User Panel
[#1]
Quoted: I didn't even finish a box . Once I saw the jam, I knew from reading posts on here that I was running into the same issue everyone else has that bought this thing. I probably haven't bought as many handguns as you, but in the 10 or so that I've had, the only one that didn't work out of the box without a break in was my Kimber 1911. That one I had to send back to Kimber twice before it finally got sorted out. I like the 10MM so I don't want to give up on this just yet. Plus I'd hate to sell it and see the same issue with the SIG P320 10MM. Would it be better to buy the .45 ACP S&W M&P Wolff guide rod, and 24lbs. Wolff .45 ACP spring? Or should I try the JSMI spring? Which specific spring did you select? View Quote I’m using the Wolff M&P45 uncaptured guide rod (exact fit for the M&P 4.6”) and I tried 20, 22 and 24 # springs. I settled on the 22# as best all around. Obviously you might want a different spring. The uncaptured rod makes it very fast to swap springs. I don’t have any experience with the JSMI soring, but I’ve been extremely pleased with the Wolff setup. |
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[#2]
Quoted: I’m using the Wolff M&P45 uncaptured guide rod (exact fit for the M&P 4.6”) and I tried 20, 22 and 24 # springs. I settled on the 22# as best all around. Obviously you might want a different spring. The uncaptured rod makes it very fast to swap springs. I don’t have any experience with the JSMI soring, but I’ve been extremely pleased with the Wolff setup. View Quote Than you, I appreciate the help. I just ordered a guide rod, and two springs. One at 24lbs. and another at 22lbs. I think based what I read on here that should resolve any issues. |
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[#3]
Quoted: I’m using the Wolff M&P45 uncaptured guide rod (exact fit for the M&P 4.6”) and I tried 20, 22 and 24 # springs. I settled on the 22# as best all around. Obviously you might want a different spring. The uncaptured rod makes it very fast to swap springs. I don’t have any experience with the JSMI soring, but I’ve been extremely pleased with the Wolff setup. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I didn't even finish a box . Once I saw the jam, I knew from reading posts on here that I was running into the same issue everyone else has that bought this thing. I probably haven't bought as many handguns as you, but in the 10 or so that I've had, the only one that didn't work out of the box without a break in was my Kimber 1911. That one I had to send back to Kimber twice before it finally got sorted out. I like the 10MM so I don't want to give up on this just yet. Plus I'd hate to sell it and see the same issue with the SIG P320 10MM. Would it be better to buy the .45 ACP S&W M&P Wolff guide rod, and 24lbs. Wolff .45 ACP spring? Or should I try the JSMI spring? Which specific spring did you select? I’m using the Wolff M&P45 uncaptured guide rod (exact fit for the M&P 4.6”) and I tried 20, 22 and 24 # springs. I settled on the 22# as best all around. Obviously you might want a different spring. The uncaptured rod makes it very fast to swap springs. I don’t have any experience with the JSMI soring, but I’ve been extremely pleased with the Wolff setup. That's what I did, haven't had a chance to try them yet. Maybe a stupid question but once you take the springs out of the package is there a way to tell them apart? |
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[#4]
Quoted: That's what I did, haven't had a chance to try them yet. Maybe a stupid question but once you take the springs out of the package is there a way to tell them apart? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I didn't even finish a box . Once I saw the jam, I knew from reading posts on here that I was running into the same issue everyone else has that bought this thing. I probably haven't bought as many handguns as you, but in the 10 or so that I've had, the only one that didn't work out of the box without a break in was my Kimber 1911. That one I had to send back to Kimber twice before it finally got sorted out. I like the 10MM so I don't want to give up on this just yet. Plus I'd hate to sell it and see the same issue with the SIG P320 10MM. Would it be better to buy the .45 ACP S&W M&P Wolff guide rod, and 24lbs. Wolff .45 ACP spring? Or should I try the JSMI spring? Which specific spring did you select? I’m using the Wolff M&P45 uncaptured guide rod (exact fit for the M&P 4.6”) and I tried 20, 22 and 24 # springs. I settled on the 22# as best all around. Obviously you might want a different spring. The uncaptured rod makes it very fast to swap springs. I don’t have any experience with the JSMI soring, but I’ve been extremely pleased with the Wolff setup. That's what I did, haven't had a chance to try them yet. Maybe a stupid question but once you take the springs out of the package is there a way to tell them apart? Not a dumb question. Visually, no. The sidings look identical. I haven’t counted coils. What I did was keep a labeled ziploc for each spring. Whichever bag is empty, that’s the doting one the gun. I’ve considered trying to figure out sone way to use paint as a visual marker. |
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[#5]
Quoted: I didn't even finish a box . Once I saw the jam, I knew from reading posts on here that I was running into the same issue everyone else has that bought this thing. I probably haven't bought as many handguns as you, but in the 10 or so that I've had, the only one that didn't work out of the box without a break in was my Kimber 1911. That one I had to send back to Kimber twice before it finally got sorted out. I like the 10MM so I don't want to give up on this just yet. Plus I'd hate to sell it and see the same issue with the SIG P320 10MM. Would it be better to buy the .45 ACP S&W M&P Wolff guide rod, and 24lbs. Wolff .45 ACP spring? Or should I try the JSMI spring? Which specific spring did you select? View Quote I'm sorry that was a bit harsh. I got the spring I think at midway I'll look in a bit. IsmI spring. It's a flat wavy type. Took the factory rod and unscrewed the retainer screw and switched in the 24lb. As far as 10mm s that I have sent in, yeah my Kimber for full auto function and Dan Wesson for the slide seizing to the frame and I still have issues with that Dan. Same handloads in all my 10s I have the m&p 45 2.0 as well and I am running 45 super out of it with a Carver Custom comp and their heavy spring and rod. Eta: Midway number 793205. It's actually a Glock spring but it fit. ismi brand |
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[#6]
Quoted: @BigBurkeyBoy Wolff has springs and uncaptured recoil rods HERE The M&P 10mm 4.6” is internally compatible with M&P 45 parts. This is what I’m using in my 4.6” View Quote Exact same setup I’m using with a 22 pound spring. Have had zero issues with up to 8.5 grains of Longshot with 180 grain pills. This load is getting up there but not crazy |
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[#7]
Trying to remove the grittiness from the first stage of the trigger pull. Dry firing has helped a little. I pulled the striker block, which was nicely machined, and polished the hell out of it, heavily lubed it and reinstalled, no change. Also polished the top of the trigger bar, no change. Has anyone had success?
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[#8]
Quoted: Trying to remove the grittiness from the first stage of the trigger pull. Dry firing has helped a little. I pulled the disconnector, which was nicely machined, and polished the hell out of it, heavily lubed it and reinstalled, no change. Also polished the top of the trigger bar, no change. Has anyone had success? View Quote I had some success by polishing the inside of the slide where the striker block travels. It was pretty rough in mine. |
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[#9]
Quoted: I had some success by polishing the inside of the slide where the striker block travels. It was pretty rough in mine. View Quote Ah, I said disconnector and meant striker block in my post. Will edit. Ok, I examined my striker block channel when I had it out, all looked well, but will reinspect. Installing a C&H optic plate soon and wanted to kill two birds at once. |
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[#10]
Quoted: Ah, I said disconnector and meant striker block in my post. Will edit. Ok, I examined my striker block channel when I had it out, all looked well, but will reinspect. Installing a C&H optic plate soon and wanted to kill two birds at once. View Quote No worries. I knew what you meant. Mine also looked fine visually, but it had a burr or some other rough surface in there. |
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[#11]
My 10mm is the 4 inch version. While mine functions fine, I would like to put a stiffer spring in it especially for the heavy 200 grain loads I am shooting. What spring is suggested for the 4 inch version?
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[#12]
Quoted: My 10mm is the 4 inch version. While mine functions fine, I would like to put a stiffer spring in it especially for the heavy 200 grain loads I am shooting. What spring is suggested for the 4 inch version? View Quote 24lb spring for a Glock 22. You can disassemble your factory guide rod and add it in place of your factory spring. |
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[#13]
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[#14]
Botach has mags for $36.
Ordered a couple yesterday, already shipped. |
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[#15]
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[#16]
Quoted: Any new gun, I expect atleast some malfunctions while breaking the thing in. If it doesn't have the expected malfunction, then I'm all giddy. I did have that exact malfunction 1 the first time I shot the gun. Now I have the extra power ismi flat wire 24 lb spring on the oem guide rod shooting my real 10mm loads, 180gr at 1320 labradar confirmed, and have not had any malfunctions since. But it still really isn't broken in yet. So I am not going to pronounce it a pile of shit. Know which recently purchased pistols I haven't had any malfunctions with? Iwi masada and Beretta axp 2. I expect malfunctions until break in occurs. It's expected. Now if after 300 rounds or so, the thing keeps on doing it, then it's a pile of shit. Have a Ruger compact 9mm that wouldn't clear up no matter whoes ammo I tried. Sent it in to Ruger. They fixed it. That was after a few hundred rounds that it kept on malfunctioning with several brands of ammo. Not a single box for Fucks sake. View Quote I expect any new striker fired gun from a reputable company to work flawlessly from point of purchase until I start fucking with it. That's been my experience with handguns from glock, s&w, sig, cz, h&k, sa, and ruger over the last 13 years of shooting handguns. My m&p10 is the only handgun I've ever had that's given me any issues. I'm willing to try to work through them, but so far, it seems I've gotten a lemon. Multiple failures to feed/out of battery per magazine, regardless of what weight aftermarket spring or bullet weight I try. I'll stick to glock for my woods backup until I get things sorted. |
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[#17]
Not to thread crap. I just picked one up and intend on whitetail hunting with it.
But Michigan requires me to have a maximum capacity of 9 rounds total and trying to find 10 round mags is impossible But I’ve found a company called mag blocks or something similar to that. Does anyone have any experience with them ? Also what chest holsters have Forum members used? |
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[#18]
Quoted: Not to thread crap. I just picked one up and intend on whitetail hunting with it. But Michigan requires me to have a maximum capacity of 9 rounds total and trying to find 10 round mags is impossible But I’ve found a company called mag blocks or something similar to that. Does anyone have any experience with them ? Also what chest holsters have Forum members used? View Quote Chest holster suggestions: Hill People Gear Kit Bag or Kenai kydex chest holster |
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[#19]
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[#20]
Quoted: Real good suggestions that I hadn't considered. Will the 4.6" M&P with a 509T fit in the Original HPG kit bag? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Chest holster suggestions: Hill People Gear Kit Bag or Kenai kydex chest holster Real good suggestions that I hadn't considered. Will the 4.6" M&P with a 509T fit in the Original HPG kit bag? @Blazin_Bill Here’s my original HPG Kit Bag with my 4.6” 10mm plus Holosun 407 and TLR-1HL. I’m not sure if a 509T installed would have a bigger footprint, but there’s plenty of room for my pistol as configured. I doubt you’d have a problem. Attached File Attached File |
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[#21]
Quoted: @Blazin_Bill Here’s my original HPG Kit Bag with my 4.6” 10mm plus Holosun 407 and TLR-1HL. I’m not sure if a 509T installed would have a bigger footprint, but there’s plenty of room for my pistol as configured. I doubt you’d have a problem. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314595/2F6D9EA1-B3D8-476C-AD94-F90CF91F8525_jpe-2462753.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314595/D576AC64-7C4B-4002-A1EE-BA30F4818883_jpe-2462754.JPG View Quote Thank you!!!!! |
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[#23]
Quoted: Ran into another series of failure to feeds. They seem to be happening on the last few rounds of the magazine, typically on round 3 with two more remaining in the magazine. I added the M&P .45 ACP metal guide rod from Wolff, along with the 24lbs. recoil spring. Any ideas on how I might be able to resolve these issues? So far I've only tried the range FMJ SIG 10MM that is packaged in the black and yellowed colored boxes. I think it's around 630lbs. of energy. https://i.imgur.com/3tudJzu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EFaUmG3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ec7kNx4.jpg View Quote How far past the slide stop does the slide travel? Could you be on coil bind, shortening the slide stroke? I wouldn't think so but just something to check. |
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[#24]
Quoted: Ran into another series of failure to feeds. They seem to be happening on the last few rounds of the magazine, typically on round 3 with two more remaining in the magazine. I added the M&P .45 ACP metal guide rod from Wolff, along with the 24lbs. recoil spring. Any ideas on how I might be able to resolve these issues? So far I've only tried the range FMJ SIG 10MM that is packaged in the black and yellowed colored boxes. I think it's around 630lbs. of energy. https://i.imgur.com/3tudJzu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EFaUmG3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ec7kNx4.jpg View Quote Try a 22 lb spring. |
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[#25]
I thought I would love this gun, put maybe 30-35 rounds through it before priority’s changed and now I have to get rid of it because my daughter wants to hunt
So a 350 legend bolt gun is in the works for her now |
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[#26]
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[#27]
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[#28]
I finally grabbed some underwood 200 gr hardcast. My M&P ran through it without issue.
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[#29]
I just received my 4.6" M&P 10mm. I haven't fired it yet (going out this weekend) but before I do I'd like to clean the trigger up a bit. It has a nice break but the takeup is really rough where the round block is being pressed up into the slide. I need to take off the rear sight so I can access the round hole.
I unscrewed the sight screw, locked the slide in a vise with non-marring jaws, and pretty much bent a brass drift rod trying to get the damn rear sight out. I tried both directions and that little guy is *not* budging even with fairly solid hammering. Any tips to loosen it up? I tried a little heat but I don't want to screw up the slide. Am I missing something stupid here? |
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[#30]
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[#31]
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[#32]
Quoted: I just received my 4.6" M&P 10mm. I haven't fired it yet (going out this weekend) but before I do I'd like to clean the trigger up a bit. It has a nice break but the takeup is really rough where the round block is being pressed up into the slide. I need to take off the rear sight so I can access the round hole. I unscrewed the sight screw, locked the slide in a vise with non-marring jaws, and pretty much bent a brass drift rod trying to get the damn rear sight out. I tried both directions and that little guy is *not* budging even with fairly solid hammering. Any tips to loosen it up? I tried a little heat but I don't want to screw up the slide. Am I missing something stupid here? View Quote I usually use a steel punch and a fairly substantial hammer to remove factory sights, particularly rear sights, on a M&P. However, it’s always a one way trip because when I remove factory fights as I replace them with aftermarket sights. Usually it requires a significant amount of file work to fit new sights properly. Also, on a CORE M&P slide (which are all the optics ready slides) the striker block is held in place by a plate under the optic snd not the rear sight. |
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[#33]
Quoted: Also, on a CORE M&P slide (which are all the optics ready slides) the striker block is held in place by a plate under the optic snd not the rear sight. View Quote That's not how my 4.6" 10mm is, rear sight is solo, separate from the striker block. FWIW I could not budge my front nor rear sight, even with BFH and steel punch. Not a big deal because planning to buy an optic on Black Friday. |
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[#34]
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[#35]
Quoted: That's not how my 4.6" 10mm is, rear sight is solo, separate from the striker block. FWIW I could not budge my front nor rear sight, even with BFH and steel punch. Not a big deal because planning to buy an optic on Black Friday. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Also, on a CORE M&P slide (which are all the optics ready slides) the striker block is held in place by a plate under the optic snd not the rear sight. That's not how my 4.6" 10mm is, rear sight is solo, separate from the striker block. FWIW I could not budge my front nor rear sight, even with BFH and steel punch. Not a big deal because planning to buy an optic on Black Friday. I think we're both saying the same thing about the striker block access, just in different ways. In any case, did you try saturating with Kroil? Applying a soldering iron to the sight itself? Worst case scenario, I've cut sights out of dovetails before. |
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[#36]
My striker block is causing my trigger to have a really weird feel up until the wall. Almost like a spongy feel. I removed the striker block and cleaned it off but I didn’t notice anything. Sponginess is still there.
I have a early m2.0 9 compact and the trigger is super smooth. It’s also well broken in but I don’t remember have this issue with it. |
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[#38]
so if i buy a M&P10 i should get a 24lb wolff spring for 200gr underwood and be good to go after break in period? add a 22lb for 180? and apex trigger?
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[#39]
Quoted: so if i buy a M&P10 i should get a 24lb wolff spring for 200gr underwood and be good to go after break in period? add a 22lb for 180? and apex trigger? View Quote I use a 22# for everything, including Underwood 200gr hardcast. I’d suggest getting a Wolff guide rod and a 20, 22 & 24# spring. Then, figure out what works best in your gun. If you only want to buy one spring, then I’d suggest 22# Also, Apex currently does not recommend their trigger in the M&P10mm. I’d suggest just dry firing a lot to smooth any metal to metal contact points. |
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[#40]
Quoted: My striker block is causing my trigger to have a really weird feel up until the wall. Almost like a spongy feel. I removed the striker block and cleaned it off but I didn’t notice anything. Sponginess is still there. I have a early m2.0 9 compact and the trigger is super smooth. It’s also well broken in but I don’t remember have this issue with it. View Quote I think that you are feeling is the part of the trigger that interfaces with the striker block pushing it up. If you feel comfortable pulling your gun apart, I’d suggest pulling out the striker block and polishing with a Dremel, felt bit and polishing compound. |
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[#41]
Proven arms and Outfitters has mags if y'all haven't gotten a few extra yet.
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[#42]
Quoted: My striker block is causing my trigger to have a really weird feel up until the wall. Almost like a spongy feel. I removed the striker block and cleaned it off but I didn’t notice anything. Sponginess is still there. I have a early m2.0 9 compact and the trigger is super smooth. It’s also well broken in but I don’t remember have this issue with it. View Quote Am I the only person who thinks the Apex striker blocks are just rounded off and polished factory S&W parts? |
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[#43]
Quoted: Am I the only person who thinks the Apex striker blocks are just rounded off and polished factory S&W parts? View Quote I don’t think they are made from a factory striker block. From looking at the geometry on both when I have swapped them on various pistols, I think they are made from raw material. The factory has more of a chamfer whereas the Apex part has much more rounded shape. I think if you went to take a factory block and turn it into an Apex block you would have to add material to the factory part |
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[#44]
Figured I would make my first post here. Been following this thread. Ended up grabbing a 4.6 model, and a Wolff recoil rod/spring. Went to the range, no issues with various ammo including some 200gr Underwood. I ended up putting in the Wolff spring at the end, simply because I bought it, figured why not.
Just need to find a holster for it now. Nice gun. Thanks |
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[#45]
Quoted: Figured I would make my first post here. Been following this thread. Ended up grabbing a 4.6 model, and a Wolff recoil rod/spring. Went to the range, no issues with various ammo including some 200gr Underwood. I ended up putting in the Wolff spring at the end, simply because I bought it, figured why not. Just need to find a holster for it now. Nice gun. Thanks View Quote My 2.0 is continuing to be reliable and fun to shoot. Glad yours is too. |
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[#46]
Upper Hand Holster
Another maker of M&P 10mm holsters. Haven't used them so would appreciate any input on their quality. |
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[#47]
Quoted: Upper Hand Holster Another maker of M&P 10mm holsters. Haven't used them so would appreciate any input on their quality. View Quote I’ve seen their work first hand. A buddy snd fellow RSO at my club uses them. The quality is very good. I was actually bugging them via IM to make a 10mm holster. I went with KT Mech, but I’m less thrilled with it. The Upper Hsnd holsters I’ve seen, particularly light bearing holsters, are IMHO better holsters than KT Mech. |
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[#48]
Quoted: I just received my 4.6" M&P 10mm. I haven't fired it yet (going out this weekend) but before I do I'd like to clean the trigger up a bit. It has a nice break but the takeup is really rough where the round block is being pressed up into the slide. I need to take off the rear sight so I can access the round hole. I unscrewed the sight screw, locked the slide in a vise with non-marring jaws, and pretty much bent a brass drift rod trying to get the damn rear sight out. I tried both directions and that little guy is *not* budging even with fairly solid hammering. Any tips to loosen it up? I tried a little heat but I don't want to screw up the slide. Am I missing something stupid here? View Quote I followed burwells PDF I use a bigger hammer and a large heavy brass punch it’s about the diameter of a dime and I gound the tip to fit the sight wrapped slide in electrical tape, some wood in the vice jaws and wet to town I’ve probably done 8 of them now Attached File |
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[#49]
Quoted: I followed burwells PDF I use a bigger hammer and a large heavy brass punch it’s about the diameter of a dime and I gound the tip to fit the sight wrapped slide in electrical tape, some wood in the vice jaws and wet to town I’ve probably done 8 of them now https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/2275/8B4A842E-034C-4A70-82E8-296CCB551645_jpe-2560801.JPG View Quote Whenever I remove an M&P rear factory sight, my plan is always to replace it with an aftermarket version. Since I don't care what happens to the rear sight, I use a steel punch and a big hammer. The sight takes some damage from a steel punch. I always file the new sight to fit the dovetail for about 1/3 to 1/2 insert with finger pressure. I can use a brass or aluminum punch and a small hammer to tap the sight the rest of the way and secure via set screw. @_disconnector_ not trying to be a wiseass here, but just checking if you removed the set screw in the rear sight before trying to punch it? I was in a hurry once and forgot about the set screw. The sight did not budge until I remembered and removed it. |
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[#50]
I’m in need of one of the trigger guard cover holsters for
My 10mm while riding in a chest pouch. My stipulation is it needs to be able to function with a TLR1 light on as well |
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