I have a relatively new home and I had a socket installed for an IR flood light. The work was done by a pro electrician and they installed a switch in the garage. The issue is, since it is for an IR flood it doesn't need to be on all day.

I'm trying to install a honeywell rpls740b programmable switch in place of a single classic light switch.

From the wall...looks like a single insulated bundle coming to a plastic box. There is a ground, white (neutral?), Red, and black. All but ground used in exisitng switch. The Honeywell has a blue (load), black (line), and white (neutral).

I can't figure out the wiring. I did the obvious, white/white, black/black, red/blue but no power to new switch.

The new switch is single pole only. I think this is a single pole situation but don't know. The garage switch is on the breaker for a 2nd story bonus room. So...did that do something?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like you are trying to replace a 3way sw with your new programmable one. Is there another sw controlling this light?

No, but I'll be honest, I'm stupid when it comes to electricity...so, possible I'm wrong.

The only switch is in the garage but the unknown variable is it is connected to the bonus room breaker. Does that mean it could be tied in at the breaker or loops through the bonus room 'circuit'?

Added for clarification...the white wire in the box was capped off, not connected to the switch.

Possible white neutral isn't actually connected at the other end. You need to find out where he ran it from. Usually closest outlet.

Can I test the white? I have a multimeter (in packaging )

I put in a couple of Leviton digital times and with a three way you'll need a compatible matching remote switch.

<<<< not an electrician

I'm almost positive it isn't a 3-way. Unless the neutral means it is.

First, it sounds like it’s a switch loop. Meaning power goes to the light’s junction box first, then down the 3 wire cable. So black should be line, red should be load. White should be neutral, but may not have been connected in the light’s junction box.

I would go check the junction box for the light and see what’s connected to what I’m there. I’m betting you find the neutral capped.

Thanks, I'll check. If I can get pictures I'll add them.

Doesn't your IR light have triggering that is only active at night?

Well it seems like the neutral wasn't connected. I tried two different switches, neither worked.

Oh well..thanks for the advice all!