Trying to decide if I should put the standard AEK kit in my new 2.0 or try the forward set sear with the flat faced trigger. I have the standard AEK kit in my 1.0s but the flat faced trigger looks interesting.

I really like the forward set sear kit alot. Best all around striker fire trigger on the planet in my opinion.

Does the trigger pull end up too light for carry? I always thought the forward set trigger gave a pull weight that was suggested to be too light for carry?

ETA. Do you still need to adjust the candy cane loop on the trigger bar? When I installed the kits on my 1.0 guns the videos all talked about adjusting the trigger bar loop for proper timing but on the videos I've been watching to get refreshed on the system it doesn't mention anything about having to check that.

I went with the standard trigger. I was reading the description on the forward set flat trigger and it sounded like it increased the reach a bit which I don't want with my short fingers.

The AEK lightens and smooths the trigger pull, but retains the OEM pull length and hinged trigger. The FSS lightens and SHORTENS the trigger pull, and replaces the trigger with a Glock-type lever in the trigger blade face.

As for which to carry, that’s up to your risk tolerance. The shorter travel of the FSS trigger makes it easier to shoot fast and accurately (good if you need to shoot a bad guy) but also increases the risk of an AD (trigger discipline breakdown under stress, reholstering accident etc.). The trigger blade shape - curved vs flat - is insignificant in a self-defense context... you will never notice the difference.

I’ve been shooting M&P pistols with Apex DCAEK and FSS triggers for many years in IPSC/USPSA and 3-Gun competition - I am extremely confident in my shooting ability and trigger discipline under stress. However, NONE of my daily carry guns have the FSS trigger. The DCAEK or even the stock trigger are entirely adequate, and both offer the safety margin I feel is needed in a gun that is carried all day every day.

The 2.0 does not have the candy cane loop. No adjustment needed.

That's good to know. I hated getting the loop set properly on my 1.0s.

Do you know if most of the other parts on the gun are interchangeable between the two generations? I have a bunch of spare parts I bought when I first got into the guns and it would be nice if most of them will work for the newer guns.

I agree.

The frame, FCG, slide and barrel are all different. Some minor internal parts may carry over from 1.0 to 2.0 (maybe in the striker assy?), but the only part I've tried has been the interchangeable backstrap - I put the rougher 2.0 backstraps on my 1.0 match guns (but you need to use a 2.0 retainer). It could be the only other parts that interchange are the sights and magazines. My high-mileage match guns are all 1.0s so the parts I have accumulated still have value, but I've had so few breakages over the years that I've not bothered to inventory spares for my 2.0s yet.

Forgot to ask, you guys using extra power striker springs? I got the AEK kit in today and after installing it I was comparing the pull between the two guns and the striker on the 1.0 seems to snap harder than the 2.0. I'm starting to wonder if I installed an extra power striker spring in that gun, I faintly remember people saying they were doing that for better primer hits.

Trigger is much better than stock. I reused the stock trigger return spring because I remember it gives a little lighter pull than the spring that comes with the Apex kit.

I do have one quirk though, sometimes when I cycle the slide with the trigger forward I get a click during the take up. I figured out it is the trigger bar rubbing on the sear release, sometimes either the sear release drops down a bit or the trigger bar comes up and they rub. I've been able to replicate it if I pull the trigger bar towards the frame and up. IF I hold the trigger back while the slide cycles(which will happen during live fire)it will not do it. I'm going to put the factory sear back in and see if it still does it so I can figure out if it's the Apex sear or not. Maybe it just needs to be shot to smooth things out.

ETA. Put the stock sear back in and the quirk doesn't happen so I wonder if the Apex sear is out of spec?  I'm going to call tomorrow and see what they say. I also launched the sear spring plunger into orbit when swapping parts back so now I have to wait on a replacement before I can even shoot the gun.