Brand new RIA Tac Ultra FS HC 9mm, purchased about 2-3 weeks ago. I have put exactly 150 rounds of blazer 115gr fmj through it.
I had it apart and noticed some (possibly?) abnormal wear on the guide rod.
There are two spots, opposite of each other, where the slide impacts it, and it is starting to peen it over.
I checked my two other 1911's (both 45's). One is a magnum research (BUL armory) that is probably a few months old and has about the same round count. The other is a older taurus (don't judge, it shoots great) that I got used and has probably thousands of rounds through it.
Neither one have any wear anything like the new RIA.  The guide rods show pretty much zero wear.

It seems the slide has a rounded relief where the marks are, where my other two are more squared off, allowing clearance for the guide rod.
I will try to attach a few pictures showing the areas.
Just want to know if this is something to be worried about or not.
I feel like it is going to do one of two things. Either continue to get worse until it starts causing issues. OR, it will get to a point and the wear will stop and not get any worse.
I tried to take the best pictures my phone would let me. Still, they are not the best or most clear, but hopefully you can see it good enough. It actually looks worse in person than it does on camera.

I would file off the burr and round those edges to match the slide, and call it good enough.

RIA has fast and friendly customer service.

My RIA TAC 9mm has several thousand problem free rounds thru it and is one of my favorites.

I like working on little issues like this. Good feeling when you take care of it yourself.

True that!

Personally, I’d first shoot the hell out of it, and really get that wear in where it is doing that, then if need be, a little file work to clean it up a little. Some heavy shooting should shoot out the friction points, a little file work after will clean it up and make it pretty, but i think the gun just wants to be shot and worn in. Just my IMHO. But it doesn’t look like a “legitimate problem”, it just wants to wear in. Anyone else have similiar thoughts?

Would a Shock-Buff eliminate any wear here? I know those are somewhat controversial but I’m still running them in my 1911’s that get a lot of use

It will only deform to a certain point and then stop. Doesn't look like it's in a place that could be an issue luckily.

I would be tempted to put in a new recoil spring, in case the current one is a bit soft. Looks like the slide is coming back and hitting pretty hard, but i could be wrong.

Though you'd think a new gun would have the right spring in it to start.

I sent a email with pictures to RIA several days ago. I will update if they ever reply.
If not, then I will fix it myself.
I was doing some barrel work on the mill yesterday and got looking through my end mills and I have a couple smaller ones that would work perfectly for opening up the radius a little on the slide.

First Response NAILED IT.

File it off on the edges where its contacting.

Dont leave it and shoot it, there is zero reason to beat the gun into submission. thats hard on everything.

A recoil spring is not the answer.

Fix your PROBLEM, which is interference between the guiderod and the slide.

BTW normally it contacts on the upper part where it hits the barrel lugs, normally you end up grinding that off to clear.

This is also one of the reasons Full Length Guide rods are shunned by some...

Use a file,  file off the edges and your problem is solved. Do a search for something like "1911 guide rod modification/interference" youll find this is nothing new.

Bleh, buy a quality non MIM multipiece one that is sized correctly.

Since it is a brand new gun, I wanted to give a little time for the manufacturer to respond and offer to fix it.
If no dice from them, I will be fixing it myself.
I will also pick up a new guide rod.

if your going to buy another guide rod anyway I dont see the point.

Ill warn you up front, I just put two EGWs in IIRC they both came relieved a bit, i had to relieve one just a little more. Dont ASSUME because you buy another one it wont need relief somewhere....  

People used to working on modern day plastic wonders have a real problem with the next statement because they dont understand WHY.

There is VERY damn little on a 1911 that doesnt require or have the possibility of requiring some level of fitting. SOMETIMES you drop in a part and it functions, but it may still need fitting (an extractor is a great example, may work but it may be too long and be hitting the barrel or the case head in front of the groove or it may have a claw thats too long, or it may not have the correct spacing between the claw and breechface or a combination of all, it may "work" 97-99%" but its not RIGHT. Guess what, a FLGR is another and you may be OK letting the pistol BEAT IT into submission but I dont think I need to explain why Metal to Metal contact to the point of peening surfaces is not a good thing.

Finally got a response from them and they said their gunsmith looked at it and said "everything looks fine"

So I will fix it myself.