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Posted: 8/7/2022 2:22:29 PM EDT
[#1]
Your printed frame is out of spec - likely a little too short, if you're having to squeeze that hard to get the trigger bar to release the striker. If you have a factory receiver to compare it to, get out a set of calipers and start comparing dimensions so you can see where you need to change dimensions on your print to get it usable.
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Posted: 8/7/2022 2:31:48 PM EDT
[#2]
Unfortunately, I don't have a factory G19.
Don't really want to buy one just to check some measurements. Can someone tell me what to check? When I first assembled it, it was working fine. But after working out the slide for several hundred cycles (to get it worn in smoothly), the trigger started doing this. |
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Posted: 8/7/2022 2:33:18 PM EDT
[#3]
Print another frame. I bet you warped your frame (PLA?)
Did you calibrate the e steps on your printer? |
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Posted: 8/7/2022 4:29:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you calibrate the e steps on your printer? +1 - you can print out a reference cube, then take your calipers to it, to fine-tune the design-to-print final dimensions, via calibration adjustments to your print parameters. |
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Posted: 8/7/2022 4:48:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Sadly, my 3D printer control board gave up the ghost yesterday, so I'll need to fix it before printing anything more.
I was planning to print another receiver anyway (hoping to change orientation and have fewer support contact points to sand down). I guess I'll double check calibration prior. Still would like to see what may be off on this one. |
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Posted: 8/7/2022 4:53:43 PM EDT
[#6]
You guys are probably right about the sizing, I'm comparing it to my G21 and just looking at how the trigger sits. The G21 trigger releases significantly before you hit the back of the trigger guard. The DD19.2 is lodged up against it before release.
I can try to file down the receiver a bit there, but I'm thinking I'll mess up the "safe trigger" system if I do, as the place where the lever rests to keep the trigger from going back is where I'd have to file. |
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