I bought an SP101 3" recently and have found it to be accurate, beautifully constructed and just an absolute looker with some Altamont rubber grips with walnut inserts.  

My issue with the gun is that it has by far the worst single action cocking feel/grit/resistance of any revolver I own.  I have two taurus Revolvers, one a 200 dollar 38, that are way smoother and lighter.  The GP100 I have is wonderful, as are the two bigger Smiths- Single action cocking like butter on DA revolvers.

Cocking this thing is like opening an old pull-tab style can of Coors with one hand, gritty, unbelievable heavy.  Is this a lemon?  Actually firing it in single action is fine.  Double action trigger pull is very heavy, but reasonably smooth.  I don't want to have it modified since everything else I have is so much better bone stock.

Did you take it apart and clean it out? I don't know about current Ruger revolvers, but when I bought my GP100 about 10 years ago, then my SP101 a couple years later, the guns were absolutely FILTHY right out of the box. The insides were absolutely covered in grease, oil, dirt, chips and shavings. It was so bad that it seemed that Ruger was saving money on trash removal by dumping the floor sweepings inside the guns before shipping them out.

Also, on both of mine, quite a few of the trigger parts, especially the stamped parts, had burrs and rough edges. I ended up detail stripping both of them and GENTLY stoning all the parts and edges to smooth them out. It was really pretty simple, I just used the finer stones from my Lansky knife sharpening set. If you find burrs and/or rough edges and decide to go this route, BE CAREFUL and don't change any angles on any of the engagement surfaces or remove a lot of material, all you want to do is smooth, not grind. On both of my revolvers, this resulted in VERY SMOOTH triggers. I left the original springs in them, so they are heavier, but they are smoother than a lot of S&Ws I have shot.

If you are mechanically inclined, Ruger revolvers are pretty easy to detail strip for deep cleaning and maintenance. Just be careful, it is easy to launch some of the springs in the trigger group if you're not careful. If you don't think you can handle it, either see a gunsmith or call Ruger. I've never used their CS, but it is reputed to be excellent and they should take care of you.

Don't know if this works on Rugers but I've done it to a few all steel S&W and my Rossi 92 Rifle. Gets all the manufacturing gunk and lube out.

Hose out the action with non chlorinated brake clean.  Hit it with compressed air.   Do it a few more times. Til the runoff liquid is clear.  Then aerosol lube.    
On S&W I remove side plate, on the lever action I just open the action with the lever, remove no screws.

I would take off any stocks, grips etc. Wear eye pro and probably gloves too.

After all that I work the action alot.  On hammered guns I'll cock it. Then press the hammer forward while dry firing a few times. Maybe a half dozen times.  Kinda forces all the parts together for some one on one love.  

Appreciate both replies.  I’m not quite the mechanic for disassembling so I’ll try to expose and flush with some aerosol gun scrubber, then lubricate and work on breaking in.  Love the little revolver otherwise

The way the cylinder is mounted on the crane is a bit different than on the other Ruger DA revolvers, meaning it is not captured but can be slid off once the crane is removed from the gun.
What I have found with mine is if I shoot very dirty or sooty loads that gunk can get in between the cylinder and crane and into the bearing surface for the cylinder. It makes the action feel really gritty and in some instances can bind the cylinder up to the point where you need to rotate it by hand in order to cock the gun.

Disassemble the gun per the manual, remove the cylinder from the crane and clean the crap out of it. You need to manually hold the ejector star to the rear to get to the bottom.
Once clean, use grease, not oil between the crane and cylinder. The thicker grease helps keep the soot and crud out.

If it's new, yeah it needs to be worked to smooth out, unless you want to get it a fluff n buff.

Also, put in some lighter springs from Wolff.  I did that on both my SP101 hammerless and my Redhawk.  Trigger pull instantly better!  And that's a pretty easy job on both guns.  The Redhawk even had some of the needed 'tools' right inside the grip itself!

No Ruger should have what you described.  I'd clean it as recommended and try again as it sounds like something got in it.  If it's still gritty contact Ruger and have it repaired.  I've had several Ruger double action revolvers and what you described is not normal.

I was going to post almost word for word what Brandi posted.