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Posted: 10/21/2021 7:04:09 AM EDT
my favorite blade is a 50 tooth Amana 610504 combination blade. you can keep thin kerf blades with all that paint.

8 Premium Table Saw Blades- Which Ones Provide the Best Bang For Your Buck?


I love Stumpy Nubs videos.


Link Posted: 10/21/2021 9:39:28 AM EDT
[#1]
I’ve had the same Forrest woodworker II for decades now.  Had it sent back to sharpen and repair/replace a chipped tooth once.    And I’ve run a lot of linear feet through it too
I bought a second one a couple years ago as a spare/replacement, for whenever I need it.  

Also have their dado set.
Link Posted: 10/22/2021 12:06:00 PM EDT
[#2]
I have a lot of blades up to 40t as I don't work with plywood much.  
The real standout is the Ridge Carbide 40t Super Blade.    For 4/4 stock it leaves no discernable blade marks on the edge and doesn't burn maple & cherry.  
The cut is also perfection in BB ply which I use to build shop fixtures.    

I've not been nearly as impressed with my Forest WW2 blades.  

When I have to send the Ridge out for sharpening I'll get another first.    

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07792VKJ5?tag=arfcom00-20
Link Posted: 10/23/2021 1:11:41 PM EDT
[#3]
I've bought a handful of the CMT blades from Taylor tools at a major markdown. They all seem pretty good.

I did decide to give thin kerf a shake as I'm using a 110V saw but I'm not impressed. I feel like burning got worse.
Link Posted: 10/27/2021 8:22:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I've bought a handful of the CMT blades from Taylor tools at a major markdown. They all seem pretty good.

I did decide to give thin kerf a shake as I'm using a 110V saw but I'm not impressed. I feel like burning got worse.
View Quote
thin kerf blades heat up quick. give me a blade you can sharpen a few times!
Link Posted: 10/27/2021 12:36:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Burning the piece  - when I got my table saw and paralock fence many years ago, the rep at the store told me your fence should not be exactly parallel to the blade.  That sounds wrong, but the offset is only the thickness of a plain piece of paper,  out 0.004” from the front of the blade to the back.  So after the fence is adjusted, the gap between fence and black is just slightly more at the back side of your saw blade than it is at the front.  
And if you’ve got a splitter, that needs to be in line with the fence side of your blade exactly.   My saw was made pre all the safety things like dust collection and splitters, so I had to add an aftermarket one in later.
Bring the fence up to the blade and inset a piece of paper between the blade and fence on the back side of the blade.  Then tighten up the cable clamp with the fence locked in
No idea of how you can do this , or if you even can with a biessemeyer style fence.
Link Posted: 11/9/2021 6:54:08 PM EDT
[#6]
I pretty much run a combo blade all the time on mine. Usually a Felder or Forest WWII
Link Posted: 11/12/2021 10:36:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I pretty much run a combo blade all the time on mine. Usually a Felder or Forest WWII
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Forrest makes a great blade! Right up there with Amana imho.
Link Posted: 11/18/2021 9:31:30 AM EDT
[#8]
What do you guys use to clean the pitch off your blades?
Link Posted: 11/18/2021 9:54:12 AM EDT
[#9]
Diablo is the only blades I use on all my saws.
Link Posted: 11/22/2021 3:43:28 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
your fence should not be exactly parallel to the blade.  That sounds wrong, but the offset is only the thickness of a plain piece of paper,  out 0.004” from the front of the blade to the back.  So after the fence is adjusted, the gap between fence and black is just slightly more at the back side of your saw blade than it is at the front.  
View Quote


I've been told this by saw manufacture. number they said was approx .002-.004. I asked about adjusting fence and was told to be sure not to have it exactly parallel and under no circumstances have the back slightly closer to the fence.
If its slightly closer at the back of the blade you risk having the wood tossed up and out.

Link Posted: 12/18/2021 3:04:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 12/27/2021 6:11:10 AM EDT
[#12]
Another vote for forest woodworker 2. Best damn blade around and American made.
Link Posted: 1/3/2022 8:05:20 PM EDT
[#13]
I used some 409 multi surface cleaner on my Amana MD10-500C combo blade. I didn't think there was a lot of pitch on it but after I soaked it the pitch was really running off. a quick wipe with a soft cloth and I'm back in business.
Attachment Attached File

Link Posted: 1/26/2022 9:26:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Another vote for forest woodworker 2. Best damn blade around and American made.
View Quote

I thought I was being a drunken fool for wasting that kind of cash on a saw blade.

Until the first time I used it. It blew my trusty Freud away.

One day I had a mishap that slightly bent it, so I sent it back. They straightened it and sharpened it and it came back absolutely perfect.

As for cleaning, I just use simple green. I lay the blade in the lid from a plastic 5 gallon pail, spray it on, flip the blade, spray the other side, give it a minute then wipe it off. A quick water rinse then dry it and good to go.
Link Posted: 1/26/2022 11:30:42 PM EDT
[#15]
I won’t use a thin kerf again.  No point with a 5 hp 10” saw.





I have a Freud combo blade

A Freud glue line rip blade.

Oshlun 8” dado stack

Rockler first gen miter fold stack.

A Freud box joint set.

I’ve got 2 grizzly 40t blades that I use exclusively for  dirty wood that I don’t want to their a nice blade in


Lately I have realized that I can get a higher quality blade custom made from WD Quinn saw then I can purchase online. Forgery forest and all them. I’ve used them. My custom blades are better quality and sharper and cost less.

A 100 tooth high atb blade that was custom for cutting .200” veneer plywood. I cut around a pallet of it a month.  When I’m busy.



Link Posted: 2/6/2022 11:03:56 PM EDT
[#16]
Tenryu 10" Silencer 50T is the only blade I will use to finish size cabinet doors. I got my shop to buy 4 of them, saves a lot of time edge sanding.
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 1:01:06 AM EDT
[#17]
Can the circular saw blades be hand sharpened, or do you need special equipment?
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 10:01:17 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can the circular saw blades be hand sharpened, or do you need special equipment?
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They can be hand sharpened. But professionally sharpened is preferred.



I’ve seen videos of people making a jig that holds a small diamond plate at the right angle so they can leave the blade in the table saw and slide the jig back and forth on top of the table to sharpen each tooth.

I just pay $10-15 and have Quinn saw sharpen mine.
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 2:33:58 PM EDT
[#19]
I have used Forrest Woodworker II blades as my default blade for many years, still have the original one and recently bought a second one so I can have the first one sharpened.

I also bought a Diablo glue line rip blade for flat bottom cuts, etc.  It's really nice.

I also have a couple of Diablo dado stacks.  Good value for money, IMO.

For cleaning, I'm a Simple Green and brush guy, always worked for me.
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 2:43:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 6:39:54 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


@Quicky06
Never thought to try a sharpening service before... you just mail them back and forth and it cost $15?
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Quinn saw is somewhat local to me. I drop them off and they ship them back via currier for~ $10. The way they package them shipping wouldn’t be a concern to me.

They can sharpen, repair, and make any circular blade you have.

I also have a custom blade from them.  I normally drop them
Off on my way out of town for vacation and they get back to my house before I do.

Cost starts at $10 plus shipping and goes up with tooth count.

https://quinnsaw.com

Price list:

https://quinnsaw.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Quinn-Saw-Price-List-2021-CT.pdf

Link Posted: 3/4/2022 8:24:07 PM EDT
[#22]
Link Posted: 3/4/2022 11:22:43 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


That's not bad at all, I've typically purchased the Freud glue line ripping blade, which are about $70 each, and I've tried to sharpen them but I'd be glad to outsource that.
View Quote



They sharpened my industrial full kerf glue line rip a month and about 1500 linear foot of cutting 1” hardwood  it was better when I got it back then when I bought it.

And no their prices are not bad at all. I don’t even bother for what they charge I just drop them off and they bring them back to me.

The custom blade they made me is amazing. I was struggling with clean cuts in .200” hardwood laminated plywood. No one specs a blade for under .250”. Called them. Told them
My issues and my equipment and material and they downed the blade and custom made it at my door in 6 days. ( 100tooth high atb full kerf). Was $178. Which is less than the Forrest blades.

Fair warning. If you have a fancy blade and like to show it off. The first time you send it in part of their process is to flat grind both faces of the blade. Then they laser etch the blade specs and your name back onto the blade.

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