I posted this in the 1911 Discussion Section...Posting Here As Well Since It Is Springfield Specific.

I recently purchased a Springfield Garrison. Beautiful pistol, rock solid and the trigger is amazing. When I reassembled at home after the requisite new purchase field strip, inspect and lube, I noticed a slight irregularity in the finish on the RH side behind the serrations.
I put some Flitz on a microfiber cloth and polished the area, like I have on numerous guns. Of course there was some dark residue on the cloth...always is. The spot I was concerned with looked better so I polished it again a litte longer and with a little more pressure. When I checked it again...the spot was gone...and so was the bluing. Needless to say, I was a little irritated. I have not even shot it yet. I took it to the range...shoots great and no issues.
The spot isn't that bad, just looks like normal carry wear, so I lightly polished all the shiny slide surfaces on the entire slide with Flitz again and tried to blend the bare spot a bit. It blended pretty well. It isn't worth sending the gun back...IMO...to have the finish redone. May even come back worse or with damage from shipping and handling.
Basically my question is about the durability of Hot Salt Bluing. It definitely is not like the traditional bluing found on older Smith or Colt revolvers. Nor is it like the modern finishes on the polymer pistols we all know and carry now. Please educate me...Thanks.

ETA: "Flitz is non-toxic, non-acidic, and non-abrasive, which makes it very safe to use as a strong, effective cleaner on just about any solid surface. Flitz is also great on hard laminates like Formica".

ETA: USE ON: Brass, Copper, Silver-plate, Sterling Silver, Chrome, Stainless Steel, Nickel, Bronze, Solid Gold, Aluminum, Anodized Aluminum, Beryllium, Magnesium, Platinum, Pewter, Factory Hot Gun Bluing, Painted Surfaces, Formica, Cultured Marble and more.

Both statements are from Flitz.com FAQ's section

Attached File


ETA: Finally got a decent pic to upload...here it is.

Bluing is actually a kind of oxidization, aka rust (bluing is Fe3O4 as opposed to red rust, Fe2O3). It'll be just as durable as rust. If you polish on rust you usually remove the rust or at least some of it since true polishes are abrasives that mechanically affect the surface.

Flitz is an abrasive like toothpaste.  Cold blue it and be done.

Yeah...seems to be the general consensus. I'm thinking it won't match if I do that so I probably won't pursue it. It's a carry gun and not a safe queen. Just surprised the finish was that fragile. My older Smith's and Colt's are not.

I’ve followed the directions on Birchwood Casey cold blue and got good results heating the metal with a hair dryer prior to adding the blue.

Good to know. I will keep that in mind if I do pursue the cold bluing. Thank You.

I forgot to mention I cleaned my slide with rubbing alcohol prior to re-blueing.    The blueing matched real good on my Remington 870 and my S&W 439.

Thank's VASCAR...which bluing did you use? I know they make a 'Super Blue' and a 'Perma Blue' formula. I watched a couple vids on YT and the Super worked much faster, but the Perma may allow you to control the shade a bit better. It is a little slower acting on the piece to be blued.

The Birchwood Casey cold blue belonged to a gunsmith friend.  A 3 ounce bottle will last a very long time.   I cleaned my slide with rubbing alcohol then warmed the slide with a hair drier.  I used a cotton swap to apply the blueing.   I think your supposed to wash the area with water after blueing but it’s been several years ago.   Just follow the directions on the cold blue bottle.   I had a trunk leak on a police car and got my issued shotgun wet.   It rusted a little before I caught it.   Getting the rust off left a spot on the receiver.   After using this procedure you really had to look close to see a faint line where the rust had been.   That shotgun passed numerous inspections and was accepted at the armory without notice when I retired.


I think this is the cold blue I used.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1556419877

This is the best Cold Blue I've found.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx

I appreciate the inputs VASCAR and TNZ. I may give this a shot.

It look's like the reviews are a little more positive with the Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.