Quoted:
I posted this elsewhere, may as well ask here, too.
LaRue LT-104 says torque rings to 30, Vortex optic instructions say 18 max...
Most mounts will say 20-30, but the optics mostly use that 18 number.
What to do?!
View Quote
We'll try to be as clear as possible here. As JohnDough already said, it's very difficult to get a handle on every single type of ring/mount/receiver/base/fastener/etc combo out there on the market. We've tried and have tested hundreds if not thousands of combo's, but surely there's something we've missed. Here's how it generally breaks down, though:
Horizontally split rings:
- We suggest mounting atop a one piece picatinny rail whenever possible. Going with a two-piece setup where the rings are mounted on individual different parts of the receiver or base sections throws far more variables into the equation and dramatically increases the chances that you're going to need to lap the rings or get a set of rings like the Burris Signature Zee to account for misalignment. With these rings, a high quality set clamped in a "Star" or "Alternating" pattern of tightening the screws to 15-18 inch pounds should do and we do not recommend going over. There should be a ring gap on both sides that you can try to get relatively even. That ring gap causes tension on the threads since the two ring halves are not butted up against one another and it eliminates the need for a thread locker. Using a thread locker is redundant and actually lubricates the threads, causing the torque wrench to cam over well beyond when it should have and can cause issues with overtorqued rings. 25-30 inch pounds on the base screws that clamp the screws to the actual base itself is fine. If the rings do have to mount directly to the receiver, then those fasteners will be quite small. We DO recommend loc-titing those and go to 20 inch pounds.
Vertically split rings:
- There are many types, but for the most part, they work the same. In this case, we do NOT recommend doing the "Star" or "Alternating" torque sequence between the ring screws. Usually there are 4 screws - 2 bottom and 2 top. Torque the
BOTTOM 2 first before even touching the
TOP 2 and you can go to
25 inch pounds there. Then go to the TOPS and torque to the recommended 15-18 inch pounds. In this case, the top ring gap shouldn't actually be a gap at all - the ring could be fully closed at the
BOTTOM and with a gap only on the
TOP. This is how we do ADM's, LaRue's, Warne's, etc. Otherwise there will be scope slip in our experience or impingement of the scope tube. Same deal goes for thread locker and the screws clamping the ring to the base as the horizontally split rings. If using our old Pro series rings (They were kind of a hybrid horizontally and vertically split ring, that's where you go tops first, then bottom)
Oddballs:
- There are some rings that use a cam system on one half of the ring with just two screws, for example, on the opposing side. This example would include ones like the Aero cantilever mounts - they work, but we don't even recommend going over 14 inch pounds on those screws as we've seen ill effects of doing so on the scope's performance from impingement. In other cases, like the ARC mounts out there, they recommend upwards of 50 inch pounds on the one screw they have - we actually found this works! In fact, they seem to work better the more torque you put on them. It's baffling, but we've tested it tons of times and have yet to cause a problem with doing so. There are others too, but these are some of the notable ones.
You're always welcome to give us a call and we can walk you through it. Chances are if you have a ring/base, someone here has tried it before and can speak to how to torque it properly.
Hope this helps a bit.
PLEASE NOTE - IMPORTANT EDIT ABOVE