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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Alaska travel questions

Posted: 10/8/2019 10:58:58 AM EDT

I started this in Travel but it isn't getting any looks.
First off, neither my wife or myself have ever been to AK. We both work a lot of hours and is hard for us to get away for more than 6 days, Initially we started looking at either cruise or train. However it looks like our bucket list items push us toward the winter season, hers is dog sledding, mine is viewing northern lights. The AK railroad has a "package" starting from ANC to Fairbanks, 6 day trip that includes our 2 items, however I think it has a lot of wasted time in it,(like 2 days in Talkeetna ). So now I am looking more the lines of fly into Fairbanks, and stay 1 week maybe in January, book our own sledding, book our own Aurora viewing and possibly a day ride to Denali, from what i see the Denali would only get you in close as the most is closed for the winter? And a trip to Artic circle if time allows? Is this a crazy itinerary? Also, would Feb. be better for Aurora viewing than Jan? Feel free to give your recommendations, you guys are there and know best, I am in Alabama and know nothing about AK.

Posted: 10/8/2019 12:37:43 PM EDT

[#1]

Day trip to Denali as in on the train or via rental car?

Train gets you closer to the mountian, but car allows you to stop at other scenic view points on the way.

Arctic Circle will be a FULL day trip, but most rental car companies up here don’t allow their rentals to go on gravel highways, like the Dalton (part is paved but it changes) and in winter, it will all be hardpack with no road surface showing most likely. If you dont have much winter driving experience, I wouldnt suggest that trip and there are no services after you leave Fairbanks until Coldfoot which is well past the circle. You should have a decent winter kit with food/water/extra cold weather gear and a gas can at least to make that drive.

Posted: 10/8/2019 1:44:25 PM EDT

[#2]

We wouldn't be going in a rental, Alaska Wildlife guide service does a trip I assume in a van that leaves at 2:00 pm and goes to artic circle and hopefully see northern lights, returning around 4:00 am, I would rather someone else do the driving so that I can do more observing of the area.

Posted: 10/8/2019 4:12:45 PM EDT

[#3]

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We wouldn't be going in a rental, Alaska Wildlife guide service does a trip I assume in a van that leaves at 2:00 pm and goes to artic circle and hopefully see northern lights, returning around 4:00 am, I would rather someone else do the driving so that I can do more observing of the area.

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Then hell yeah, do it, only so many chances in life to check that off the bucket list.

Posted: 10/10/2019 8:34:02 PM EDT

[#4]

Aurora will be luck of the draw. Really don’t need any of the ”aurora sight seeing tours”. There are plenty of places close to town you could go for a good view if they are out.

Between Fairbanks and the arctic circle there really isn’t anything. And the arctic circle is really just a sign on the side of the road then you turn around and drive all the way back. It’s cool but a long ways out of the way for a sign.

I live in Fairbanks and absolutely love it, but the anchorage/kenai/Seward/homer has a lot more stuff to do. Maybe not as much in the winter.

Some fun cheap ideas:
Public use cabins, range from free to $45/night. Some you can drive to, others are way out there.

Ice fishing, chena and tanana lake have ice huts you can rent(think it’s $35/day) and comes with everything but the pole which you can pick up an ice fishing pole for $15-20 locally.

Everyone will recommend chena hot springs. About 60 miles from town. Have all the typical tourist activities, dog sled rides, snowmachine and susv tours and the hot spring itself. It’s not my cup of tea but a lot of people enjoy it.

If you have any further questions just let me know. If I’m in town when you come I’d be happy to take you ice fishing myself.

Posted: 10/10/2019 9:49:02 PM EDT

[#5]

Thanks Rosta, we booked it and will be flying into Fairbanks, staying in North Pole Jan 11-17. I might shoot you a IM when it gets closer to time. Thanks for your input.

Posted: 10/10/2019 10:15:18 PM EDT

[#6]

No problem, I travel for work and work 2weeks on 2 off and I’ll be gone during that time frame but can still answer any questions you might have.

Posted: 10/10/2019 11:16:22 PM EDT

[#7]

I’m in Fairbanks as well at Ft Wainwright. Grew up here and finally got back. @NorthPolar has the best spots for the Aurora

Posted: 10/11/2019 2:33:28 AM EDT

[#8]

Hopefully there will be clear weather for your trip

I'm just outside of Fairbanks in North Pole (grew up here) hence my username.

Unless you're experienced in driving in subzero temps and know what to do in an 'oh shit' without cell coverage, I'd honestly recommend booking with someone. Personally I lean toward the Aurora Hunters (Ronn and Marketa Murray) but I know them from when I worked at the camera shop. They'll load up in a van and drive to where you'll see the lights if it's feasible, even if it is a long night. That said, a lot of those companies will.

If the weather is clear, you'll be able to see the lights from pretty much anywhere it's dark provided you're willing to stay up late and the data looks decent. Even on a 'meh' day of solar activity you should see something though. If it's good, it really gets good, but the lights are kinda bipolar. They could run all night, or you get 10 minutes of an awesome show, or just a hazy green blob in the sky. Nature is weird, yo.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about the dog sledding but there are kennels up here that do it. Depending on the weather it could be pretty decent (for us, you'd probably still be cold) in the -20f range, but if it's a real winter it could be -40f or colder. I'd imagine the sled guys have something to keep people warm, but don't know for sure.

Posted: 10/12/2019 10:20:23 AM EDT

[#9]

I think for now we have found a guide that does a trip that sounds really good. Leave at night dog sledding out on frozen lake to a fishing cabin, ice fish in heated cabin, while hoping the lights make an appearance.
Being from Alabama I have minimal experience driving, we will rent a car for small runs, but I agree I don't intend to take on any long runs by myself.

Posted: 10/12/2019 9:47:03 PM EDT

[#10]

Rosta I agree with you that the arctic circle might be a bit boring unless seeing the AB, I guess I was hoping to also see some wild life, Moose or Caribou. Could anyone recommend a drive to hopefully view wildlife? Maybe a loop down toward Denali?

Posted: 10/13/2019 12:27:25 AM EDT

[#11]

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Rosta I agree with you that the arctic circle might be a bit boring unless seeing the AB, I guess I was hoping to also see some wild life, Moose or Caribou. Could anyone recommend a drive to hopefully view wildlife? Maybe a loop down toward Denali?

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There’s no “loop”, just back and forth. The Denali Highway that goes from Denali to the Richardson is another one of those gravel roads, thats even less maintained, and may even be closed when you’re here. You can drive to Denali and back, or I would suggest a drive up the Steese Highway towards Circle. Steese is where a caribou herd crosses and moose are all over. Eagle summit may be closed but the view from the roads is awesome regardless. That one you can manage with a rental car and stop at the Chatanika lodge for food/drinks on your way back to town.

Posted: 10/13/2019 8:07:25 AM EDT

[#12]

Thanks! And thanks to all who have contributed with your thoughts.

Posted: 10/13/2019 11:33:38 AM EDT

[#13]

Moose aren’t too hard to find around the Fairbanks area. Check out the chena flood plane in North Pole around dawn and dusk.

You won’t find caribou in Fairbanks tho. Like was mentioned the steese highway around mile marker 100+ is a good place to find them.

Or past delta junction on the Richardson near Donnely dome they can be found too(also a lot of moose in that area) but once again it’s a 100 mile plus drive from Fairbanks. The Santa Claus house in North Pole has some pet ones you can feed and what not.

There is also a reindeer ranch in Murphy dome.
https://runningreindeer.com/

And the UAF large animal research center

https://www.uaf.edu/lars/visit/

Any idea what lake the guide takes you to?

Took this picture at the North Pole post office.

Attached File

Posted: 10/13/2019 12:13:36 PM EDT

[#14]

Not sure of the lake but will try and find out, I know the house we have rented is right on the Chena river.

Posted: 10/13/2019 1:16:31 PM EDT

[#15]

Well hell, let us know when you’re there and I’ll make a run up the river on the snowmachine! If you want to take an easy sled trip, and the river is in good shape, I’ve got extra snow-go’s we can zip around on.

Posted: 10/13/2019 1:38:45 PM EDT

[#16]

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Well hell, let us know when you’re there and I’ll make a run up the river on the snowmachine! If you want to take an easy sled trip, and the river is in good shape, I’ve got extra snow-go’s we can zip around on.

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Snow-gos? It’s like I don’t even know you anymore. The south changed you, man.

(Seriouslythough, wat?

)

Posted: 10/13/2019 6:02:18 PM EDT

[#17]

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Well hell, let us know when you’re there and I’ll make a run up the river on the snowmachine! If you want to take an easy sled trip, and the river is in good shape, I’ve got extra snow-go’s we can zip around on.

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Sounds like fun, I gottta try and round up enough clothes to keep warm! I have been looking at ECWCS surplus, and would like some opinions, would level 1, 3 and 7 be sufficient? To much? Not enough? It's not terribly expensive but have no idea what to do about boots.

Posted: 10/13/2019 6:48:06 PM EDT

[#18]

For activities where you will be sitting still, like dog sledding, light watching, and snowmachining, gov issue Bunny Boots are the shit. For the price they are hard to beat for just one trip. ECWCS works well, biggest thing is loose layers, not tight fitting stuff to keep air gaps between them. If you want to buy other boots, Baffins are my go-to but any good boot will be pricey. Sorel’s aren’t bad either.

Posted: 10/13/2019 7:11:15 PM EDT

[#19]

Level 7s are pretty warm. I’d go with levels 2s over 3s. Civilian world has a lot better stuff tho.

Posted: 10/13/2019 7:51:35 PM EDT

[#20]

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For activities where you will be sitting still, like dog sledding, light watching, and snowmachining, gov issue Bunny Boots are the shit. For the price they are hard to beat for just one trip. ECWCS works well, biggest thing is loose layers, not tight fitting stuff to keep air gaps between them. If you want to buy other boots, Baffins are my go-to but any good boot will be pricey. Sorel’s aren’t bad either.

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Honestly, take this as gospel ‘squatch has gone through shittier conditions than I’d like to imagine. And yeah, bunny boots are amazing stuff.

Btw are they still issued or did they go out of style?

Posted: 10/13/2019 8:23:41 PM EDT

[#21]

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Honestly, take this as gospel ‘squatch has gone through shittier conditions than I’d like to imagine. And yeah, bunny boots are amazing stuff.

Btw are they still issued or did they go out of style?

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Bunny boots are still issued and still good to go. Never had cold feet in them.

Posted: 10/13/2019 9:47:28 PM EDT

[#22]

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Level 7s are pretty warm. I’d go with levels 2s over 3s. Civilian world has a lot better stuff tho.

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Please excuse my ignorance, but we don't have any weather like this in Alabama.....are you recommending level 1/2/7? And thanks again to everyone for the help, at least we will be reasonably prepared.

Posted: 10/14/2019 12:01:32 AM EDT

[#23]

Yeah I’d go 1/2/7. 2s you get the bottoms too. Hard to beat waffle bottoms.

Posted: 10/14/2019 4:39:25 PM EDT

[#24]

Air plane ride? I see you wrote off a stop in Talkeetna, but have you thought about a flightseeing tour? David Hicks (n2alaska) flies out of Talkeetna and does summer tours and does drop offs for hunters in the fall. I don't know if he flies people out in the winter.

I can't afford to go flying, but if my family wanted to do this, this is the guy I'd have them fly with. I'll see him Friday if you'd like me to ask if he does winter flying. Or you could give him a call/message.

It's said you can only see Denali 1 out of 3 days, but we have had some great views the past several days!

Posted: 10/14/2019 9:55:14 PM EDT

[#25]

Sadly my wife is super paranoid about small planes.......I personally would be all over it!

Posted: 10/19/2019 12:24:18 PM EDT

[#26]

Mr. Hicks does fly folks around in the Winter.

Hope you have a wonderful trip!

Posted: 12/5/2019 12:51:11 PM EDT

[#27]

Only a few weeks now until we come to Fairbanks/North Pole, any places to eat that you locals can recommend, or recommend to stay away from? I am thinking one day we will drive to Denali, one day drive south toward Delta Junction, and one day drive north. Feel free to give me any feedback if you feel I am screwing up somewhere...............

Posted: 12/5/2019 1:19:55 PM EDT

[#28]

Silver Gulch for semi-fancy and beer selection
Cookie Jar has one of the better breakfast menus in town
Pagoda in North Pole has good chinese, its a real sit in not so much a take-out place.
Shoguns does the hibatchi stuff, not as good as down south but not bad either.
College Town Pizza has the best pizza in town in my opinion.
Geraldo’s or Valatta for italian
Cushman Irashi Sushi is damned good if you like rolled bait too.
Lemongrass Thai is best thai in town
Seoul Gate in the basement of the bowling alley has AWESOME Korean food, I love their kimchi

Posted: 12/5/2019 1:34:44 PM EDT

[#29]

Salchaket Roadhouse on god way to Delta is fantastic. Doesn’t look impressive inside, but great food.

Posted: 12/5/2019 1:52:14 PM EDT

[#30]

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Quoted:
Silver Gulch for semi-fancy and beer selection
Cookie Jar has one of the better breakfast menus in town
Pagoda in North Pole has good chinese, its a real sit in not so much a take-out place.
Shoguns does the hibatchi stuff, not as good as down south but not bad either.
College Town Pizza has the best pizza in town in my opinion.
Geraldo’s or Valatta for italian
Cushman Irashi Sushi is damned good if you like rolled bait too.
Lemongrass Thai is best thai in town
Seoul Gate in the basement of the bowling alley has AWESOME Korean food, I love their kimchi

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Lemongrass Thai is awesome.

Posted: 12/5/2019 7:21:37 PM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:
Silver Gulch for semi-fancy and beer selection
Cookie Jar has one of the better breakfast menus in town
Pagoda in North Pole has good chinese, its a real sit in not so much a take-out place.
Shoguns does the hibatchi stuff, not as good as down south but not bad either.
College Town Pizza has the best pizza in town in my opinion.
Geraldo’s or Valatta for italian
Cushman Irashi Sushi is damned good if you like rolled bait too.
Lemongrass Thai is best thai in town
Seoul Gate in the basement of the bowling alley has AWESOME Korean food, I love their kimchi

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You must not have eaten at house of fire pizza yet. It’s amazing but is on the pricey side.

Totally agree with silver gultch and cookie jar though.

Posted: 12/5/2019 7:24:26 PM EDT

[#32]

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Only a few weeks now until we come to Fairbanks/North Pole, any places to eat that you locals can recommend, or recommend to stay away from? I am thinking one day we will drive to Denali, one day drive south toward Delta Junction, and one day drive north. Feel free to give me any feedback if you feel I am screwing up somewhere...............

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I will never eat at gallios(Mexican joint) again. To be honest there isn’t really a good Mexican place in Fairbanks.

I drove Fairbanks to a bit past delta the other day and saw 7 moose and a boatload of caribou(past delta if you continue on the Richardson highway past fort greely to where it opens up near Donnely dome is a great place for finding caribou)

Posted: 12/5/2019 7:58:31 PM EDT

[#33]

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I will never eat at gallios(Mexican joint) again. To be honest there isn’t really a good Mexican place in Fairbanks.

I drove Fairbanks to a bit past delta the other day and saw 7 moose and a boatload of caribou(past delta if you continue on the Richardson highway past fort greely to where it opens up near Donnely dome is a great place for finding caribou)

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I miss Los Amigos, it wasnt great but it was 50 feet from work

Is that burger place thats in there any good?

Been meaning to try Fire and Hungry Robot

Posted: 12/5/2019 8:03:59 PM EDT

[#34]

Not sure what burger place you are talking about.

Hungry robot is okay, but in my opinion too much cheese and under cooked. I also only had it once like 2 years ago. I’ve been meaning to try east ramp but whenever I go out for pizza I just end up at house of fire it seems these days.

Posted: 12/5/2019 8:40:58 PM EDT

[#35]

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Not sure what burger place you are talking about.

Hungry robot is okay, but in my opinion too much cheese and under cooked. I also only had it once like 2 years ago. I’ve been meaning to try east ramp but whenever I go out for pizza I just end up at house of fire it seems these days.

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Fenders

Posted: 12/5/2019 8:48:09 PM EDT

[#36]

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Fenders

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Haven’t heard of that one. Looks pretty good on google though.

Posted: 12/5/2019 9:55:32 PM EDT

[#37]

Keep it up guys! I am super excited about our trip. I really want to get the feel for real Alaska, and your input will really make this a more "authentic " Alaskan experience.

Posted: 12/5/2019 10:36:12 PM EDT

[#38]

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Keep it up guys! I am super excited about our trip. I really want to get the feel for real Alaska, and your input will really make this a more "authentic " Alaskan experience.

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Piss in the Yukon when you cross it, makes the trip.

If you can, drive the Denali highway from Cantwell to Tangle lakes. BEAUTIFUL drive, but all gravel and lots of wildlife.

Posted: 12/5/2019 10:39:21 PM EDT

[#39]

Probably mentioned it before but there are a few public use cabins you can drive to( or pretty damn close to) if you want to rough it for a night. Hunt memorial cabin in chena river state rec area. 2 cabins at quartz lake outside of delta. And a blm one in the white mountains north of town.

Posted: 12/5/2019 10:45:49 PM EDT

[#40]

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Piss in the Yukon when you cross it, makes the trip.

If you can, drive the Denali highway from Cantwell to Tangle lakes. BEAUTIFUL drive, but all gravel and lots of wildlife.

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We will be renting a vehicle from Enterprise, I know there are some restrictions like on driving the Steese after it turns to gravel, but that sounds like a great drive to waste a day.

Posted: 12/5/2019 10:47:51 PM EDT

[#41]

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Quoted:

Piss in the Yukon when you cross it, makes the trip.

If you can, drive the Denali highway from Cantwell to Tangle lakes. BEAUTIFUL drive, but all gravel and lots of wildlife.

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Denali highway is closed in the winter(except to dogs and snowmachines.)

Posted: 12/5/2019 10:48:34 PM EDT

[#42]

Not sure how they would know unless we had a accident......I have been checking a few webcams, the last couple of days it looks like Denali has been very viewable and pretty!

Posted: 12/6/2019 12:27:57 AM EDT

[#43]

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Denali highway is closed in the winter(except to dogs and snowmachines.)

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My dumbass was thinking summer solstice, not winter, disregard

Posted: 12/7/2019 3:14:55 PM EDT

[#44]

"Lemongrass Thai is best thai in town"

What do you like about this more than: https://www.thaihousefairbanks.com/

Thai House has always been awesome when I've been there. They will actually make the food hot. The last time I was there they asked for a 1-5 heat rating. I negotiated with the waitress to a 12. It was perfect. After dinner I thanked her for actually making it hot. She got the last laugh though when she said "I saw you eat that. It looked like you were going to cry"

Posted: 12/7/2019 4:10:46 PM EDT

[#45]

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Quoted:
"Lemongrass Thai is best thai in town"

What do you like about this more than: https://www.thaihousefairbanks.com/

Thai House has always been awesome when I've been there. They will actually make the food hot. The last time I was there they asked for a 1-5 heat rating. I negotiated with the waitress to a 12. It was perfect. After dinner I thanked her for actually making it hot. She got the last laugh though when she said "I saw you eat that. It looked like you were going to cry"

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I like Lemongrass more because Ive actually been there unlike Thai house

Posted: 12/7/2019 5:22:36 PM EDT

[#46]

Both Lemongrass and House of Fire are on the list for next summer's bike trip. Thanks for the tips.

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