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Posted: 5/5/2020 8:33:49 PM EDT
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/performance-center-model-686-plus-0
 or https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/performance-center-pro-series-model-686-plus  one has non fluted cylinder and vent rib bbl & chrome hammer trigger. other has slab side bbl and fluted cyilinder & case harndend hammer/trigger. The latter is a smidge lighter w/ the fluted cylinder, I guess I am inclined towards it. THey are both PC tuned though right? |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 8:12:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Both pics are the same gun .
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Posted: 5/6/2020 8:22:37 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Both pics are the same gun . Also I tend to like fluted cylinders, the flutes come in handy if you have a twisty speed loader and your hands or the cylinder aren't perfectly clean (like right after you've fired it a bunch with Smokey reloads of old 2400). YMMV. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:23:47 AM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 5/6/2020 12:26:10 PM EDT
[#4]
sorry for my weak copypasta skills... hang on.
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Posted: 5/6/2020 12:31:01 PM EDT
[#5]
interesting. Thanks.
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Posted: 5/6/2020 12:35:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JSG: For the money, I would look at the SSR if you don't want the regular 686. 686 SSR This is interesting...actually not, I was wanting 5"+bbl & 7 shot, but that looks like a nice alternative especially if one is going to have an action job done. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 1:08:49 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted: This is interesting...actually not, I was wanting 5"+bbl & 7 shot, but that looks like a nice alternative especially if one is going to have an action job done. If you are going to pay for an action job why not just buy a plain standard model to start with? |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 2:26:32 PM EDT
[#8]
I have the 4" 6 shot 686SSR, and a 4" 627Pro and 5" 627PC, both 8 shot. I like the SSR best.
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Posted: 5/6/2020 5:53:24 PM EDT
[#9]
For me, the second one rocks, the first, not so much.
Almost like they threw everything at it, but just made a mess. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 6:08:25 PM EDT
[#10]
That top one looks like something Rossi would make . Fugly.
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Posted: 5/6/2020 6:48:18 PM EDT
[#11]
I'd buy a regular 686 (really a 586 because I like blued revolvers but understand the need for SS in wetter environments) and have the work done that I wanted by either myself (a lot of good info available online) or if over my head by Frank Glenn in Phoenix, but I like the look of round barrels and don't put much stock in Smith's current "custom" work.
Of the two I'd go fluted cylinder because after a few thousand reloads with dummy/real cartridges you will have the feel to index the cylinder to a round in the speedloader and do less "searching/fumbling" to hit the cylinder holes with the rounds, if you put your index finger on a loaded round. Plus, I'd prefer to keep the cylinder as light as possible for high volume DA shooting. I do like the vent rib tho... |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:31:36 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 80sgyrene: For me, the second one rocks, the first, not so much. Almost like they threw everything at it, but just made a mess. lol, as if designed by committee. Yeah, the fluted one is way better looking |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:32:18 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: If you are going to pay for an action job why not just buy a plain standard model to start with? maybe if you want the fancy looking tapered slab sided barrel. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:35:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JTMcC: I'd buy a regular 686 (really a 586 because I like blued revolvers but understand the need for SS in wetter environments) and have the work done that I wanted by either myself (a lot of good info available online) or if over my head by Frank Glenn in Phoenix, but I like the look of round barrels and don't put much stock in Smith's current "custom" work. Of the two I'd go fluted cylinder because after a few thousand reloads with dummy/real cartridges you will have the feel to index the cylinder to a round in the speedloader and do less "searching/fumbling" to hit the cylinder holes with the rounds, if you put your index finger on a loaded round. Plus, I'd prefer to keep the cylinder as light as possible for high volume DA shooting. I do like the vent rib tho... So, this is interesting. I read the the other some guy saying that a heavy N cylinders are better for DA shooting as once you get it going your finger can like "ride the momentum" or something like that? I also hears some discussion of DA shooting N frames being hard on the lockwoark w/ all that mass starting and stopping, but maybe that is only on old revolvers. But I notice the PC 9mm revolvers have Ti cylinders. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 10:38:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: So, this is interesting. I read the the other some guy saying that a heavy N cylinders are better for DA shooting as once you get it going your finger can like "ride the momentum" or something like that? I also hears some discussion of DA shooting N frames being hard on the lockwoark w/ all that mass starting and stopping, but maybe that is only on old revolvers. But I notice the PC 9mm revolvers have Ti cylinders. If you are talking a high volume gun almost all those guys have gone to lighter cylinders not heavy one. If you are really cranking on it the more weight you fight the quicker they seem to wear. That being said I’ve only know a few people personally to actually wear them out and they are people that put 20,000 rounds a year or even much more through them. Guys who shoot competitions throughout the year and occasionally shoot for fun and practice can easily have guns last damn near forever. Unless you are going to be really going at it I would just but whichever looks best to you. The best action jobs I’ve felt were always lighter cylinders and lightened hammers. |
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Posted: 5/7/2020 10:42:03 AM EDT
[#16]
I have shot tens of thousands of rounds in a 625 PC and thousands in a 686 SSR. While the recoil is obviously less in the 686 using 38 reloads, the lighter cylinder makes a big difference as well. All the mass of the big N frame cylinder causes issues and will cause slower splits than the lighter SSR cylinder. Lighter cylinder is better cylinder for splits.
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Posted: 5/7/2020 11:00:11 AM EDT
[#17]
i think the standard 686 looks better than those
i bought an older dash 4 and had the 6” barrel cut to 5” I love it  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/7/2020 11:32:30 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTomas: maybe if you want the fancy looking tapered slab sided barrel. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTomas: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: If you are going to pay for an action job why not just buy a plain standard model to start with? maybe if you want the fancy looking tapered slab sided barrel. Then I say the SSR. I cannot abide by 7 or 8 shot revolvers. Hell even my .22s are six shooters. I need to polish my 686 now. 
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Posted: 5/7/2020 2:30:45 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: If you are talking a high volume gun almost all those guys have gone to lighter cylinders not heavy one. If you are really cranking on it the more weight you fight the quicker they seem to wear. That being said I’ve only know a few people personally to actually wear them out and they are people that put 20,000 rounds a year or even much more through them. Guys who shoot competitions throughout the year and occasionally shoot for fun and practice can easily have guns last damn near forever. Unless you are going to be really going at it I would just but whichever looks best to you. The best action jobs I’ve felt were always lighter cylinders and lightened hammers. Thanks. |
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Posted: 5/7/2020 2:32:03 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JSG: I have shot tens of thousands of rounds in a 625 PC and thousands in a 686 SSR. While the recoil is obviously less in the 686 using 38 reloads, the lighter cylinder makes a big difference as well. All the mass of the big N frame cylinder causes issues and will cause slower splits than the lighter SSR cylinder. Lighter cylinder is better cylinder for splits. Thanks. So the 625 w/ those big bores is noticeably lighter than a 6 shot 686 cylinder then. |
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