I'm just about finished with my Dagger  Here is a pic.

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The next thing I want to do is upgrade the trigger.  I do not like the stock trigger.  This gun is purely a range toy.  I'm tempted to get just a regular Glock trigger in some Gucci color and call it good.  Maybe polish it myself.  I'm also tempted to pick up a Timney trigger but I hear they sometimes have issues in Glocks.

What are some of my other options?  Which trigger upgrade did you do and are you happy with it?  If I do go the "stock" route what are some minor upgrades I could do to make it just a little better.  I basically want a crisper trigger with a little less uptake.

I’m curious if you tried the twenty five cent trigger job on your Dagger.   My Dagger trigger is pretty decent now after some use.   A little polishing and shooting make a significant difference to me.

No, not yet.  I'm not a big fan of the hinged trigger so that's one of the main reasons why I want to swap it out.  Does a regular Glock trigger shoe work on the Dagger trigger?

I'm interested in the answer to this question as well.

This thread is relavent to my interests. I have been thinking about changing the connector with something smoother, maybe a 3.5 lb to improve my trigger pull.

I ended up buying a gen 3 trigger assembly from GoToSportsGear.com because they have various Cerakote options.  I got the one with the minus connector to see if I could lighten the trigger pull some.  I put it in and it wouldn't reset properly.  I then removed it and swapped over the trigger, trigger bar and connector and it would reset about 90% of the time.  Every once in a while when releasing my finger to reset it it would "fire" again almost like it was doing a double-tap.  I didn't like this so I took it out and put in the original Dagger connector.  This made it reset 100% of the time and I couldn't reproduce the double-tap issue.  I took it out today and shot about 80 rounds through it and it did well.  The trigger pull is right around 5-6 lbs.

I wish I would have known this trigger was going to be an issue because I could have saved money just buying the trigger and trigger bar Cerakoted in the color I wanted.  Oh well.  They have an eBay store but I ordered directly from their site.

The only thing I might change is getting a flared magwell since my pinky finger gets pinched shooting the Dagger.

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I know I’m a little late OP but I put overwatch precision poly tac trigger shoes on my 2 daggers. Helped a lot, I’m thinking about adding the zev safety plunger and short reset trigger bar now.

I just installed a Timney Alpha trigger on Dagger #4 that I just picked up. Went from 5lb breaks to 2.5! I feels fantastic. Haven't shot it yet, but I hope that they're no issues!

Can you give me link to exact one?

This was one of the ones I was looking at.  It really sounded nice but I couldn't justify spending that on a range gun I probably won't shoot a whole lot.  Now, I might pick one up for my P80 G17 build that I really enjoy shooting.

@gqllc, it was probably this one:
https://timneytriggers.com/alpha-competition-series-for-glock-gen-3-4/

Thanks!

Realize this thread is dead at time of this post, but in case someone is digging around - Found the factory hinge to be total mush, ordered a Johnny Glocks enhanced OEM trigger shoe for $20, easy install, feels awesome

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I went with the Zev Pro trigger in this one.

I just ordered an Aimsurplus trigger and Ghost Angel connector. Can't wait to see if it's makes any difference and is reliable.

I assembled a Combat Armory G19 reciever, using Aim Surplus parts. I had dead trigger/reset problems, when shooting left handed

I think it was the Aim connector, but I replaced the trigger bar and connector with Glock parts, runs fine.

Can confirm: Aimsurplus plus Ghost Angel 3.0 is not reliable. I swapped the original connector back in and it's better. Now I'm fiddling with the Ghost connector to see if I can get it to work. So far, no dice.

is there a special trick to remove the trigger pin while jiggling the slide release?  I tried darn hard to get the trigger pin out, to no avail.  and I do have quite a few Glocks, so I have "some" experience with getting the slide release hole to straddle the notch in the pin, but have but have had absolutely no success with my PSA Dagger.

very frustrating!  it seems that the slot that the slide release nestles into has a slightly different shape, or dimension, than a run-of-the-mill Glock 19 Gen 3.




ETA:  ==================

okay, I figured it out, nothing like answering my own question.

requires 3 hands, or, 2 hands and a bench vise.

clamp the pin punch (or Glock tool) in the bench vise, sticking out sideways, about belly button height.

before starting, with thumb pressure, push the trigger pin in on the left side.  This is just to position the notch for the next steps.

position the left-side of the frame with the pin-punch resting on the trigger pin, no pressure, just hold it in position.  If you apply pressure, you might prevent the front of the slide release from moving up.

with the thumb of the hand that's holding the frame, press down on the slide release tab, press it against the top of the frame.

with the other hand, use any device (e.g. pin punch, small flat-blade screwdriver), and use the device to lever up on the mag follower tab, exerting some upward pressure on the mag follower tab of the slide release.  This causes the front end (hole-end) of the slide release to rise up.

when you SEE the slide-release "click" out of the pin notch, press the frame against the bench-vise pin punch, and the trigger pin will slide out.

I also had the aim connector and for some reason it made my dagger shoot in binary mode.  Swapped it for a stock glock one and it runs fine.

It took me some time to do it, and I still haven't figured out the trick. You know about lifting the slide lock, but moving the trigger around seems to help too. Once everything is in the right place the pin almost falls out, but it is very difficult to get it to that sweet spot.

nvm

@Brawnydog
thanks for your reply.  I figured out a trick, not sure if it's The Trick.  did an edit-add to my #17 post above.

again, thanks for the reply, and glad to know somebody read my post and can relate to it.

Several people have posted online with how difficult it is to remove the trigger pin. Apparently you just have to hold your mouth right and the pin jumps out.

I have only had 1 Dagger trigger pin out, it was tighter than Glocks usually are, but once it started I had no problem getting it out, and other than having to wiggle the slide stop a little, no trouble getting it back in.

I put in a complete P80 trigger kit and have had zero issues dry firing. Short reset too, but it actually seems to be a heavier trigger pull. I changed the whole assembly, which part lightens the pull? I did not change anything to do with the slide, i.e. striker or plunger.

@Brawnydog
to lighten the pull, i'd go with a 4.5 lbs striker spring, and a 6.0 lbs trigger housing spring, avail from Ghost Inc.  you might as well get the 10-pack, since I'm sure this won't be your last-ever Glock clone, and the striker spring and TH spring are common to all 3rd gen Glocks.  the connector (small angled metal piece inserted in trigger housing) also affects the trigger pull.  Folks like to use the Glock OEM 5.5 lb connector, although Ghost Inc and others have various levels of "enhanced" connectors, albeit at "enhanced" prices.  The Ghost Inc $12 3.5 lb basic-level connector might be a decent compromise, depending on what you're looking for.  Sometimes, depending on tolerance stacking, the more radical aftermarket connectors might not work.

you might as well go for the lighter-strength spring for the firing pin safety plunger, again, 10-pk.

Thanks brother. I have a Ghost Angel connector I may see if I can get to work. Other than that, I don't know if I'm worried enough about the pull weight to do all that replacing and such.