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User Panel
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Posted: 5/13/2023 6:51:42 PM EDT
[#1]
I like the thumbscrew. You can lock down the light on the rail better.
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Posted: 5/13/2023 6:55:39 PM EDT
[#2]
I’ve had the “a” quick release come off of 2 different firearms.
Now I only buy “b” thumbscrew style. Zero issues with them. |
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Posted: 5/13/2023 8:35:10 PM EDT
[#3]
You want the thumbscrew version.
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Posted: 5/13/2023 8:37:08 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You want the thumbscrew version. Why? |
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Posted: 5/13/2023 8:46:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why? Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. |
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Posted: 5/13/2023 8:48:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why? Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. Seems about right. Thanks |
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Posted: 5/13/2023 8:54:36 PM EDT
[#7]
I prefer the thumbscrew (B) version. Solid lock up, but it's meant to live on my handgun.
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Posted: 5/14/2023 12:24:23 AM EDT
[#8]
Thanks everybody, that's exactly what I was looking for.
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Posted: 5/14/2023 4:53:31 PM EDT
[#9]
Man, I’ve got two “A” style x300u in my safe. There is no way that those are “just popping off” if they are installed and fully locked into the slot.
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Posted: 5/14/2023 5:13:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why? Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. I’ve never had an A version pop off and I’ve been using them extensively for at least a decade (going back to the X200). I could see it happening if you don’t use the right mount insert, as with the wrong one, it won’t lock into the cross slot. That’s user error, though. There’s a reason they sell every A model with all of the inserts. Had the thumbscrew head snap off on the lone B model I’ve owned. Easy replacement with a big box store socket head cap screw in the correct size, but still, fairly annoying. |
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Posted: 5/14/2023 6:16:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve never had an A version pop off and I’ve been using them extensively for at least a decade (going back to the X200). I could see it happening if you don’t use the right mount insert, as with the wrong one, it won’t lock into the cross slot. That’s user error, though. There’s a reason they sell every A model with all of the inserts. Had the thumbscrew head snap off on the lone B model I’ve owned. Easy replacement with a big box store socket head cap screw in the correct size, but still, fairly annoying. I assumed these lights that are popping off were utilizing the wrong combo of parts and pieces. |
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Posted: 5/14/2023 8:41:38 PM EDT
[#12]
I’ve been using SF lights since before the first x200 came out. Been using the x200/300 since they came out. I’ve never had the quick detach A type pop off. Can’t say the same about the thumbscrew type lights.
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Posted: 5/15/2023 12:24:42 PM EDT
[#13]
In the early release of the X200, it was a two screw version per rail. They are now three screws per rail. This solved the problem with loosening. I’ve also had a version A with the correct adapter and three screw version come off, but that was when I used the light and gun as a distraction technique on a felon’s head.
I’ve also seen someone roll over their light when getting up from prone and broke off a rail during swat training. Version B eliminates this issue, unless you over tighten, then it breaks at the shank. Call Surefire CS and they’ll send you a new screw. |
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Posted: 5/26/2023 11:32:51 AM EDT
[#14]
I like the A type better. Easy to switch around if you have multiple guns/holsters setups.
Never had any issues with them coming loose. |
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Posted: 5/26/2023 8:02:37 PM EDT
[#15]
I prefer the A for Glocks and B for metal framed pistols.
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Posted: 5/27/2023 11:49:19 AM EDT
[#16]
no issues with the A type in thousands of rounds between glocks, HK, and Sigs
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Posted: 5/27/2023 1:55:58 PM EDT
[#17]
The X300U-A will not randomly fly off unless the rail key is not seated in the handgun rail; that's a user problem. I carried the original 500 lumen X300U-A on duty for several years and thousands of rounds of .40 S&W. There are some frames it does not fit particularly well on, SIG P320 X frames come to mind. If you have a Glock or an in-spec picatinny rail it will fit tight and is not going anywhere. In my experience the M&P M2.0, Glock Gen 4 and Gen 5, SIG M17 frames, and just about any in-spec rail on an AR15 will accept the A version without issue.
That said I recently bought a current production X300U-B. The mounting system was good, but the light itself was just okay. The current switches are a downgrade from the originals; shorter and very stiff. The 1000 lumen version is more flood than spot and lacks the punch of the older 500 and 600 lumen versions. I ended up selling it and have standardized on the TLR-1HL for my personal guns as it's current issue. The TLR-1HL is over $100 cheaper, has almost double the candela of the 1000 lumen X300U-A, a variety of keys for different firearms to customize light placement, and the switches are just right in size and tension. Additionally if you want an FDE or Coyote Brown light the finish on the TLR-1HL is anodized versus cerakote on the FDE X300U-A. The biggest negative to the TLR-1HL is the battery door is not the strongest and I would suggest a spare. Streamlight will replace them for free. |
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Posted: 5/27/2023 7:31:13 PM EDT
[#18]
jhon,
the new X300 Turbo has massive amount of candelas. Just got mine and it's much better than the previous X300 1000 lumen series imo. Give it a try. |
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Posted: 5/29/2023 1:01:34 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve been using SF lights since before the first x200 came out. Been using the x200/300 since they came out. I’ve never had the quick detach A type pop off. Can’t say the same about the thumbscrew type lights. |
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Posted: 6/3/2023 7:07:22 AM EDT
[#20]
I’ve got thousands of rounds on a couple G17.5 with A model Surefires without issue.
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Posted: 6/3/2023 7:28:43 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: jhon, the new X300 Turbo has massive amount of candelas. Just got mine and it's much better than the previous X300 1000 lumen series imo. Give it a try.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/13/2023 7:37:26 AM EDT
[#22]
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Posted: 8/13/2023 8:45:11 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I assumed these lights that are popping off were utilizing the wrong combo of parts and pieces. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’ve never had an A version pop off and I’ve been using them extensively for at least a decade (going back to the X200). I could see it happening if you don’t use the right mount insert, as with the wrong one, it won’t lock into the cross slot. That’s user error, though. There’s a reason they sell every A model with all of the inserts. Had the thumbscrew head snap off on the lone B model I’ve owned. Easy replacement with a big box store socket head cap screw in the correct size, but still, fairly annoying. I assumed these lights that are popping off were utilizing the wrong combo of parts and pieces. This I'll the the A version all day every day |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 3:41:12 AM EDT
[#24]
I prefer the A version because it's easier to get on and off to change batteries, but I have a couple Bs because they fit better on pistols with skinnier rails like Berettas.
ETA: Quoted: Well the Type A can be filed a little for a nice tight fit. Either are wonderful lights. https://i.ibb.co/mzhtXxG/IMG-5719.jpg upload I'm not sure how you got that to fit without a ton of side to side slop like I had when I tried one of my X300U-As on my M9A4. Did you shim it? |
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Posted: 8/15/2023 6:12:03 AM EDT
[#25]
The problem with the thumbscrew is that most holster places don't make one for it from my experience. Henceforth, I went with the other version.
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Posted: 8/15/2023 9:05:54 AM EDT
[#26]
At this point, you should be buying the turbo instead of the ultra if you insist on sticking with surefire. Candela is more important than lumens for WMLs (I'd make the same argument for most handheld tasks), and surefire is very late to the party but they finally caught up. As to which attachment method, the thumbscrew version seems to be more popular. This is ironic because so many people complain about Streamlight having a thumbscrew. I've seen both fly off the end of guns in LE classes. I don't have any knowledge of the condition of those guns and how often they were conducting maintenance and inspections. I do know I've never had my tlr-1hl fly off, but I check my equipment before every shift, class, or any time I'm about to put the gun on. I've also never seen the A model fly off. I have seen the plastic on them cracked when people overtightened them during installation because they didn't read the instructions.
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Posted: 8/15/2023 5:22:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: At this point, you should be buying the turbo instead of the ultra if you insist on sticking with surefire. Candela is more important than lumens for WMLs (I'd make the same argument for most handheld tasks), and surefire is very late to the party but they finally caught up. As to which attachment method, the thumbscrew version seems to be more popular. This is ironic because so many people complain about Streamlight having a thumbscrew. I've seen both fly off the end of guns in LE classes. I don't have any knowledge of the condition of those guns and how often they were conducting maintenance and inspections. I do know I've never had my tlr-1hl fly off, but I check my equipment before every shift, class, or any time I'm about to put the gun on. I've also never seen the A model fly off. I have seen the plastic on them cracked when people overtightened them during installation because they didn't read the instructions. Meh, the ultras have a great amount of spill and near brightness. They’re different tools, and honestly if not working around headlights/traffic stops and don’t need as distance throw I prefer the ultra |
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Posted: 8/16/2023 8:29:14 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Meh, the ultras have a great amount of spill and near brightness. They’re different tools, and honestly if not working around headlights/traffic stops and don’t need as distance throw I prefer the ultra The purpose of candela on a pistol mounted light isn't to see stuff farther away...it's to punch through photonic barriers like streetlights and headlights. Just like LE, a lot of defensive handgun use happens around vehicles. Most people never find themselves in truly dark environments and we have to get PID in adverse lighting conditions. The Turbo provides the necessary candela while still having plenty of spill... even though spill isn't all that important since you're not scanning with a WML. That's what handheld lights are for. I'll give a non-gun related (well potentially it is) but relevant example that's a regular occurrence for me with my dopey ass GSD : You're in your backyard at night letting your dog out. There's a floodlight on the far corner of your house that illuminates most of your backyard except the two far corners. Your dog takes off after something it smelled or heard in one of those corners. You can put your hand up to block the light and kind of see what your dog is up to in that corner and see what you think is a rabbit. Or, you can shine a flashlight that has enough candela to punch through that light and realize that what you thought was a rabbit is actually an unusually white skunk that's about to spray your dog or a possum that's about to totally rock your dog's world and cost you a lot of money at the vet. |
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Posted: 9/13/2023 3:17:07 AM EDT
[#29]
If it’s going on a Glock I only buy the A model ( locking bar)
If it’s going on a metal framed gun or 12 o’clock AR rail I but the B model ( thumb screw) If there’s play in the A model cut a piece I’d bicycle inner tube rubber about 1/2 inch by 1.5 Slip it up behind the light as you slide it back and the rubber will wedge between the light and trigger guard to illuminate any wiggle. Puts less stress on polymer frames using the bar. If you are using the B model torque it to spec with a coin and witness mark it. They do loosen with use and thousands of rounds so checking your witness marks routinely is a thing. Been using Surefire stuff on and off duty for 30 years and visited their facility in CA. Solid gear.  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/21/2023 8:38:13 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve never had an A version pop off and I’ve been using them extensively for at least a decade (going back to the X200). I could see it happening if you don’t use the right mount insert, as with the wrong one, it won’t lock into the cross slot. That’s user error, though. There’s a reason they sell every A model with all of the inserts. Had the thumbscrew head snap off on the lone B model I’ve owned. Easy replacement with a big box store socket head cap screw in the correct size, but still, fairly annoying. I've only had my A pop off when I haven't pressed it far enough back to fully catch. Its really only an issue on my P07 to get it back far enough. |
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Posted: 9/23/2023 6:10:41 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The X300U-A will not randomly fly off unless the rail key is not seated in the handgun rail; that's a user problem. I carried the original 500 lumen X300U-A on duty for several years and thousands of rounds of .40 S&W. There are some frames it does not fit particularly well on, SIG P320 X frames come to mind. If you have a Glock or an in-spec picatinny rail it will fit tight and is not going anywhere. In my experience the M&P M2.0, Glock Gen 4 and Gen 5, SIG M17 frames, and just about any in-spec rail on an AR15 will accept the A version without issue. That said I recently bought a current production X300U-B. The mounting system was good, but the light itself was just okay. The current switches are a downgrade from the originals; shorter and very stiff. The 1000 lumen version is more flood than spot and lacks the punch of the older 500 and 600 lumen versions. I ended up selling it and have standardized on the TLR-1HL for my personal guns as it's current issue. The TLR-1HL is over $100 cheaper, has almost double the candela of the 1000 lumen X300U-A, a variety of keys for different firearms to customize light placement, and the switches are just right in size and tension. Additionally if you want an FDE or Coyote Brown light the finish on the TLR-1HL is anodized versus cerakote on the FDE X300U-A. The biggest negative to the TLR-1HL is the battery door is not the strongest and I would suggest a spare. Streamlight will replace them for free. First time I've heard of the weapon light involuntarily dismounting (lol). I have thousands of FMJ and HP rounds through my Gen 3 Glock 19 with the exact A-model and it's tighter than a newborn goat's asshole in Afghanistan. The only Surefire product I've had yeeted relating to these items was their protective lens cover.. though I suspect that's because the actual weapon light protruded further from the barrel due to its compact size. |
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Posted: 9/23/2023 6:22:02 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why? Because the A version tends to pop off. I have heard it happen to countless people. There is no downside to getting the B version. That’s backwards. The A version is self tightening. The B version screw loosens due to frame flex on Glocks and falls off. |
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Posted: 9/25/2023 7:00:27 PM EDT
[#33]
I have had the A Model get loose on my Glock 19. It also started causing the light to point downwards. It got so bad that I had to switch to the B Model, which has had no problems.
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Posted: 9/25/2023 9:16:58 PM EDT
[#34]
How could an A model get loose? You mean the mounting plate screws came loose? For it to point down, the frame of the pistol would have to break or the light would have to fall apart after losing multiple screws.
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Posted: 9/27/2023 9:13:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: At this point, you should be buying the turbo instead of the ultra if you insist on sticking with surefire. Candela is more important than lumens for WMLs (I'd make the same argument for most handheld tasks), and surefire is very late to the party but they finally caught up. As to which attachment method, the thumbscrew version seems to be more popular. This is ironic because so many people complain about Streamlight having a thumbscrew. I've seen both fly off the end of guns in LE classes. I don't have any knowledge of the condition of those guns and how often they were conducting maintenance and inspections. I do know I've never had my tlr-1hl fly off, but I check my equipment before every shift, class, or any time I'm about to put the gun on. I've also never seen the A model fly off. I have seen the plastic on them cracked when people overtightened them during installation because they didn't read the instructions. While the Turbos aren’t nearly as bad as the Modlites for lack of spill, the Ultras still have a better beam pattern for a handgun. |
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Posted: 9/28/2023 8:35:58 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: While the Turbos aren’t nearly as bad as the Modlites for lack of spill, the Ultras still have a better beam pattern for a handgun. I don't want a bunch of spill on a WML. I want candela to punch through photonic barriers. We don't live in a totally dark world and we have handheld lights for searching. I've never had my gun on someone at night and wished for less hotspot and more spill to see stuff that's not who I have a gun pointed at better. And FWIW, the x300 turbo is almost identical to the PLHv2 head. Both have less candela with more spill and a weaker hotspot than the OKW head. |
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Posted: 11/2/2023 5:25:19 PM EDT
[#37]
Does anyone here prefer the 600-lumen model to the 1,000-lumen one for indoors? In other words, is the 1,000-lumen model too much for indoors? Feel free to tell me I'm crazy for even posing the question.
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Posted: 11/2/2023 10:19:31 PM EDT
[#38]
There is no such thing as too much.
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Posted: 11/3/2023 12:25:09 AM EDT
[#39]
I’ve not had issues with 1000 lumen X300 or Turbos indoors, even when searching homes with high gloss painted walls.
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Posted: 11/3/2023 5:31:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted: There is no such thing as too much. Quoted: I’ve not had issues with 1000 lumen X300 or Turbos indoors, even when searching homes with high gloss painted walls. Thank you, gentlemen. 
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Posted: 11/4/2023 8:43:45 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone here prefer the 600-lumen model to the 1,000-lumen one for indoors? In other words, is the 1,000-lumen model too much for indoors? Feel free to tell me I'm crazy for even posing the question. @abnk I’ve got the 600 & 1000 lumen version. The 1000 seems to have more spill & the 600 more throw. That’s my unscientific opinion. I played with it this fall at a buddies house illuminating targets at 50-100 yds. |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 8:57:06 AM EDT
[#42]
I've got an X300V with the 'quick detach' and it takes an act of sheer willpower to pull that thing off to replace the batteries. Very tight lockup. I'd be more worried about a thumb screw eventually working loose but that's me.
Eta on a Glock 45. Rattlecan also probably keeps things locked up tight. |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 9:08:37 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've got an X300V with the 'quick detach' and it takes an act of sheer willpower to pull that thing off to replace the batteries. Very tight lockup. I'd be more worried about a thumb screw eventually working loose but that's me. IME that all depends on rail width. The A models fit super tight on my FNs and Centurion rails, so I prefer them for those applications. On CZs they only grab the front of the rail tightly, and Beretta rails are skinny so I have Bs on those. I wouldn't overthink any of this though; the V, U, T, and original X300s are all very good handgun lights with good and well deserved reputations. If you want a pistol format light to put on a rifle, then I'd only go with the Turbo though. |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 9:24:44 AM EDT
[#44]
the thumbscrew version is built like a tank and can mount to anything even rifle rails. the plastic quick mount type is best if only used on pistols and has alot of flex especially if not mounted up against a pistols trigger guard properly. the thumbscrew version puts metal on metal rub marks on my high end pistols and the all plastic mount model does not.
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Posted: 11/4/2023 9:27:50 AM EDT
[#45]
also the plastic quick release model goes on and off instantly where the thumbscrew model takes about a minute or more to locate a coin or screw driver handy and remove. that makes a huge difference to me ive noticed if you use them alot. if you have alot of guns get 1 of each.
they come in 600 lumens and 1000 lumen models. if 1000 lumens they are marked 1000 lumens on bottom. if 600 lumen early model they are unmarked on body as to how many lumens. the 600 lumens might last longer if taking a class or using alot where the 1000 lumens has more light so theres another trade off to consider. its best to remove batteries if storing mounted to gun in soft case as it can click on when you dont realize it and drain batteries. might even be a fire hazard especially on the 1000 lumen model so be careful. older production have weaker levers and recent production seem much stiffer to the point where its almost annoying. theres a neat upgrade to stop accidental activation made by philster. |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 9:32:50 AM EDT
[#46]
I've 6-7 SF X300s
Clocks get the X300U-A with lock bar and ARs get the X300 Turbo with thumb screw Thousands upon thousands of rounds on both without issue  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 12:14:52 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @abnk I’ve got the 600 & 1000 lumen version. The 1000 seems to have more spill & the 600 more throw. That’s my unscientific opinion. I played with it this fall at a buddies house illuminating targets at 50-100 yds. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Does anyone here prefer the 600-lumen model to the 1,000-lumen one for indoors? In other words, is the 1,000-lumen model too much for indoors? Feel free to tell me I'm crazy for even posing the question. @abnk I’ve got the 600 & 1000 lumen version. The 1000 seems to have more spill & the 600 more throw. That’s my unscientific opinion. I played with it this fall at a buddies house illuminating targets at 50-100 yds. Thank you. I would not have expected that. |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 1:39:22 PM EDT
[#48]
I found that the -A model’s Picatinny key did not work well with my SIG P320 or Wilson Combat rails. A little hard to explain - I would depress the levers on the -A and slide it onto the rail, but the tolerances were too tight to allow the key to snap down into the notch in the rail. I exchanged it for a -B, which is easy to install and locks up perfectly.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 11/4/2023 8:21:30 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I found that the -A model’s Picatinny key did not work well with my SIG P320 or Wilson Combat rails. A little hard to explain - I would depress the levers on the -A and slide it onto the rail, but the tolerances were too tight to allow the key to snap down into the notch in the rail. I exchanged it for a -B, which is easy to install and locks up perfectly. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/27888/M17_Multicam_02_jpg-2212808.JPG Yeah I wish either SF or a third party would make a key that works with the SF X300 lights. If I had a 3D printer I’d make them. Right now the light sits so far forward on the P320 that it can be hard to reach the switches. It can go back further with a better key.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/6/2023 2:51:31 PM EDT
[#50]
PSA is selling the B for $229 today. I should really unsubscribe from their daily deals.
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