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Posted: 11/4/2019 6:37:26 PM EDT
I want to get a 3D printer. My wife is always looking for suggestions for Christmas gifts and with the season approaching, I think I might start dropping hints.
I want something that is affordable, will do good quality work, is easy to operate and won't make me wish we had bought a better one. I don't mind tinkering and assembling my own from a kit. In fact, I love tinkering and assembling stuff.  But I also don't want her to order something only to discover I still need to buy this or that set of components to get printing.
In other words, I want a one box solution that will let me print strong parts with a good finish so I can spend a day or two learning it and have completed parts before going back to work after the holidays. |
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Posted: 11/4/2019 7:14:33 PM EDT
[#1]
While it isn't out yet, I would take a HARD look at the new Prusa Mini coming out.
Won't be arriving before Christmas, but any of the cheaper Chinese models will need a lot of tinkering. ETA: Not necessarily need lots of tinkering to get going out of the box, but they tend to need more tinkering to keep them going. Exceptions of course, and some mods/upgrades take care of many issues, and some folks just have great luck with them. The Ender 3 is pretty popular for Chinese printers. |
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Posted: 11/4/2019 10:12:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
While it isn't out yet, I would take a HARD look at the new Prusa Mini coming out. Won't be arriving before Christmas, but any of the cheaper Chinese models will need a lot of tinkering. ETA: Not necessarily need lots of tinkering to get going out of the box, but they tend to need more tinkering to keep them going. Exceptions of course, and some mods/upgrades take care of many issues, and some folks just have great luck with them. The Ender 3 is pretty popular for Chinese printers. |
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Posted: 11/4/2019 10:28:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Ive always liked the Tevo stuff and would suggest looking into the Tevo Tarantula Pro.
Very similar $ and mechanics as the over-hyped ender 3, but laid out a lil better and much better control board. Prusa is nice, but you pretty much paying for a rollmark there. You can get a lot more for your money elsewhere. |
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Posted: 11/5/2019 1:31:58 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ive always liked the Tevo stuff and would suggest looking into the Tevo Tarantula Pro. Very similar $ and mechanics as the over-hyped ender 3, but laid out a lil better and much better control board. Prusa is nice, but you pretty much paying for a rollmark there. You can get a lot more for your money elsewhere. |
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Posted: 11/5/2019 1:52:40 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ive always liked the Tevo stuff and would suggest looking into the Tevo Tarantula Pro. Very similar $ and mechanics as the over-hyped ender 3, but laid out a lil better and much better control board. Prusa is nice, but you pretty much paying for a rollmark there. You can get a lot more for your money elsewhere.  .
If your buying a kit, and you're not in it for the journey, just pony up the money and buy a preassembled unit. In the end it might actually be cheaper. I've got a lot of money spent in mods to my tarantula and from what I've spent putting together a Hypercube. |
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Posted: 11/5/2019 5:35:30 PM EDT
[#6]
The "bones" of the Ender 3 series are actually not bad, especially for the money. If you use care in getting things assembled correctly, i.e. square & with correct tightness on the offset wheels and belts, it can produce quality prints in PLA right from the first day.
The only updates that need doing right away are the bowden tube fittings, the level adjuster wheel springs & maybe going to a capricorn style bowden tube. After that, there are a variety of things you can do, but are really optional for the most part. For me, the first significant optional update was adding a bootloader & flashing the firmware with Marlin. That let me add manual mesh bed leveling which helped with the quality on my initial layer by compensating for minor waviness in the glass bed. There are quite a few off-the-shelf upgrades you could buy for an Ender 3 & still be well under the $500 mark. Not pushing Ender 3, but I've been satisfied with both the "bang for the buck" and the build capability I got with mine (it's my only 3d printer experience). There is a learning curve, but it isn't bad. |
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Posted: 11/5/2019 9:22:58 PM EDT
[#7]
I think that the Ender 3 is a very nice first printer. It prints well right out of the box and if you decide that you don't really like 3D printing then you're not out a lot of money.
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Posted: 11/5/2019 9:28:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Amazon Prime CR10S from the actual Creality store.
If anything fucks up or os broke out of box just submit a ticket and get the thing replaced within 24 hours. I like my CR10 S a ton. But thefirst one did arrive with broken bits. Had replacement coming within 5min of opening the box and fonding problem. |
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Posted: 11/5/2019 10:36:05 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Speaking as a Tevo owner, of the OG tarantula, I would never recommend them to anyone. Had way too many QC issues with their boards and beds (2 of which caught fire because of their shitty connectors). An Anet A8 would be a better starting point from which you can print the parts to make it into a much better printer. Granted by the time you're done with it, it'll look nothing like an A8 .
If your buying a kit, and you're not in it for the journey, just pony up the money and buy a preassembled unit. In the end it might actually be cheaper. I've got a lot of money spent in mods to my tarantula and from what I've spent putting together a Hypercube. If you put in the effort and make that thing your bitch, you will learn more, and faster, than any of the new-fangled easy button printers out nowadays. Not sure which connector you are talking about, but that is typically a user error problem (put together wrong or just not tight enough). Ive never had a prob with one, but I never underestimate peoples ability to fk things up
If the type that had the connector right on the bed, that is a strain relief prob that anybody with any mech aptitude would have known better than to let flop, and tuned up during assembly. For sure on the last part, different strokes for different folks. If you put in the effort and learn with a kit, shit gets real easy real quick once you get over the initial hump. You will know wtf is going on and be able to understand and fix whatever prob you run into. You pony up the big bucks for an easy button printer and it might be easier at 1st, but since you skipped a whole bunch of the basic stuff its gonna be a struggle every time you run into a prob because you dont understand what makes these things tick. |
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Posted: 11/6/2019 6:16:49 PM EDT
[#10]
Ok, so it looks like the Ender 3 is the way to go if I want to build a kit? (I do want to build a kit, part of the fun.)
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Posted: 11/6/2019 6:25:05 PM EDT
[#11]
The Ender 3 is not really a kit, the major components are already together & the electronics installed, just some assembly & cable connections required. The trick is to assemble the framework and gantry so things are square & secure and to adjust the eccentric wheels with just enough tension track without play.
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Posted: 11/6/2019 6:44:26 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The Ender 3 is not really a kit, the major components are already together & the electronics installed, just some assembly & cable connections required. The trick is to assemble the framework and gantry so things are square & secure and to adjust the eccentric wheels with just enough tension track without play. Any recommendations on type and brand of filament to get started with? |
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Posted: 11/6/2019 7:00:27 PM EDT
[#13]
I've been liking Atomic filament. Its a US company, products made in the USA. If you order from them, buy at least 2 spools at a time so they pack it in a box instead of a soft packaging, which tends to damage the rolls.
Otherwise I've had fine performance from Hatchbox on Amazon. |
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Posted: 11/6/2019 7:58:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Lately been using a lot of black eSun PLA+ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEMDA6/ with good results. Also this 3D Solutech natural clear PLA https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K
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Posted: 11/6/2019 9:26:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok, so it looks like the
You dont know why, and you wont for a few weeks/months, but the Tarantula Pro is what you want. When the Ender guys figure out wtf they are doing and start modding, the most common stuff they add is prob the stuff that comes stock on the Tarantula. And its still not as good as the Tarantula because of how tight CR packed everything. Tarantula Pro is more of a kit. A few of the assemblies are partially assembled though. Its easy, I didnt even look at the instructions when I put mine together (not my 1st rodeo though). Helped a buddy put his ender together, was not a fan. Shit just wayy too tight and cumbersome to deal with. |
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Posted: 11/7/2019 12:54:42 AM EDT
[#16]
Im in kinda the same boat as the OP. Any reason not to look at the resin style printers? they seem really appealing with good print resolution and high strength.
only downside seems to be the size. I mainly just want to print some 37mm/40mm projectile parts/ NVG parts/accessories/ and things like stage savers for 3-gun. plus once i get good at CAD im sure ill be making my own designed good stuff |
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Posted: 11/7/2019 2:46:49 AM EDT
[#17]
I'm mostly going to be printing camera accessories, amateur radio/electronics accessories, toys for my kids and maybe some gun stuff down the line.
I am not opposed to upgrading to a bigger and better printer in the future after I can demonstrate its usefulness to my wife. When I can print some cute jewelry for our kids she will be totally on board. Things like phone cases will interest her the most but she will probably expect much higher print quality than is realistic. Of course you can always sand and polish, right? |
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Posted: 11/7/2019 10:31:14 AM EDT
[#18]
Yup, you can post process to make some awesome looking stuff
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Posted: 11/7/2019 3:36:04 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OG will def make you, or break you lol. If you put in the effort and make that thing your bitch, you will learn more, and faster, than any of the new-fangled easy button printers out nowadays. Not sure which connector you are talking about, but that is typically a user error problem (put together wrong or just not tight enough). Ive never had a prob with one, but I never underestimate peoples ability to fk things up
If the type that had the connector right on the bed, that is a strain relief prob that anybody with any mech aptitude would have known better than to let flop, and tuned up during assembly. For sure on the last part, different strokes for different folks. If you put in the effort and learn with a kit, shit gets real easy real quick once you get over the initial hump. You will know wtf is going on and be able to understand and fix whatever prob you run into. You pony up the big bucks for an easy button printer and it might be easier at 1st, but since you skipped a whole bunch of the basic stuff its gonna be a struggle every time you run into a prob because you dont understand what makes these things tick. The board connectors started to show signs of failure despite being right. I removed them and soldered direct to the board. All was good for ~3mo then I had a stepper driver die, and since they're integral to the board it can't be replaced. I modified the firmware to use the second extruders driver as the Y axis. I learned a ton from it, so as disappointed as I am in their support/QAQC of parts I did learn to fix quite literally everything on it. Which paved the way for my second printer build and laid the foundation for the CNC router I'm planning. As soon as the second printer is up and running I'll be tearing down the Tevo and addressing some glaring issues with the frame. It'll end up looking more like a Taz in the end and I want it setup with a direct drive extruder for printing flexibles and a quick change tool head for a laser. All linear motion will be handled by linear rails or rods and the Z axis will be handled by direct drive steppers. The only remaining Tevo parts will be a few steppers IIRC. Possibly some extrusions, T nuts, and joining pieces. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 11:22:27 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FTFY
You dont know why, and you wont for a few weeks/months, but the Tarantula Pro is what you want. When the Ender guys figure out wtf they are doing and start modding, the most common stuff they add is prob the stuff that comes stock on the Tarantula. And its still not as good as the Tarantula because of how tight CR packed everything. Tarantula Pro is more of a kit. A few of the assemblies are partially assembled though. Its easy, I didnt even look at the instructions when I put mine together (not my 1st rodeo though). Helped a buddy put his ender together, was not a fan. Shit just wayy too tight and cumbersome to deal with. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Ok, so it looks like the
You dont know why, and you wont for a few weeks/months, but the Tarantula Pro is what you want. When the Ender guys figure out wtf they are doing and start modding, the most common stuff they add is prob the stuff that comes stock on the Tarantula. And its still not as good as the Tarantula because of how tight CR packed everything. Tarantula Pro is more of a kit. A few of the assemblies are partially assembled though. Its easy, I didnt even look at the instructions when I put mine together (not my 1st rodeo though). Helped a buddy put his ender together, was not a fan. Shit just wayy too tight and cumbersome to deal with. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 2:50:39 PM EDT
[#21]
Option A: Save another $250 and get a Prusa i3
Option B: Get an Ender 3 (or 5, which would be the way I'd go) right now. Option C: Wait on the Prusa Mini. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 5:47:06 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Option A: Save another $250 and get a Prusa i3 Option B: Get an Ender 3 (or 5, which would be the way I'd go) right now. Option C: Wait on the Prusa Mini. The new Tarantula RS looks like a sweet setup (32bit, AC bed) for a bit more coin, but I would suggest not jumping straight into 32bit. It is basically the same as an ender3, but Tevo did a better job dotting t's and crossing i's. Tevo doesnt come with some weird low end board like the ender. Tarantula Pro comes with prob the most popular board available now (MKS Gen L) that will cover you all the way until you jump to 32bit. No Prusa. Get one of the inexpensive ones in case this hobby isnt for you. Might be slightly more difficult the 1st week, but the things you learn in that week are things that you need to know if you want to get anywhere with this stuff. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 5:50:53 PM EDT
[#23]
That is where the Prusa mini comes in.
$350 and Prusa quality, implementation and support. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 6:43:55 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tevo Tarantula Pro. Seriously. The new Tarantula RS looks like a sweet setup (32bit, AC bed) for a bit more coin, but I would suggest not jumping straight into 32bit. It is basically the same as an ender3, but Tevo did a better job dotting t's and crossing i's. Tevo doesnt come with some weird low end board like the ender. Tarantula Pro comes with prob the most popular board available now (MKS Gen L) that will cover you all the way until you jump to 32bit. No Prusa. Get one of the inexpensive ones in case this hobby isnt for you. Might be slightly more difficult the 1st week, but the things you learn in that week are things that you need to know if you want to get anywhere with this stuff. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Option A: Save another $250 and get a Prusa i3 Option B: Get an Ender 3 (or 5, which would be the way I'd go) right now. Option C: Wait on the Prusa Mini. The new Tarantula RS looks like a sweet setup (32bit, AC bed) for a bit more coin, but I would suggest not jumping straight into 32bit. It is basically the same as an ender3, but Tevo did a better job dotting t's and crossing i's. Tevo doesnt come with some weird low end board like the ender. Tarantula Pro comes with prob the most popular board available now (MKS Gen L) that will cover you all the way until you jump to 32bit. No Prusa. Get one of the inexpensive ones in case this hobby isnt for you. Might be slightly more difficult the 1st week, but the things you learn in that week are things that you need to know if you want to get anywhere with this stuff. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 9:42:01 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The reason why I suggest Creality Ender printers at the low end is because they have a gigantic community. When you're starting out, you're gonna run into a ton of issues. The thing with Enders is, someone has already had all the issues and will know exactly what to do about it. Tevo doesn't have that characteristic. If you are just looking for something cheap and super capable, then I'd say look at a Sapphire. But... Good luck. In the end, these things are all pretty much the same so often doesnt matter what community you are looking at. One of the handiest things I figured out early on was to add "reprap" to my goog searches. This pulls in waayy more good hits than just typing in something like "xxx printer extruder clicking". |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 10:14:21 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CR community may be bigger, but Tevo community is big enough that it wont make a difference. In the end, these things are all pretty much the same so often doesnt matter what community you are looking at. One of the handiest things I figured out early on was to add "reprap" to my goog searches. This pulls in waayy more good hits than just typing in something like "xxx printer extruder clicking". Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: The reason why I suggest Creality Ender printers at the low end is because they have a gigantic community. When you're starting out, you're gonna run into a ton of issues. The thing with Enders is, someone has already had all the issues and will know exactly what to do about it. Tevo doesn't have that characteristic. If you are just looking for something cheap and super capable, then I'd say look at a Sapphire. But... Good luck. In the end, these things are all pretty much the same so often doesnt matter what community you are looking at. One of the handiest things I figured out early on was to add "reprap" to my goog searches. This pulls in waayy more good hits than just typing in something like "xxx printer extruder clicking". |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 11:11:15 PM EDT
[#27]
Never really messed with reddit.
Pretty much all the mfg of these things do their support work through FB groups nowadays, or more often, let the community do it for them. All of the official groups I have seen from any mfg are extremely active. Ask any q's you want, and Id be surprised if you didnt get a reply in less than 5mins. |
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Posted: 11/20/2019 11:49:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Or get a quality printer like a Prusa and not have to constantly futz with weird problems and QC based issues
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:34:12 AM EDT
[#29]
Im sure even prusa has their probs, but like any tier 1 gear, people keep it a lil more on the dl because they wont be able to bitch to high heaven and blame the gear
Same for fancy hotends when people cant figure out how to assemble the one they have. Same for fancy extruders when the hotend is jamming because its not assembled properly. Same fore fancy slicers when they cant sit down long enough to figure out the free ones. The very best thing about s3d is the $150 worth of motivation hanging over peoples heads
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:43:19 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im in kinda the same boat as the OP. Any reason not to look at the resin style printers? they seem really appealing with good print resolution and high strength. only downside seems to be the size. I mainly just want to print some 37mm/40mm projectile parts/ NVG parts/accessories/ and things like stage savers for 3-gun. plus once i get good at CAD im sure ill be making my own designed good stuff |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:43:22 AM EDT
[#31]
Lol
S3D will die. When I got it, the free slicers sucked. Bad. Now they are so close, give it a year or two and they will be as good or better. We do come to a point where slicers can only do so much. Once everybody builds in those features, and for free, it's the death nail for paid software. Maybe S3D introduced built in non-planer printing? Stuff like that would keep them in business. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:49:54 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im sure even prusa has their probs, but like any tier 1 gear, people keep it a lil more on the dl because they wont be able to bitch to high heaven and blame the gear
Same for fancy hotends when people cant figure out how to assemble the one they have. Same for fancy extruders when the hotend is jamming because its not assembled properly. Same fore fancy slicers when they cant sit down long enough to figure out the free ones. The very best thing about s3d is the $150 worth of motivation hanging over peoples heads |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:52:06 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lol S3D will die. When I got it, the free slicers sucked. Bad. Now they are so close, give it a year or two and they will be as good or better. We do come to a point where slicers can only do so much. Once everybody builds in those features, and for free, it's the death nail for paid software. Maybe S3D introduced built in non-planer printing? Stuff like that would keep them in business. I doubt they are going anywhere any time soon though, there will always be the "it costs more, its gotta be better" more money than brains types out there. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 12:53:55 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ... Yeah, it's all a big conspiracy. You're really not getting anything for the extra money a prusa costs. They've sold 150k of them based on smoke and mirrors.
I never said they were bad printers, only that werent the flawless perfection the fanbois make them out to be. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 9:22:45 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Easy Tiger
I never said they were bad printers, only that werent the flawless perfection the fanbois make them out to be. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: ... Yeah, it's all a big conspiracy. You're really not getting anything for the extra money a prusa costs. They've sold 150k of them based on smoke and mirrors.
I never said they were bad printers, only that werent the flawless perfection the fanbois make them out to be. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 10:32:53 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im in kinda the same boat as the OP. Any reason not to look at the resin style printers? they seem really appealing with good print resolution and high strength. only downside seems to be the size. I mainly just want to print some 37mm/40mm projectile parts/ NVG parts/accessories/ and things like stage savers for 3-gun. plus once i get good at CAD im sure ill be making my own designed good stuff OP, I suggest ender 3 pro. It's what we have. Once you get the bed level and a few upgrades under your belt, you will be hooked. The first upgrade I suggest is a direct drive. It gets rid of the boden tube. Ours kept coming loose and creating issues. The direct drive kit fixed this. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 1:51:30 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Build volume and post processing are generally the downside to cheaper resin printers. The upside is the detail on small parts you get. OP, I suggest ender 3 pro. It's what we have. Once you get the bed level and a few upgrades under your belt, you will be hooked. The first upgrade I suggest is a direct drive. It gets rid of the boden tube. Ours kept coming loose and creating issues. The direct drive kit fixed this. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Im in kinda the same boat as the OP. Any reason not to look at the resin style printers? they seem really appealing with good print resolution and high strength. only downside seems to be the size. I mainly just want to print some 37mm/40mm projectile parts/ NVG parts/accessories/ and things like stage savers for 3-gun. plus once i get good at CAD im sure ill be making my own designed good stuff OP, I suggest ender 3 pro. It's what we have. Once you get the bed level and a few upgrades under your belt, you will be hooked. The first upgrade I suggest is a direct drive. It gets rid of the boden tube. Ours kept coming loose and creating issues. The direct drive kit fixed this. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 5:01:24 PM EDT
[#38]
Over all, Creality makes a slightly better printer than Tevo. My Ender 3 is super reliable. The Tevo has to be fiddled with constantly.
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Posted: 11/21/2019 5:59:22 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How much did this upgrade cost? Quote HistoryQuoted:
How much did this upgrade cost? https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/ender-3-direct-drive-upgrade-kit/ Not going to lie, I saw it the first time and was skeptical. Prints have been much better and no feeding failures like we constantly got with the boden tube. I think the next upgrade will be this: https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-y-axis-linear-rail-kit/ https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-xz-axis-linear-rail-kit/ Kinda feels like we are pimping out a pinto at this point, but we have been really happy with how the ender performs. I figure I'd put a little more money into the ender, versus buying another (which I currently dont have room for). I'd really like to do ABS as well but I have to print the corners and buy the plastic sheets, just havent gotten around to it. Quoted:
Over all, Creality makes a slightly better printer than Tevo. My Ender 3 is super reliable. The Tevo has to be fiddled with constantly. |
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Posted: 11/21/2019 7:25:09 PM EDT
[#40]
I did not know there was a kit to convert away from the wheels to rails. If you get it let me klnow how it turns out cause now you got me eying it
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Posted: 11/21/2019 8:21:32 PM EDT
[#41]
Will do. I'm not sure how new it is, but there arent a whole lot of reviews on them right now. I may wait till after the new year to see if more come out
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Posted: 11/21/2019 8:44:19 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I haven't played with a tevo but I can attest to the ender. Get the bed level, keep it clean, keep an eye on the boden stuff if you're not converting and you will have a great 1st 3d printer. Do a decent job putting them together, and after you get a feel for setting up the 1st layer so you arent having to jackhammer things off the bed, you go months without having to touch them. |
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Posted: 11/23/2019 10:07:09 PM EDT
[#43]
How large are the parts you're expecting to print?
If they're small you can get a resin printer (Elegoo Mars, Photon/Photon S, Epax X1) for the neighborhood of $300 US. The Epax might cost a bit more, it's assembled in the US from the standard Chinesium parts. |
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Posted: 11/23/2019 10:10:31 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm mostly going to be printing camera accessories, amateur radio/electronics accessories, toys for my kids and maybe some gun stuff down the line. I am not opposed to upgrading to a bigger and better printer in the future after I can demonstrate its usefulness to my wife. When I can print some cute jewelry for our kids she will be totally on board. Things like phone cases will interest her the most but she will probably expect much higher print quality than is realistic. Of course you can always sand and polish, right? |
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Posted: 11/23/2019 10:58:38 PM EDT
[#45]
Are these cheap resin printers using durable resin?
They are getting cheap enough to have one for "those" prints. |
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Posted: 11/24/2019 12:47:14 AM EDT
[#46]
I think most of the resins can be used in all of them. Just have to do some tweaks. I've never done resin though, so ymmv.
Based on the reviews, they are all capable of printing well. It seems the epax stuff is a little higher quality, and they use really strong uv leds, so it printed a little faster than the others. Seems like it definitely offered a little more for the extra money, but the Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon both do great work. The new peopoly printer looks damn interesting. Not cheap, but for that build volume it's a steal. You could also print stuff that uses $200 worth of resin though.
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Posted: 11/26/2019 3:59:50 PM EDT
[#47]
No, there are laser sls and MSLA (lcd) resins. I don't know what happens if you use the wrong one, but they are sold and marketed separately. Probably incomplete or no curing if the light is on the wrong wavelength.
Fortunately there are tough MSLA / LCD resins. Siraya blu compares favorably to PETG and PLA in terms of strength and is not particulalr vulnerable to temp changes either. There are also flexible resins on the market to boot. You may need to heat an enclosed build chamber for some of them (not to anything particularly high. I use a plant heater mat control switch, temp probe, and a 600w ceramic heater in a large container to keep it around 85 degrees F for siraya blu). As the resin curing reaction is exothermic the heater won't run much after you start anyway. FWIW I have a photon and it's super fun, although there really isn't anything to tinker with on it. It just... works. That almost takes some of the magic out of it. It sounds like the original photon is a more consistent and better assembled product than the S despite the specs difference, and the elegoo mars may be the best choice overall. The new peopoly is crazy awesome with that build size but long term cost of ownership may be an issue. Slicers for resin printers will allow you to hollow your prints and they won't use as much resin as you might think. But, they consider the LCD panels themselves as consumable with 400 hours life. I guess that's a lot of prints, but still... then the FEP film is also a consumable to boot. |
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Posted: 11/29/2019 10:54:33 AM EDT
[#48]
Relevant. Tldr; Artillery Sidewinder, Prusa mini, and the Epaxx X1. The Epaxx is apparently a stud; very similar to other resin printers, but with US based support and superior build quality.
 The "BEST" 3D Printers for Beginners! My top picks for 2019 |
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Posted: 11/29/2019 11:00:25 AM EDT
[#49]
Ender 3 just dropped to $169, so that was worth a try. Bought one last night.
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Posted: 11/29/2019 11:33:31 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ender 3 just dropped to $169, so that was worth a try. Bought one last night. My only change to my Ender 3 is a WhamBam print surface. |
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