My OE battery shit the bed today after ~4yrs and 10k miles on my 2014 BMW S1000 single R.

Looking at this antigravity battery which is a exact fit for my MC. Any reason not to go this route?

Things I like about this battery are 1) it's a direct replacement and 2) it has a built in BMS(battery management sys) which helps protect the battery from a number of problems Li tech has.

I'm open to suggestions for sticking to AGM or other brands of Li batteries.

Thanks

Edit: fixed some grammar issue(s), I'll blame it on bad proof reading. lol

I tried a Lithium battery in a 1999 Honda, and I had problems.  in 2017 I got a lithium battery thinking it was an upgrade.  After a month, I had the stock Regulator/Rectifier go out, which is no surprise, they are trash.  I put in my backup R/R (also stock) and it lasted 2 weeks.  I did a Yamaha R/R conversion (Bigger and beefier), and it lasted a month.  I took the lithium battery out and put my old, weak but still working Lead battery back in, and rode the rest of last season with no more drama.  Over last winter my lead battery finally quit for good, so I charged up the lithium battery on my shelf, and tried it again, and smoked a 4th R/R (2 Stock, 2 Yamaha).  Installed R/R #5, and a new lead battery and rode all of 2018 with no issues.   YMMV but there was something different about the Lithium battery on my bike.  My (unprovable) suspicion was the battery was pulling too much from the charging system somehow, on my very old bike that is known for R/R issues.

I'd save my money and not buy it

I ran a 4 cell in my Husky SM450R for a year and had no issues. Seemed like it started faster compared to the stock YUASA lead acid. Plus I went from like a 7 or 8 pound battery to a 12 ounce one.

I replaced my lead acid battery in the 82 CB650SC with a generic AGM type. Works great. So far its a great buy at $45.

Do you have a reason, any reason, other than a few dollars? The extra cost difference is somewhere around 30 dollars.

I'm looking at a OE AGM battery for about ~150 or a ~180 for the battery in the OP.

My KTM came stock with a lithium battery.  From a review of a KTM battery charger (I have the cheaper one, not reviewed):

https://motocrossactionmag.com/mxa-team-tested-ktm-li-ion-battery-chargertest-unit/

(1) Concept. KTMs have used electric start since 2007. Initially, KTM used a Yuasa lead-acid battery, but in 2016 KTM switched to a much lighter and smaller Samsung C22S lithium-ion battery. Battery terminology can be confusing, but the KTM and Husqvarna batteries are more accurately called lithium-iron phosphate batteries. These batteries are also referred to as LiFePO or LFP batteries, but those are just acronyms for “lithium ferro phosphate.” Do not confuse lithium-iron phosphate batteries with the lithium cobalt (Li-cobalt) batteries used on most consumer electronics. They are quite different, even though they are both technically lithium-ion (Li-ion) systems.

(2) LiFePO. The advantages of using a lithium-iron phosphate battery over a lead-acid battery is that it has a higher resistance to thermal runaway, a longer calendar life, quick recharge rate, five times as many available discharge cycles, higher peak-power rating, a lower price and weighs less. Additionally, a LiFePO battery contains no poisonous lead, acid or toxic gases (as lead-acid batteries do). In short, a lithium-iron phosphate battery weighs 2 pounds less, delivers a more powerful punch and costs less than a lead-acid battery.

(3) Battery issues. KTM and Husky motocross bikes use electric starting exclusively. They do not have a kick-starter. If the battery goes dead, starting becomes problematic. MXA has had very few issues with dead batteries, but in cold weather the small, light Samsung C22S battery can easily be ground down, which is why MXA test riders preheat the Samsung battery by engaging the starter button, without starting the engine, several times in cold weather. What does that do? Lithium-iron phosphate batteries get stronger as they get warmer (the voltage actually increases as you get the fuel pump to hum). If that fails, you can jump-start a KTM from your car battery

(4) KTM battery charger. As a rule of thumb, you should not charge a Li-ion battery with a conventional automobile battery charger. Not that it won’t charge the battery; the problem is that it won’t stop charging the battery, which can lead to overheating and Hoverboard-style fires.

The article continues, but that's enough.  Lead-acid old school.  For things like dirt bikes or jet skis that sit in the garage a lot, I hate lead-acid batteries with a passion.  LFP is so much easier to live with.  It's why all those jump starters also went lithium.

I've had an Odyssey in my bike for 8 years, I'm happy with its life.

Unfortunately, OP there is no consensus. I have seen arguments go both ways. The weight savings is amazing though.

I really wanted to when I replaced my KLR battery. As stated above there are mixed reviews and opinions. I went AGM again.

Some folks over at KLR650.net are using the LifePo Deltran with good results.

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I’ve got lithium’s in all of my bikes, even my little TTR50 Pit bike and on a bike where weight is important, they save considerable weight. My Husky 510SMR is an example of a very light bike made lighter. It’s less noticeable on any of my R1’s, street or race, but there’s still a savings to be had. A nice plus.

They pack a punch, so a bike like my hard starting DRZ will fire much quicker and easier with a lithium that’s smaller and lighter than a lead acid. Another plus.

One negative is that when a lithium goes dead, it’s DEAD forever. You can’t bring them back to life like you can with a lead acid.

@fttam

how are they for cold cranking?

@ORARGB

I’ve never seen much of a difference in cold performance between the lithium’s and the lead acids. If anything, I’d say that they still fire quicker as they pack more CCAs than a lead acid.

My DRZ for example (it’s my winter beater, so it’s a good gauge) uses a YTZ7 battery as stock. In a lead acid Yuasa, that’s 130CCAAs.

I long ago upgraded the bike to a lead acid YTZ10 which was good for 190CCAs.

It’s currently got (and had for three or four years now) a Battery Tender lithium that’s a replacement for the YTZ0, is about the size of the YTZ7 and chugs about 330CCAs out.

Press the button and it fires.

Everyone...Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them.