...for me at least.

Decided to shoot my Springfield 1911, since it's been a while.

Shot 200 grain LSWC handloads- no issues. Switched to 230 grain LRN. First mag shot fine; second round out of the 2nd mag, the gun locked up and was a divorcing bitch to unlock.

When I got it apart, I discovered this:
Attached File


I have a 16# spring in the gun and figure it should handle mid-range 230 lead loads with aplomb, but the gun does have a bunch of rounds down that barrel (I'm guessing around 8K).

I do have another barrel that is fitted with a matching bushing and link, so I'm not outta the 1911 game.

I'm gonna change the recoil and main spring just to be on the safe side. Since I don't remember what weight the mainspring is, I'm gonna have to get a Wulff kit and tinker.

Well, that's not gonna buff out.

Had that happen with an old 1927 Argentine I once owned.  Original barrel gave out in the same manner, only the pistol didn't lock up.
The slide almost slid completely off the rails going forward after it failed

This is not a recoil spring problem.  This is a barrel fitting problem.  It is often due to the barrel link stopping the barrel rather than the frame's vertical impact surface.  The picture below shows a different barrel that was also improperly fit and the results.

That's both/either a link issue as mentioned prior and/or a lack of VIS as has been seen on Springfield guns before.

VIS?

For the 'smiths on here- would a too tall link cause this or a short one? Anyone have an idea what the nominal length should be?

The gun locks ups tight with the new barrel and did so with the one in the pic- at least before it broke.

Vertical Impact Surface is the area that forms the front wall of the barrel bed.  The rear of the lower barrel lugs (feet) is supposed to contact this area as the barrel moves rearward in order to stop its rearward movement.  The barrel link's job is to pull the barrel down out of engagement with the slide lugs.  The link should not be stopping the rearward movement of the barrel.

A simple way to tell if the link is stopping the rearward movement of the barrel is to insert the slide stop as per normal but leave it unlocked (the follower engagement lug end of the slide stop hanging down in the frame).  Then, while pushing the muzzle hard against a solid object attempt to rotate the slide slide stop to and fro.  It should easily flop back and forth with no hesitation.  If it does not, this means the barrel link and the slide stop cross pin are in contact with one another which indicates the lower barrel lugs are not in contact with the VIS.  This is not the way the pistol was designed to operate and will eventually result in a broken barrel link or broken lower barrel lugs.

It's not the in-battery lock up that is the issue.  It's the relationship between the barrel and the VIS when the barrel is fully linked down.  Get thee to a real 1911 'smith to get this problem resolved.

Below is a picture showing the VIS (Vertical Impact Surface) which the lower barrel lugs must contact before there is any tension on the barrel link.  This specific VIS has been relieved (circular area) to prevent contact with the thinner lower area of the lugs which could result in damage.

Buy a Kart Exact fit replacement barrel and you will learn a lot about barrel fit, and have a much more accurate pistol than before.

Thanks for this. I just checked the new barrel and the link flops very freely and will almost fall out, so I'm gonna assume everything is good.
Unfortunately, the only 'smith around here that was 1911 smart has passed away.

Coat the rear of the barrel feet in soot, as well as the underside of the chamber behind the barrel feet.

Assemble gun without recoil spring.

Hold the gun a quarter to half inch out of battery on your thigh etc.

Smack the muzzle with a nylon mallet a few times.

Disassemble gun.

Soot should removed from the back of the feet, preferably the upper half. Soot should not be removed from the underside of the barrel.