I have a 92XP that I'd like to convert to SAO with a flat trigger.  It seems to me that the easy way to do this would be to just install the flat trigger, plus the pre-travel adjustment set screw that the frame is drilled and tapped for and adjust the screw so that the trigger only moves forward just past reset.  Is this the "right" way to do this, or are other parts needed?  I see that Beretta now has a flat trigger on their website, but I'm not sure if that and a set screw is all I'd need to do this.  Everything I'm finding online says "send it to Allegheny" but most of that info predates the 92XP, so a frame safety conversion would have also been necessary.  Obviously the 92XP eliminates the need for that, so the SAO conversion should be fairly simple.

Before someone asks why, the answer is because I have plenty of DA/SA 92's, all of which have better triggers than the 92XP.  Since I'm going to tear into the 92XP to fix the disappointing trigger, I'd like to experiment a bit and see how good I can get the trigger in SAO.  The DA trigger reach is a bit too long for me right now due to the goofy trigger they put in this thing, and it's a little shorter than ideal in SA.  It also has a little creep, so I'm already needing a different trigger and a bit of work on the sear.

Guess no one has tried this yet.  Cost is somewhat reasonable, so I guess I'll just order the trigger and a pre-travel screw and give it a shot.  If it doesn't work, I'll just stick the standard parts back in it until I figure out what I'm missing.

In case anyone is wondering, it works.  The Beretta flat trigger by itself eliminates double-action functionality, but leaves an excessively long take-up.  The correct adjustment screw is an M3-0.5.  I used a 10mm long set screw.  After adjustment so that, at rest, the trigger bar isn't quite pushing up on the firing pin block, the screw sits pretty close to flush inside the magwell.  Depending on tolerances and desired take-up, an 8mm long set screw may be necessary.

I haven't test fired it yet, but everything checks out when doing function checks.  Now that I know it works, I'll tear it back apart and start polishing.  As a side note, the right side safety needs to come out to get the trigger bar out.  That little roll pin is tiny.  (about 0.050") I ended up having to use a brad nail as a punch.

I’m excited to see how this all turns out!

More news at 11.  I'm waiting on a magwell from 3D Printer Gun Gear at the moment.  Once that shows up, it's getting gutted again for a polish job.  The much-hyped trigger group in this thing was a bit of a disappointment in that the SA has always been pretty creepy.  The double action was never spectacular either, but that's not a problem anymore.  About the only advantage I've seen over the standard 92 trigger is the reduced reset, but the Langdon trigger bar also accomplishes that.  I haven't pulled the sear out of it yet, but I'm assuming it's a standard part, which i have spares of, so stoning it should be fairly low risk.  I've freehanded a few before with good results; hopefully this will be similar.

Trigger job complete.... kind of.

The magwell from 3D Printed Gun Gear arrived.  Fit is great, finish is good on the exterior, the interior is a little rough, but it's just cosmetic.  The inside will eventually get beat up anyway, so no big deal.  Their basepads are nice all the way around.  I already had some of the Springer extensions that I expected to have to modify to work with the new magwell, but they fit without modification, barely.  

Back to the trigger:  I pulled everything apart and lightly stoned and polished to smooth it out and get rid of the creep.  Most of the creep is gone now and it's smoother, but I noticed some rather odd results.  The gun will now drop the hammer from half-cock by pulling the trigger.  TBH, I'm not sure if it would have done this prior to stoning since the thought of doing so never occurred to me until after I'd stoned it.  I didn't stone the half-cock notch in the hammer, so if I screwed it up, it was due to stoning the sear.  I've stoned hammers and sears before on DA/SA Berettas and did these the same way.  It's not possible to have this issue on a gun with DA capability though, since the trigger bar will draw the hammer back from half-cock.  Since this one may be caused by my tinkering, I'll try throwing a stock sear back in it to see if the issue goes away.  Hopefully I can replace the sear without having to pull everything else out again.

My hammer also now has three clicks.  First one is half-cock, third one is full-cock, and there's one in between that results in a trigger pull like a very short double action.  It's kind of like some CZ-75's where they'll cam the hammer back a bit in single action.  In this case, it's a remnant of the DA functionality.  In the parts breakdown in the manual, they show a different hammer being used in the non-existent SAO versions, so now I know why.  They all use the same sear though.  Now I just need to figure out the PN for the SAO hammer and get my hands on one, or figure out the differences and modify mine.