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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:16:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Use 4" screws in the hinges, door and jamb side, then add one of THESE with 4 inch screws into the 2x4 behind the door jamb.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:18:55 PM EDT
[#2]
You could also go with a cross bar. Two brackets zipped into the wall stud on either side of the door with a thick bit of lumber that slides between them blocking the door.
They'd need a saw to get through that or knock down the wall. Not very visually appealing and only works when someone is home and inside. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:22:22 PM EDT
[#3]
 Door Armor Independent Security Testing (how does it hold up?) believe the "this test was not sanctioned by our company" bullshit or not it's pretty impressive. I think the key is having a steel security door. I've seen other videos on YouTube that were done by other people that were just as impressive. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:23:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Steel door and metal door frame with 2 or 3 deadbolts top bottom middle
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:25:13 PM EDT
[#5]
Velcro net. the LOL would be great before you and your dog were blasted to death.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:25:17 PM EDT
[#6]
With break ins its almost never the door that fails but the door jamb itself. Most door jambs are nothing more than 1x8 boards that break and have screws rip out easily Or the dead bolt just rips right through the 1/2 inch of jamb it sits in. You need to reinforce the door jambs and get screws that will sink in deep hopefully past the jamb and into a stud.
The easiest thing to do is use a sold core door of some type and use long enough scres for the hinges to hit a stud. They reinforce the dead bolt side with metal plates that also sink the screws into a stud. Blind dead bolts top and bottom are also a good. I also use secrutiy screen doors which dont look like security doors for an added level of protection. They look like a simple screen door at first appearance. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Unique-Home-Designs-36-in-x-80-in-Almond-Surface-Mount-Ultimate-Security-Screen-Door-with-Meshtec-Screen-5V0002EL0AL00B/300801942 |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:30:09 PM EDT
[#7]
No wood, anywhere.
Steel door, frame, hardware, reinforcing, etc. Are you inside, when fortified? |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:30:42 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: With break ins its almost never the door that fails but the door jamb itself. Most door jambs are nothing more than 1x8 boards that break and have nails rip out easily Or the dead bolt just rips right through the 1/2 inch of jamb it sits in. You need to reinforce the door jambs and get screws that will sink in deep hopefully past the jamb and into a stud. Yep. Homes are fragile things. If you really wanted to you could create a sizeable hole in any wall or window without anything special. If someone wants in they'll get in. Same way with safes. If you want a bunker build a bunker. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:30:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Metal rolldown door. At that point you either need to be able to defeat the lock itself or bring a cutting torch.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:35:48 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Metal rolldown door. At that point you either need to be able to defeat the lock itself or bring a cutting torch. I have an angle grinder that would disagree with you. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:36:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No wood, anywhere. Steel door, frame, hardware, reinforcing, etc. Are you inside, when fortified? No, If I was there would be hell to pay.  This in a storage area in the garage, two doors, one into the garage and one to the outside. I would do both.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:36:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have an angle grinder that would disagree with you. LOFL, that wouldn't make a shit load of noise and take a long ass time... |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:39:03 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Homes are fragile things. If you really wanted to you could create a sizeable hole in any wall or window without anything special. If someone wants in they'll get in. Same way with safes. If you want a bunker build a bunker. True this, but the lazy crackheads around her will not work that hard. The walls are covered in cabinets and safes, brick on two walls, only about a two foot span on one wall that is not blocked inside. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:40:57 PM EDT
[#14]
Distribute the force. Use multiple deadbolts spaced apart from one another. Reinforce the jamb, and use long screws to secure the plate to the jamb.
If you go with an outward opening door, use hinge security pins. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:42:40 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:44:15 PM EDT
[#16]
A flimsy door and jamb.........and a deep hold covered by a scrap of carpet inside the doorway. Alligators optional.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:45:01 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryI remember the gun shows of the 80's too... |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:45:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOFL, that wouldn't make a shit load of noise and take a long ass time... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I have an angle grinder that would disagree with you. LOFL, that wouldn't make a shit load of noise and take a long ass time... You think you're joking but it would be quite quick. Not much louder than breaking a door down in the first place. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:48:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SclZfnFD4M0believe the "this test was not sanctioned by our company" bullshit or not it's pretty impressive. I think the key is having a steel security door. I've seen other videos on YouTube that were done by other people that were just as impressive. I have door jamb armor and trust it, but the company just happened to use the perfect wall for the demonstration. In a well built house the wall wouldn't budge and the door hardware and jamb would have to take the full instantaneous shock of impact. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:52:26 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You think you're joking but it would be quite quick. Not much louder than breaking a door down in the first place. ok, you would have to do at least a 1 foot wide by 2 or 3 foot tall hole to fit a normal human male. That is 6 feet of grinding through 26 gauge steel that is double thick in a lot of places. if you could do that in less than 5 minutes I would be impressed. Sustained noise over 100 decibels is going to attract a lot more attention than 1 swift kick. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:53:50 PM EDT
[#21]
Door Armor.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 4:56:51 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You could also go with a cross bar. Two brackets zipped into the wall stud on either side of the door with a thick bit of lumber that slides between them blocking the door. They'd need a saw to get through that or knock down the wall. Not very visually appealing and only works when someone is home and inside. Unless it's an outswing door 
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:02:16 PM EDT
[#23]
Your door is only as secure as your frame work.
Hinges and lock plates will always be a weak point. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:13:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Metal door and jamb anchored with longer screws.
Make sure the gaps are tight to limit an easy purchase point. Then I'd mount multiple security deadbolts. All that said. If the walls are drywall. Not much will stop a motivated person. And fwiw, a pair of channel locks and a hammer will open almost all dead bolts. Standard home locks keep out honest people and lazy thieves.  FF Survival Wall Breach |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:15:07 PM EDT
[#25]
In before the no knock warrant????
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:16:01 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ok, you would have to do at least a 1 foot wide by 2 or 3 foot tall hole to fit a normal human male. That is 6 feet of grinding through 26 gauge steel that is double thick in a lot of places. if you could do that in less than 5 minutes I would be impressed. Sustained noise over 100 decibels is going to attract a lot more attention than 1 swift kick. You only have to cut through a couple inches of latch, then the door opens. Actually the door may end up the strongest point, how easy is it to just go through the wall next to the door? Just 1/2 inch sheetrock on 2x4 is easy to go through with just your bare hands, though I would wear leather work gloves. Even an outside wall is often very easy to go through if it has that pressed board sheathing that is really just thick cardboard instead of plywood or chipboard. And remember, the cordless circular saws that are now available are designed to quickly and easily cut through everything walls are made off except brick & rock. You can use a diamond blade in them and go through brick and rock too, just not quickly and easily. Home Security is more preventing the goblins from knowing there is something worth stealing - they are lazy and won't make the effort for an unknown reward, but let them know there is something they really want and it's gone. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:17:25 PM EDT
[#27]
ost
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:21:35 PM EDT
[#28]
Just use hanging beads instead of a door and label the doorway "Unisex Toilet". That way no one will suspect there's anything of value in there.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:25:45 PM EDT
[#29]
Outswing door but with something heavier duty than the usual trim pieces.
If you are handy with a miter table of table saw, notch a 2x4 for the door so you have a solid piece backing the door. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:26:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Steel door and frame is ideal. I back that up with a Nightlock screwed into the floor behind the door. They'd have to apply enough force to break the door and shear off the Nightlock to get the door open.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:28:40 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Use 4" screws in the hinges, door and jamb side, then add one of THESE with 4 inch screws into the 2x4 behind the door jamb. Most of the door jamb reinforcement kits are pretty similar. Posted before, but the best price I've found for them, is still Home Depot @ ~$2x Home Depot Doorjamb reinforcement kit |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:29:29 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Outswing door but with something heavier duty than the usual trim pieces. If you are handy with a miter table of table saw, notch a 2x4 for the door so you have a solid piece backing the door. You can remove the hinge pins on an outswing door and gain access fairly easily, unless they've used special hardware.  [28] Door Hinge Bypass Attacks! |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:29:49 PM EDT
[#33]
I guess you don't have any windows, since you're only concerned about a door?
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:30:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Door Devil
https://www.doordevil.com |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:31:58 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Steel door and metal door frame with 2 or 3 deadbolts top bottom middle Yep. I've busted a lot of doors down in my life. The only ones that ever defeated us, were steel doors set in metal frames with good locks. We had one, that even had us laughing, because none of our entry equipment did anything to it, except scratch the paint. We were like, "I guess we just need to leave a note." Short of breaching explosives, that's your door that's not opening. But, if you've got glass windows, or a weaker door somewhere that allows access, it's all for nothing. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:37:35 PM EDT
[#36]
There are a number of devices that will strengthen a door.
There was a product called something like "KatyBar" that was popular here years ago. Looks like a updated design. $400  Fred |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:42:40 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Steel door and frame is ideal. I back that up with a Nightlock screwed into the floor behind the door. They'd have to apply enough force to break the door and shear off the Nightlock to get the door open. The Nightlock is the one that can be defeated by simply sliding a hacksaw blade (or similar) under the door, and sliding it out. It also wouldn't be an option for storage, where he's locking the door from the outside before leaving. For folks looking for home invasion deterrence though, the 3 most commonly available spring-type door barricades are the Nightlock, OnGuard and Door Club. They all work on the same principle: You drill into the floor behind the door to mount the base, which the device is inserted to when the door is closed. They're all made of spring steel, because the device is specifically designed to absorb and dissipate the force of impacts, which makes the door much harder to breach. Again, of the 3 designs, the Door Club (@ $2x) is the most inexpensive, but works just fine. The Nightlock is the only one of the 3 designs that can be defeated simply by sliding something under the bottom of the door, and sliding the device out (the Door Club and Onguard devices are inserted/removed vertically). |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:43:52 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you don't have any windows, since you're only concerned about a door? Nobody goes through a window. That wouldn't be fair. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:46:16 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There are a number of devices that will strengthen a door. There was a product called something like "KatyBar" that was popular here years ago. Looks like a updated design. $400 https://www.katybar.com/_images/open-close-door-KatyBar.gif Fred That animation would put the security on the outside of the house Aren't exterior doors required to open out? |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:46:30 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: True this, but the lazy crackheads around her will not work that hard. The walls are covered in cabinets and safes, brick on two walls, only about a two foot span on one wall that is not blocked inside. Unless someone built a bunker with bullet proof glass in all the windows, a brick rock will get most people entry through a window. Sure it will make noise, but so will using a battering ram like they showed on that door testing video. The challenge of home security vs burglar is sort of like the old challenge of tank armor vs firepower..when one gets increased, so does the other one. Short of a bunker, or having security similar to the whitehouse with all the secret service personnel, homes are vulnerable. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:46:50 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you don't have any windows, since you're only concerned about a door? Windows are what I think about too... |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:48:46 PM EDT
[#42]
If you have vinyl siding and build-rite sheathing, it wouldn’t matter.
A utility knife could get through. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:48:54 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Homes are fragile things. If you really wanted to you could create a sizeable hole in any wall or window without anything special. If someone wants in they'll get in. Same way with safes. If you want a bunker build a bunker. A house near me was broken into, the thief gained entry by tearing off some vinyl siding and sheathing on a part of the house hidden by bushes. Sneaky bastard wasn't playing fair. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:52:13 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess you don't have any windows, since you're only concerned about a door? correct, no windows. Only one spot about 2' wide not covered by cabinets. They would be lucky to find it. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 5:56:57 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The Nightlock is the one that can be defeated by simply sliding a hacksaw blade (or similar) under the door, and sliding it out. It also wouldn't be an option for storage, where he's locking the door from the outside before leaving. For folks looking for home invasion deterrence though, the 3 most commonly available spring-type door barricades are the Nightlock, OnGuard and Door Club. They all work on the same principle: You drill into the floor behind the door to mount the base, which the device is inserted to when the door is closed. They're all made of spring steel, because the device is specifically designed to absorb and dissipate the force of impacts, which makes the door much harder to breach. Again, of the 3 designs, the Door Club (@ $2x) is the most inexpensive, but works just fine. The Nightlock is the only one of the 3 designs that can be defeated simply by sliding something under the bottom of the door, and sliding the device out (the Door Club and Onguard devices are inserted/removed vertically). I've read that you could slide the Nightlock out with a blade and I've tried it. It relies on being able to see the Nightlock from outside, having enough room to get under the door seal (which is impossible on Provia Legacy steel doors) and you really need a gap between the Nightlock and the wall to shimmy it out. In my case, since you can't see the Nightlock from outside, even if you did defeat the door seal, there's nowhere to jam the blade because the Nightlock overlaps the door frame by a touch. It's unlikely someone would be able to pull all that off. I agree it's not suitable for a door where you need to lock and leave. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 6:05:02 PM EDT
[#46]
I am very fortunate that I live in an area where crime is almost non-existent. Mostly during deer season in hunter camps. Little bit of drugs, more DWI's than anything. I just refuse to let my guard down.
The improvements I want to make are more for my peace of mind than anything. But, it's always better to be prepared. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 6:06:10 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Windows are what I think about too... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I guess you don't have any windows, since you're only concerned about a door? Windows are what I think about too... 8mil or thicker window security film. Had a thread about this last Spring. You can double up and apply it on both the inside AND outside of the windows. DON'T forget to apply a bead of clear silicone sealant around the edge after applying the film (this bonds the film and glass pane to the frame, otherwise, the film prevents the glass from shattering, but the entire pane can be broken out of the frame much easier). The even better solution would be the mesh security screens some companies have available. They look like insect screens, but they're built to withstand knives, bricks and crowbars. The film stops the glass from shattering. While it won't stop a determined entry attempt, what it does, is delay it enough to alert the occupants and potentially deter the perp due to the amount of effort/noise required to breach. Properly applied film will require multiple full power swings with a baseball bat or hammer to breach a good window, as opposed to a window being easily smashed by a golf ball sized rock (or quietly being broken by putting a folded towel or similar against a window before smacking it). The disadvantage vs security screens is that the glass will still need to be replaced. The advantage of the security screens is that when properly installed, the intruder has a tough time even getting to the glass in the window, i.e. if someone throws a brick, hard, the film will stop the brick but it will probably still crack the glass. With the security screens, the brick would bounce off the screen, and the window wouldn't even need to be replaced |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 6:06:43 PM EDT
[#48]
its rather pointless to be honest.... You would need thick concrete walls, and vault doors to stop your average thief.. Give me a drill, and a sawzall, and I can beak into 90% of the homes in the county if I needed to... Your better off trying discourage people from wanting your things, Dogs, cameras, a big sign that says "my neighbors make more money a year than I do" ect...
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Posted: 1/20/2021 6:13:09 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. I've busted a lot of doors down in my life. The only ones that ever defeated us, were steel doors set in metal frames with good locks. We had one, that even had us laughing, because none of our entry equipment did anything to it, except scratch the paint. We were like, "I guess we just need to leave a note." Short of breaching explosives, that's your door that's not opening. But, if you've got glass windows, or a weaker door somewhere that allows access, it's all for nothing. At some point it gets ridiculous to fortify the door to a great degree, going through the wall next to it isn't that tough on most houses or garages |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 6:36:05 PM EDT
[#50]
 I got a 5 foot version of one of these gates and installed it just inside my front door. It should buy me some time hopefully. |
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