great. Regular knots slip. If you get a loop in it, it stays.to limp to untie. Get a backlash you had to cut it off the reel. Had to have good scissors to cut it. Needed to use a more limber rod otherwise you would tear the hooks right out of the fish. I snapped a couple rods when I set the hook to hard. No stretch - pro & con. Very expensive compared to mono. I went back to 20lb Big Game line |
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[#5]
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[#6]
Braided line is great, unless you're fishing around rocks(they can slice it lIke butter). I would do some research on knots, braided line with heavy weights, some knots don't do very well with braid.
Power Pro, Gamma and Seaguar all make good braid. |
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[#7]
Berkley fire line is my favorite second would be powerpro. Tuff stuff . The Berkley does tend to cast better and have less memory.
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[#8]
I've recently tried a little braid as well. I am still trying to learn decent knots as I lost a few fish to knots slipping. I mainly want it for river fishing so I can cast a small jig farther but have the strength for bigger fish. Still a learning curve for me.
What knots are good to use?? |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By mclark202:
I've recently tried a little braid as well. I am still trying to learn decent knots as I lost a few fish to knots slipping. I mainly want it for river fishing so I can cast a small jig farther but have the strength for bigger fish. Still a learning curve for me. What knots are good to use?? View Quote Improved clinch is what is use. I've had no slipping issues with it so far. Went all braid (except leader/shock leaders) for about 8 years now. |
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[#10]
Originally Posted By mclark202:
I've recently tried a little braid as well. I am still trying to learn decent knots as I lost a few fish to knots slipping. I mainly want it for river fishing so I can cast a small jig farther but have the strength for bigger fish. Still a learning curve for me. What knots are good to use?? View Quote San Diego Jam knot I'd you're connecting a fluorocarbon leader an Alberto Knot works extremely well. Some braided line is coated and that makes it slick. You can't take the braid and pinch it with your thumb and index finger and scrap the coating with your fingernail. This breaks up the coating and helps reduce knot slippage. |
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[#11]
Originally Posted By maddmatt: Improved clinch is what is use. I've had no slipping issues with it so far. Went all braid (except leader/shock leaders) for about 8 years now. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By maddmatt: Originally Posted By mclark202: I've recently tried a little braid as well. I am still trying to learn decent knots as I lost a few fish to knots slipping. I mainly want it for river fishing so I can cast a small jig farther but have the strength for bigger fish. Still a learning curve for me. What knots are good to use?? Improved clinch is what is use. I've had no slipping issues with it so far. Went all braid (except leader/shock leaders) for about 8 years now. |
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“Don’t act like you’re not impressed.”
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To the everlasting glory of the Infantry!
NC, USA
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[#12]
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RESIST
"The cold, unforgiving fist of reality craters the gut of another incompetent loon."- mhoffman |
[#13]
While none of the posters above are wrong, I think that if you want to use Suffix 832 (better than PP IMO), I would step up to at the very least 30lb. FWIW, I throw 3-4oz weights in the surf and stick with 30lb.
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[#14]
I tried Berkley fire line and threw that shit away. My bait caster hated that stuf. Tried spider wire and have had great luck. I think I'm using 15 lb test that is 5 lb diameter.
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“Heaven goes by favor. If it went by merit, you would stay out and your dog would go in.”
Mark Twain |
[#15]
I guide muskie and have used almost every major braid. Sufix 832 is hands down king. For striper id go with 65-80 but depends on your striper. We get into some 40+lb striper and when they hit engine trolling 5+mph it's quite a shock to the line. After Sufix the HiSeas has been pretty nice for me. PowerPro only if you want random breakoffs
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[#16]
Spider wire invisibraid. It's da bomb! I like power pro but I have got less wind knots and it casts better.
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[#17]
Originally Posted By GZ1:
Spider wire invisibraid. It's da bomb! I like power pro but I have got less wind knots and it casts better. View Quote I will say this, that stuff casts. I'm a field tester for pure fishing as well and was recently sent some new 80lb braid to try. Verdicts still out on long term durability but it casts as good as Sufix on a Shimano Tranx/9' Legend Tournament setup. I still trust my Sufix completely but this stuff is looking good so far. |
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[#18]
I tried braid and all it did is rat's nest on me. I never had any issues with mono.
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Trail Coordinator
http://www.floridatrail.org |
[#19]
Originally Posted By GTN:
I used braided line when it 1st came out 20 something years ago. I fished tournaments for largemouth bass in heavy weeds. For me this is what I thought of it. Casts great. Regular knots slip. If you get a loop in it, it stays.to limp to untie. Get a backlash you had to cut it off the reel. Had to have good scissors to cut it. Needed to use a more limber rod otherwise you would tear the hooks right out of the fish. I snapped a couple rods when I set the hook to hard. No stretch - pro & con. Very expensive compared to mono. I went back to 20lb Big Game line View Quote These are the reasons I went back to mono for bait-casting. Though I do have some braided on a spinning reel. |
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It's like putting on crampons and walking through a room full of puppies.
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[#20]
I use Jerry Brown braid 30lb, 1200 yard spool fills up my reels.
Surf/Carp/Bass stuffs. |
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[#21]
Originally Posted By FredMan:
These are the reasons I went back to mono for bait-casting. Though I do have some braided on a spinning reel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By FredMan:
Originally Posted By GTN:
I used braided line when it 1st came out 20 something years ago. I fished tournaments for largemouth bass in heavy weeds. For me this is what I thought of it. Casts great. Regular knots slip. If you get a loop in it, it stays.to limp to untie. Get a backlash you had to cut it off the reel. Had to have good scissors to cut it. Needed to use a more limber rod otherwise you would tear the hooks right out of the fish. I snapped a couple rods when I set the hook to hard. No stretch - pro & con. Very expensive compared to mono. I went back to 20lb Big Game line These are the reasons I went back to mono for bait-casting. Though I do have some braided on a spinning reel. I have heard the 'if you backlash it, you have to cut it off' thing before...although I agree, it's a lot easier to get mono out of an over run, it can be done with braid...it just takes a bit more patience. I had a particularly nasty one the other weekend....my bait hit a tree limb almost immediately after casting...it was probably one of the worst over runs I've ever seen. Took me about 15 minutes, but I got it out. Just keep pulling on stuff until you get it to turn and pull out. Eventually you get on a roll and boom, done. Power pro is too expensive for me to just cut it off the spool. |
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[#22]
I'm a braid noob combined with a baitcaster noob. I'm getting pretty decent with the reel and technique, but have had a zillion birdnests, lol. I have been able to get them all out though.
I bought my braid after losing fish-after-fish and bait-after-bait in the family farm pond, which has tons of grass at the moment. Since going to braid I haven't lost a single bait. Wish I would've switched ages ago. |
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[#23]
Originally Posted By KingAirDriver:
I'm a braid noob combined with a baitcaster noob. I'm getting pretty decent with the reel and technique, but have had a zillion birdnests, lol. I have been able to get them all out though. I bought my braid after losing fish-after-fish and bait-after-bait in the family farm pond, which has tons of grass at the moment. Since going to braid I haven't lost a single bait. Wish I would've switched ages ago. View Quote Have you properly adjusted your reel? You shouldn't have that many over runs. Sounds like you don't have your spool tension or brakes set properly. They should be set so that the bait falls slowly to the water when the spool is released with the rod at a 45º angle to vertical. Meaning, if you hold your rod up at about 45º and hit the button to release the spool, don't touch the spool, it should fall slowly to the water and the spool should not over run at all. Start there, and once you start getting the hang of it, start slowly loosening the spool tension and brake over time. The only time I really had a problem is when the spool tension got bumped or I hit a tree with the lure. |
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[Last Edit: KingAirDriver]
[#24]
Originally Posted By eclark53520: Have you properly adjusted your reel? You shouldn't have that many over runs. Sounds like you don't have your spool tension or brakes set properly. They should be set so that the bait falls slowly to the water when the spool is released with the rod at a 45º angle to vertical. Meaning, if you hold your rod up at about 45º and hit the button to release the spool, don't touch the spool, it should fall slowly to the water and the spool should not over run at all. Start there, and once you start getting the hang of it, start slowly loosening the spool tension and brake over time. The only time I really had a problem is when the spool tension got bumped or I hit a tree with the lure. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By eclark53520: Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: I'm a braid noob combined with a baitcaster noob. I'm getting pretty decent with the reel and technique, but have had a zillion birdnests, lol. I have been able to get them all out though. I bought my braid after losing fish-after-fish and bait-after-bait in the family farm pond, which has tons of grass at the moment. Since going to braid I haven't lost a single bait. Wish I would've switched ages ago. Have you properly adjusted your reel? You shouldn't have that many over runs. Sounds like you don't have your spool tension or brakes set properly. They should be set so that the bait falls slowly to the water when the spool is released with the rod at a 45º angle to vertical. Meaning, if you hold your rod up at about 45º and hit the button to release the spool, don't touch the spool, it should fall slowly to the water and the spool should not over run at all. Start there, and once you start getting the hang of it, start slowly loosening the spool tension and brake over time. The only time I really had a problem is when the spool tension got bumped or I hit a tree with the lure. ETA: I should also have said that I'm sure my casting strength/style varies a lot since I fish from a kayak. Hard to keep it consistent, and I've always read putting any excess "umpf" into it can cause backlash. |
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[#25]
Originally Posted By KingAirDriver:
Yeah, I did that when I first bought it, but should probably check it again. It's not a fancy rod/reel by any means, just a $50-60 Shakespeare I got at Academy to learn on. ETA: I should also have said that I'm sure my casting strength/style varies a lot since I fish from a kayak. Hard to keep it consistent, and I've always read putting any excess "umpf" into it can cause backlash. View Quote That's true, I've never attempted to fish a bait caster from a yak...I bet that can be a challenge. |
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[#26]
Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: Yeah, I did that when I first bought it, but should probably check it again. It's not a fancy rod/reel by any means, just a $50-60 Shakespeare I got at Academy to learn on. ETA: I should also have said that I'm sure my casting strength/style varies a lot since I fish from a kayak. Hard to keep it consistent, and I've always read putting any excess "umpf" into it can cause backlash. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: Originally Posted By eclark53520: Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: I'm a braid noob combined with a baitcaster noob. I'm getting pretty decent with the reel and technique, but have had a zillion birdnests, lol. I have been able to get them all out though. I bought my braid after losing fish-after-fish and bait-after-bait in the family farm pond, which has tons of grass at the moment. Since going to braid I haven't lost a single bait. Wish I would've switched ages ago. Have you properly adjusted your reel? You shouldn't have that many over runs. Sounds like you don't have your spool tension or brakes set properly. They should be set so that the bait falls slowly to the water when the spool is released with the rod at a 45º angle to vertical. Meaning, if you hold your rod up at about 45º and hit the button to release the spool, don't touch the spool, it should fall slowly to the water and the spool should not over run at all. Start there, and once you start getting the hang of it, start slowly loosening the spool tension and brake over time. The only time I really had a problem is when the spool tension got bumped or I hit a tree with the lure. ETA: I should also have said that I'm sure my casting strength/style varies a lot since I fish from a kayak. Hard to keep it consistent, and I've always read putting any excess "umpf" into it can cause backlash. You should be adjusting the reel every time you tie on something new. As for casting from a yak, you don't need to boom the cast as you're literally on top of the fish. Most of my casts are probably 10 yards max when I'm out. You'll get the hang of it |
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[Last Edit: KingAirDriver]
[#27]
Originally Posted By mercinarysniper: You should be adjusting the reel every time you tie on something new. As for casting from a yak, you don't need to boom the cast as you're literally on top of the fish. Most of my casts are probably 10 yards max when I'm out. You'll get the hang of it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mercinarysniper: Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: Originally Posted By eclark53520: Originally Posted By KingAirDriver: I'm a braid noob combined with a baitcaster noob. I'm getting pretty decent with the reel and technique, but have had a zillion birdnests, lol. I have been able to get them all out though. I bought my braid after losing fish-after-fish and bait-after-bait in the family farm pond, which has tons of grass at the moment. Since going to braid I haven't lost a single bait. Wish I would've switched ages ago. Have you properly adjusted your reel? You shouldn't have that many over runs. Sounds like you don't have your spool tension or brakes set properly. They should be set so that the bait falls slowly to the water when the spool is released with the rod at a 45º angle to vertical. Meaning, if you hold your rod up at about 45º and hit the button to release the spool, don't touch the spool, it should fall slowly to the water and the spool should not over run at all. Start there, and once you start getting the hang of it, start slowly loosening the spool tension and brake over time. The only time I really had a problem is when the spool tension got bumped or I hit a tree with the lure. ETA: I should also have said that I'm sure my casting strength/style varies a lot since I fish from a kayak. Hard to keep it consistent, and I've always read putting any excess "umpf" into it can cause backlash. You should be adjusting the reel every time you tie on something new. As for casting from a yak, you don't need to boom the cast as you're literally on top of the fish. Most of my casts are probably 10 yards max when I'm out. You'll get the hang of it As for chucking it out, it's not so much that I'm trying to chuck it out, it's more that I find myself casting awkwardly across (often behind) my body, or using my other hand...sometimes I throw it harder than I mean to. But you're certainly right about being on top of the fish! |
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[#28]
Pros: casting distance, sensitivity, diameter to strength (more line capacity), cutting ability in vegetation
Cons: abrasion resistance, shock resistance, noise through the guides, visibility A lot of people think braid is this super strong, unbreakable line, but in a lot of scenarios you're better off using mono or fluoro especially for abrasion resistance. If you're fishing around rocks, docks, piers (especially with mussels) you're asking for trouble with braid. Also, if you're fishing where you dont have a lot of line out, you have to be careful setting the hook. It's easier to break 65 lb braid on a hookset then 25 lb nylon line. Also, if you're fishing shallow, the noise of the braid going through your guides actually transmits all the way down to the bait...so the fish can literally feel the line going through the guides. It's loud. |
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[#29]
I've only used spiderwire and fireline and fusion the last couple of years.
I use a nice new fingernail clipper to cut the line. I use a palomar knot to tie to my snap/swivel. I've never used it to fish for stripers, just bass. I've not used mono in many years. Oh, for the spinning reels I did go to medium action rods. No line stretch with braided like you have with mono so I wanted a little "give" somewhere in the set up. With the baitcasters I mostly use them for fishing weeds/brush with spinner baits/worms/grubs/Johnson spoons/ buzzbaits which, due to keeping the rod tip up much of the time I don't get as good of hook set anyway, so the stiffer rods and braided line work together with my fishing style. |
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How you live your life is important. Just be sure the memory of how you died doesn't overshadow the tales of how you lived your life.
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[#30]
love power pro super slick. My only gripe is when i run straight braid with no leader. If there is a snag, the weakest link in the system is the lure or the rod tip. This is usually no big as I like to tie on a 8 ft or so flouro leader with an FG knot.
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[#31]
It'll cast better. Less drag in the water so it'll sink better. No stretch, so you'll feel strikes better. It won't break, so you should keep a hook knife handy for when it hangs up on the bottom. Get the scissors / clippers made for cutting braid. It'll slice through your finger like a knife through butter. Yes, use a flouro leader, it's not invisible. It'll cut a groove in ceramic rod tips after a while. It's super thin, so you can fit a ton of it on a spool; but I use mono backing to save a few bucks. Friction knots will slip, Palomar and Uni work well. Tangles don't untangle very easily. Lighten up the drag a bit - especially trolling, no stretching makes a difference there.It lays out flatter, doesn't have the memory mono does.
Good luck !! Don't let the big one get away!! Cheers! -JC |
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Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.
Ernest Hemingway |
[#32]
I use powerpro and will never go back to mono
Flouro Leader 10lb pp for ultralights 20 lb for spinning reels... inshore/bass 30-50 for my baitcasters Ive never had a knot slip with a Uni knot. better distance, strength, pretty much no Cons IMO |
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[#33]
Originally Posted By Shooter-Mike:
I use powerpro and will never go back to mono Flouro Leader 10lb pp for ultralights 20 lb for spinning reels... inshore/bass 30-50 for my baitcasters Ive never had a knot slip with a Uni knot. better distance, strength, pretty much no Cons IMO View Quote the only con imo is that braid FLOATS therefore if I want to use a deep diving crank, mono would get it down there faster. not a big deal for me. |
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[#34]
I'll use braid on a spinning reel but baitcasters get mono. Heaven help you if you get a backlash.
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It's like putting on crampons and walking through a room full of puppies.
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[#35]
On spinning reels braid is awesome for a main line. I suggest a fluoro or mono leader. Don't think you are going to grab the line with bare hands and pull it free though.
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[#36]
I use powerpro and spiderwire on my catfish and musky rods. I run 50lb test because its still fairly thin. Thinner is better, this stuff sticks out like a sore thumb. I put a fluorocarbon leader on if I feel the fish are going to be picky.
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Official NorCal_Leo Nickname: Necro
Everyone has a boiling point. Everyone has buttons. Some are delicate little flowers. ~GrandFatherCoyote |
[Last Edit: LVMIKE]
[#37]
I fish it on everything and tie off 6-20' of flouro. I have some powerpro but mostly suffix. The suffix definitely casts well on a basspro Carbonlite baitcaster but it's a 65lb line. In yellow it's super visible and works great for wacky rigged senkos because you can see the line move on a lot of decent hits.its mostly for heavy weeds though. I use a Albright knot to connect them
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[Last Edit: Tnscooter]
[#38]
anyone tried the kast king braided? I figure for the price at about $14 for 350 yards I will try it on one of my rigs. Has some good reviews. But braids work great for me on some and fluoro on other. seems like the fluoro is more responsive or I feel more with it on my bass pole.
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[#39]
Originally Posted By Tnscooter:
anyone tried the kast king braided? I figure for the price at about $14 for 350 yards I will try it on one of my rigs. Has some good reviews. But braids work great for me on some and fluoro on other. seems like the fluoro is more responsive or I feel more with it on my bass pole. View Quote |
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[Last Edit: TxRabbitBane]
[#40]
Horsing fish out of submerged cover in deep water is a hell of a lot easier with braid. It's durable as hell, castable, and I love it. Less flex, less memory.
There are places, however, when its visibility is a liability. That's when flouro is king. |
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Not fly enough to be halal....
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[#41]
Been in and out of fishing all my life. Just getting back into it. Noticed that braid doesn't seem to go well with spin cast, at least with the Zebco 33 and spider wire I used. Didn't cast and bound up pretty consistently. Think I'll use fluorocarbon on those and get some braided for my spinners and a future baitcast for cats.
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[#42]
Originally Posted By GTN:
I used braided line when it 1st came out 20 something years ago. I fished tournaments for largemouth bass in heavy weeds. For me this is what I thought of it. Casts great. Regular knots slip. If you get a loop in it, it stays.to limp to untie. Get a backlash you had to cut it off the reel. Had to have good scissors to cut it. Needed to use a more limber rod otherwise you would tear the hooks right out of the fish. I snapped a couple rods when I set the hook to hard. No stretch - pro & con. Very expensive compared to mono. I went back to 20lb Big Game line View Quote |
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I am the 53%
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[#43]
I like using spider wire stealth on a light-ish spinning set up. Since braid floats, I use it with weightless Senkos to detect a light bite.
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My offensive line can beat up your defensive line.
When gunslingers come to town, sai, things get broken. It's a simple fact of life. |
[#44]
I have Daiwa J-braid on 2 reels, and I really like it. It's more limber than Spiderwire I've used and the Bass Pro stuff on my big shore rod.
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"Peace has cost you your strength and victory has defeated you!"
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[#45]
I use Fireline on my lighter spinning rig for Pike and Bass... one is 8lb and the pike rig is 25lb I believe.
I use Suffix 832 80lb on my musky rig. |
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"Let us speak courtiously,deal fairly and keep ourselves armed and ready." -Theodore Roosevelt
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