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I’m going to clean these up. Learn how to do a trigger job. And polish them up too.
I got one more. They were a gift from my dad for my kids. Any recommendations for stones to buy? |
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Wait, you mean I'm not supposed to squirt WD40 into the frame every time I clean it?
Just kidding, those should clean up fine. I've found the "Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube" works miracles on old gummed up revolvers. |
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After you clean up the -4 just a spot of moly on the sliding parts and stay away with the stones. If you have to have it less reliable, drop in an set of apex springs.
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My grandpa’s OHP service revolver had an issue, I fixed it by putting it in a box and sending it to Karl Sokol. Worked like a champ.
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Good deal OP.
I've got 2 m64s set aside for my kids too. I've also got 2 ammo cans full of ammo, speed loaders, and a couple pouches set aside for when they move out. |
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Nice job op. Did you fully disassemble it or just remove the side plate and go from there?
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Smiths are relatively easy to take apart. I’ve never stoned any of mine. Good clean, a spot of moly here and there and they’re good to go. I generally don’t bother with spring kits. Done it a time or but but had light strikes.
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Don't play with stones! Without proper jigs, and proper know-how, you are guaranteed to dork it up.
I have never seen a before and after from using an ultra-sound. Nice to see it works well. That said, learning how to completely remove the innards is not a bad idea, just make sure you watch some competent YouTubers on how to do so. Then, as the above poster said, nice moly grease on the contact surfaces before reassembly. |
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Quoted: Don't play with stones! Without proper jigs, and proper know-how, you are guaranteed to dork it up. I have never seen a before and after from using an ultra-sound. Nice to see it works well. That said, learning how to completely remove the innards is not a bad idea, just make sure you watch some competent YouTubers on how to do so. Then, as the above poster said, nice moly grease on the contact surfaces before reassembly. View Quote |
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Quoted: I generally don’t bother with spring kits. Done it a time or but but had light strikes. View Quote This! When stoning the sides of moving parts, make sure you also slightly radius the edges, and also do the slots in the frame where they slide. I use fine synthetic 'Ruby' stones. They last forever, all of mine were bought back in the late '70s. If you go to MSC, they are extremely expensive, but from eBay, they are quite cheap (from china). Second choice are 'India' stones (aluminum oxide), and available from McMaster-Carr. India stones |
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Quoted: Don't play with stones! Without proper jigs, and proper know-how, you are guaranteed to dork it up. I have never seen a before and after from using an ultra-sound. Nice to see it works well. That said, learning how to completely remove the innards is not a bad idea, just make sure you watch some competent YouTubers on how to do so. Then, as the above poster said, nice moly grease on the contact surfaces before reassembly. View Quote That's dumb Don't stone the sear. Stone the sides of the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide. Make it like butter |
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Quoted: That's dumb Don't stone the sear. Stone the sides of the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide. Make it like butter View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Don't play with stones! Without proper jigs, and proper know-how, you are guaranteed to dork it up. I have never seen a before and after from using an ultra-sound. Nice to see it works well. That said, learning how to completely remove the innards is not a bad idea, just make sure you watch some competent YouTubers on how to do so. Then, as the above poster said, nice moly grease on the contact surfaces before reassembly. That's dumb Don't stone the sear. Stone the sides of the hammer, trigger, and rebound slide. Make it like butter This. Rebound slide, polish, use a good moly lube (Brownells action lube) and an apex spring kit. Be careful to properly re-instal the hand/pawl spring, there a little bend on the base that clips into the tiny hole at the base, tensions the pawl so it presses forward into the slot in the recoil shield and engages the cylinder. |
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Get you the slowest wadcutters you can find, OP. Or some .38 Colt loads.
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Quoted: Call GT distributors. They have a Dallas and Austin location. These came from the Dallas location sometime last year. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Are there any trade in Smiths still available? Call GT distributors. They have a Dallas and Austin location. These came from the Dallas location sometime last year. I found a model 65 at guns.com right after posting that. It's on it's way to my dealer now. |
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The hammer on your 64-4 is definitely hard chrome plated from the factory, the 64-8 may also be hard chrome plated. Don't bother to stone the sides of the hammer, the chrome is almost as hard as your ruby stones and has the proper finish to hold a little oil to properly lubricate the the hammer. You shouldn't have any burrs on the hammer edges as they were polished before hard chrome plating was put on.
S&W started using the hard chrome plating of carbon steel hammers and triggers after they found that an all stainless steel revolver had terrible trigger pulls due to the sear surfaces galling on each other. |
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Quoted: The hammer on your 64-4 is definitely hard chrome plated from the factory, the 64-8 may also be hard chrome plated. Don't bother to stone the sides of the hammer, the chrome is almost as hard as your ruby stones and has the proper finish to hold a little oil to properly lubricate the the hammer. You shouldn't have any burrs on the hammer edges as they were polished before hard chrome plating was put on. S&W started using the hard chrome plating of carbon steel hammers and triggers after they found that an all stainless steel revolver had terrible trigger pulls due to the sear surfaces galling on each other. View Quote Good info. Thank you |
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Quoted: What's wrong with CC? I like the look of that 64-6. You enablers.... View Quote Here you go: https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-MAC-Military-Arms-Channel-Hungarian-SVD-cluster--/5-2435064/?page=1 |
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Clean them up and try them before getting "stoned." You will likely find them to be slick as snot on a door knob.
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Quoted: Here you go: https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-MAC-Military-Arms-Channel-Hungarian-SVD-cluster--/5-2435064/?page=1 View Quote Yeah I sent him a message asking what condition they are in and if I could pay extra for hand-select. Crickets. I know its not a high-dollar purchase, but i tend to go back to places that have good customer service; I think a lot of retailers have forgotten about that shit. |
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Had a Police trade 64 a few years back and sold it. Wish I would have kept it, solid guns for the money and they appear to have jumped in price from when I bought mine.
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Quoted: After you clean up the -4 just a spot of moly on the sliding parts and stay away with the stones. If you have to have it less reliable, drop in an set of apex springs. View Quote This is spot on. It’s incredibly hard to do a good trigger job on a S&W revolver and incredibly easy to screw one up. |
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Quoted: I found an NHSP marked 66 no dash last year at a shop here. You bet I snatched it up. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Are there any trade in Smiths still available? I found an NHSP marked 66 no dash last year at a shop here. You bet I snatched it up. There are a bunch on GB. I got tired of looking locally, putting out feelers, etc. and broke down and bought two from GB. I found the exact models I wanted and reached out to a seller who had several listings. He gave me a price for two shipped and I jumped on it. A week later they were at my FFL. I was planning to drive straight from there to a local gunsmith for a cleaning and bead-blast, or some other refinish, but they were in much better condition than I was expecting. They'll get the internals cleaned at some point and some nice grips, but otherwise I'm happy with them as received. I can send the guy's info to anyone interested; I was fully satisfied with our transaction, the guns, and highly recommend him. |
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I have been shooting S&W revolvers for 40+ years, and none have ever needed any internal work to function just fine. I am admittedly not a trigger snob, and always found them at least adequate ( which I can live with just fine) to superb. It may also be since with only a couple exceptions bought older used guns that they had smoothed up over time before I got them. I don’t even mind a stock glock trigger.
Keep in mind heavy or gritty but reliable is better than light smooth and unreliable |
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I found a very good specimen a month or so ago.
I did a detail strip take down and deep cleaning. A little fresh moly grease. It is still a touch rough. Gun looks like it was barely ever shot from the lack of wear in on the inside. A few light light scuffs from carry. I suppose I could buff it up with a little Flitz polish. I will say I like the lighter barrels a touch better for balance. I also prefer the model 15 adjustable sights mostly because they sit a touch higher and are a bit squarer. Don’t have a M15. To me they are the perfect .38 special in a 4” gun. The fixed sight m64 is a gun to endure though. |
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Quoted: Back when Centerfire Systems was selling the former Michigan State Police S&W 640 backup guns for dirt cheap I bought two. Stripped them both down to clean and lube them. One was bone dry and very clean inside. I expect it was only fired at qualy with no real practice rounds. https://images2.imgbox.com/ea/78/xEpB06IO_o.jpg The other was bone dry and filthy. Whoever had this one shot it a fair bit. https://images2.imgbox.com/0c/7f/9kmbkzbp_o.jpg After cleaning. https://images2.imgbox.com/23/e4/4OSghu3P_o.jpg I picked up a surplus M64-3 from AIM a while back. Shoots great but I still have not stripped it down to clean. Need to do that someday soon. Got all three of these for $349/ea. https://images2.imgbox.com/83/28/o1d3VhXl_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/79/40/g8YzZ3Ey_o.jpg View Quote |
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