Some times to get good deals you have to deal with some problems....some people say that's it's not worth it.  But it's guys like that which allow us to get the good deals.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Uh... WTF. If I laid out the cash for a new NFA item I'd at least expect it to be correctly assembled. It was an honest mistake by the local manufacturer. He probably just took the wrong end off. No biggie. Please thread crap no more. You know....I've stewed over this for a while.....and I have not logged in for a few weeks, simply because I grew tired of having to duck when my posts did not quite satisfy some of the "regulars", but I just have to comment. You posted this publicly.  There was most certainly an error in manufacture/assembly.  Had you not wanted "negative" replies, you should have contacted everyone privately! If I purchased a firearm (and yes, a suppressor is classified as a firearm) that was assembled incorrectly, I would most certainly wish to be notified....not only that, if such a thing happens, I would want to know, even if I did NOT purchase! To top it off, your demand that there be no "thread crap" is more (IMHO) than unreasonable! I've no experience with the guy, and I sincerely hope him no ill will, but NoAim, do NOT tell me what I can, and cannot, post here! I'll leave now.

OregonForester, glad I'm not the only one that sees it that way.  Thanks for sticking up for me.  I'll go back now to lurking.

What happened to this place?

One suggestion for your threaded barrels.  I always use anti-seize on the barrel threads.  It makes the suppressor easier to get off after shooting and keeps some metals from galling.  Most auto parts stores carry it in a stick form -- usually used for spark plug threads (Thread-Magic Anti-Seize is one such product).  

Dave Brown

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Uh... WTF. If I laid out the cash for a new NFA item I'd at least expect it to be correctly assembled. It was an honest mistake by the local manufacturer. He probably just took the wrong end off. No biggie. Please thread crap no more. You know....I've stewed over this for a while.....and I have not logged in for a few weeks, simply because I grew tired of having to duck when my posts did not quite satisfy some of the "regulars", but I just have to comment. You posted this publicly.  There was most certainly an error in manufacture/assembly.  Had you not wanted "negative" replies, you should have contacted everyone privately! If I purchased a firearm (and yes, a suppressor is classified as a firearm) that was assembled incorrectly, I would most certainly wish to be notified....not only that, if such a thing happens, I would want to know, even if I did NOT purchase! To top it off, your demand that there be no "thread crap" is more (IMHO) than unreasonable! I've no experience with the guy, and I sincerely hope him no ill will, but NoAim, do NOT tell me what I can, and cannot, post here! I'll leave now. OregonForester, glad I'm not the only one that sees it that way.  Thanks for sticking up for me.  I'll go back now to lurking.

I think NoAim's comment came over a lot more strongly than he really intended. It seemed a bit sharp to me, but I ignored it because I knew what he was getting at -- as he explained a bit earlier.

Its just too easy to write things in e-mail and on these boards that can give unintended offense -- and I'm pretty sure that non was intended. We have all done it -- and if you havn't ... well, its just a matter of time (or you have a much more disciplined approach to writing here than most people).

Anyway - I know where you are coming from with your comment about expecting things to be correctly assembled. But in this case, its really not a big deal - at least he was consistent -- he was actually explaining to us when we picked them up how he assembles them -- and invited us to dismantle them and see how they were put together and get used to the process for cleaning.

Its not like there was anything dangerous about it.

I might have a different opinion if they were sealed cans, or if we had been warned not to poke around inside, but that isn't the case.

I'm sorry that you were offended, and I can sympathize, but really, I don't think it was intentional.

Quoted:
I think NoAim's comment came over a lot more strongly than he really intended. It seemed a bit sharp to me, but I ignored it because I knew what he was getting at -- as he explained a bit earlier.

Life's too short to get butthurt over something that somebody types about you on the internet.  It does, however, sour me to wanting to post in Oregon hometown threads...

Anyway, I was not and am not trying to hijack the thread.  Sorry to derail the thread with my comments.  I won't post anymore in this thread.

The thread's original purpose has bee served now, so I don't see any problem with posting here -- or maybe this is another of those threads that should just be left to die...

Quoted: The thread's original purpose has bee served now, so I don't see any problem with posting here -- or maybe this is another of those threads that should just be left to die...

Well I held off comment actually becuase I KNOW my post will be taken to serious.

I am very upset by this. Actually I am pissed off! I have two of these inbound and hear that they be assembled wrong? WTF? IMHO there is NO, I repeat, NO excuse for this mistake. When I pay $$ for an iem it better be right. It better be safe and it better be as described.

The biggest problem I see is that  this makes me question the tolorences kept while constructing the the can. What "OTHER" things did he not get right?

NoAim, thank you for bringing this up, it needed to be. But please spare us the "I'll have this thread locked" dance. That would do nothing but move it elsewhere.

Take it however you want, but I call BS, plain and simple.
CH

Quoted: Some times to get good deals you have to deal with some problems....some people say that's it's not worth it.  But it's guys like that which allow us to get the good deals.

Yep and somtimes they are good deals for a reason.

You get what you pay for

You get what you pay for

Once agian....Is Alaska only worth 500 beads, 40 blankets, and 3 fifth's of wiskey?

Quoted: You get what you pay for Once agian....Is Alaska only worth 500 beads, 40 blankets, and 3 fifth's of wiskey?

Lets re-phrase that - when buying from sophisticated white guys, you get what you pay for.
Selling to sophisticated white guys, you get ripped off.

$7.2 million... in 1867... paid to Russia

I feel that the can is a good quality can and was a good buy. I am even considering another one down the road a bit. I think Mike is somewhat new to the game and the cans were originally designed by someone else. If I had ANY concern that there was any safety issue or that this wasn't a simple/east fix, I would be the one making the most noise here. However there wasn't and it was a very easy fix to an oversite. I belive that this can was a good deal and built with quality components and is a good value.

I would like to thank Mike M for passing on this deal to the few of us that received or are receiving one. Also, thanks to WS4LIF for working the deal. I am happy with it.

Nox

Your welcome!

Quoted: I feel that the can is a good quality can and was a good buy. I am even considering another one down the road a bit. I think Mike is somewhat new to the game and the cans were originally designed by someone else. If I had ANY concern that there was any safety issue or that this wasn't a simple/east fix, I would be the one making the most noise here. However there wasn't and it was a very easy fix to an oversite. I belive that this can was a good deal and built with quality components and is a good value. I would like to thank Mike M for passing on this deal to the few of us that received or are receiving one. Also, thanks to WS4LIF for working the deal. I am happy with it. Nox

Kiss ass!

I will not buy another from this dealer. There are some things that I have ZERO room for errors on. Firearms and accesories is one of them.

+1 to WS4lif for his work on this non the less.

IMHO: everyone is right, and everyone is wrong on this. There is no correct answer to this particular issue.

Everything that Peta says is true - especially that anyone is (and should be) welcome to post in any thread.

BUT look at the subject heading of this thread:

To those with the new .22 cans. Important Info

The thread was really aimed just at the people mentioned. The author thought it important enough that everyone concerned should be informed, and didn't want that important information diluted by any of the random tangents which almost always occur on these threads.

Yes, he could have chosen his words more carefully, but that is true of us all from time to time, and I am certainly not going to be the first to throw stones on this topic.

-----

The assembly problem: First, its not a safety issue at all, its something that any user of these cans is probably going to do him/herself at some point after cleaning. We probably have to share some of the blame by rushing the vendor to get these cans assembled and delivered to us as fast as possible, we pretty much controlled the timetable, not him -- I will accept responsibility for pushing to get the cans into our hands as fast as possible.

-----

Why the sensitivity -- well, you may remember my comments in a previous (now defunct) thread about the need to try not to (appear to be) be too "clique-ish". To those in the group the original thread was aimed at, all knowing each other reasonably well, and knowing where the boundaries lie, the comments would almost certainly not have been taken so seriously. But to someone on the "outside", without the context of past interactions, it could come over as something else altogether.

Even amongst people who know each other, the written word can be taken wrongly -- thats why all those emoticons exist, to try to set the context for the words. But even they don't always do the trick.

As I said - there is no simple answer. Start insisting on polite, formal discussions and the group(s) of "friends" will feel constrained and probably go elsewhere. Leave things open and free and we will get these sorts of problems occur from time to time. its just the nature of open discussion groups and human beings -- particularly when some of those human beings have relationships extending outside the confines of the discussion group.

Just my 2c worth...

Actually I think he chose his words just fine. He spoke his mind and that is that. No reason to put a bright shining liner on it. and no reason to pretend it didnt happen or shouldnt have happened.

That is the trouble with this place, to much PC bullshit.

If you say somthing and come accorss as a dick, which I do often, then OH WELL! If you act like an asshole and get called on it.... OH FUCKING WELL!!!

It is more distirbing to me to see people trying to not offend this guy or that guy or this group or that group while the actually matter at hand gets lost in the maylay. Whats the point.

Fact is, the cans were fucked up. Period!
Fact is, NoAim let us all know, like any friend would do.
Fact is, we are split on the impotance of this issue.

Thats life!

I am concerned about it.
NoAim is not.
I think it speaks of the quality of the product we are paying for.
WS4LIF, does not.
I will not buy from this dealer again.
Others may.

In the end we will all end up with a can or two that hopefully will last more then a few months.
We will all forget about this little back and forth. We will all be on the firing line doing what we enjoy, shooting.

I am kinda tired of ARs.. i am going to play with HK stuff for awhile. Enjoy!

Political correctness will be the army that defeats the USA!

Did you guys find out who actually builds these cans?   I bought mine directly from Roger at Revelation and was under the impression that he was the mfr.   I'd like to have my tube redone in steel and last I heard Roger was out of the country so if somebody else can actually make it I'd appreciate the info.  

I am kinda tired of ARs.. i am going to play with HK stuff for awhile. Enjoy!

Yeah, it's going to take you a long while to educate yourself on these.

Quoted: Did you guys find out who actually builds these cans?   I bought mine directly from Roger at Revelation and was under the impression that he was the mfr.   I'd like to have my tube redone in steel and last I heard Roger was out of the country so if somebody else can actually make it I'd appreciate the info.

I think the baffles come from Rodger had and the tubes come from Mike. This is only a guess.

Quoted: I am kinda tired of ARs.. i am going to play with HK stuff for awhile. Enjoy! Yeah, it's going to take you a long while to educate yourself on these.

LOL! HKs are cake. Come to the darkside and see for yourself!!!

NoAim:
I did not mean to step on your pecker.....it just griped me that you were so quick to shut off anything negative.
The manufacturer screwed up, plain and simple.
Was it dangerous? No. in all likelyhood, probably not....but the fact remains that it was not just one, or even two...but a number of them!

If he (or his help) cannot even manage to assemble them properly, how in the world can anyone have any confidence that he can do even a decent job of manufacturing them?

A suppressor is more than a sizeably investment! Not only are there the actual costs, but the bull shit of having to be scrutinized by the sheriff, the state police, and the ATF.

When I subject myself to that, I want to make damned sure that I don't have to do it again when I find out that I just purchased junk!

I recently received my TAC-67 and I assure you, had there been one damned thing wrong with it, I would made it public on this board....and I certainly would not have been offended if anyone chimed in!

Installing the baffles backwards is one hell of a lot different than a ding on the finish!
It was a lazy, stupid mistake. Period.

Quoted: One suggestion for your threaded barrels.  I always use anti-seize on the barrel threads.  It makes the suppressor easier to get off after shooting and keeps some metals from galling.  Most auto parts stores carry it in a stick form -- usually used for spark plug threads (Thread-Magic Anti-Seize is one such product).   Dave Brown

Everyone lighten up it's all good!  The problem has been resolved for those of us that received their .22 cans.  

If anything I hope the other First Freedom owners will please use MGKAC556 advise to use the anti-seize on their threads.  I only tightened my can down with my fingers, and the threaded end cap seized up on my barrel threads.  I tried everything from freezing my barrel and applying heat from a hair dryer, soaking in WD-40 overnight, but had no luck.  

MGKAC556 told me it  needed more heat and to try boiling it which finally worked.  I heated the barrel up by boiling it and used a rubber strap wrench that Philip suggested.  It finally broke free after several attempts and the strap wrench was nearly shredded by the threads.  Oh yeah my fingers & right hand got cut to hell after working on this damn thing for a few days.

Don't do what I did and think gun oil is sufficient.  Use anti-seize or something similar.

Good day!

Quoted: Quoted: One suggestion for your threaded barrels.  I always use anti-seize on the barrel threads.  It makes the suppressor easier to get off after shooting and keeps some metals from galling.  Most auto parts stores carry it in a stick form -- usually used for spark plug threads (Thread-Magic Anti-Seize is one such product).   Dave Brown Everyone lighten up it's all good!  The problem has been resolved for those of us that received their .22 cans.   If anything I hope the other First Freedom owners will please use MGKAC556 advise to use the anti-seize on their threads.  I only tightened my can down with my fingers, and the threaded end cap seized up on my barrel threads.  I tried everything from freezing my barrel and applying heat from a hair dryer, soaking in WD-40 overnight, but had no luck.   MGKAC556 told me it  needed more heat and to try boiling it which finally worked.  I heated the barrel up by boiling it and used a rubber strap wrench that Philip suggested.  It finally broke free after several attempts and the strap wrench was nearly shredded by the threads.  Oh yeah my fingers & right hand got cut to hell after working on this damn thing for a few days. Don't do what I did and think gun oil is sufficient.  Use anti-seize or something similar. Good day!

Yikes!

P.S.  Welcome to page 4

Quoted: Quoted: One suggestion for your threaded barrels.  I always use anti-seize on the barrel threads.  It makes the suppressor easier to get off after shooting and keeps some metals from galling.  Most auto parts stores carry it in a stick form -- usually used for spark plug threads (Thread-Magic Anti-Seize is one such product).   Dave Brown Everyone lighten up it's all good!  The problem has been resolved for those of us that received their .22 cans.   If anything I hope the other First Freedom owners will please use MGKAC556 advise to use the anti-seize on their threads.  I only tightened my can down with my fingers, and the threaded end cap seized up on my barrel threads.  I tried everything from freezing my barrel and applying heat from a hair dryer, soaking in WD-40 overnight, but had no luck.   MGKAC556 told me it  needed more heat and to try boiling it which finally worked.  I heated the barrel up by boiling it and used a rubber strap wrench that Philip suggested.  It finally broke free after several attempts and the strap wrench was nearly shredded by the threads.  Oh yeah my fingers & right hand got cut to hell after working on this damn thing for a few days. Don't do what I did and think gun oil is sufficient.  Use anti-seize or something similar. Good day!

Glad it finally worked -- that must have been really on tight. Hard to know what the problem was, but it really sounds like there was something practically gluing the thing in place!

I have some anti-sieze that I think came from Home Depot -- its in a tube, and is fairly soft - almost liquid. I have used a small brush to "paint" the threads of the end-caps, and also the baffles where they fit into each other, and around the outside where they touch the body-tube. I will also put some on the barrel thread after your experience!

Hopefully it will now not be too hard to take appart and keep clean.

Day 4 of calling and calling and calling.....

Quoted: Ong the thing in place! I have some anti-sieze that I think came from Home Depot -- its in a tube, and is fairly soft - almost liquid. I have used a small brush to "paint" the threads of the end-caps, and also the baffles where they fit into each other, and around the outside where they touch the body-tube. I will also put some on the barrel thread after your experience! Hopefully it will now not be too hard to take appart and keep clean.

I will most likely put a little anti-seize on the outside of the baffles where they touch the body tube as well.  It was tough to remove the baffles after firing a few hundred rounds through the can.  They were not easy to remove.  Of couse the only reason I did this was because my end cap was stuck to my pistol.  That and I was curious.

Well i can understand everyones standpoint on this.. to me it wouldent be that big of a deal.. but afterwords i would inspect everything else to make sure they where all correct..

as far as the antiseeze goes remember that ANYTIME you are screwing too disimular metals togather you use antiseeze i was taught this and live by it when working on cars and firearms..

it also acts as a bit of a cusion helping to not strip the threads and the soft alummium..

so make sure all threaded peaices have antiseeze on them.. if you dont have the copper stuff just use regular untel you can find some..

Jess

A positive post:

Suppressor Care

While waiting for the paperwork to clear on my suppressor, I read everything I could find on the care and feeding of suppressors.

The manufacturer recommended buying a “strap” wrench to hold the tube while unscrewing the end-caps.  I did this.
The manufacture also recommended coating the end-cap threads with “never-seize”.

When I received the call from my dealer that he had the paperwork, I immediately rushed in, picked up the suppressor, and (on my way home) stopped at my brother’s farm and launched 50 rounds of Remington Target ammo through it.

Once I reached home, I decided that I needed to disassemble it….

Whoa…I had a terrible time getting the end caps off!
Once I finally got the end caps off (thanks to the strap wrench and the special end cap tool that I had purchased from the manufacturer.) I had quite a time getting the baffles out…they are a VERY tight fit!

I was more than a little surprised over the amount of carbon and soot, after only 50 rounds!

I proceeded to scrub every surface until they shined like a new penny, and then liberally coated all surfaces with gun oil (CLP), and upon reassembly used a liberal amount of never-seize on both end caps

My next outing, for the first 20 rounds (or so) the thing smoked like a 1952 Ford!  It was quiet, but damn it smoked!

Returning home after firing about 500 rounds…although the end caps came off quite easily, I discovered that my liberal coating of oil had turned to carbon!  Damned hard carbon!  I had an awful time getting it apart!

What I do now:
· Always liberally coat both end caps with never-seize.
· Scrub the hell out of the baffles inside and out, along with the inside of the tube.
· Spray the baffles and the inside of the tube with a dry lubricant (I use a product named “Poxy Lube”.  I’ve used it for years on my M11/9 and it works very well.)
· Make absolutely certain that the ends of the baffles are spotlessly clean (if there is even a bit of carbon on the ends of any baffles, the end caps do not seat tightly!)
· Shoot whatever I want through the can (although I tend to use only higher quality rounds.)
· Smile a lot.

That's why I think I'm gonna like the Outback.  Cleaning is not possible, not is it recommended...