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Posted: 1/7/2021 2:04:48 PM EDT
I would like to eventually purchase two .357 magnum revolvers, one a 4" and one a pocket snubby.
Have shot both the S&W 686 and the Ruger GP100, liked both. Have shot the Ruger SP101 3" so not really a pocket snubby but close enough I guess. After looking around I think the S&W 66 would be a good to go purchase for the larger gun. Not sure about which pocket snubby to look at (yea yea I know supply sucks right now etc). Should I just pursue the 66 with the 2.75 inch barrel as a compromise or get the 66 with the 4.25" and a smaller snubby? Or go with a GP100 in a similar fashion? I am not familiar with the pocket revolvers much so I guess the attributes are no hammer to snag, reliability and capacity (most I assume are 5 round). I will eventually carry both. Might hunt with the larger one, definitely will use for when hiking in remote places if I don't end up with a Glock 20. Opinions and experience, chime in. Added poll |
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[#1]
Quoted: I will eventually carry both. View Quote 4" is a big gun for CCW, but definitely possible in winter. Out in the woods it wouldn't matter, but a longer barrel really starts getting uncomfortable OWB when you sit down. A 3" GP100 is still a big gun, and as heavy as many 4" S&Ws. The 3" Wiley Clapps were well done, though, and the 4" Match Champion is a nice choice as well. I have a 3" Kimber K6S that I use for CCW, and a 4" S&W 620 for woods work (7 shot L-Frame). If the 620 didn't have emotional significance to me, a well-loaded 2.75" M66 with some modifications like a certain member's would be a great "do all" choice. @03RN If you must have two revolvers, then a 4" GP100 Match Champion would be a good "big one" due to better barrel profile, sights, strength, and trigger to rival many S&Ws. And maybe consider a Colt King Cobra as a much lighter 3" 6 shot .357 choice? |
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[#2]
Own multiples of both and like both.
A 2.75 66 is not for pocket carry. Too big and too much stuff to snag on. Pocket carry for a revolver is Smith J frame country. A Ruger SP-101 is doable but really too heavy. A Ruger LCR would likely work, tho the grips are bit large. IF you're going to shoot a lot of magnum loads (and you probably won't) go Smith L frame or Ruger GP100. K frame Smiths aren't built for a steady diet of the heavy stuff. My standard carry revolver is either a SP-101 or a three inch GP-100 Wiley Clapp model. Both require a good belt and holster, especially belt. I carry revolver far more than an auto, just a preference of mine. In terms of accuracy, quality, trigger, etc, I really find no significant difference between the two brands. Each can be good, each can be so so. As a rule Smith is a little smoother but a Ruger can be slicked up just fine. Ruger will likely save you some money. |
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[#3]
I've got a 3" Colt King Cobra I carry. Very easy to do with a decent leather holster, IMO.
Between Ruger & S&W, it simply comes down to do you want a good trigger & good accuracy? If so, get the S&W. If you just need to stick with budget, then the Ruger might be your best bet? If you lean towards a Colt King Cobra, they fit perfectly in the holsters made for the GP100s. S&W also makes airlite .357mag models but they're not fun to shoot with .357 loads. A cylinder or two a couple of times a year is about all I do with mine. But they're excellent carry options in that caliber, IMO. My .o2 |
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[#4]
4" 686+ because shorter barrels neuter the 357 and Smith has a better trigger than Ruger.
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[#5]
I think the rugers are good guns. The 3" WC gp100s are awesome guns.
When I was getting ready to buy I chose the m66-8 because I had holsters and speedloaders for my m19. I carry aiwb and find k frames very comfortable. I had a l frame speedloader in my pocket and it was very noticeable. Accuracy wise I really dont feel I give up any practical accuracy over 4" guns and velocity is pretty close. Attached File Nov Bear camp match stage 4 2.75" velocity data |
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[#7]
Definitely will carry .357 for defense your right however .38 more likely for practice.
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[#8]
Quoted: The 2.75" M66 would serve you well for all roles, and keep you some money back for the G20 you were mentioning. 4" is a big gun for CCW, but definitely possible in winter. Out in the woods it wouldn't matter, but a longer barrel really starts getting uncomfortable OWB when you sit down. A 3" GP100 is still a big gun, and as heavy as many 4" S&Ws. The 3" Wiley Clapps were well done, though, and the 4" Match Champion is a nice choice as well. I have a 3" Kimber K6S that I use for CCW, and a 4" S&W 620 for woods work (7 shot L-Frame). If the 620 didn't have emotional significance to me, a well-loaded 2.75" M66 with some modifications like a certain member's would be a great "do all" choice. @03RN If you must have two revolvers, then a 4" GP100 Match Champion would be a good "big one" due to better barrel profile, sights, strength, and trigger to rival many S&Ws. And maybe consider a Colt King Cobra as a much lighter 3" 6 shot .357 choice? View Quote Thanks! |
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[#9]
Quoted: Own multiples of both and like both. A 2.75 66 is not for pocket carry. Too big and too much stuff to snag on. Pocket carry for a revolver is Smith J frame country. A Ruger SP-101 is doable but really too heavy. A Ruger LCR would likely work, tho the grips are bit large. IF you're going to shoot a lot of magnum loads (and you probably won't) go Smith L frame or Ruger GP100. K frame Smiths aren't built for a steady diet of the heavy stuff. My standard carry revolver is either a SP-101 or a three inch GP-100 Wiley Clapp model. Both require a good belt and holster, especially belt. I carry revolver far more than an auto, just a preference of mine. In terms of accuracy, quality, trigger, etc, I really find no significant difference between the two brands. Each can be good, each can be so so. As a rule Smith is a little smoother but a Ruger can be slicked up just fine. Ruger will likely save you some money. View Quote Thanks. Magnums for defense, specials for training probably. |
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[#10]
Quoted: I've got a 3" Colt King Cobra I carry. Very easy to do with a decent leather holster, IMO. Between Ruger & S&W, it simply comes down to do you want a good trigger & good accuracy? If so, get the S&W. If you just need to stick with budget, then the Ruger might be your best bet? If you lean towards a Colt King Cobra, they fit perfectly in the holsters made for the GP100s. S&W also makes airlite .357mag models but they're not fun to shoot with .357 loads. A cylinder or two a couple of times a year is about all I do with mine. But they're excellent carry options in that caliber, IMO. My .o2 View Quote Thank you. |
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[#11]
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[#12]
Quoted: I think the rugers are good guns. The 3" WC gp100s are awesome guns. When I was getting ready to buy I chose the m66-8 because I had holsters and speedloaders for my m19. I carry aiwb and find k frames very comfortable. I had a l frame speedloader in my pocket and it was very noticeable. Accuracy wise I really dont feel I give up any practical accuracy over 4" guns and velocity is pretty close. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/433221/20201027_120720_jpg-1768712.JPG https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umblC3mstGY 2.75" velocity data View Quote Thanks for the info! |
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[#13]
I love revolvers. If it were me I would go with a GP100 and a J frame. I think the GP 100s are underrated. Yes they are large, but they weigh less than a 5 inch 1911.
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[#14]
I'm a Smith and Wesson Fanatic! But that being said before I'd buy a new Smith and Wesson revolver especially the new 66 with its sleeved barrel and hideous Hillary hole I'd buy a Ruger Gp100. I have a darkened 3" Wiley Clapp and it's nice.
https://www.ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1753.html |
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[#15]
I would go for a snub S&W for CCW for the better trigger and lighter weight, and go for the Ruger for the 4” to be your range work horse and to give you the ability to load really hot ammo and have the barrel length to reach a higher potential energy from said ammo.
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[#16]
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[#17]
Quoted: I'm a Smith and Wesson Fanatic! But that being said before I'd buy a new Smith and Wesson revolver especially the new 66 with its sleeved barrel and hideous Hillary hole I'd buy a Ruger Gp100. I have a darkened 3" Wiley Clapp and it's nice. https://www.ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1753.html https://cdn.athlonoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2018/04/Wiley-Clapp-Ruger-GP100-1.jpg View Quote OP, part of the reason I went for the Kimber for regular CCW is capacity (6x .357), ballistics, and weight difference. The two lightest 3" 6-shot .357s on the market are the Kimber K6S followed by the Colt King Cobra (which coincidentally are some of the easiest on which to install night sights, which I think is extremely important). I already had my 4" S&W, and the minuscule/nonexistent weight difference between it and the Wiley Clapp/M66 2.75" wasn't with the cost for a carry gun (because why not carry my more capable full size?). I stuck with a 3" for CCW because I'm not giving up much, but gaining ballistics, recoil control, and better sights than the S&W 640. Also, I fired a 2" 640 with .357s a couple of times, and the pressure and blast were extremely unpleasant; my 3" is much more managable. But again, if I hadn't already had my big 4", then something like the 2.75" M66 or 3" Wiley Clapp with the slightly more compact style GP100 rubber/wood grips would be great "jack of all trades" guns. But if you want to buy a big one and a small one, the Ruger Match Champion is 100% what I would buy if I didn't already own my sentimental S&W, without a moments hesitation. ETA: actual pocket carry is overrated. Get a good IWB holster. |
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[#18]
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[#19]
Based on what you say you will do, I would just get a 3" S&W K frame of your choosing and call it good. It will not fit in your pocket but my 640 is a pain in the pocket so I usually have it on/under my belt anyway.
L and N frame guns are just too heavy for a 6 to 8 shot carry piece. Rugers are OK but I am more familiar with S&W internals so I can make the trigger as good as I want. The model 19/66 is the pinnacle of a carry revolver to me. |
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[#20]
Thanks for all your input everyone.
The rear sights on the S&W and Ruger look like you can replace them... is this correct? Screws on the S&W and a pin on the Ruger? |
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[#21]
On the gp100, They came with 2 different style rear sights. Novak and the roll pinned. Both can be replaced. And the front sight is a detent you press in from the front. 3 minutes to sway the sights.
On the fancy models, like the gp100 match champion with the target crown, you can't easily swap the front sight. |
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[#22]
I voted 4" Ruger but would look at the 7 shot version if I were buying.
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[#23]
Quoted: I voted 4" Ruger but would look at the 7 shot version if I were buying. View Quote Would not recommend the 7 shot. Large number of complaints about binding with certain brands of ammo due to the fact that they just hogged out 7 charge holes in the cylinder the same size of the 6 shot model. Some people seem to be ok while others not. Personally I bought one, made in 2019. Mine would bind like a motherfucker, sent it back to Ruger and thankfully they swapped it for a 6 shot. |
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[#25]
I prefer S&W over Rugers but that's a personal preferences and something you need to decide.
I went with a 4" 686 for a woods gun and an airweight 38+p 642 for pocket. I also prefer a Galco VHS for the 686. Very comfortable, easy concealment and out of the way. I like the fact that the 686 is built on the L frame as opposed to the 66's K frame. Also the 686 has more weight to absorb the 357 kick and why I didn't go 357 for a pocket revolver is for the same reason, recoil, that and it's light enough to be unnoticeable due to the alloy frame. 38 special in a small light package is enough for me. I have no other illusions that it's only meant to unass myself from a bad spot and nothing more. |
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[#28]
S&W 686 or 586 4" would be my first pick.
Never a 19 or 66. K frames aren't strong enough IMO for a steady diet of .357 mag. |
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[#29]
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[#30]
I'd go with a 686 for the big gun, and a 640 for the pocket one. I've had my 640 since the came out in 1995 in .357, and just love it.
Easy to pocket carry in the summer time, in cargo shots and a t-shirt, and very light in a holster on a belt. I use Remington Golden Saber's in .357 for my carry loads, which are less than full power .357 but more energy than a .38. That, plus a Crimson Trace laser grip, and a night sight front, is a nice carry package. |
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[#31]
The older M66 K frames didn't handle a steady diet of 357 but the newer one is now the combat magnum M66 K frame and they have beefed up the forcing cone for full power loads. But your only getting 1 more round compared to an all day ccw J frame. I wanted but could not find a 649 which I’m a fan of and the enclosed hammer and have other J frames hammer and bodyguard style 38 spl. So I purchased a Sp101 Snub but found it too blocky for what it is. Purchased a Taurus 605 a month after because they have upt their game on the newer ones and you can now stack the triggers plus they are polished along with the hammer and cylinder release all for around $300. Got rid of the Ruger and don’t miss it. Shooting my friends GP100 I found to be a nice experience but I like my Smiths. Colt King Cobra is IMHO a better alternative than the SP101. As for as hunting / hiking / target / and defense I'd skip past the K and go right to an L frame (I did) 686 plus PC real good revolver. if you like a 3inch check out the 586 L COMP. Good luck in whatever you choose but I bet you can’t just buy one. Lol.
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[#33]
I would skip the Jack-of-All-Trades Master-of-None 357 magnum all together.
If your going to hunt with it get something that starts with a 4. For a pocket carry buy a 442/642 in 38 Specials +P and save yourself a lot of money. Very few people can shoot 357 Magnum Snub-nose revolvers well, especially the Air-Weight models. If I had a quarter every time I have read on the internet I have an air-weight 357 Magnum but I only shoot 38 Special +P in it I could by a S&W 340 PD and throw that mean little revolver in the river and not feel bad for the loss. I have a bunch of revolvers and the 357 Magnum just gather dust. For any particular application I have a revolver in another cartridge that does what I want better than 357 Magnum. If you're only ever going to own one revolver than 357 Magnum might as well be it but if your going to buy more than one there are so many more interesting options out there then the bark is worst than it's bite 357 Magnum. Moonclips rule, get something that takes moonclips! |
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[#34]
Of your options I voted for the 66 2.75 barrel.
My dream revolver is a model 65 in 3". 357 mag when you need it, 38 special when you don't. A round butt frame for easy carry and concealment, but lots of bigger grips available for comfort when shooting full power 357. I also prefer the fixed sights on a carry gun. If you are going to shoot 50 rounds of 357 every weekend, get the Ruger. Any other reason, go S&W. Other opinions will vary. |
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[#35]
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
The 4" GP100 is leading the poll. Went out and looked at a few shops to see what they have in stock which unsurprisingly is nothing at this time. Whats up with the sleeved barrel on the S&W's? I watched a video by Jerry Miculek where he briefly spoke about it. |
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[#36]
Quoted: Thanks for all the replies everyone. The 4" GP100 is leading the poll. Went out and looked at a few shops to see what they have in stock which unsurprisingly is nothing at this time. Whats up with the sleeved barrel on the S&W's? I watched a video by Jerry Miculek where he briefly spoke about it. View Quote It's cheaper and a more accurate set up. It's not as nice looking either but its not a deal breaker for a gun that I carry and shoot a lot. Attached File |
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[#37]
Quoted: Of your options I voted for the 66 2.75 barrel. My dream revolver is a model 65 in 3". 357 mag when you need it, 38 special when you don't. A round butt frame for easy carry and concealment, but lots of bigger grips available for comfort when shooting full power 357. I also prefer the fixed sights on a carry gun. If you are going to shoot 50 rounds of 357 every weekend, get the Ruger. Any other reason, go S&W. Other opinions will vary. View Quote Lol. 50 rounds of magnums every week is nothing |
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[#38]
Quoted: Lol. 50 rounds of magnums every week is nothing View Quote Regarding 7 shot and sleeved S&W, my 620 is a 4" sleeved barrel L frame 7 shot .357. It can be extremely accurate, but thus far has only bound up on Hornady Critical Defense (which locks the gun up tight for some reason). Otherwise it's worked just fine for handload testing, CCW classes, woods gun, etc. A bit large for everyday CCW, though. |
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[#39]
Quoted: It's $150 in mail ordered Ammo these days . Regarding 7 shot and sleeved S&W, my 620 is a 4" sleeved barrel L frame 7 shot .357. It can be extremely accurate, but thus far has only bound up on Hornady Critical Defense (which locks the gun up tight for some reason). Otherwise it's worked just fine for handload testing, CCW classes, woods gun, etc. A bit large for everyday CCW, though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Lol. 50 rounds of magnums every week is nothing Regarding 7 shot and sleeved S&W, my 620 is a 4" sleeved barrel L frame 7 shot .357. It can be extremely accurate, but thus far has only bound up on Hornady Critical Defense (which locks the gun up tight for some reason). Otherwise it's worked just fine for handload testing, CCW classes, woods gun, etc. A bit large for everyday CCW, though. Well, yes. I meant in regards to the ability of the gun to handle it. Not our wallet. Fortunately I have stacks of ammo cans loaded up but unfortunately im down to my last 3k primers |
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[#40]
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[#41]
Quoted: I prefer S&W over Rugers but that's a personal preferences and something you need to decide. I went with a 4" 686 for a woods gun and an airweight 38+p 642 for pocket. I also prefer a Galco VHS for the 686. Very comfortable, easy concealment and out of the way. I like the fact that the 686 is built on the L frame as opposed to the 66's K frame. Also the 686 has more weight to absorb the 357 kick and why I didn't go 357 for a pocket revolver is for the same reason, recoil, that and it's light enough to be unnoticeable due to the alloy frame. 38 special in a small light package is enough for me. I have no other illusions that it's only meant to unass myself from a bad spot and nothing more. View Quote I couldn't say it any better. This would be my choice. |
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[#42]
I don't carry guns in my pants pockets so I'm no help there.
But for 357, I'm really happy with L frame guns, I don't mind the slightly larger than K frame size, they conceal fine with a 4" barrel for me (seated or standing), the weight is no object coming from a full size steel Colt Govt Model background. The 586 will in my experience take all the full house (well outside modern loading manual max loads) 357's as well as or better than a Ruger DA. .44 mag of course the Ruger DA will endure much, much more. I haven't seen that in a large amount of various revolvers and revolver owners doing high volume max .357's. So my take on a belt/holstered .357 is an older 4" 586 (I like blue guns, I like 4" guns and don't live in a corrosive environment), they soak up a lot of abuse and have a niiiice trigger while doing it. K frames are small, neat and tidy, I just prefer to beat on L frames Buy any one, you'll eventually evolve into what suits you best, or not. All are a good starting place and will serve you well even if you never change direction. As others said, older used S&W's will give you the better trigger by far. |
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[#43]
Quoted: As others said, older used S&W's will give you the better trigger by far. View Quote I have a 15-3, 19-3, 64, 64-5, 10-7 and a 66-8. Guess which one has the best trigger. Hint, its the obe with the hole in the side. The new k frames with the thicker forcing cone are proving to be pretty resilient to getting pounded on. Over 15k rounds of full house mags and almost that in .38+p through mine so far. |
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[#44]
Clock or tank?
Personally I'd go for the Smith & Wesson, but I wouldn't be shooting it a lot. |
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[#45]
Quoted: I have a 15-3, 19-3, 64, 64-5, 10-7 and a 66-8. Guess which one has the best trigger. Hint, its the obe with the hole in the side. The new k frames with the thicker forcing cone are proving to be pretty resilient to getting pounded on. Over 15k rounds of full house mags and almost that in .38+p through mine so far. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: As others said, older used S&W's will give you the better trigger by far. I have a 15-3, 19-3, 64, 64-5, 10-7 and a 66-8. Guess which one has the best trigger. Hint, its the obe with the hole in the side. The new k frames with the thicker forcing cone are proving to be pretty resilient to getting pounded on. Over 15k rounds of full house mags and almost that in .38+p through mine so far. I was contrasting with a Ruger DA. The physical mechanism of Ruger vs S&W just allows for a better trigger, if that matters. Many folks happily live with smoothed up Rugers. I don't hate on new S&W's I carry one 24 hrs/day, the lock doesn't bother me, I just make it non functioning I don't hate on Ruger DA's, we need the variety in revo land. I don't bash K frames, there are a LOT more people who prefer K's over L's, I'm in the minority that likes L's in 357. Look at the love for J frames in a pants pocket (prob more than K,L & N put together), not my thing, but good on them for at least having a gun. I'm even so open minded that I don't look down on glock shooters. |
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[#46]
Quoted: I have a 15-3, 19-3, 64, 64-5, 10-7 and a 66-8. Guess which one has the best trigger. Hint, its the obe with the hole in the side. The new k frames with the thicker forcing cone are proving to be pretty resilient to getting pounded on. Over 15k rounds of full house mags and almost that in .38+p through mine so far. View Quote But, if you handle a few hundred S&W's both old and new, you'll find the older triggers are overall better. Not that I own several hundred revolvers, I do own quite a few, but my brother is a dealer who sells a lot of guns so I get to manhandle a lot of them. He's also a fru fru "collector" (said with an upper crust British accent ) of fine and rare Pinned and Recessed only Smiths , and fine double barrel shotguns, and fine Steyr AUG's, and fine vintage Randall knives (in other words he has a lot more money than me). My tastes are simple worker guy guns, but the old P&R revolvers went out the door in a higher state of tune overall than any manufacturer can afford to spend today, that can't be denied. But the mechanicals are still there and they can be home improved to meet or exceed any old world Smith with a small amount of knowledge and patient work. |
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[#47]
Had one gp 100 which would bind. Sent it back to ruger and the new one I received is good to go.
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[#48]
Quoted: I would skip the Jack-of-All-Trades Master-of-None 357 magnum all together. If your going to hunt with it get something that starts with a 4. For a pocket carry buy a 442/642 in 38 Specials +P and save yourself a lot of money. Very few people can shoot 357 Magnum Snub-nose revolvers well, especially the Air-Weight models. If I had a quarter every time I have read on the internet I have an air-weight 357 Magnum but I only shoot 38 Special +P in it I could by a S&W 340 PD and throw that mean little revolver in the river and not feel bad for the loss. I have a bunch of revolvers and the 357 Magnum just gather dust. For any particular application I have a revolver in another cartridge that does what I want better than 357 Magnum. If you're only ever going to own one revolver than 357 Magnum might as well be it but if your going to buy more than one there are so many more interesting options out there then the bark is worst than it's bite 357 Magnum. Moonclips rule, get something that takes moonclips! View Quote I was going to say pretty much all the same. For a pocket back-up Revolver... My J frame snubs stuffed with Underwood's 150gr Hard Cast Wads in .38Special+P... pushing 950FPS is a hell of a 10 yards and closer pill to swallow on the receiving end. There is nothing more needed for a pocket gun for 2 legged assholes even in winter... and those hard cast, full meplate wads punch deep on pelt, bone, and sinew as well. For the primary, I'd get a 3" barreled "N" frame, a Vintage M24-3 most preferably with a tapered barrel and Combats because it balances, points, and carries so very well.... And load it with juiced up 255 grain HC "Keith .44Specials" for Woods carry. For the street, 200 grain Gold Dot "flying ashtrays" work quite well. And I find the recoil much more enjoyable than that of full house 125-158grain .357 Magnums because the .44Magnum and .44Special cartridges recoil impulse pushes into the palm rather than the violent and upwards snap of the .357Maggie... at least that is my experience between the 3 calibers. Of course YMMV... Of course if Vintage isn't easily obtained (and they Aren't at present), then the 5 shot L frame with 2.75" barrel in .44Special is a nice gun... |
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[#49]
I have the 2.75” 66 and love it. It actually conceals really well AIWB, much better than I would’ve thought. Mine is paired with an M&P 340 j-frame and the 66 truly isn’t a compromise, it’s large enough to be noticeable and not fit both roles. It’s a pleasure to shoot though and will fill most roles a 4” would.
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[#50]
If Ruger offered an adjustable sight 3" GP100 357 that would be great, but they currently don't. The GP100 is probably my favorite double action revolver, it looks good, shoots good, it's robust and with a Wolff spring kit, has a KILLER trigger on it. So I would say of current production .357's, the 4.2" GP100 (stainless) is about as good as it gets, so good that everyone should own one (one thing though, stick with the 6 shot version).
I kept with the 6" stainless GP100, my idea was similar to yours, have a "big" 357 and a smaller one to carry and I did just that. So in addition to the 6" GP100 I have a 2.25" SP101, which I might add, is a great little 357. It's a bit heftier than some of the airweight S&W's but it's infinitely more shooter friendly than any of the S&W J-frames. I like S&W, I have an N frame 629 Deluxe 3" 44 mag and I've had a few 686's over the years, and they're damned good guns so I can't speak ill of them. But that said, I still prefer the GP100. |
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