there was a thread a few weeks back on it.

but your costs are going to be a lot higher than carb.

expect 1200 to 2k depending on a few things.

FAST EZ efi,
FI Tech
Holley Sniper
are the 3 off the shelf ones people are using today, with a nod to the fi tech or sniper.

depending on how tech you are, megasquirt is cheaper, but requires a lot more hands on knowledge on your part.

any of the 3 will work, depending on sales etc.. some will be cheaper than others but that is about the range including fuel system upgrades you will need.

do a surge tank instead.
fi tech fuel commander or something is a bit eh, from what I understand.

It is a little more complex having 2 fuel pumps, but it was annoying to have the car lay down when I put my foot in it and had less than half a tank.

there are some good inexpensive ones that include a pump inside.
you can even then use a low pressure pump to fill it.

I choose to use 2 high pressure pumps, so if one dies, I can quickly bypass it and limp it home with the one pump.

https://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/

This is where I got a system for my Jeep crawler.

The fact that it's almost all GM oem parts makes repair way easy.

Much to read and learn.

_

Local mechanic/hotrodder has had bad luck with setting up the fitech and tuning it. He switched to a Holley Sniper EFI system and had no issues.
Here is another thread discussing various aftermarket FI systems.

well that is a choice to mount it under hood, but I mounted mine in back with the other pump.
I actually mounted both pumps just above the rear axle.
the bolts holding it come up behind the back seat.

Go pull a harness from a TBI small block van and take an hour to strip it and convert it to a standalone harness with only the stuff you need left. Easy to do and you can do a lot with a modded gm TBI.
One of my K5s is running a system like that on the original 350. BBC throttle body, sbc injectors, self modded harness repinned to use the 7427 PCM instead of the 7747 ecm, and running a 6.0 MAF instead of speed density. I datalog, burn chips, etc for it at home and have $400 tops into the entire swap. Driving from Colorado Springs to Phoenix gave me a 19mpg avg on a 73 k5 with a th350 and full time 4wd

ETA: go register on the gearhead efi forums...

GM made them with throttle body injection early on I believe. You should be able to get a fuel tank and pump that will drop right in (lol those cars are a BITCH to get the tank out), run new lines and harness to get it going. I would at least send them a message or call them to get their opinion. www.howellefi.com

Put the pump in the tank.  Yes it sucks to pull the tank but external pumps are obnoxiously loud and do not last as long.  Is your car not tpi?  The easy thing to do would be to run TPI with a stealth ram and use EBL to tune it.

I used the early version of EZ EFI in my '66 Mustang.  Haven't driven it enough to opine.  But I did drop about $500 in fuel lines and filters after purchasing the unit, and another $500 on the tank and FP that goes into it.  
My son has worked with the newer EZ system on a Factory 5 roadster and really likes it.  Right now he's working on a '92 SS454 they are installing FI Tech system on.  He's hoping to get it running by Christmas.

Are you wanting to keep your intake?

I want to do the swap on my 80 Vette. I’m tentatively planning on $2K after it’s all said and done, hopefully it’ll be more along the lines of $1500. But first, body and paint.

I am building my own EFI system around a speeduino ECM for my turbo Volkswagen

It’s going to returnless with an s10 filter regulator and an airtex E2000 fuel pump

I’m going to be well under a K buying lots of Volkswagen specific parts.

Something like a small block where I can get a junkyard EFI intake would be a breeze. If it were me I’d find an old TPI intake and rails.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=711409

Lol, oem gm tbi os installed on a duel plane intake. Ot works perfectly fine.

However, when i did my build i uses a single plane air gap intake with a tbi to four bolt carb adapter and a phenolic two hole spacer.
The tbi was dehorned, triple injector gaskets for spacers “cut the pos peice of aluminum that limits fuel line hight off”,  the injector stack was mirror polished, the tbi bore has a nice 220 or so grit finish. There was no serious wall fuel wetting. Obviously this was the BBC TBI.
It worked FANTASTIC, extreme velocity through the tbi into the single plane intake.
At idle the fuel cone was hitting the bores just inside the baseplate, under wot, is was sucked straight down through the bores with zero wall contact.
Everything was gasket matched and  left with a crispy 80 grit finish.
My AFRs where rock solid!
Fantastic throttle response with a little cam and 18hg at idle.

I was using a holley system.

As one guy above posted, grab a oem fuel sytem and wire harness, strip it down to exactly what you need.
As far as fuel pump, dont be a dweeb, cut a access door in the hump behind the back seats, you want to drop the tank atleast once to get it fully up to speed and plumbed corrctly, but after that, any work can be done by a proper access door under the carpet.
and for all hings holy! Wrap that tank in a sound deading material! Dear god i hated the fucking fuel pump whine!

Given your system, buy or build a “gm hotwire kit”. If you build use 10g wire and a proper 70 amp relay, not that chicken shit from a autoparts store,
Use quality power wire meant for a high end audio system for you power and ground. You will thank me for a solid steady fuel pressure and not burnning out relays. Solder and dbl heat shrink that shit, crimp fittings are for lame asses. And never use those pos yellow, blue red connectors, if you can get a real copper connector!
Fuel return are simple as fuck to setup, as one dude said, put the regulator at the tank, so no need to run another fuel line to the front.
Only bitch is running a vacumme source back to the regulator if you nd to ramp up fuel pressure with rpm.

Be smart, toss in a wally 255 at minimum, if yu got a pair and are going tp go big later, stuff in a 450.

Or say fuck all of this bull shit, yank and sell that legacy engine, toss in a LS 6.0 with a LSA blower retro kit and be done with it forever.
Legacy gm v8 is sissy shit and needs to just fucking die.

"Or say fuck all of this bull shit, yank and sell that legacy engine, toss in a LS 6.0 with a LSA blower retro kit and be done with it forever.
Legacy gm v8 is sissy shit and needs to just fucking die. "
.
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Listen to this man, for he speaketh TRVTH

This thread is of interest to me; my wife’s toy is an M1009 with a carb gas 350.

I’ve driven carbureted vehicles of all kinds for my entire life and just have a feel for how finicky they are, but starting that beast tests her patience.

I guess my one question for you who have considered this is, where do you draw the line at converting to TBI/FI versus just getting a different (TBI/FI) engine? In terms of money and time invested. My wife and I aren’t very handy people and an engine swap far exceeds our knowledge, space, and tool arsenal, so labor would be a factor.

On one hand, I’d like my wife to be more confident at how well the vehicle works so she can feel comfortable driving it more. As it is now she’s afraid to drive it without me or outside of town for fear it may not want to start. On the other hand, it’s considered an ongoing project vehicle/toy and it may be tough to justify the expense of a fuel system conversion or new engine.

If you switch the whole motor you still have the cost of the fuel injection added on top of the new motor. While I am not familiar with these new fuel injection units nobody I know ever regrets going fuel injection. If I had the money I would swap my bronco over tomorrow without a hesitation.

That's why you buy the entire engine as a drop out and get the injection with it.

He said new. Even with a pull out engine part of what you’re paying for is the injection. There are definitely some deals to be had though.

I’m going through the same thinking with my bronco.

Lol factory TBI uses a dual plane intake

Whats your point?

To the guys here honestly curious the self learning bolt on tb fi will almost surely be the least expensive and best bang for the buck mod you have done in a long time.

Is it the perfect efi? No.

Its far simpler than a homebuilt efi from donor parts or megasquirt and cheaper than any engine swap.

You will see improvement in every aspect of driving your car vs a carb and by now there is enough support on the web that you should be able to avoid any headaches.

Dont overthink the details or worry about which one makes 10 more hp.

TBI will run perfectly fine with a duel plane is my point, factory one is duel plane.

The fuel tank will be a pain in the ass, those are a pain in the ass for anyone pulling them down. I want to say it's about 4 hours labor by the book. There are suspension parts that have to come out. It's been years since I have pulled one of those apart. Plus any rust from it being a northern car.

Do you have a lift to do it on?

Are you gonna keep the car till you die?

If so make life easier on yourself. Cut that access hole

I've seen them done before. Some whoever cut it out made it look really good and hid it well.

Others, well not so much

Lol. Ok man.

In that case You WILL cut that hole. You just might not do in on the initial install.

Holley is king. Put a wide band in your car if you really care about it running rich. I had a third o2 sensor bung welded in my 4th gen when I had my custom exhaust built just for that. I'm going to have it redone in 3.5" before long. If it feels lazy and you have a manual with 2.73's might wanna start there.

Friend was considering putting one of these FI kits on his mild 355 S10 (aluminum 210cc heads, cam in the 240's at .5XX", single plane). He sold that setup for an iron block LS motor that'll more than likely have a carb on it but better spark control because coils.

Unless you're going dirt cheap, I would go multiport.

I converted my sending unit to AN fittings and ran braided line down to my Corvette style filter.  I'm also using a 340 pump in my tank.  I dropped my tank twice then the third time I cut a door.  I made it nice and clean with a aluminum panel that bolts down.  I wish I had done it the first time.  I have a very good template for cutting the panel that my buddy sent me.  Worked like a champ.

I have ran all nylon OEM style quick connect fuel lines on my Volkswagen and I must say they have dramatically cut down the fitting count and potential leak points down over the same system using AN

I used AN aeroquip fittings and braided lines exclusively.

It's been 6 years of beating the shit out of my rock crawler off road....no fuel leaks...no oil leaks...no power steering leaks.

I expect it to last many more years.

Plastic is fine for hula hoops and frisbee's.