So what do you guys think of these?  I like the them... as I am biased towards really long barreled handguns.

He offers them with and without brake slots actually.  Readily communicates.
I am already outbid, but I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of these, just for show. :)
I find it interesting that someone actually went to all this trouble.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124085109662

Any thoughts?

MrBlackCat

Man i want one.  I've wish Magnum Research would offer them again.  Interested to know how these mount... I dont even know how the factory ones mount

Like this...


They drill and tap three points on the barrel end.

MrBlackCat

Interesting.  Now I really want one LOL.

Mine has the factory porting, now I kinda want a non-ported to bolt this on to.

Also would really love something similar to accommodate a suppressor.

You would have to buy a 10" barrel and have it cut back and threaded.  I wouldn't trust those small screws with a suppressor!

@MrBlackCat

the Magnum Research installed brake, with the 3 bolts, is it steel, or aluminum?
I'd think it needs to be steel, wouldn't an aluminum brake be prone to erosion?

MRI FAQ: Q. How can I install a muzzle brake to my Desert Eagle barrel?

A. To have a muzzle brake installed on your barrel you would need to send the BARREL ONLY to:

Magnum Research Inc.
Attn: MB Install
12602 33rd Avenue SW
Pillager, MN 56473

Enclose a note stating that you would like a muzzle brake installed along with your name, phone number, and return shipping address.
Once the brake is installed, we will contact you for credit card payment at that time.
Estimated turnaround time is 3 weeks.
Cost of a black muzzle brake is $199.00 + $10.00 s/h = $209.00
Cost of a chrome or nickel plated muzzle brake is $264.00 + $10.00 s/h = $274.00
Cost of a 24K Gold or Titanium Gold plated muzzle brake is $299.00 + $10.00 s/h = $309.00

They have always been steel as far as I know... If the factory brake was aluminum, it MIGHT be prone to some erosion or at least cosmetic damage I think, but that is because it is so tight to the bore diameter.  The factory steel brakes are slightly larger than the bore of course, so there is a lot of pressure drop per thousandth of an inch.
From that, these Brake Extensions are not likely that tight, and they are one size fits all, so on a 44/429 or 357 they will not really function as a brake anyway and the pressures should be far below anything that would erode.

This is my opinion, and I am only speculating on the diameter on these aluminum extensions, thinking it is likely larger than factory 50AE for clearance on such a long pass through.

Note that on the factory added muzzle brakes, they are only offered in .44/.429 and 50AE inside diameters.  My 357 barrels are fit with 44mag brakes, which serve little purpose as far as brake function EXCEPT for just having a bit of mass on the end of the barrel.  I have never compared the side by side, but I will now just out of curiosity.

MrBlackCat

man..

don't knock my new concealed carry gun!

Extreme, Radical, and such words come to mind when I see the six inch one.  I can't say impractical, because it does go on a Desert Eagle. :)

They guy with the auction is very response... I didn't pry, but I think he is trying to appeal to a REALLY broad audience of people who own Desert Eagles for the aesthetic/ego/movie gun side of them more than anything.

Looks like he is going to make a few buck on them at this rate.  Once the design was set, making them any length would be simple with CNC equipment, so he just went to the extreme end of things.

I made an offer on the two shortest ones in black, but from the looks of this auction, my offer was probably insulting.  He replied that he could not sell them for what I offered.

Out of my price range by about two times, but I hope he does well with them.  :)

MrBlackCat

At that point, they are more of a bloop tube than a muzzle brake.

I'll stick with my plain muzzle.

I don't know the market for something like this, but I am pretty aware that there are quite a few Desert Eagle owners from the Comic book crowd, so to speak... and they will buy these.  Very over-the-top movie/comic bookish stuff.

When the 10" barrels came out, I didn't like them aesthetically as they broke the lines of the gun, like a P38 I had.  Deal breaker?  Obviously not, but I felt the gun would look better staying with the profile.  A few years ago, I took a 10" barrel and shaped a piece of wood around it and cut/sanded it to match the profile all the way.  This would have sandwiched over the barrel screwed together in halves.  This also was extended beyond the end of the barrel as far as I chose to do so, added brake functionality with milled slots.  The intent was that if it worked, I was going to have it made from Aluminum and mount a rail on the bottom of it which extended back under the frame... so I could have a bolt-on railed gun with zero modification to any original stuff.
Then there was the realization that 10" Barrel design and profile consistency varied wildly.  So no guarantee of fit across several 10" barrel iterations over the years.  So selling them to others was "out" even if it worked.  The project was taking a good bit of time on and off... but I have learned a great deal and solved issues chasing rabbits, so to speak.  But then the L series came out with factory rails anyway, so there was less motivation to even fool with it, so I abandoned the project.  It was "working" however.

I see these extensions as thoughts along a similar vein, but the mounting method would not be strong enough to hold anything beyond their own weight.  Actually, I have concerns about the 6" version, even from aluminum stressing the bolts.  That top bolt is under a LOT of tension, even for a high-strength bolt in 6-32.  Recoil calculation math is very difficult because of variation in a shooters ability to resist and direct the effects of recoil.  The issue is calculating how much horizontal movement the shooter allows, as this moves the radius calculation across a really wide range... and it doesn't to a point and stop at a consistent percentage to calculate the tip of barrel radial movement to calculate... the tip of the barrel isn't on a fixed radius is what I am saying.  Then you have to calculate the ratio of shear to tension produced by the two lower bolts.
If you calculate based on the a mechanically fixed axis with zero horizontal movement and zero radial resistance to recoil, the screws will fail, but this is not possible with a human firing it.

Why do I know anything about this?  I have looked into it before when I put two brakes on barrel using longer screws. :)  After some calculations, I never fired it in this configuration.  Yeah... um no.  With steel brakes that can move independently it become exponentially more difficult to calculate and the numbers based on tension spec of 6/32 screws, showed a no-go with all that mass.

Aluminum would work with 4" without any issues however... it should be lower tension than a pair of steel ones, and differential movement is removed... of course I thought of pinning the two steel brakes together, but that is just too much doing, for no real purpose.  :)

I will go see if I have an image of it like that, just for fun.

MrBlackCat

edit:  Found it... and yes, this is an edit to B&W because the one I was testing with happen to be TiN plated, so I edited the image to cover the gold.

Im with you.. I dont really get the profile they went with on the 10 and 14" barrels.  I mean, I understand it was probably for weight but it would have looked so much better if done like this  (excuse the video game screenshot)



Its also a little odd there hasnt been someone develop a barrel for them.

I think the gas system in the barrel is likely why most custom shops don't do anything with them.  I ran into this when trying to find someone to bore, rifle, & rechamber a barrel, or sleeve a barrel to 10MM auto. I could not find anyone competent to do it... I was clear that this was completely aware this was prototype/experimental/custom, with an open check, and multiple barrels to "try" with until they got it right, or were successful etc.  The only three takers I had, backed out after I explained how a Desert Eagle barrel worked... they didn't know what they were getting into, which is the only reason they said they "would take a shot at it".

I gave up... the project is on hold.  I have a modified bolt, magazines etc working.  The headspacing is known because they are working 357 Magnum barrels with bolts, so no complications there at all.  I bought Lone Wolf 6" glock barrels in 10mm to turn down just slightly into a sleeve, so even the chamber is complete, if someone would try a sleeve rater than bore and rifle.  I have around $1000 in tooling, but no one will try it.  I don't have the equipment to do this myself, and I am not a gunsmith.  I do work as an industrial machinist, but I work at a factory and it is not possible to use their equipment for ANYTHING person, much less a firearm part.
So no 10mm Auto Desert Eagle until I get a sufficient home lathe.

I think that is why no one wants to touch a custom Desert Eagle barrel though... there are some serious considerations with that gas system in there.

Here are some movie guns or props or something... can't remember where or when I found this image.  Not my image or guns.



MrBlackCat

Ahh... ok.  Never saw that movie.

MrBlackCat

Where is the folding arm brace. 😂🥴🤣😳🤔