Ordered a couple P80 frames to go with my real G23. The real G23 will be what it is.

I plan to use one P80 for the Advantage Arms 22LR kit I have on order and the other will stay in the Recover Tactical 20/20 Stabilizer Brace I have on the way.

I'm looking for guidance on what parts to use to build the rest of the pistols. Obviously, not a place where I will cheap out and buy no-name junk off ebay, but I don't need a stupid expensive build for a range toy just to punch paper either.

I noticed all the build parts on Armorally, where I bought the frames, were out of stock.

Advice? Suggestions?

Tag!



...and bump for answers.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Polymer80-So-easy-a-caveman-could-do-it-/5-2075494/

Aaaww shit!

In!

Take your time. If YouTube didn't kill off the Marine Gun Builder channel, that is a good place to watch.

No YouTube has not killed of the Marine Gun Builder channel.

There is also the Marine Gun Builder forum too

https://www.marinegunbuilder.com/forum

I'm a member on that forum and it is a very good place to learn and get help if needed.

IN for rants of defective poly 80 frames coming soon. Advantage arms does not recommend using their kits on P80 frames, and the recover tactical brace is molded to fit glocks, not the P80. It will take either altering the brace, or the pistol to get it to fit.
After seeing OP's thread on the CAA brace, this thread should turn into a train wreck once he gets parts.

Buy genuine OEM Glock lower and upper parts kits.

I think knock-off parts kits are behind the problems many people have. I recently purchased a non-OEM kit accidentally and there were issues with the striker (oversized), striker safety plunger (oversized), trigger bar (flimsy), and connector (didn’t). When swapped out for genuine Glock parts everything worked great.

Another big mistake people make is assembling the entire pistol before tuning slide/rail fit. I recommend installing the rails and then working on them as needed until your stripped slide cycles smoothly. Only then finish assembling. I had one that had beautifully smooth cycling with no rail work and another that required a lot of filing, sanding, and polishing of the rails. This was due 100% to differences in the rail dimensions between the two kits, not the slides.
If your rails bind in the slide mark them with Sharpie marker, cycle the slide, then look for where the Sharpie was scraped off to know where to remove material.

In on one!

Everything you said is what causes people to have problems with their builds. I see it all of the time on the MGB forum.

I can't stress enough about properly hand fitting both the front locking block and rear rail on the P80 frames. Along with making sure the front block is level to the frame and both front and back are level to each other. I always test fit a stripped slide on the frame with just the rails installed before I start adding the trigger or any slide parts.

And one of my biggest pet peeves is when bubba the backyard gun wrecker goes and opens up the pin holes in the rails or frame and then comes crying to the forum because his pistol won't function properly.

I see a lot of people have issues with aftermarket parts all of the time. The worse is the safety plunger and trigger bars.

A lot of times when people have a bad sear engagement it is due to an aftermarket trigger bar that is not shaped correctly. Using an OEM trigger bar and OEM trigger housing fixes that issue 99% of the time.

Thanks. I am seeing OEM parts out of stock everywhere I looked so I guess I am waiting!

Looking forward to these.

Buy OEM Glock small parts is the best P80 build advice you can get.

THIS

Other than slide and barrel, staying with OEM parts is most conducive to successful completion of a reliable pistol.