How are you liking the apex trigger? Is reset improved any?

Yes, very good upgrade.

Necessary?

I don't know, but I bowed down to peer pressure.

I don't remember what the reset was like with the factory trigger but the trigger itself sucked.

The Apex was a huge improvement imo.

The Apex trigger improves all aspects of the 509 trigger. The take up is shorter, the wall is slightly more distinct, the break is more crisp and the reset is a little shorter. The biggest change is the break weight is significantly lighter. My stock 509 trigger was breaking at 7.5 pounds. The apex knocked it down to 5 pounds even with all the improvements I listed earlier.

The downside to the Apex 509 trigger is that it is not cheap nor easy to install. The locking block pin is extremely tight and some guys have even completely snapped their 509 frames in half trying to get the pin out. Watch the installation videos on Apex's youtube channel, get the 509 frame jig if you can and have a replacement pin on hand in case your's get bent.  

The bottom line is this: If your trigger is as heavy as mine was, the Apex kit is probably worth it. If your trigger breaks at a weight that is acceptable to you, I probably wouldn't bother.

Yes.  I have the apex curved in mine and the apex striker.  The trigger pull is more better.  Not 1911 better or anything.

You're not going to get an Apex triggered FNS or FN509 to compare to and Apex triggered M&P.  Won't happen - not for pull weight.  It's the design of the trigger/sear function.

The M&P slide goes forward, the sear catches the striker and holds it.  When you pull the trigger the sear rotates downwards at the back to release the striker.  My 2.0 5" M&P started off at 3.0 lbs. after the Apex install and has worn into a nearly 2&3/4 lb. awesomely clean/crisp break.

With the FN design the slide goes forward and the sear catches the striker.  But (the big but) is the sear is forward of were it was when it released the striker to fire the pistol.  When you pull the trigger for the next shot the sear (the whole thing) moves to the rear to further cock the striker, before it starts to rotate downwards at the rear to release the striker.  So the FN design uses the trigger to put increased compression on the striker spring to move the striker fast/hard enough to set off the primer of the round in the chamber.

I have no idea if that's required to move that big as striker fast/hard enough to ignite the primer or if they did it to make the trigger pull heavier so as to make the gun more appealing to LE Departments since those pistols will never have a light, or "hair" trigger.

Not saying the FN design is bad.  It is different.  It's not so bad if you practice enough with it to get used to it.  The FNS has so many features I like I'd carry the damn thing if I could get it to shoot groups like my P07 does.  I keep looking at those new 5" FN509s but I hate to put the money into another pistol that won't meet my group size expectations.

I have a buddy with a couple FNS pistols he put Apex triggers in and he says the difference is night and day for how the trigger pull feels after the kit install.  So go for it.  Just be aware of the install issues (go to the Apex website and check out their videos/advice.

I love mine, I agree with some of the other sentiments on here though. Is it necessary? No but it does feel good and operates flawlessly!

Finally found a curved Apex for my 509 Tactical...can’t decide if I want to go at the install without the jig though. Seems 50/50 on people’s experience with or without it being easy enough.

I did it without the jig mainly because the jigs were not available at the time.

I watched a few videos, mainly videos on the Apex website and used their technique.

It was a bit unnerving given the amount of force that was necessary to drive out the unlock block pin.

The possibility of damaging the frame is real from what I have heard. You need to be really careful about supporting the frame in the area around the pin and making sure you keeping the (correct size) punch positioned correctly and aligned with the pin. Also make sure you drive the pin out and back in in the right direction.

The rest of it was not too bad but a bit tedious.

I made a video of my experience. I'm not much good at making videos but you can get an idea of what is was like for a non gunsmith doing it for the first time.

I saw your video, gave me a bit more confidence...I’ve got the trigger on the way, so if I don’t get hold of a jig I’m going to just give it a go. Not too worried about the sear and all, just that one pin. Thanks!

Where’d you find a trigger at in stock?? I’d like to buy one

My brother picked one up for me at some gun store near/around Ft Bragg and sent it to me.

I did mine without the jig; just used a roll of tape for support.  The Apex video is pretty good.  I was a little nervous about getting the pin out, but didn't have any problems.  Just go slow, follow the instructions, and make sure everything is lined up and well supported.  The rest of the job is easy, especially if you have the video open while doing it.

I bought the trigger and the striker from APEX but I haven't installed them yet.

I like flat triggers too
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I ordered up the Apex trigger for my 509 Tactical  I then find out I need to remove 3 of the pins, and one off the pins apparently is a nightmare to get in and out.

Did those of you that had the trigger replaced on your 509 do it yourself or have a gunsmith do it?   If you did it yourself is there a trick or isn't it as bad as it sounds?

Thanks in advance,

BTW I got the Freedom version,

I installed a APEX in mine but I bought their jig. The locking block pin is in really tight. Several wacks with a larger hammer than I normally use on firearms. They also recommend a new pin on reassembly. It's not hard with the proper tools. If you don't want to purchase the jig I would have someone that has the jig do the work.

Trigger is good upgrade; Apex barrel turned out even better.

ETA: replaced the striker with Apex too; the OE was starting to bend after 500 or so rounds.