Posted: 6/13/2020 5:08:07 PM EDT
While picked up a browning in 40 a month ago. Turns out it is the one I sold at the shop where I got it back. Paid what I sold it for.
Since I got it back I have decided to upgrade/mod the gun now that have some money and time.
Easy upgrade was the grips, altomata floral pattern dark rose wood.
It is currently in at the smith having a barsto 9mm barrel installed.
From there is the question.
I want to make into a carry gun so....
Night sights yes
Mag disconnect does not bother me since the trigger is smooth with very little up take.
I will post pictures when I get it back.
this a Hi-power right? I'd get a C&S safety,trigger,slide release and maybe even a hammer. Top priority is a great holster. I have no suggestions there.
Luckily 1911 holsters fit nicely, I have a number of classic leather holsters from the 80's that I'm glad I kept!
On all of mine I installed ambi safeties, and lengthened slide stops. The all of the rest I left as it was, they work.
MK3 safety, good sights, and a decent trigger job. I prefer a Garthwaite trigger. If you’re not going to get the front and backstraps textured then grip/skateboard tape works well.
[Last Edit: 6/20/2020 1:23:15 PM EDT by desertmoon]
I'd go with Novak for the top end, right off the bat. They have a 1911 sized set of standard Novaks that looks and work great on the Hi Power slide.
I would definitely go with a C and S, A2 sear as the original factor sear can peen out after 9 or 10 thousand rounds. If you start getting hammer follow, it's usually the factory sear dying on you.
Since Hi-Powers went to cast frame, grips will often not quite fit tightly and they will often shift a bit on the frame, causing the grip screws to continually come loose. Bed the grips to the frame just like bedding a rifle action. BTW: since the HP uses Euro-Style screw slots, cut and grind a driver bit to fit your grip screws or go to Torx or Hex screws.
I personally prefer bobbing the standard hammer on the BHP as to using a rowel hammer. Also, rounding the back edges along the entire, exposed back portion of the hammer greatly reduces bite.