So the stock trigger bar in the 92X Centurion is actually quite nice, it looks like they borrowed gravity from the LTT. I ordered the LTT just to see if it could be better. Well, there actually wasn't enough movement on the trigger bar to trip the hammer when the trigger was pulled to the end of its travel. It would release maybe 50% of the time, but there was ZERO over travel. It was just barely creating enough pressure to drop the hammer.


I tried this with combinations of the stock trigger, Wilson short reach trigger, stock hammer, and Wilson deluxe hammer. All combinations were same story. I put the stock trigger bar back in and no issue. So, I'll be keeping the stock bar. Anyone else run into this on a 92x? Going to test the same bar in an M9A3 I have coming to see if it's a one off bar.

I just got a 92X and was looking at the Trigger Job in a bag from LTT...

as far as just the LTT trigger bar IDK,  but I can tell you I have installed the WC trigger bar in a few of my 92FS pistols with all the stock components and I had to Slightly "fit" it to get ignition and reset.

The LTT bar dropped right into my 92X Centurion, and about 6-7 other 92's that I've installed it in.  The only time I've had to fit an LTT trigger bar was in a 92FS Compact.  It had the same issue as you described.  Minor fitting solved the problem.  That particular gun is a bit out of spec somewhere.  I originally had a Wilson trigger bar in it and I had to file the hell out of the overtravel stop bump on that one to get the hammer to drop.

I don't recall exactly what I stoned on the LTT bar to fit it, but I believe that Ernest has a video on fitting them.  It did take way less work than the Wilson one did.  The LTT bar improves reset and reduces overtravel enough to be worth some effort to fit it, at least to me.

FWIW, I haven't ever really noticed much if any difference in reset or overtravel when swapping hammers or triggers, just trigger bars.

I found the Langdon videos. It's definitely the over travel stop I need to stone a bit. I'll get to it soon and see if I can make it better than the factory bar. I installed the deluxe hammer mainly for anesthetics, and the short reach trigger because I have short digits. Reaching the stock trigger in double action doesn't set me up to transition into single action very well without adjusting my finger. The short reach trigger feels much better in that arena.

I had the same issue.  I'm left handed, and when my support hand thumb came in contact with the bar, it'd disable the trigger.
Here's what I did:

13# LTT hammer spring.
Polished the factory trigger bar contact points with MAS metal polish to a mirror finish, polished the sides and bottom of the hammer where it contacts to the bar.
Light lubrication to all contact points.
The result is 100% ignition, and a DA trigger that is about HALF of the factory 92x trigger.  SA is considerably better as well.
Perhaps the only other thingI'd do is install the Wilson trigger spring module thingy.

Wilson trigger thingy.

I put chrome silicon trigger return springs in. That doo-hickey looks interesting though

I would recommend that you not bother with the Wilson trigger spring dingus.  I tried the reduced power version when I did my first Beretta 92 trigger job.  Initially I installed it as it came from the package.  I'd already polished everything else up prior to installing the trigger dingus, so the trigger was smooth.  The TCU turned it into a gritty, inconsistent POS.  Kind of Like an old S&W Sigma, but lighter.  Yes, I was using a steel trigger, not the plastic coated one.

The sides of the TCU housing were rough, so I took it out and smoothed the sides up and polished them, as well as the insides of the pocket in the trigger.  This made a marginal improvement, but the plunger in the TCU still wanted to bind in the housing when the trigger was pulled.  I used polishing compound in the interface between the plunger and housing and cycled it a bunch of times.  It was pretty much a mirror when I finished.  Back in the gun...... still crap.  Switched back to the original style trigger return spring and was back to sub-6lb DA trigger bliss.

I think the design of the TCU is flawed.  If you look at the geometry of the Beretta trigger system and the TCU, pulling the trigger will induce a small bending moment on the plunger of the TCU, which will make the housing and plunger tend to bind up.  I wasted a couple hours trying salvage mine.  If you're concerned about trigger return spring breakage I'd recommend using the Wilson Chrome Silicon springs and changing them out from time to time.

Yeah I wouldnt trust it. Chrome Silicon springs and have a few replacements.

Just a data point: I have a 92X compact. I put a "Trigger job in a bag" with a match hammer in with no problems (other than that damned sear spring) or fitting required.
Well worth the money.

The LTT trigger bar may need fitting. It's not a drop-in part. Watch their LATEST video on how to fix this. Please make sure you watch the newest video and not just "a" video on their site.