Found this at a local shop the other day.  Not sure if it's special or not, but I thought it was cool.  I have the correct grips and lanyard coming.  I'd like to find an original holster for it.

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.38 S&W or .38 spl?

Model 10 grips are easy to find.

Holsters are pretty easy also.

Barrel says 38 S&W Special CTG.

Much easier to find!

Not the same as 38 Special I'm assuming?  How about 357 mag?

Yes, .38 S&W SPL is .38 special, .38 S&W is another cartridge entirely.

Roger that.  At least they made that super clear...

Yeah, that has a gotten a lot of people over the years, they see .38 S&W and think .38 special.........then they can't get one to load unless it's been boogered up and the cylinder reamed for .38 special. [Which kinda works IF done right] Taper is different also on the .38 S&W.

Does it have Mod 10 on the frame, if you open the cylinder? The Victory model predates the Model 10.

NEVER EVER USE 357 Magnum in this revolver!  Of course it won't chamber, but it would blow it up.  Even 38 special +P should be avoided.

Use standard pressure 38 Special and you will be just fine.

does the serial number have a "V" prefix...is there a hole for a lanyard loop?

V66xxxx serial #.

I know better than to shoot anything other than standard 38 special.

Nice Victory model. Show us the photos once you get lanyard and stocks (correct terminology back then).

Here is mine. Lots of history for those V models. Not front line WWII weapon but still cool handguns during war time.

Should be parkerized.  That one looks blued.

I have two. One for each nephew!

Picked one up locally almost looked new!

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Picked up another from an ARFCOM member who got it from an old man's estate.

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Ordered an original set of grips and a reproduction lanyard loop for it and restored it to original condition.
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The latter one shoots like a laser! Lays 158gr Lead Round Nose bullets right on the top of the front sight at 25 yards!

Many of the government contract guns were blued.  Some polished blue, some rough before parkerizing was standardized.  I have a pre-victory Jan 42 that is blued.  It wasn't until later 42 when the government got its standardization requirements together to request parkerized finish, plain wood grips and V stamping.  I have one that was acquired by the government and issued to Oldsmobile car factory turned munitions plant.  It looked like a standard 1905 late model but had a lanyard ring and I picked it up last year for $400.  Some went to the military and some to military industry.  but real deal WW2 revolvers can be had that are not marked as V.

The serial number is the best way to tell and of course a factory letter.

You can sometimes pick up a pre-victory (No V stamp ) that was actually used in WW2 by USA relatively cheap as often owners don't check SN and issue to when it was made and delivered to and it isn't outwardly resemble a victory revolver (doesn't have plain wood grips or parked finish)

Here is my old Victory model.

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That looks like a 5 inch model chambered in 38 S&W.

Although they were made at the same time and have a V prefix in the serial number they are referred to by S&W collectors as BSR's or British Service Revolvers.

Does it have any British proof marks or other unit markings from where it was issued?

No proof, it's is .38 S&W [yes I have 500 rounds of .38 S&W] marked USP.

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I bought it because it was $150.00 The previous owner bought it thinking it was .38 special and wanted to sell it because he couldn't shoot it. .38 S&W's are Total mouse fart rounds.

I would have ripped my pocket off trying to get my wallet out to pay him!

I wouldn't mind having a BSR "Victory". I reload so loading for 38 S&W wouldn't be that big of a deal.

The reason the BSR's are marked "United States Property" is because they were provided as aid to the British as "Lend Lease" aid and they were technically loaned to the British with the U.S. retaining technical ownership.