

Posted: 10/1/2023 5:33:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: PolarBear416]
But I want one, just for the fun of it. Probably will be the only revolver I own. Recommend me something.
My thoughts at far: Will mostly be a range toy but I'd like to be able to at least open carry it, so not a freaking huge gun and around 4 inch barrel seems a good length for open carry while keeping some accuracy. Would be nice if I can make it a little dressy by putting on some nice grips. Maybe a high polish classic look since this will be for fun and show. Willing to consider anything but what I have spent the most time looking at are 2020 pythons, 686's and gp100's. Willing to spend python money if the gun is worth it. With the 686 the Hillary hole really bugs me, wondering about an older one but would want vg to excellent condition. ETA - I don't really know what I'm talking about with revolvers so educate me |
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[#1]
Just grab a Python, the new ones are very nice from what I have seen.
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[#2]
I'd recommend the 686 with or without the hole. If with the hole you can get a plug kit.
The 686 and 629's (.44's) and my favorite and I have a few of them. I have a harder to fine 686-5 7-shot I've been considering letting go. The rest are the standard 6 shot. I add a simple $20 spring kit to most of my Smiths which make the DA pull amazing. The Ruger's are also nice. ![]() |
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[#4]
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Those that can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.
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[#5]
Originally Posted By DuneShoot: I'd recommend the 686 with or without the hole. If with the hole you can get a plug kit. The 686 and 629's (.44's) and my favorite and I have a few of them. I have a harder to fine 686-5 7-shot I've been considering letting go. The rest are the standard 6 shot. I add a simple $20 spring kit to most of my Smiths which make the DA pull amazing. The Ruger's are also nice. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_8110_jpg-2973010.JPG View Quote What and where is the hole and why is it a negative? I have a few SWs and this is new to me. |
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[#6]
If you don't need a revolver but want a revolver then I suggest either going big (44MAG, 454 Casull, etc.) or getting a 22 rimfire. In the latter case, I suggest a single action like a Ruger Single Six, because if you get a DA 22 kit gun, you might find out you do need a revolver.
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[#7]
Originally Posted By jimmybcool: What and where is the hole and why is it a negative? I have a few SWs and this is new to me. View Quote Not sure if you're serious. S&W added a locking system to their revolvers during the Clinton administration. Look at my pictures above, it's just above the cylinder release. It's an eyesore to many, doesn't bother me as much. There were a few stories of the lock self engaging, I've never had an issue with it. |
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Please help St Jude children's hospital.
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[Last Edit: PolarBear416]
[#8]
Originally Posted By Bellows1: Not sure if you're serious. S&W added a locking system to their revolvers during the Clinton administration. Look at my pictures above, it's just above the cylinder release. It's an eyesore to many, doesn't bother me as much. There were a few stories of the lock self engaging, I've never had an issue with it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Bellows1: Originally Posted By jimmybcool: What and where is the hole and why is it a negative? I have a few SWs and this is new to me. Not sure if you're serious. S&W added a locking system to their revolvers during the Clinton administration. Look at my pictures above, it's just above the cylinder release. It's an eyesore to many, doesn't bother me as much. There were a few stories of the lock self engaging, I've never had an issue with it. I'm sure it's not a technical problem, S&W have had decades to resolve any mechanical issues. I just don't want to be reminded of fucking Hilary Clinton every time I look at my gun. Might as well have her face engraved on it I'd probably look for a vg to excellent 686 on GunJoker if I go that way, or wait for one to turn up at the LGS. That's a plus for Colt or Ruger since in that case I can buy a new one. |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: I'm sure it's not a technical problem, S&W have had decades to resolve any mechanical issues. I just don't want to be reminded of fucking Hilary Clinton every time I look at my gun. Might as well have her face engraved on it I'd probably look for a vg to excellent 686 on GunJoker if I go that way, or wait for one to turn up at the LGS. That's a plus for Colt or Ruger since in that case I can buy a new one. View Quote It has been a problem with J frames shooting heavy bullet weights. S&W produces “no-lock” J frame models as a result. |
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[#10]
High polish classic equals a blue steel gun, older used is my preference, so for me an old S&W K or N frame
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[#11]
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[#13]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: But I want one, just for the fun of it. Probably will be the only revolver I own. Recommend me something. My thoughts at far: Will mostly be a range toy but I'd like to be able to at least open carry it, so not a freaking huge gun and around 4 inch barrel seems a good length for open carry while keeping some accuracy. Would be nice if I can make it a little dressy by putting on some nice grips. Maybe a high polish classic look since this will be for fun and show. Willing to consider anything but what I have spent the most time looking at are 2020 pythons, 686's and gp100's. Willing to spend python money if the gun is worth it. With the 686 the Hillary hole really bugs me, wondering about an older one but would want vg to excellent condition. ETA - I don't really know what I'm talking about with revolvers so educate me View Quote I have owned a GP100 for nearly 20 years now and couldn't be more happy with it. Highly recommended. The new Pythons look great and I will probably get one eventually, although it will be an addition to my GP100, not a replacement. ![]() As far as the S&W 686 goes, historically they are very solid guns, but in my experience S&W quality control continues to decline and most of their revolvers leave the factory with manufacturing defects these days. The two most common defects are a canted barrel (barrel either over tightened or under tightened into the frame, causing the front sight post to not be perfectly even/centered) and uneven or excessive barrel to cylinder gap. Finish issues and unsightly tooling marks are also very common. In short, if you decide to go with S&W, inspect the gun VERY carefully before filling out any paperwork. |
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[NO TEXT]
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[#14]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: But I want one, just for the fun of it. Probably will be the only revolver I own. Recommend me something. My thoughts at far: Will mostly be a range toy but I'd like to be able to at least open carry it, so not a freaking huge gun and around 4 inch barrel seems a good length for open carry while keeping some accuracy. Would be nice if I can make it a little dressy by putting on some nice grips. Maybe a high polish classic look since this will be for fun and show. Willing to consider anything but what I have spent the most time looking at are 2020 pythons, 686's and gp100's. Willing to spend python money if the gun is worth it. With the 686 the Hillary hole really bugs me, wondering about an older one but would want vg to excellent condition. ETA - I don't really know what I'm talking about with revolvers so educate me View Quote Get something with 5" or more barrel you wont regret it. They make plug kits for hillary hole. If you are DA only shooter I suggest S&W. |
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[#15]
Originally Posted By jimmybcool: Thanks. Yes I was serious. I had heard some mention of "holes' before but never took the few seconds to find out what it was about. Now I know and I know it doesn't effect me. https://i.imgur.com/W8i1KTw.jpg View Quote Yeah you have what I would buy if I choose 686. I wish they would just remove the damn lock. |
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[#16]
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[Last Edit: SiVisPacem]
[#17]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: Yeah you have what I would buy if I choose 686. I wish they would just remove the damn lock. View Quote That lock is here to stay, I'm afraid. S&W getting rid of it would be like Ford saying they're doing away with airbags. Luckily, there are a ton of pre-2001 686's out there for you. You should have no trouble finding one in excellent condition. Just be prepared to pay $1,000-$1,200 for it. ETA: My 4" 686-2 above my 3" 696 (.44 SPL). ![]() |
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I will not compromise!
Ne Desit Virtus (Let Valor Not Fail) - Rakkasan! "Life is fucking hard. Either get used to taking a few lumps like the rest of us, or buy a fucking helmet and crawl into a corner somewhere." -Me |
[#18]
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I tried that whole cancer thing. It wasn't for me. Good Riddance.
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[#19]
I have a GP100 but what about a Single Action Only?
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[#20]
Out of the gate, probably a new Colt or a 686. The Colt will look more flashy, it'll also cost more.
The 686 is a great option, I think it looks better than the others. Factory S&W triggers are pretty good. The Gp100 is great, but not that flashy, it's more of a working mans revolver. Trigger is meh out of the box, needs a spring kit to make it decent. |
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[#21]
Taurus judge
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Silent Brigade 1-20-20
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[#22]
Originally Posted By SDGlock23: Out of the gate, probably a new Colt or a 686. The Colt will look more flashy, it'll also cost more. The 686 is a great option, I think it looks better than the others. Factory S&W triggers are pretty good. The Gp100 is great, but not that flashy, it's more of a working mans revolver. Trigger is meh out of the box, needs a spring kit to make it decent. View Quote I will probably go with a Colt. I wish the Model 66 was a bright stainless instead of matte. Maybe a Model 19. |
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[#23]
I carry a j frame often. It conceals well and I am decent with it, but I am more accurate and faster with a semi 9mm.
If you haven’t really considered a revolver in the past, it’s not going to do anything better for you now. If it’s a range toy, get whatever you want. It’ll get used for the first two weeks and then sit in the back of the safe for the next eternity. Until you decide to sell it, low round count. |
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Words fall from your mouth like shit from ass.
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[Last Edit: PolarBear416]
[#24]
Originally Posted By Steamedliver: I carry a j frame often. It conceals well and I am decent with it, but I am more accurate and faster with a semi 9mm. If you haven’t really considered a revolver in the past, it’s not going to do anything better for you now. If it’s a range toy, get whatever you want. It’ll get used for the first two weeks and then sit in the back of the safe for the next eternity. Until you decide to sell it, low round count. View Quote It'll be a range toy, and my open carry gun, which is probably annually or something. I usually iwb a p365 and I don't see that changing. |
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[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#25]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: It'll be a range toy, and my open carry gun, which is probably annually or something. I usually iwb a p365 and I don't see that changing. View Quote We had a guy show up to night pistol shooting class with a j frame. BANG BNAG BNAG BANG BANG *clinking noise* 10 seconds passes *some more clinging noises* 8 seconds passes *clinking noises* BANG BANG CLICK BANG CLICK And this is how I learned that I need to know how to operate my handguns in complete darkness. If you think your first time with your higschool sweetheart in moonless night was awkward try stuffing 38 cases in a j frame under time and pressure with no lights. |
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[#27]
Originally Posted By hkcavalier: I would go with the new Python (4.25" or 5"), and I'm a huge S&W fan. It's not a perfect revolver, the SA is overly heavy to meet CA standards, and the rear sight design is not very great. The stainless on these new Colts is really remarkable. It's harder than the steel of my gunsmith screwdrivers. And the polish is top notch. https://i.imgur.com/Eo6kFpE.jpg But for a little less, you can get a somewhat uglier but 8 shot S&W 627. https://i.imgur.com/9ra8iHV.jpg?1 View Quote I beat my 627 like a rented mule who owes me money and is also my redheaded stepchild. It can take a LOT of rounds and dry fire. |
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[#28]
If you decide to get a S&W, at least get a pre-HH model. My policy on S&W wheelguns is simple: I NEVER buy or trade for one with the dreaded HH. Don’t care about the price. Just seeing that fucked-up HH kills the desire.
That said, Ruger’s Security Six and Service Six revolvers are very nice in an Old School way. I have a blue 2.75” Police Serv. Six in .357 mag. The original grips are supplemented by a Tyler T-grip. It’s a great little carry snubby and doesn’t get the Smith-style cylinder rattle after shooting a few boxes hot magnum ammo. Best of all, …. it’s got no HH. Win/win right there. ![]() |
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[Last Edit: JTMcC]
[#29]
Originally Posted By Nick_Adams: If you decide to get a S&W, at least get a pre-HH model. My policy on S&W wheelguns is simple: I NEVER buy or trade for one with the dreaded HH. Don’t care about the price. Just seeing that fucked-up HH kills the desire. That said, Ruger’s Security Six and Service Six revolvers are very nice in an Old School way. I have a blue 2.75” Police Serv. Six in .357 mag. The original grips are supplemented by a Tyler T-grip. It’s a great little carry snubby and doesn’t get the Smith-style cylinder rattle after shooting a few boxes hot magnum ammo. Best of all, …. it’s got no HH. Win/win right there. ![]() View Quote What S&W .357 do you have personal experience with "Smith style cylinder rattle after shooting a few boxes of hot magnum ammo"??? I have tried, seriously, to loosen up multiple L-frame S&W's with handloaded max loads. None have "cylinder rattle" after thousands of true top end 357 handloads. ETA: shoot me a link with those "Ruger only" 357 loads. I've also tried to shoot loose a Ruger Blackhawk in 357, again, no better luck than with the L-frame Smith. Enlighten me. Personal experience only, not what you've read please ![]() |
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[#30]
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[#31]
Originally Posted By Nick_Adams: If you decide to get a S&W, at least get a pre-HH model. My policy on S&W wheelguns is simple: I NEVER buy or trade for one with the dreaded HH. Don’t care about the price. Just seeing that fucked-up HH kills the desire. That said, Ruger’s Security Six and Service Six revolvers are very nice in an Old School way. I have a blue 2.75” Police Serv. Six in .357 mag. The original grips are supplemented by a Tyler T-grip. It’s a great little carry snubby and doesn’t get the Smith-style cylinder rattle after shooting a few boxes hot magnum ammo. Best of all, …. it’s got no HH. Win/win right there. ![]() View Quote Yeah I have my eye on gunjoker. With the Ruger S6 in particular I would wonder about being able to repair it. 686 no concern it's still so common. |
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[#32]
Originally Posted By PolarBear416: Yeah I have my eye on gunjoker. With the Ruger S6 in particular I would wonder about being able to repair it. 686 no concern it's still so common. View Quote There are parts out there, and some gunsmiths capable. Few months ago I put a drunk bid in on a Security Six that had some pretty low res pics on it. Ended up being the only bidder and got it cheap. Got the gun and while mechanically in great shape it had some bubba'd incorrect grips on it. To further complicate matters the early (150 series) guns has a slightly different grip and were only made for a few years before being changed. It took months of surfing ebay to find original factory grips, and when I did they were $50. Gun has a nice patina, and shoots very nicely. It's built like a tank for sure. |
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[#33]
I just bought a 6-inch Python today. I was intending to get a 4 inch, but there was something about the 6 inch I couldn't resist.
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Author of Contact Front, Glory Boy, Wholesale Slaughter and other military science fiction.
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[#34]
The standard answer to “one revolver” is a 4” 686 or 586.
It sounds like you might like a 3” Python. There’s nothing wrong with the Ruger, it’s just more fuddy. |
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Distinguished
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[#35]
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[#36]
Originally Posted By jimmybcool: We can always use a couple extra inches. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jimmybcool: Originally Posted By RikWriter: I just bought a 6-inch Python today. I was intending to get a 4 inch, but there was something about the 6 inch I couldn't resist. We can always use a couple extra inches. That's what she said... |
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Author of Contact Front, Glory Boy, Wholesale Slaughter and other military science fiction.
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[#37]
I had a similar don't need, and I filled it with a 4" Model 29. Great stuff, it comes with me just about any time I go to the range.
When used with slightly hotter loads, it's very handy for clearing the sinuses on an indoor range. |
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[#38]
I'm Partial to N frames. How about a TRR8 or the 627 Pro series.
https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/performance-center-model-327-trr8 https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/n-frame-178014 |
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[#39]
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[#40]
Originally Posted By 1MRBEAN: I'm really happy with my Colt King Cobra 3 inch barrel. Smaller than a S@W K frame . And this Colt has a smooth and lite action. 8lbs DA and 2lbs SA. I get slightly smaller readings when i really concentrate on using the pull gauge. https://i.imgur.com/BCQLuuO.jpg View Quote I have both the 3" and 4" version, plus a custom 3" Detective Special barreled Colt Agent framed gun. You might not have a revolver, and you think you don't need one...but I hate to say that you're wrong, but you are. |
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Dave Funk
President; Iowa Firearms Coalition. |
[#41]
I love the GP100 and the S&W is a great gun but if I were going to buy my first and potentially only .357 mag revolver, I would 1000% pick the 4" Colt Python. Excellent gun and it looks phenomenal in stainless. I'd like to add one to the collection someday.
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[#42]
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[#43]
Some Beautiful wheel guns in here
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[#44]
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[#45]
I wanted a wheel gun but I knew if I got something like a 686 or something along those lines that I’d never use it and it would sit and collect dust until I eventually sold it. For this reason I bought a S&W 340PD. I figured if it was small enough it would eventually be used as a back up or a deep concealment gun. What has actually happened is that it has given me an option outside of my P365 Micro as a quick run to the store gun. The nice thing is the 340PD is very light. That is also one of its draw backs. Shooting it is punishing. Even using cheap PMC .38 battle packs begin to suck after a couple of cylinders. I’ve fired a few cylinders off .357 just to see what it was like. It was like a howitzer going off in your hand with all the noise and fireball you’d expect. Very festive.
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[#46]
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[#47]
Get a 586 or 686. Although there are a million old .38s around. An old .38 service size revolver can still sometimes be found cheap.
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“You read too many books”-ATF agent
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[Last Edit: USMC_JA]
[#48]
Pre-Hilllary Hole 686 or Python will serve you very well.
You might jump on this one. Good price and great seller. No affiliation. https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/1999-smith-wesson-pre-lock-686-5-lnib.216113/#post-3169259 |
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"Have a smile for breakfast, you'll be shitting joy by lunch.” - Joe Abercrombie
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[Last Edit: MS556]
[#49]
Pre-Clinton Model 36 S&W Chief Special steel J-frame, blued steel. Snub nose done right.
Solid, compact concealed carry. Can handle +P (although S&W lawyers demur). If you don't need a revolver, this is one you can 100% rely on when you realize you do need one. Mine dates from the early '80s. I have several other handguns, all semi-auto. But, if my life were on the line and I needed a concealed carry at close range, I'd want this in my jacket pocket. |
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[#50]
I have a bunch of revolvers. When I host some range days for work they are always a popular item as people have fun shooting revolvers. I own a few old Rugers, Colts, and a newer GP100. The Ruger Single Sixes are usually the most popular.
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