Shifts fine 123 and 10 11 12.

The gears in the middle are a mess. Now if i adjust the barrel adjuster i can move the problem up and down the gears...

It will jump up and down the gears.

The only adjustment problem i could find was the b screw not right but never had it jump off the cogs.

Chain Isnt worn, hanger and derailure tight. It has taken some damage but way before the shifting issue started, no excessive wear to any parts.

Any ideas?

Have you pulled the cassette and inspected?  I had the same issue with a cassette that.popped a.couple rivets in the middle gears.

You said the hanger was tight. But is it straight? Do you have a Park DAG-2.2?

Rivets seem fine, everything seems tight, I do not have a derailure alignment tool.

It does seem to be the most likely problem, or the derailure cage does look slightly askew.

Huh... Mighty be a good tool to have.

Possible causes

- worn shifter cable/housing. When you replace it go ahead and double check your high and low limit adjustments.

- crank/chainring/wheel loose.  This has happened to me. The chainring (direct mount) was barely loose. Enough that it caused shifting problems in certain gears.

- cassette loose. Check your freehub and cassette to make sure there is no play.

- worn chain/cassette. I know you said the chain was good, but the most used gears are the ones you are talking about. What does your chain measure on a chain wear tool? 12 speed drivetrains wear faster. Should be replaced at 50%.

- derailleur or hanger are bent. Sometimes all it takes is a stick to get caught in your drivetrain or laying your bike down on the drive side to knock it.

Good luck. Drivetrain issues can be hard to troubleshoot.

I ordered the Alignment tool.

that's probably the problem. it looks like a pretty useful tool to have.

You could have bought a couple hangers for half the cost of that tool.

I do have a spare hanger.

And i also fall down a lot

Ive been in automotive repair for 20 years. Buying tools is never a bad thing.

Update, finally got the tool in. I decided last min to just get an aftermarket and not the park tools, which worked fine but took for fuckin ever to ship.

Hanger was bent in and back, after i adjusted it, then went through all the adjustments again it shifts freaking perfect.

One thing the tool also helped me notice was the 4" long bend in the wheel.

Time for a cushcore on the fatty. Wtf, it already weighs like 40lbs

I ditched the cushcores when I switched from carbon to aluminum rims. I'll never go back to them. My bike feels so much more alive now.

Good to hear.  I’ve got a similar issue on my SRAM Apex gravel bike.  I figure my cage is bent too.

4" and 6psi.

Dead feeling is kinda the goal

The reduced volume will probably wake it up a bit.

The dead feeling was slow acceleration, sluggish climbing, and popping off trail features was not as poppy. It was great when cornering though! Increased stiffness on the sidewalls let me really hit turns hard without worry of burping a tire. They are a must have for carbon wheels if you ride aggressive rough trails.

Yeah, I have one on the back of my 29er (evil following)

Only thing in really noticed was a bit better cornering..That bike accells hard and wants to pop off of everything, all the time, just by its design. Not much slowing it down.

Id really hateto have to push the fatty 10 miles through sand back home.(i live right on the edge of some fat bike trails) the jump line im pretty sure i did this on is about 10 miles out, accross a lot of sand. That would bigtime suck.

I never thought about just putting it only on the back.

I always figured if I did something to bend the front wheel, the wheel would be the least of my worries.