hey guys. so iv finally finished building my p80 Glock 19..... USPS didn't take their time at all LOL.
I went to the range yesterday and I had all kinds problem.. failure to feed, failure to eject and double feed. OEM GEN 5 magazine.. yea it was a sh*t show (100 rounds of HELL)
the slide I have is
https://zaffiriprecision.com/product/zps-2-g19-slide-gen-3/
and all the internals of the slide OEM parts . apex trigger, 4LB trigger

my question is.. do I have to change the spring recoil weight ? because its ported slide so lighter than factory ? I'm running OEM recoil spring weight 18LB
or whats your take on guys?
thank you in advance

Hold it at a 45* angle. Pull the trigger and hold it down. Rack the slide and ease it forward. The slide should reset all they way. If it's not looking into what's catching it up and make sure the recoil spring is gtg.

Coffee is how warning, make sure it's cleared.

 The problems you describe are most likely the slide not coming far enough back due to your recoil spring
 being to strong and your slide being too light.. Try a 15lb or 13lb spring and I think your issues should
 be resolved as long as you don't limp wrist it. If you add a comp you will definitely need to use a 13lb
 spring or less.

Take out the recoil spring assembly, barrel and trigger components.
Reassemble slide and rack it a few times - slowly.

Does the slide move smoothly - back and forth?
If there is any spot where the slide seems like it is too tight or sticky, then that is your issue.

I have had several builds where the aftermarket slide grooves are slightly too small when combined with P80 parts.
They work fine on a stock Glock frame but not with the P80 rails.
They also can get cerakote in the grooves, making them a little sticky.

I have found re-working the slide grooves was better than working on the rails.
Take some 400 grit paper and figure out a way to polish up the interior surfaces of the grooves.
Work your way up to 2000 grit if you like.
It needs to be buttery smooth.

A lighter recoil spring in conjunction with making the slide fit properly may be necessary.

Whoa.... Let's back up a little.

FIRST TIME QUALITY

With a stripped slide how does the slide move along the rails on the frame?
Does it nose up/down?
Take the recoil spring and lay it in the dust cover?
Any clearance issues?

Do you have an optic on the slide? If so, does the extractor plunger move freely in it's channel? I have two slides from them, and both had burrs in the channel that had to be removed for the extractor to operate properly. If the screws holding the optic on are too long they can rub on the plunger and cause issues.

alright quick update, so I found different local gun smith and he did some trouble shooting and turned out its the "steel locking block rail system" the front one, is biting the slide and not let it cycle fully.
he said it needs milling to make it fit the slide. the cost is $100 and 3 weeks wait.

LOL

Place the frame upside down on a knife sharpening stone and level the rails. You can easily tell if you are doing it right by frequently checking your work and noting where material is coming off.

Do a YouTube search for MarineGunBuilder. He will show you The Way.

This video is a little... sleepy... but he does a good job of demonstrating how to use a diamond stone to even out the rails:

Yeah forget that "gunsmith".  This is easy.

Make sure slide to frame fit is smooth and loose.

Strip slide, check fit.  File, sand, stone where needed.

Automotive valve lapping compound works wonders.

BTW, OEM spring weight for the G19 is 19lb.

Here is a good thread on the Marine Gun Builder forum for basic trouble shooting. I wrote it myself. It is also on the Marin Gun Builder Blog.

Basic tips fro trouble shooting

A lot of issues with the Poly80 build can be fixed by making sure the channel is finished and polished 100% and also making sure that the front locking block rail is level to the frame and both front and back rails are also level to each other.

Finishing up the channel is a must. You would be surprised with all the people having issues because they did not finish the channel properly.

I’m a little late, but +1 on the channel. Post pics if you can. Lots of good info in this 200+ page thread.

ETA: This ones not perfect but it works. Got 2-3k rounds through it. Been meaning to clean it up.

Attached File
Attached File

The right side has a small lip I should remove, anything the spring can hang up on.

I cleaned it up just now with a flat file and a buffer wheel on the Dremel. My Dremel isn’t variable speed and is too fast. Too much time or pressure would start melting plastic and smoking. Attached File
Attached File

So he hones the rails before putting them in the frame. Doesn’t seem like a good idea to me, especially the rear one as much as it flexes when you squeeze it. You want to flatten the overall surface between the 2 rails. If you don’t have a stone that big you can use wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface.

Here is what you want the channel to look like.

Attached File