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Posted: 2/25/2018 1:42:40 AM EDT
Specifically Trijicon HD rear sights.

I need a file or stone. What do you all recommend. I have a sight pusher. Sight went in at an angle because of the jump on the front. That’s what I need to shave down before attempting reinstallation.

I’ll probably order off Amazon. I just don’t know what exactly I should be looking for. Thanks!
Link Posted: 2/25/2018 9:18:56 AM EDT
[#1]
I had files and a stone when I had to fit a front sight that was a few degrees off on the dovetail.    I learned quickly the stone would only polish the metal, the files would remove it.

Brass bars in the vice jaws were perfect for this too.  Just get a couple files.
Link Posted: 2/25/2018 3:20:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I had files and a stone when I had to fit a front sight that was a few degrees off on the dovetail.    I learned quickly the stone would only polish the metal, the files would remove it.

Brass bars in the vice jaws were perfect for this too.  Just get a couple files.
View Quote
Are there different types with different roughness or are they all the same?
Link Posted: 2/25/2018 8:03:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Almost any sight, front or rear will need to be fitted to the dovetail snugly.
Make your adjustment to the bottom flat.
A piece of 220 grit automotive sandpaper taped on a glass block or knife sharpening stone works fine.
Even pressure, oil, and check your progress frequently.  My experience with Trijicon sights is to check after stroke.  The Trijicon sights won't need much material removed before you can push them in safely.

They must be snug/tight or you will have a different problem.  And blue loctite is your friend on any sight install.
Link Posted: 2/26/2018 2:54:16 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Are there different types with different roughness or are they all the same?
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View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I had files and a stone when I had to fit a front sight that was a few degrees off on the dovetail.    I learned quickly the stone would only polish the metal, the files would remove it.

Brass bars in the vice jaws were perfect for this too.  Just get a couple files.
Are there different types with different roughness or are they all the same?
There are along with differences in material for the stones.

Stones often go by the generic 'ceramic' name and are mostly rather fine (higher grit numbers).

Files go from Bastard to Smooth.

Nicholson has a 'Guide to Filing' floating around in PDF format.
Link Posted: 2/26/2018 4:49:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Thank you everyone for the replies. I've always liked doing my own maintenance on firearms so this is definitely a project I want to attempt.

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Almost any sight, front or rear will need to be fitted to the dovetail snugly.
Make your adjustment to the bottom flat.
A piece of 220 grit automotive sandpaper taped on a glass block or knife sharpening stone works fine.
Even pressure, oil, and check your progress frequently.  My experience with Trijicon sights is to check after stroke.  The Trijicon sights won't need much material removed before you can push them in safely.

They must be snug/tight or you will have a different problem.  And blue loctite is your friend on any sight install.
View Quote
Yeah, the first go round installing from left to right if facing the rear of the slide resulted in the sight going in at an angle and taking a little metal off the rear base along the left side. It's still workable. I just need to take off enough so the slide goes in straight. The front of the sight base has a slight curvature. I'm not in a hurry so I'll order the tools this week and tackle it over this weekend or next.
Link Posted: 2/27/2018 7:58:18 PM EDT
[#6]
Would something like this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6686-6-Inch-Mill-File/dp/B000NPT7A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519775616&sr=8-6&keywords=file

  • tapered rectangular profile finishes lathe work, smooths edges, and sharpens saw teeth and blades

  • Medium-coarse, second-cut grade is ideal for deburring, shaping, and sharpening

  • Single-cut teeth remove material at a slower rate for a smoother finish

  • Large, comfortable poly handle gives you a sure grip for controlled strokes and pressure

  • Versatile shop file can be used on metal, plastic, and wood



Link Posted: 2/28/2018 11:25:26 AM EDT
[#7]
For a one off job, these would do it:
https://m.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/files/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html
Link Posted: 2/28/2018 2:17:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Would something like this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6686-6-Inch-Mill-File/dp/B000NPT7A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519775616&sr=8-6&keywords=file

  • tapered rectangular profile finishes lathe work, smooths edges, and sharpens saw teeth and blades

  • Medium-coarse, second-cut grade is ideal for deburring, shaping, and sharpening

  • Single-cut teeth remove material at a slower rate for a smoother finish

  • Large, comfortable poly handle gives you a sure grip for controlled strokes and pressure

  • Versatile shop file can be used on metal, plastic, and wood



https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61PCZQ4P5sL._SL1500_.jpg
View Quote
Pillar (nn taper) files are usually preferred.
Link Posted: 2/28/2018 3:47:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Pillar (nn taper) files are usually preferred.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Would something like this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6686-6-Inch-Mill-File/dp/B000NPT7A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519775616&sr=8-6&keywords=file

  • tapered rectangular profile finishes lathe work, smooths edges, and sharpens saw teeth and blades

  • Medium-coarse, second-cut grade is ideal for deburring, shaping, and sharpening

  • Single-cut teeth remove material at a slower rate for a smoother finish

  • Large, comfortable poly handle gives you a sure grip for controlled strokes and pressure

  • Versatile shop file can be used on metal, plastic, and wood



https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61PCZQ4P5sL._SL1500_.jpg
Pillar (nn taper) files are usually preferred.
Sorry, man. You're speaking Greek to me. Is the file I posted considered a pillar file? What is an "nn" taper?
Link Posted: 2/28/2018 4:04:42 PM EDT
[#10]
I used a diamond type knife sharpener set from harbor freight. It comes in coarse, medium, and fine.   I completely reprofiled a kensight to change a colt dovetail to a smith and Wesson.  It took a while, but I had no other options. I have also used them to fit automotive glass that was too wide.   These things have really held up for the abuse.  LINK

Link Posted: 3/1/2018 1:14:51 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sorry, man. You're speaking Greek to me. Is the file I posted considered a pillar file? What is an "nn" taper?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Would something like this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6686-6-Inch-Mill-File/dp/B000NPT7A6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519775616&sr=8-6&keywords=file

  • tapered rectangular profile finishes lathe work, smooths edges, and sharpens saw teeth and blades

  • Medium-coarse, second-cut grade is ideal for deburring, shaping, and sharpening

  • Single-cut teeth remove material at a slower rate for a smoother finish

  • Large, comfortable poly handle gives you a sure grip for controlled strokes and pressure

  • Versatile shop file can be used on metal, plastic, and wood



https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61PCZQ4P5sL._SL1500_.jpg
Pillar (nn taper) files are usually preferred.
Sorry, man. You're speaking Greek to me. Is the file I posted considered a pillar file? What is an "nn" taper?
"nn"
is a typo for NO.

As in NO taper.

That is a tapered file. A pillar file is straight on all sides.

Even if one side is round.
The diameter of the side does not change.
Link Posted: 3/2/2018 9:53:57 PM EDT
[#12]
Well, one rear sight ruined.

Not surprised. I expected I would fuck it up.

I wonder if Trijicon will let me buy just the rear sight and send them my slide for install?

I’ll give them a call Monday and see what they say.
Link Posted: 3/3/2018 10:00:50 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Well, one rear sight ruined.

Not surprised. I expected I would fuck it up.

I wonder if Trijicon will let me buy just the rear sight and send them my slide for install?

I’ll give them a call Monday and see what they say.
View Quote
What happened?
Link Posted: 3/5/2018 3:14:49 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

What happened?
View Quote
I'm not an expert in the process of profiling a sight for install.

Long story short: removed too much metal and now the sight just slides freely in the rear sight channel.

I started with filing along the base. After a while the sight was still rotating when I pushed it in (I have a MGW sight pusher that I was using) so I looked at the slide. The top of the slide that makes contact with the sight slopes back and that is where I should have been filing the corresponding surface on the sight instead of the base.



If I had started at the top and left the base alone, it might have worked out. By the time I was done, it was useless.



Hey whatever. It's just money, right?
Link Posted: 3/5/2018 4:14:00 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I'm not an expert in the process of profiling a sight for install.

Long story short: removed too much metal and now the sight just slides freely in the rear sight channel.

I started with filing along the base. After a while the sight was still rotating when I pushed it in (I have a MGW sight pusher that I was using) so I looked at the slide. The top of the slide that makes contact with the sight slopes back and that is where I should have been filing the corresponding surface on the sight instead of the base.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/87517/D1FF0E41-9CC2-4E94-A5E1-C563756AAEB7-472570.jpg

If I had started at the top and left the base alone, it might have worked out. By the time I was done, it was useless.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/87517/9FB72FF7-8D45-4840-A58A-69155E98E49E-472571.jpg

Hey whatever. It's just money, right?
View Quote
Ah, things happen.
You're not done yet.  Flip the sight over on a towel or rubbermaid drawer liner to protect the sight.  A vise works well if you have one.  Take a center punch and dimple the metal bottom of the sight.  2 or 3 or 4 will work fine.  The friction of the dimple will hold the sight+blue loctite.  It works!

Or, cut some shim material from a feeler gauge.  This is what a friend recommended when discussing an old Armscor 1911.  That worked too.

Help
Good advice
Link Posted: 3/6/2018 3:01:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Ah, things happen.
You're not done yet.  Flip the sight over on a towel or rubbermaid drawer liner to protect the sight.  A vise works well if you have one.  Take a center punch and dimple the metal bottom of the sight.  2 or 3 or 4 will work fine.  The friction of the dimple will hold the sight+blue loctite.  It works!

Or, cut some shim material from a feeler gauge.  This is what a friend recommended when discussing an old Armscor 1911.  That worked too.

Help
Good advice
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:

I'm not an expert in the process of profiling a sight for install.

Long story short: removed too much metal and now the sight just slides freely in the rear sight channel.

I started with filing along the base. After a while the sight was still rotating when I pushed it in (I have a MGW sight pusher that I was using) so I looked at the slide. The top of the slide that makes contact with the sight slopes back and that is where I should have been filing the corresponding surface on the sight instead of the base.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/87517/D1FF0E41-9CC2-4E94-A5E1-C563756AAEB7-472570.jpg

If I had started at the top and left the base alone, it might have worked out. By the time I was done, it was useless.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/87517/9FB72FF7-8D45-4840-A58A-69155E98E49E-472571.jpg

Hey whatever. It's just money, right?
Ah, things happen.
You're not done yet.  Flip the sight over on a towel or rubbermaid drawer liner to protect the sight.  A vise works well if you have one.  Take a center punch and dimple the metal bottom of the sight.  2 or 3 or 4 will work fine.  The friction of the dimple will hold the sight+blue loctite.  It works!

Or, cut some shim material from a feeler gauge.  This is what a friend recommended when discussing an old Armscor 1911.  That worked too.

Help
Good advice
Or add set screw (or even two).

There is plenty of room for some UNF (or UNFF) set screws there.

Straight down through the sight to hit the bottom of the dovetail.

File any point on the setscrews flat.
It will have plenty of clamping force and not create a dimple in the metal.

Pointed (even cup point) will limit the ability to re-position the sight.
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