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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:15:31 PM EDT
[#1]
 Proper wire joint and soldering 3 way |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:40:14 PM EDT
[#2]
First post along with two layers of shrink wrap is what I do.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:47:20 PM EDT
[#3]
For quick and easy I use Posi-tap.
For permanent I strip a section and solder it on, then tape with zip-tie over the tape. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:48:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: First post along with two layers of shrink wrap is what I do. How do you put shrink wrap without access to the end of the wire? Or do you cut it to put on shrink wrap? |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:51:08 PM EDT
[#5]
I've done my share of soldering. I think though this time I'll rough it in using some kind of crimp on. Hopefully theres a new and improved crimp on.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:53:34 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How do you put shrink wrap without access to the end of the wire? Or do you cut it to put on shrink wrap? Good question? Also how do strip insulation without cutting wire. Very carefully I'm sure but was wondering if there was some trick. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 7:54:30 PM EDT
[#7]
this one, jelly filled, work good.
have to be the jell ones of whatever type https://www.mcmaster.com/7063K32 |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 8:01:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How do you put shrink wrap without access to the end of the wire? Or do you cut it to put on shrink wrap? Unpin from nearest connector. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 8:04:23 PM EDT
[#9]
If it was mine.
I'd de-pin the connector up at the light socket, slip some double wall shrink tube on the wire and do your splice a few inches away from the socket. Solder or a parallel crimp splice. I prefer the parallel crimps splices over solder. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 8:06:48 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it was mine. I'd de-pin the connector up at the light socket, slip some double wall shrink tube on the wire and do your splice a few inches away from the socket. Solder or a parallel crimp splice. I prefer the parallel crimps splices over solder. Which make/model parallel crimp splice. Seems to be several ones out there. Some have self sealing adhesive in them. I guess they would be good to use? |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 8:09:29 PM EDT
[#11]
I've done 87 million wire taps using butt connections by inserting two wire in one end and one in the other. If it's going to be in the elements wrap it with tape or use a heat shrink connector.
Soldering is great and all but it's almost never done in the professional world. Never ever use a scotch lock. |
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Posted: 1/20/2021 9:08:43 PM EDT
[#12]
I would do FP's soldering splice, but, afterwards, cover it with liquid electrical tape, then while it's still wet, slide over some heatshrink. The liquid electrical tape will make it waterproof, and the heatshrink will protect it.
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Posted: 1/20/2021 11:30:43 PM EDT
[#13]
If you want better than a posi-tap or those wire taps shown on the mcmaster link "scotch lock"
 (all those things are crap, even the good ones) but less work than physically braiding the wires together than soldering them ...Just get a butt-crimp that's big enough to take both wires, and on the side where there's only one wire, strip the line back far enough to double the wire over. Strip the wire, twist the strands so they aren't straight, than bend it over and crimp. Use heatshrink or tape. Go on your merry way. There's absolutely no way I would have EVER used a posi-tap or other wire tap ... or any variant thereof (that I have seen) in a critical circuit. I have had too many fail on me. Around 20 years time as an LMR radio installer, have done more cop cars and ambulances than you could shake a stick at. |
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Posted: 1/21/2021 7:52:34 AM EDT
[#14]
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll use a butt crimp and strip the power wire enough to u bend and insert that in one end of butt and the powered device(back up lights) wire in the other. Put some some electrical tape/zip tie for strain relief. Thats if I have room. If its too tight then I'll use a crimp on tap since these are auxiliary back up lights, not mission critical, in addition to those in factory light fixture. Need to determine what gauge it is if I have to crimp
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Posted: 1/21/2021 9:45:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Do not use any type of scotch lock, you'll be back fixing/redoing it in under a year. If you splice with a butt connector, buy the ones with solder inside and shrink tube on the outside. They're available at parts stores but you'll have to ask, they're typically not on the shelf by the other butt connectors. Buy a cheap butane torch and use gentle heat, the solder takes a bit to melt.
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Posted: 1/22/2021 2:32:18 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do not use any type of scotch lock, you'll be back fixing/redoing it in under a year. If you splice with a butt connector, buy the ones with solder inside and shrink tube on the outside. They're available at parts stores but you'll have to ask, they're typically not on the shelf by the other butt connectors. Buy a cheap butane torch and use gentle heat, the solder takes a bit to melt. You can actually buy uninsulated butt crimps, crimp them on, and than just flood them with solder by putting the iron right in the middle of the crimp and feeding the solder in the ends, and finishing with tape or heat shrink. That's what I do when I need a really good mechanical and electrical connection. You always have to remember to crimp before you solder when you do that though. if you solder than crimp, the solder will squeeze out of the joint and the wires are liable to get loose. |
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Posted: 1/24/2021 12:19:59 AM EDT
[#17]
That sounds like a good deal too, buy a length of shrink tube and shrink over it. REMEMBER to put the shrink tube on first lol
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