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Posted: 5/12/2016 12:03:50 AM EDT
[#1]
I have a buddy who ordered and finished one. Turned out great! Here are some pics. Sorry for the poor quality phone pics..
The milling was extremely quick and easy. In my opinion, it is a really nice product and it shoots great. |
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Posted: 5/12/2016 12:12:20 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
so I take it nobody else has received theirs yet mine was delivered yesterday and I noticed there might be a defect.. or there might not noticed this chunk of plastic was missing from the rear wall of the mag well...don't know if this is casting/molding flash or a defect. I have a message sent to Polymer80 to see what they have to say about it here's a pic.. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s147/crackedcornish/image0-22_zpsuvtgbfwh.jpg the plastic is really thin there, so I'm hoping that's just where it had the plastic injected into the mold The area you are concerned about looks to be in spec. It is not a load bearing surface. The trigger mechanism housing is pinned in behind it and makes no contact with it. You are good to go. |
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Posted: 5/12/2016 9:28:13 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
so has anybody taken the time to comprise a parts list of THE aftermarket parts needed to complete one of these? I'm not looking for a list of the most expensive parts per se, but a list of the most gun for the $$ spent and mine's most likely going to be set up as a .40S&W with a .22LR conversion, but haven't totally ruled out the 357Sig  Price/Parts Breakdown: Specter Lower: $136 presale at Polymer80 Glock Frame Parts kit: $75 at rockyourglock.com Complete Glock 17 gen 3 Slide: $285 found on Gunbroker Two Magazines: $40 at Brownells For a grand total of $536 with two Magazines. Not bad. Not sure if any of these deals still exist anymore, but the prices of complete slides appear to have gone up recently, and I'm pretty sure that the frame price is $160 after the pre-sale period. |
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Posted: 5/13/2016 9:35:53 AM EDT
[#4]
One of the companies distributing these frames says they're working on getting together complete kits to sell. Hopefully they can get the price down a bit.
Are these only compatible with Gen 3 parts or do they work with Gen 4 also? |
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Posted: 5/13/2016 10:31:48 AM EDT
[#5]
Gen 3 only
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Posted: 5/14/2016 9:21:25 PM EDT
[#6]
Except for the rear rails looks like I could do most of the work without a drill press
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Posted: 5/15/2016 2:34:03 AM EDT
[#9]
Mind showing us a pic of the locking block?
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Posted: 5/15/2016 6:37:50 AM EDT
[#10]
Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money.
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Posted: 5/15/2016 8:55:14 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. DDM4V11SLW, How smooth is the inside of the magwell? Is it like a factory Glock? |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 9:04:26 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There have been polymer railed handguns on the market for over 20 years. This isn't a new idea. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. They have much thicker rails than a Glock though. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 9:13:10 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They have much thicker rails than a Glock though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. They have much thicker rails than a Glock though. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 9:16:05 AM EDT
[#14]
I never knew that, can you name a few ?
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There have been polymer railed handguns on the market for over 20 years. This isn't a new idea. DDM4V11SLW, How smooth is the inside of the magwell? Is it like a factory Glock? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. DDM4V11SLW, How smooth is the inside of the magwell? Is it like a factory Glock? |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 9:43:04 AM EDT
[#15]
My .02
This is going to be the new Plastic AR lower. Multiple pics of broken frames. (Or in this case rails) |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 10:49:04 AM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 5/15/2016 11:32:06 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In that case it'll come down to materials: have advances in polymers been enough to allow smaller rails? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. They have much thicker rails than a Glock though. If that was the case Glock would have plastic rails now. I mean look how the MIM changes went over! This was a cost saving feature. If Glock thought plastic rails were a good idea they would have come out with them. Let's be honest with each other. This was the only way the manufacturer could come up with a economic 80% lower without seriously increasing costs and making the milling process extremely difficult. It is not a great idea just because it's been done before Jennings made garbage cheap pistols before and it's not new. Does the same mistakes need to be made no. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 11:46:03 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If that was the case Glock would have plastic rails now. I mean look how the MIM changes went over! This was a cost saving feature. If Glock thought plastic rails were a good idea they would have come out with them. Let's be honest with each other. This was the only way the manufacturer could come up with a economic 80% lower without seriously increasing costs and making the milling process extremely difficult. It is not a great idea just because it's been done before Jennings made garbage cheap pistols before and it's not new. Does the same mistakes need to be made no. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. They have much thicker rails than a Glock though. If that was the case Glock would have plastic rails now. I mean look how the MIM changes went over! This was a cost saving feature. If Glock thought plastic rails were a good idea they would have come out with them. Let's be honest with each other. This was the only way the manufacturer could come up with a economic 80% lower without seriously increasing costs and making the milling process extremely difficult. It is not a great idea just because it's been done before Jennings made garbage cheap pistols before and it's not new. Does the same mistakes need to be made no. My wife's LC9S has 100% full plastic rails. Anyway, the front rails on the locking block are steel for this polymer 80 design. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 11:56:17 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My wife's LC9S has 100% full plastic rails. No, it doesn't. 
There's an aluminum subframe in there, the finish makes it hard to tell them apart. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 12:26:27 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My .02 This is going to be the new Plastic AR lower. Multiple pics of broken frames. (Or in this case rails) The front uses steel for the rail via the locking block. The rear does not, but is also not a tensioned surface. Mine came in yesterday and I have 1000 rounds through it, half Full-Auto. It works fine. If it breaks we will see. I am sure many broken, but a full root cause analysis will show improper milling of the cuts - not true, too deep, etc, as opposed to design defects. If mine breaks I would be out a whopping $135, assuming the do not fix it. Worth it just for the fun of having one. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 1:00:34 PM EDT
[#22]
On the poly rear rail...I am hoping to see a gen 2 version of the 80% that uses a drop in rear block or perhaps the current locking block extended to the rear rail, even if it means the exterior will have some portion of the block exposed.
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Posted: 5/15/2016 1:46:55 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: On the poly rear rail...I am hoping to see a gen 2 version of the 80% that uses a drop in rear block or perhaps the current locking block extended to the rear rail, even if it means the exterior will have some portion of the block exposed. It will be difficult for them to do more for the purchaser & get another BATFE TB non-firearm determination letter. I think this design is much like Kansas City. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 2:19:41 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It will be difficult for them to do more for the purchaser & get another BATFE TB non-firearm determination letter. I think this design is much like Kansas City. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: On the poly rear rail...I am hoping to see a gen 2 version of the 80% that uses a drop in rear block or perhaps the current locking block extended to the rear rail, even if it means the exterior will have some portion of the block exposed. It will be difficult for them to do more for the purchaser & get another BATFE TB non-firearm determination letter. I think this design is much like Kansas City. Kansas City? In order for the locking block to fit at the rear and have the rail, I'm sure the ATF would want the end user to have to remove some material from the frame. I don't think it would be crazy difficult to amend the current design. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 3:15:17 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kansas City? In order for the locking block to fit at the rear and have the rail, I'm sure the ATF would want the end user to have to remove some material from the frame. I don't think it would be crazy difficult to amend the current design. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: On the poly rear rail...I am hoping to see a gen 2 version of the 80% that uses a drop in rear block or perhaps the current locking block extended to the rear rail, even if it means the exterior will have some portion of the block exposed. It will be difficult for them to do more for the purchaser & get another BATFE TB non-firearm determination letter. I think this design is much like Kansas City. Kansas City? In order for the locking block to fit at the rear and have the rail, I'm sure the ATF would want the end user to have to remove some material from the frame. I don't think it would be crazy difficult to amend the current design. They've gone about as fur as they can go... You're right, that's a possibility - they can always amend the current design. However, BATFE can always say no. I'm very grateful they've brought this to market. Between this and the Iron Glock, there's now two ways to an 80% Glock. I suppose someone could mill a complete frame from a hunk of aluminum, but other than the CCF frames, I've never seen it done. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 4:03:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I never knew that, can you name a few ? Quote HistoryQuoted: I never knew that, can you name a few ? Quoted: Quoted: Polymer rails. I don't know that's a good idea. I think that the designers made Glock rails out of metal for a reason. All reails should be made of steel. I think it's a cool idea but not a lasting one. The rear polymer rail will break and it will be waisted money. Quoted: Mine came in yesterday and I have 1000 rounds through it, half Full-Auto. I wanna party with you. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 4:30:31 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Mind showing us a pic of the locking block? http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/zoamaniac/Mobile%20Uploads/image_54.jpeg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/zoamaniac/Mobile%20Uploads/image_56.jpeg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/zoamaniac/Mobile%20Uploads/image_60.jpeg In other words, the Spectre's slide rail is all metal and longer up front than a factory Glock. |
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Posted: 5/15/2016 5:04:27 PM EDT
[#28]
I'd love to see the Specter run through the following video test:
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Posted: 5/16/2016 12:18:22 AM EDT
[#29]
There is nothing wrong with this design. This is the same idea with the Springfield XD. It has a metal locking block with integrated rails and the rear rails are part of the polymer frame. This is mine I sold a few months ago -
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Posted: 5/16/2016 3:07:18 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is nothing wrong with this design. This is the same idea with the Springfield XD. It has a metal locking block with integrated rails and the rear rails are part of the polymer frame. This is mine I sold a few months ago - http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u448/ar15eric/xd1-7_zpsbhfbdxom.png I think I'll hold out for a bit to see how these hold up. Also if I'm going to do this there would have to be a substantial cost savings in doing so. I can buy a complete Glock lower off of GB for about $200. If I could buy one of them for about $85 MSRP I might consider it. I have a complete Glock 19.3 slide siting in a drawer right now. For now it looks like they only offer a 17 frame. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 10:00:37 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also if I'm going to do this there would have to be a substantial cost savings in doing so. I can buy a complete Glock lower off of GB for about $200. If I could buy one of them for about $85 MSRP I might consider it. I have a complete Glock 19.3 slide siting in a drawer right now. For now it looks like they only offer a 17 frame. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 10:14:26 AM EDT
[#32]
exactly my thought!
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Posted: 5/16/2016 10:18:51 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because it's an 80% gun. Because you can. Because 'Murcia Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are going to end up spending more than a good used police trade glock costs when all is said and done,not sure I get the point of doing this? Because it's an 80% gun. Because you can. Because 'Murcia Pride of accomplishment. Enjoyment of DIY. It is a big FU to the gun grabbers who soil their panties over "ghosts". |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 10:25:04 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The area you are concerned about looks to be in spec. It is not a load bearing surface. The trigger mechanism housing is pinned in behind it and makes no contact with it. You are good to go. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
so I take it nobody else has received theirs yet mine was delivered yesterday and I noticed there might be a defect.. or there might not noticed this chunk of plastic was missing from the rear wall of the mag well...don't know if this is casting/molding flash or a defect. I have a message sent to Polymer80 to see what they have to say about it here's a pic.. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s147/crackedcornish/image0-22_zpsuvtgbfwh.jpg the plastic is really thin there, so I'm hoping that's just where it had the plastic injected into the mold The area you are concerned about looks to be in spec. It is not a load bearing surface. The trigger mechanism housing is pinned in behind it and makes no contact with it. You are good to go. FWIW, my Spectre frame looks exactly like that. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 10:44:44 AM EDT
[#35]
Lone Wolf finally had some LWD-SLIDE-22 in stock so I ordered one. They also carry a LWD-SLIDEKIT-40 which is the parts needed to complete the slide minus the op rod and spring which is LWD-GRA-1722. And a new thing they have is a kit for the Polymer80 Spectre Completion Kit which is LWD-Spectre-40SW. I already have a Lone Wolf .357 Sig barrel which I have in my Glock 22. I am going to put the original .40 S&W barrel back in the Glock and use the .357 Sig barrel with my Spectre. I also ordered a set of metal carry sights. FWIW, at $160 for the 80% kit (shipped) and $455 for the slide, parts kits & sights, it would be far cheaper to buy a used Glock and even buying one new is probably cheaper than $725 by the time I buy a couple more mags... But cost savings is really not the point in my opinion of 80% frames. What I am getting not only has some upgrades over a stock Glock, it is also the things I've mentioned before... The pride and pleasure of DIY plus getting to flip the bird at the bed wetting anti-gunners who hate "ghost guns".
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Posted: 5/16/2016 12:32:45 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lone Wolf finally had some LWD-SLIDE-22 in stock so I ordered one. They also carry a LWD-SLIDEKIT-40 which is the parts needed to complete the slide minus the op rod and spring which is LWD-GRA-1722. And a new thing they have is a kit for the Polymer80 Spectre Completion Kit which is LWD-Spectre-40SW. I already have a Lone Wolf .357 Sig barrel which I have in my Glock 22. I am going to put the original .40 S&W barrel back in the Glock and use the .357 Sig barrel with my Spectre. I also ordered a set of metal carry sights. FWIW, at $160 for the 80% kit (shipped) and $455 for the slide, parts kits & sights, it would be far cheaper to buy a used Glock and even buying one new is probably cheaper than $725 by the time I buy a couple more mags... But cost savings is really not the point in my opinion of 80% frames. What I am getting not only has some upgrades over a stock Glock, it is also the things I've mentioned before... The pride and pleasure of DIY plus getting to flip the bird at the bed wetting anti-gunners who hate "ghost guns". I get that and if that makes you happy go for it! I agree if you got the money and the desire do it! |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 1:55:44 PM EDT
[#37]
I think I will try to knock the front rail off with a belt sander.. Then finish by hand
I'm pretty sure I can clear out the recoil rod spring and rod area with a dremel And I have a dremel drill press and can complete the rear rails with that |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 1:06:15 AM EDT
[#38]
Range report:
At first the slide wouldn't close into battery after each shot, but then I tightened my grip and it now cycles fine. I think I might have limp wristed it (it's really light for one thing). I ran about 100 rounds through it and it wouldn't jam at all unless you limp wrist it. As for accuracy it's as good as my skills will allow (I can't really hit anything beyond 7 yards). I think after breaking it in the thing will be really reliable. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 11:32:32 AM EDT
[#39]
Notes on my build:
1) Milling the front was easy. I used a drill press and a cross vise, you could use a band saw, a dremel, whatever. My drill press came up 1/4" short, so that final portion I did with a dremel. I cleaned it up with sandpaper as instructed. 2) The recoil slot I did with a dremel since I still had the dremel out from above. There were some portions I could not reach with the dremel, so I then used the drill press as instructed. I cleaned it up with hand files and sandpaper. 3) I used the drill press for the rear rail slots. I favored the one side as they said, and pulled a tiny bit of frame but that was not an issue. A little sandpaper cleaned it up. The other side I did not favor, and got a nice clean cut. I used hand files to fit this to the slide. This took the most time, maybe 15 minutes. Then I cleaned it up with sand paper. 4) I drilled the holes as instructed with the supplied bits. 5) So now I go to install the parts, and everything drops into place (locking block took some persuasion), but cannot get the pins in. I remove the parts and try to put the pins in, but they are very tight. Got them in with hammer. So I take them out and try again, Use hammer to put in trigger pin, and wind up breaking trigger as trigger pin hit side of trigger. My bad for not seeing this was not aligned. No biggies as I am Glock Armorer and have plenty of parts. 6) I am still concerned how tight these pins are so I decide to check a factory G17 frame. I pull out my metric bit set and find out the holes are more precisely 3mm and 4mm instead of 7/64 and 5/32. So i re-drill them using these bits. I go to reassemble and everything fits with same tightness as the Glock frame. |
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Posted: 5/17/2016 3:05:13 PM EDT
[#40]
I had the same issue as well. The locking block pin fits VERY tightly. You have to press it in or pound it in.
I would use the drill press to press the parts in rather than hammer it so you don't break something. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 4:39:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Sorry it took so long. Finals, subsequent consumption of copious amounts of various intoxicating substances, and a road trip have kept me pretty busy, but I finally added some pics of the frames and tools right outta the box. I'll try to get started on them as soon as I get back home.
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Posted: 5/19/2016 2:00:39 PM EDT
[#42]
Got more rounds downrange, all is well.
Only thing I do not like is it does not fit any of my Glock holsters. The frame is slightly larger in several areas. |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 12:32:03 AM EDT
[#43]
so what holster fits this? Do I need to get special custom made holsters?
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Posted: 5/20/2016 4:07:52 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Cost is what's holding me back right now too. I can buy a police trade-in G22 and drop a conversion barrel in it for about $470 right now. Hopefully the Spectre distributors can put together some attractively priced kits. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Also if I'm going to do this there would have to be a substantial cost savings in doing so. I can buy a complete Glock lower off of GB for about $200. If I could buy one of them for about $85 MSRP I might consider it. I have a complete Glock 19.3 slide siting in a drawer right now. For now it looks like they only offer a 17 frame. If that is what you are looking for you will never get one. They are not marketed to guys trying to save a penny. It will end up costing you more--more than likely. 80% AR lowers are usually as much or even more than ones that are finished and anodized. They are made for builders, tinkerers, and those who do not want serial numbers and to have their privacy. If getting one to save money is your selling point there is no hope of you getting one. Look at Lone Wolf, etc. there's are more expensive. :) |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 8:52:22 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If that is what you are looking for you will never get one. They are not marketed to guys trying to save a penny. It will end up costing you more--more than likely. 80% AR lowers are usually as much or even more than ones that are finished and anodized. They are made for builders, tinkerers, and those who do not want serial numbers and to have their privacy. If getting one to save money is your selling point there is no hope of you getting one. Look at Lone Wolf, etc. there's are more expensive. :) Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also if I'm going to do this there would have to be a substantial cost savings in doing so. I can buy a complete Glock lower off of GB for about $200. If I could buy one of them for about $85 MSRP I might consider it. I have a complete Glock 19.3 slide siting in a drawer right now. For now it looks like they only offer a 17 frame. If that is what you are looking for you will never get one. They are not marketed to guys trying to save a penny. It will end up costing you more--more than likely. 80% AR lowers are usually as much or even more than ones that are finished and anodized. They are made for builders, tinkerers, and those who do not want serial numbers and to have their privacy. If getting one to save money is your selling point there is no hope of you getting one. Look at Lone Wolf, etc. there's are more expensive. :) The difference is that there are a lot of companies trying to make cheap AR15 parts, but every company making aftermarket Glock parts is trying to make high end race gun parts. So yes, there is the opportunity for a company to make basic budget Glock parts and release a kit cheaper than what a factory Glock costs. |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 9:38:28 AM EDT
[#47]
It also comes with a 1911 angled grip, which is different than Glocks and you get the flared magwell as well which you'd have to buy as an aftermarket product and would spend a lot of money on as well. Those are some of the upgrades or add on's that add value to the platform for many.
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Posted: 5/20/2016 1:48:22 PM EDT
[#48]
Fellow Spectre builders - I want to put a serial # on my frame (once I mill it in another state and transport it back in according to federal and state law) to maintain legality in the People's Republik of New Germany.
Any suggestions on the best way to do this? Steel hand stamps? Find somebody with a strong laser engraver? Ideally I'd like to put on a serial number akin to 'FSCKWEINBERG123'... |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 2:58:27 PM EDT
[#49]
Even a cheap CO2 laser should have enough power to engrave the polymer deep enough to meet federal requirements. But federal regs require the serial to be engraved in metal and on the frame or receiver. I guess you could cut a window through the frame to the locking block and have the locking block engraved with a serial. The rest of the required markings could be engraved in the polymer.
*Just to be clear, no markings are required on a home made Title I firearm at the federal level. |
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Posted: 5/20/2016 3:28:26 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fellow Spectre builders - I want to put a serial # on my frame (once I mill it in another state and transport it back in according to federal and state law) to maintain legality in the People's Republik of New Germany. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? Steel hand stamps? Find somebody with a strong laser engraver? Ideally I'd like to put on a serial number akin to 'FSCKWEINBERG123'... Not sure since SN on polymer is no-go under Federal rules. But any laser or rotary cutter will cut it. |
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