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Posted: 1/17/2021 3:14:59 PM EDT
Specifically looking at what years. On the hunt for a low mileage beater
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 3:31:52 PM EDT
[#1]
The owner is a greater determining factor.  Given what I've seen, single owner 2010ish corolla
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 3:58:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Usually I would say Corolla or Camry, but there are some years to avoid. 2009 and maybe 2010 Corollas had issues with the variable valve timing. I think certain years of the 2.4 engine found in the Camry (as well as some Scions) had issues with the pistons that would cause excessive oil consumption. A quick browse through carcomplaints.com should let you know which to avoid.
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 4:04:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 6:51:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Corolla or Civic.

both are pretty dead nuts reliable
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 7:15:27 PM EDT
[#5]
Corolla. Condition and mileage being equal probably the older it is the more reliable it will be simply because there is less to possibly go wrong.  I've had a couple of early '90s ones I bought for a few hundred bucks from recent high school graduates (rode hard and put away wet) and I treated them like rentals and couldn't kill them.  Gave one to friend of my wife's who was down on her luck and she eventually rolled it.  The other was crashed by my stepson in his first year of driving.  I currently drive a Pontiac Vibe which is based on the Corolla.  It's just about to hit 200k and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to Alaska tomorrow.
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 7:16:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Grandmas Buick.
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 7:25:29 PM EDT
[#7]
Early to mid 90s hondas.
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 7:27:15 PM EDT
[#8]
I had an 08 Kia Spectra that I bought new w2ith 18 miles on it. I sold it in 2020 with 275K on it, no major issues, didnt do any of the recommended maintenance on time - like 75k mile service at 120k, 150k miles service at 200k etc. It was an awesome commuter, I'd love to find another low mileage Kia or Hyundai that was that reliable.
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 11:43:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Grandpa's Crown Vic or Grand Marquis.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 12:16:30 AM EDT
[#10]
2006-2012 Corolla.

Check to see if it needed pistons because of bad rings though.

Other than that they are bulletproof.

Link Posted: 1/18/2021 7:00:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Grandmas Buick.
View Quote



No fucking way in hell.

GM can build decent trucks, but their full-size cars have been steaming piles of shit for at least the past 30 years...and probably longer. The 3.8L V6 is a great engine, and it will easily outlast the garbage transmissions they pair it with and leave you with a $4k car that runs great but needs a $2500-$3000 transmission replacement.

The used Japanese stuff will cost you more going in, but will save you money in the long run on repairs.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 8:51:28 AM EDT
[#12]
Pre 3.6 caravans are tanks. I have a handful in my fleet at work with over 300k on original engine and trans. My beater van has 362,000 on it and I don't fear driving it anywhere.

The newer 3.6 vans do not hold up as well.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 9:27:24 AM EDT
[#13]
One owner 2010-up Mazda 3.

What Toyota used to be.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 9:33:37 AM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 9:37:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Folks have an 04 honda civic which just will not die.  other than a few things needing replacement due to rust (NH = salt on the roads in winter) the thing has been completely reliable.  i think the car may outlive them.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 11:12:01 AM EDT
[#16]
I sold my 05 4 cylinder Accord with 405,000 miles on it. It was boringly reliable with regular maintenance. It is still running down the road today.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 1:03:17 PM EDT
[#17]
Corolla (gets the nod... ) or Civic. Pic one in your budget with lowest miles and taken care of.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 1:29:07 PM EDT
[#18]
92 to 00 Civic
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 4:20:30 PM EDT
[#19]
Will also go with Corolla for small or Camry for midsize. Lexus ES 300/330/350 if you want a bit more niceties for a little more money at the risk of a few more potential failure points.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 4:39:34 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I haven’t been to an auto auction in a few years, but 1990s Cavaliers would sell for next to nothing and I know many people who have owned them and they have been super reliable. Probably not many left out there that were well cared-for.

Would I ever buy one? No. Are they relatively safe? No. Do they have their share of problems? Not as much as you’d imagine.
View Quote

Like you said, probably a moot point since their aren't many still on the road, but I had a '90 and a '97 2.2 liter Cav's, bought for a bout $1K/each, and I drove them both to over 250K miles, and sold each of them for something like $400 still running and driving fine(ish).

Link Posted: 1/18/2021 4:44:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Corolla, or a rebadged one like a Pontiac Vibe or Geo/Chevy Prism.

I've seen an original engine/transmission Vibe go 450k.  I would be stunned if one didn't go 250k.

No timing belt.  Parts are cheap. Just throw tires/oil/brakes at it when needed, maybe some wheel bearings at high miles.
Link Posted: 1/18/2021 9:08:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Like you said, probably a moot point since their aren't many still on the road, but I had a '90 and a '97 2.2 liter Cav's, bought for a bout $1K/each, and I drove them both to over 250K miles, and sold each of them for something like $400 still running and driving fine(ish).

View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I haven’t been to an auto auction in a few years, but 1990s Cavaliers would sell for next to nothing and I know many people who have owned them and they have been super reliable. Probably not many left out there that were well cared-for.

Would I ever buy one? No. Are they relatively safe? No. Do they have their share of problems? Not as much as you’d imagine.

Like you said, probably a moot point since their aren't many still on the road, but I had a '90 and a '97 2.2 liter Cav's, bought for a bout $1K/each, and I drove them both to over 250K miles, and sold each of them for something like $400 still running and driving fine(ish).



The Chevy Cobalt is the replacement. Same 2.2L Ecotec.  I said I'd drive mine into the ground.  I'm kinda regretting saying that, it's at 185k and showing no signs of quitting, runs strong and burns relatively little oil.  

Did all four wheel bearings at the first sign of one going bad. Tie rod ends and rear brake lines when they started looking pretty rusty. Paid a place to replace the fuel line when it rotted through. That's been it.

I'd say get the manual trans.  Wife had the Saturn equivalent of a Cavalier in college, transmission went out around 140k.  Cobalt hasn't needed a new clutch yet.

4 cyl manual trans Hyundai Sonata from late 2000s has been even better though. Just a VVT solenoid and an oil pan. 165k on that one.  Probably need a new clutch soon.
Link Posted: 1/20/2021 7:13:32 AM EDT
[#23]
Life is short. Lots of low and moderate mileage boomer owned Miata's out there for $3.5-4.5K. Downside is their usually automatics at the lower price points. They are very dependable and easy to wrench on with great parts availability. Why shitbox when you can zoom zoom?
Link Posted: 1/20/2021 7:59:15 AM EDT
[#24]
Corolla or Yaris(not Yaris IA that’s a Mazda which is basically a Japanese Ford). We see basically zero issues out of the Yaris(again don’t look at the Yaris IA, cause it’s a rebadged Mazda).
Link Posted: 1/20/2021 9:07:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Corolla or Yaris(not Yaris IA that’s a Mazda which is basically a Japanese Ford). We see basically zero issues out of the Yaris(again don’t look at the Yaris IA, cause it’s a rebadged Mazda).
View Quote

My family had an '07 Yaris since about '10.  I don't know is it was an "IA" or not?  It was a great econobox.  The gauges being in the middle of the dash was annoying, but I got used to it.
Link Posted: 1/20/2021 7:07:50 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Life is short. Lots of low and moderate mileage boomer owned Miata's out there for $3.5-4.5K. Downside is their usually automatics at the lower price points. They are very dependable and easy to wrench on with great parts availability. Why shitbox when you can zoom zoom?
View Quote

thats a good point. I could probably get a kit car body in the future
Link Posted: 1/20/2021 7:35:05 PM EDT
[#27]
+1 for 2007 Yaris.  Mine's a standard transmission.  It's beat to hell and still running fine. My three oldest learned to drive stick with it.
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 8:54:07 AM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
+1 for 2007 Yaris.  Mine's a standard transmission.  It's beat to hell and still running fine. My three oldest learned to drive stick with it.
View Quote

If they can drive a gutless 4 banger with a manual, they oughta be able to drive about anything!
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 10:21:52 AM EDT
[#29]
has anyone mentioned civic or corolla yet?  They've sort of been the pinnacle of 4 door econoboxes for ~30 years.  My ex had a yaris, was an ok car but I'd not choose it unless you REALLY needed to pinch pennies for commuting and/or delivery type jobs.
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 10:24:57 AM EDT
[#30]
corolla or civic

camry or accord if you need more space

.
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 10:27:40 AM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 10:39:09 AM EDT
[#32]
My 97 civic was awesome and made it 235k with minimal repairs until step daughter launched it into a tree.


There are some civics to avoid that had issues with engine blocks cracking , but as above Corolla , Camry , or civic will be pretty dang good.
Link Posted: 1/22/2021 12:01:08 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I sold my 05 4 cylinder Accord with 405,000 miles on it. It was boringly reliable with regular maintenance. It is still running down the road today.
View Quote
This. Mid-late 2000's accord 4 cyl.

No turbos or cylinder deactivation crap. Just a low output n/a 4 cyl.
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