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Posted: 11/12/2020 12:06:44 PM EDT
I know this might be a bit of a long shot, but any chance anyone here has the same body style as my truck (2006 Silverado 2500HD Duramax) and could share some pictures of where they mounted their radio, how they secured their mag mount antenna cable on the outside of the cab, and where they ran the antenna cable into the cab?
I want to run a mag mount antenna, and I want to secure the antenna cable so that it doesn't buff off my paint. I also don't want to use something that has such a strong adhesive that it'll rip off my paint too if I have to remove it. Here is a picture of what my dash currently looks like for reference: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vy9fXuU1AoqXbY8u7 
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Posted: 11/12/2020 12:23:53 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm a NMO front fender mount guy (F250, 4Runner, E350, Transit Wagon) It allows me a nicer and more solid mount vs. a roof Mag Mount and a plethora of higher gain antenna choices. It's proven to be a less optimum mounting position by those smarter than I (front fender offers less ground plane than roof center) But I've never had a problem making any contacts with anyone that I could hear. This option keeps you from scaring paint with a magnet or drilling a hole in the roof. It also places the mast lower for less interference with parking garages and limbs. YMMV.
NMO Front Fender Mount ETA: srry not what you asked for, but I sold my Avalanche before getting my Ham Ticket |
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Posted: 11/12/2020 12:56:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm a NMO front fender mount guy (F250, 4Runner, E350, Transit Wagon) It allows me a nicer and more solid mount vs. a roof Mag Mount and a plethora of higher gain antenna choices. It's proven to be a less optimum mounting position by those smarter than I (front fender offers less ground plane than roof center) But I've never had a problem making any contacts with anyone that I could hear. This option keeps you from scaring paint with a magnet or drilling a hole in the roof. It also places the mast lower for less interference with parking garages and limbs. YMMV. NMO Front Fender Mount ETA: srry not what you asked for, but I sold my Avalanche before getting my Ham Ticket Which antenna are you using? |
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Posted: 11/12/2020 1:02:54 PM EDT
[#3]
I began with a Diamond 7500 Super-gainer, it ended up being replaced with a Comet SBB5. The performance appears to be near identical and the Comet is a little more forgiving (flexible) than the Diamond. I have a Comet SSB1 to use on her Wrangler Spare Tire mount (one of these days)
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Posted: 11/12/2020 2:12:50 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm a NMO front fender mount guy (F250, 4Runner, E350, Transit Wagon) It allows me a nicer and more solid mount vs. a roof Mag Mount and a plethora of higher gain antenna choices. It's proven to be a less optimum mounting position by those smarter than I (front fender offers less ground plane than roof center) But I've never had a problem making any contacts with anyone that I could hear. This option keeps you from scaring paint with a magnet or drilling a hole in the roof. It also places the mast lower for less interference with parking garages and limbs. YMMV. NMO Front Fender Mount ETA: srry not what you asked for, but I sold my Avalanche before getting my Ham Ticket I'm by no means an expert in any sense. I'm probably the most inexperienced general out there. I just got it because the test was easy. But the whole ground plane idea is definitely what was holding me back. I hadn't met anyone with the fender mount. But I love the idea of how clean the install wires would be, just simply going straight in the engine bay where they can be tucked away. And then with the NMO mount, the antenna could easily come off in case I wanted to go through the car wash or something. I assume you have the Wolcott that you linked to? How's the quality of materials? Their website looks like most of the stuff they sell might be a little on the cheaper side and more focused on CB? |
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Posted: 11/12/2020 4:13:12 PM EDT
[#5]
I doubt I used the Walcott for the install in her old 2003 Suburban (sorry forgot about that vehicle), but the mount I had was very similar as was the coax. The removeable end (as shown on walcott) is a nice deal to help push through the rubber grommets in the firewall. Most (large majority) of the products you'll find for this particular install will be of similar quality, if not the same thing with a different brand name.
This is an alternate bracket.... another alternate another :) add a coax cable assembly and antenna and you're GTG |
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Posted: 11/12/2020 5:14:25 PM EDT
[#6]
So you have late model NBS front clip (we'll call it post-2004 as it was used on the 2004.5-2007 Classic trucks). That takes a special bracket (similar to the ones built for Ram trucks) if you ever want to run a fender mount on one of those. I've installed in plenty of the GMT800 trucks ("Second Gen Silverado's") but it always involved a hole saw.
My advise, drill the damn hole. Won't devalue the truck at all, shit you could blow a few holes in the roof with a 12 gauge and no one would care because it's a "pre-emissions" diesel since both LLY's and LBZ's only had EGR and catalytic converters. |
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Posted: 11/12/2020 5:40:32 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My advise, drill the damn hole. I've got a 2007 Suburban 2500; I drilled. First vehicle I drilled, and I don't know why I waited so long. Works great. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:01:35 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:...My advise, drill the damn hole. ... +1 At trade-in time, I've never heard a car dealer say a word about NMO mounts. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:09:10 AM EDT
[#9]
I'm not at all worried about the value of the truck. I'm the type to drive something until the wheels fall off. I'm more worried about leaks and creating a starting point for moisture to get under the paint and spread.
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:27:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm not at all worried about the value of the truck. I'm the type to drive something until the wheels fall off. I'm more worried about leaks and creating a starting point for moisture to get under the paint and spread. Drilled mine 2-3 years ago. No problems yet. Use a quality NMO and you should be good. Weatherproof caps come in handy if you're removing the antenna for a while. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:29:33 AM EDT
[#11]
A mag mount and the coax will do far more damage than a properly installed NMO mount.
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Posted: 11/13/2020 10:03:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm not at all worried about the value of the truck. I'm the type to drive something until the wheels fall off. I'm more worried about leaks and creating a starting point for moisture to get under the paint and spread. Little bit of history. NMO stands for New MOtorola. It was a replacement to what is now called OMO which was a roof antenna mount Motorola patented in 1947. OMO was prone to leaking and other issues. In 1969 Motorola began shipping the newly dubbed NMO mount and it was introduced into a market with mounts such as Larsen's "L" mount and GE's 8-Ball mount. It has since become the defacto mounting standard to the point, very few will even know the other mounts I am referencing. When installed properly, NMO does not leak. There are vehicles floating around with some agencies that have been in service for decades and are still running the originally installed NMO mounts. You clearly care about the finish of your vehicle. Mag mounts often get dirt under them and will begin to scratch the paint. They can also attract iron particles in the air which can also begin to rub the paint. The coax running across the roof over time will wear the clear coat away and if you run the coax through a door...it will often have water dripping down it when you are driving in rain. With NMO, the coax is on the inside of the cab and with most antennas there are two seals to keep water from entering the vehicle. Moisture will always be present though because the vehicles aren't sealed...take a look at the steering column support that runs under the dash and you'll see it has minor surface rust (not a painted part). |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 10:15:18 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm a NMO front fender mount guy (F250, 4Runner, E350, Transit Wagon) It allows me a nicer and more solid mount vs. a roof Mag Mount and a plethora of higher gain antenna choices. It's proven to be a less optimum mounting position by those smarter than I (front fender offers less ground plane than roof center) But I've never had a problem making any contacts with anyone that I could hear. This option keeps you from scaring paint with a magnet or drilling a hole in the roof. It also places the mast lower for less interference with parking garages and limbs. YMMV. NMO Front Fender Mount ETA: srry not what you asked for, but I sold my Avalanche before getting my Ham Ticket BTW - On my current vehicle, I just drilled the roof for an NMO. Wish I would have done it years ago. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 12:17:45 PM EDT
[#14]
So what is the part number for the NMO mount that everyone is using through their roofs? Something like this?
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/cma-ck-3nmo/documentation |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 12:40:58 PM EDT
[#15]
NMOs that leak are usually the result of the ignorant installing them without the gaskets ("better ground that way", good grief...).
With pickups generally you can drop the dome light and access a good mounting spot from the underside which gives you the option of using the 3/8" hole mounts if you don't have the hole saw for the regular NMO mounts. https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-mb8-1132 https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmokhfud-1123 https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-mabt8-1154 |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 12:43:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Or maybe one from this list?
https://pulselarsenantennas.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/PulseLarsen_CableMounts_Flyer_2017_WEBQUALITY.pdf |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 12:45:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: NMOs that leak are usually the result of the ignorant installing them without the gaskets ("better ground that way", good grief...). With pickups generally you can drop the dome light and access a good mounting spot from the underside which gives you the option of using the 3/8" hole mounts if you don't have the hole saw for the regular NMO mounts. Money isn't an issue. I'd want to make sure it's done correctly use the best quality parts. Do you guys usually drill the hole or broach it? I would think that broaching it would provide a cleaner edge and less paint damage? |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 1:44:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Money isn't an issue. I'd want to make sure it's done correctly use the best quality parts. Do you guys usually drill the hole or broach it? I would think that broaching it would provide a cleaner edge and less paint damage? The whole point of the 3/4 inch NMO mount is to be able to install it without having to access the underside of the hole. No one other than a few pedantic ham guys uses a hole punch. The normal tool is an NMO specific hole saw:  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 2:36:32 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Money isn't an issue. I'd want to make sure it's done correctly use the best quality parts. Do you guys usually drill the hole or broach it? I would think that broaching it would provide a cleaner edge and less paint damage? Could always look up your local police/fire radio shop and let them do it........unless you have or can score the proper tools 
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Posted: 11/13/2020 5:28:17 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Drill the damn hole. Quote HistoryQuoted: Drill the damn hole. Quoted: The whole point of the 3/4 inch NMO mount is to be able to install it without having to access the underside of the hole. No one other than a few pedantic ham guys uses a hole punch. The normal tool is an NMO specific hole saw: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58237/external-content_duckduckgo_com_jpeg-1682624.JPG You'll want some access to the underside to make sure you're not punching through a support strut, wiring harness, airbag/sensor, etc. The headliner doesn't have to come all the way out; pull it down enough to make sure you're not on something important and have clearance/routing for the coax. Painters tape can be used to give you a good reference line, and prevent chips from damaging paint. Glow rods to fish the coax through.  Install antennas. I like EMWave stuff.  Label/color-code, terminate, and do a commissioning sweep... shove those files in with the service records for the vehicle.  Connect to radio(s), check you've got rx and gps, then do a quick radio-check to dispatch. 
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Posted: 11/13/2020 6:04:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ^this^. Those kinda suck. A good step drill will leave a cleaner hole, followed by a quick zip with a deburring tool to clean up the edges. You'll want some access to the underside to make sure you're not punching through a support strut, wiring harness, airbag/sensor, etc. The headliner doesn't have to come all the way out; pull it down enough to make sure you're not on something important and have clearance/routing for the coax. Painters tape can be used to give you a good reference line, and prevent chips from damaging paint. Glow rods to fish the coax through. https://photos.smugmug.com/Trucks/i-DXk2PXg/0/b4b3e96a/L/IMG_20190224_115927760_HDR-L.jpg Install antennas. I like EMWave stuff. https://photos.smugmug.com/Trucks/i-4rGwKCX/0/96edc9e1/L/IMG_20190312_102735213-L.jpg Label/color-code, terminate, and do a commissioning sweep... shove those files in with the service records for the vehicle. https://photos.smugmug.com/Trucks/i-NhMScQb/0/bcf8414f/L/IMG_20190309_134112489_HDR-L.jpg Connect to radio(s), check you've got rx and gps, then do a quick radio-check to dispatch. https://photos.smugmug.com/Radios/i-WKwRXZn/0/b0cfb6c0/L/i-WKwRXZn-L.jpg No sweep test with an analyzer?  Good work though  I used painters tape also, along with a non-metal tape measure (I think it came from a fabric store), I'd measure to get them centered exactly and just mark on the tape. Tape makes cleaning up the chips easier too. Once when I was working on a really nice car I used a square of contact paper to keep all the chips off the paint. If you do have access to the bottom, another trick if position is critical (like inside a reinforcement channel or something like that) is to drill a small, 1/8 or whatever hole up from the bottom first, then that puts your hole saw in exactly the right place. Larger cab pickups I usually just pop the dome light down, pick a good spot and drill the pilot hole up. And as I mentioned before, if you have full access to the bottom of the hole you can use a 3/8" hole and a 3/8 mount, which can just be drilled with a good sharp 3/8 twist bit. Used to put the thick surface ones in with fender washers on the underside for most pickups and "work" vehicles which reduced the incidences of mounts getting destroyed. When the Sti-Co flexi-whips came out that mostly ended that problem though. The EM Wave stuff looks nice but I've never used any of them. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 7:34:20 PM EDT
[#22]
a local ham friend has a GREEN LEE punch
It works well https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2 |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 8:03:32 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No sweep test with an analyzer? Good work though    E/M Wave - e/m-Flex Test |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 8:21:59 PM EDT
[#24]
I don't have that truck. But what I did on my Tundra was use my aluminum hard cover. Yes with a mag mount. Mine is an accordion style. The front portion closest the cab stays in place. So I attached a steel plate to the aluminum and then put the mag mount in the steel. Works great. For the cable I just dropped it between the bed and cab. Zipped tied it to existing lines it runs up through the door. I couldn't find a spot to get through the rear wall.
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Posted: 11/13/2020 8:24:58 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My advise, drill the damn hole. Won't devalue the truck at all My favorite "just drill it" story... folks needed an antenna but were ADAMANT that there would be NO holes drilled in their nice clean used truck. ADAMANT. They showed up, I trudged out to their vehicle with the install box and glass mount (ugh) antenna kit, hopped up in the bed of the truck and called down to the customer... hey can I put a roof mount on if I don't have to drill? Customer was confused until I showed him the two hole plugs from previous NMO installations on the roof. He'd seen them but they didn't even register with him what they were. |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 10:40:43 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Could always look up your local police/fire radio shop and let them do it........unless you have or can score the proper tools Quote HistoryQuoted: Could always look up your local police/fire radio shop and let them do it........unless you have or can score the proper tools The local shop here charges $50 to drill the hole, mount the NMO mount and run your coax to where you want it. Plus, they can do it quickly, since they do it all day. When I get my new truck, it will have two holes drilled in the roof for two antennas. Either I will do it or the shop will do it. Quoted: Install antennas. I like EMWave stuff. You're the first person that I have heard of using EMWave. I've seen their stuff for a while now, and have been curious about them. How do their antennas and mounts compare to others, like Larsen? I'm thinking about using one of the EMWave combination GPS/NMO mounts when I get my truck. |
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Posted: 11/16/2020 3:55:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My favorite "just drill it" story... folks needed an antenna but were ADAMANT that there would be NO holes drilled in their nice clean used truck. ADAMANT. They showed up, I trudged out to their vehicle with the install box and glass mount (ugh) antenna kit, hopped up in the bed of the truck and called down to the customer... hey can I put a roof mount on if I don't have to drill? Customer was confused until I showed him the two hole plugs from previous NMO installations on the roof. He'd seen them but they didn't even register with him what they were. My old saying was...the system is designed to cover with a NMO mounted antenna on the roof. Anything else and we won't guarantee coverage. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 1:01:46 AM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 11/17/2020 1:59:12 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You're the first person that I have heard of using EMWave. I've seen their stuff for a while now, and have been curious about them. How do their antennas and mounts compare to others, like Larsen? I'm thinking about using one of the EMWave combination GPS/NMO mounts when I get my truck. Not the cheapest stuff out there, but there's a few fleets running around with them. For a truck, the Larsen GPS amplified pucks are cheap enough I don't think the GPS NMO is worth it. I need to look into the GPS/NMO bases, probably going to put one of those on my moto. Motorola's got one as well, I might just go that route and tack it onto the radio order. EMWave's got a ground-plane-independent half-wave antenna i'll get, little longer than the one on my truck, but there's nowhere to get a good ground plane on a bike. Need to get side cases on there first, then figure out what kind of connector I want between bike and side case(s). Power, ignition-sense, PTT, and however many data lines go to the control head. Probably reserve a few pins for lights (turn/brake) and maybe strobes.   
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Posted: 11/17/2020 10:37:42 AM EDT
[#30]
I was a "I'm not gonna drill it" for a long time guy. Then one day I said fuck it. I've never looked back. Antennas work so much better with a good ground plane.
In December of 2017 I bought a 2018 GMC Sierra new. It promptly got three holes punched in the roof. I've never had an issue with paint or leaks. Just make sure you know where you're drilling and enjoy. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 10:50:33 AM EDT
[#31]
I have a NMO mount on the roof of my Jeep and on the roof of my Jetta (VW's are a pain for the record). My Trailblazer had two NMO mounts on it's roof. My pickup (which replaced my Trailblazer) has a 3/4" hole in the roof but it is not occupied by a NMO mount...it has a Panorama "Sharkee" shark fin (internally has cellular, GPS, 2.4/5 GHz) and then a VHF/UHF/7/800 MHz whip on it.
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Posted: 11/18/2020 12:32:50 PM EDT
[#32]
I didn't want to drill into my brand new Tacoma so I used a hood mount bracket. It gets a decent ground plane off the hood though I'm sure its not symmetrical. The coax routes into the engine compartment and through an existing grommet in the firewall so I didn't have to drill into the truck at all.
A nice side benefit is at a glance the antenna looks like a factory AM/FM radio antenna due to its placement.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 2:43:52 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My advise, drill the damn hole. Won't devalue the truck at all, shit you could blow a few holes in the roof with a 12 gauge and no one would care because it's a "pre-emissions" diesel since both LLY's and LBZ's only had EGR and catalytic converters. Bingo. Drill the hole and put an NMO mount in it. If you don’t have the tools or are concerned about buggering it up have a shop do it. They’ll even run the coax down the A/B/C pillar and under your carpet to wherever you want to mount your radio so you don’t have cables flopping around. On my truck (‘02 F350) I don’t have a power drivers seat so I just put it under there. Then I placed the control head on top of the dash and ran the wiring through a seam in the dash down to the carpet and under the carpet to the radio. If you have a power seat perhaps under the passenger seat or center seat/console. Or even against the back of the cab behind the seat if the cables for your head remote are long enough. The NMO will save your door seal and coax as well not having that piece of coax constantly getting pinched and deforming the seal over time. The Larsen 2/70 1/4 wave is a great antenna for running through the woods or parking garages. It has a spring at the base so it can fold over quite readily. It’s also has low/no wind noise. The NMO mount is designed to be water tight so no worries about leakage. Larsen has a nice cap you can put on for running through car washes to keep the contacts dry. Otherwise just make sure to dry them off before reattaching the antenna. But just do yourself a favor and drill the hole. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 2:59:39 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cleaner look, no exposed spring. Dust-seal lip to the roof of the vehicle, in addition to an O-ring underneath. "Base part" and "antenna part" detach easily (1/4-20 stud on a 1/2"~ish tall base), if you need to remove for clearance for whatever reason. Not the cheapest stuff out there, but there's a few fleets running around with them. For a truck, the Larsen GPS amplified pucks are cheap enough I don't think the GPS NMO is worth it. Thanks! I'll have to look more closely at their products. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 8:16:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I didn't want to drill into my brand new Tacoma so I used a hood mount bracket. It gets a decent ground plane off the hood though I'm sure its not symmetrical. The coax routes into the engine compartment and through an existing grommet in the firewall so I didn't have to drill into the truck at all. A nice side benefit is at a glance the antenna looks like a factory AM/FM radio antenna due to its placement. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/276110/20200325_184059_jpg-1689872.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/276110/20200325_184053__2__LI_jpg-1689873.JPG Just drill it. Put these in back in 2018 on my brand new Sierra... The performance difference is worth it. 
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