Like Jake said that's a real basic truck that's certainly been cleaned up nicely but with all the 4 speed, TD, and apparently REV trucks hitting the market the prices of these basic trucks is going to start dropping. I'd imagine you'll see that in the next couple months. The only 998s and 1038s I think that'll retain decent value are ones that have had a lot of work done on them but, I expect even ones like mine will drop too. I was at the point I could probably come out slightly ahead on my truck if I sold it but I have a feeling it will be into "break even" territory soon. Not that I ever have any plans to sell it but more as a barometer.

I would definitely recommend not getting hung up on tops, doors, and wipers. A lot of prospective buyers get turned off at the visuals of an incomplete truck but don't realize that almost all the trucks being sold with tops and doors are going to need them replaced. My soft doors were the original ones that came with the truck. Before I chopped them into half doors, I did a ton of stitching to fix them (because I'm cheap and wanted to see if they could be saved ). Once I got a good deal on a set of NOS soft doors with some cosmetic flaws I chopped them into soft half doors.

In fact, if you want, I'd cut you a good price on the complete sets of my full and half soft doors. With my hard full and half doors I really don't have any use for them and have been meaning to get them sold.

I'd offer the rest of the 4 man soft top conversion stuff too but that's all spoken for by Aguas (except maybe the modified rails, I don't think he wanted those but we'll talk).

200A dual volt (and possibly 100A on the real early trucks) is going to be found on all A2s and up trucks for sure. Anything with a 4L80 got one from the factory. On A0 and A1 trucks it's hit or miss. My truck came with it and my truck still had a 6.2. They were likely only upgraded as needed/the role required. My truck had signs of what looked like extra radio gear in it so mine probably got it for that reason.

Unfortunately sitting out in the elements with what may look like a top and doors, will probably still be exposing them. Not to mention the condition they were in when parked. As you can see from the pics in my OP, my truck had what looked like a complete top and doors. Well, come to find out at some point one of my doors was left open (the yards where they're stored don't really care) and the top was dry rotted nearly solid with cracks all over that let water in anyway. My truck had 2 high back seats up front that were completely soaked and moldy (in addition to being torn up from use). I cleaned out a ton of river mud/sand/rocks so I know my truck got plenty wet inside before I got it. Stands to reason most of these USMC trucks have as well, possibly salt water.

Just remember everything inside of these is sealed up pretty well for deep fording up to 60" of water (if age hasn't deteriorated it, in which case it should be replaced anyway) so water inside won't do anything. I've hosed/pressure washed the inside of mine out plenty of times, including with my add on gear in it. The only thing that's every had any problem was the Ibis Tek lightbar controller which is not sealed.

Nice truck for sure! Only thing I'd mention is I wouldn't put too much weight into that AC unit because A) there's a good chance it doesn't work and B) it's a great big Red Dot unit that takes up a ton of space. All the 11xx series trucks come with a much more compact and less intrusive setup. Better to piece one of those together or do a custom setup like I'm going to.

4 years in and I'm still not bored of mine. It may be a huge pain in the ass sometimes but I still love it!

cda, keep in mind, going from a 2 door truck to a 4 door, even that basic 4 man ragtop C Pillar can run upwards to $400 plus a chunk of change for freight because of the L+W+H surcharge/"dimensional weight".

This. The package from Breton is really the best bang for the buck since it includes everything with shipping.

@cda97.
I'd be a little more careful scrutinizing a USMC HMMWV.  Some of their trucks can spend a lot of time in a salt air environment and take a salt water bath fairly often, like Ryan alluded to.  The frame rails could be rotting from the inside out, among other things.  Salt can get into things and under paint and rot for a long time if not dealt with.

They salt the roads here in winter and my jeep a few years back, began to rust out from the inside out in many places even tho I regularly washed it often during those salty times.  I won't drive my HMWWV on the roads here in winter for that reason.

I really appreciate everyone's input to purchasing a Humvee.  Lots of things to consider and I'm excited to get this process going.

On a positive note, the frame rails aren't hard to find and can be replaced with a little work!

Are there any ways to identify a USMC vehicle other than the intake, exhaust and unit markings?

If it's a GovPlanet truck that says, "The Humvee sells with a clean SF97," then it's almost surely a USMC truck. The Corps has a different HMMWV disposal deal with GP than DLA/Army allowing trucks to be sold without off road only branding on the title unlike the Army trucks. Also, so far as I know, all of the A2 and up trucks sold have been USMC. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe Army has released anything but 998s and 1038s.

While searching other Humvees even in California it seems a bunch of USMC Humvees are coming across the auction block, might have to wait a while for something clean or better to come through.  Not saying all are bad because there are a couple worthy.

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about a USMC truck. Just do as much examination of the pics as you can before buying for telltale signs for rust, same as you would for any truck. They've been selling USMC trucks for just over 3 years and I don't recall coming across any complaints of excessive rust. Not to say there aren't any but I don't recall any. Like you said the Corps seems to do a decent job of additional corrosion prevention and they've had a long time to improve the process. There was supposed to be an MWO that included drilling holes in the bottoms of the frame rails to allow improved drainage and reduce the chances of the rails rusting out. This should be done on the later trucks but I can't say for sure.

Not to mention a lot of these trucks seem to be somewhat recent depot rebuilds so I'd think if there had been any rust issues they'd have been addressed during that.

Member @MaverickH1 has one of the early M1123s and didn't have any issues with rust so far as I know. Hopefully he can shed some light on his experience with a USMC truck.

@WS4LIF

More antennas!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/926042834191987/permalink/2578767665586154/?sale_post_id=2578767665586154

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I think the only thing that has slipped out as an army a2 are the m1097a2s.  I think.  Far as I know the USMC never had those, instead they had the m1123.

Forgot to share this with the group!







That poor marker light...

I can only say mine was very, very clean.  The only rust was on some of the MAK brackets they left on the undercarriage by accident.  I'm guessing they were not powdercoated to the same level of quality.

It's hard to say what the USMC trucks were used for.  My 2005 had 81 miles on the odometer in 2017 (IIRC).  And people will tell you that is impossible, including many of the experts in the HMMWV world.  But mine was in pristine condition.  The only wear I could see was some fading on the paint and other parts due to the top being removed for a while.

Mine had a reset in 2009.  So in theory it's possible they replaced the odometer at the reset.  However, I found a maintenance ticket under the seat, and that said that it had 50 miles on it in 2011.  So... I feel like some of them just sat.  Maybe they were training aids, maybe they spent their life being picked up and dropped by a Chinook.  I have no idea.  You can imagine that the MAK was the first true attempt at slapping armor onto the HMMWV, it seems feasible that many of them would be used for training to test out multiple logistical systems.

Just my opinion.  As @Ryan_Ruck said, just look very closely and be patient.  I made sure to get a clean one as best as I could.  Of course, since then I've ruined it.

Prime reason #1 to install an A2 Airlift Bumper.

Absolutely!

And an H1 tow hitch can't hurt either.

I always get a chuckle when people tailgate me.

You just cost me $350!

Just helping carry on the ARFCOM tradition.

I just ordered a fording kit for mine, I have wanted one for a while but figured I better jump on it before the corona virus kills me and I die without fording

pete

Now I’m looking for a eyecon 360 lighting kit if anyone knows where to pick one up reasonably priced let me know.

Getting ready for spring modifications

Pete

Ha! I was just coming in here to post and saw a new reply!

There were a bunch on eBay a couple years ago. I snagged one for $550 back then. They seem to have dried up and I haven't seen many around recently but I'll keep my eyes open!

Been meaning to update. I picked up my new H1 rocker protectors Thursday.

They aren't as cosmetically nice as the ones I've got but, as you can see, they've got the Gen 2 RubberDuck Rock Tubes and the RubberDuck 1/4" aluminum reinforcement plates (which I'm going to make a trace of).

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And finally snagged a proper 20' slave cable at a really good price!

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I also wanted to mention that my buddy that sold his HMMWV, and I got the rocker protectors from, still has a number of HMMWV parts he's looking to unload.

Of interest is a complete 6.5TD drivetrain (has the 200A dual volt but no A/C compressor, just the A/C delete, and has been stored indoors since he got it) along with complete A2 body harness, 4 speed shifter, TCM, turbo doghouse (I think, need to double check), and turbo crossover pipe (I think, need to double check). I believe pretty much everything you need to do a TD swap except the floor brackets for the doghouse! He also has a complete underbody protection kit and a deep fording exhaust (with correct fender bracket) and snorkel (I think, need to double check). He may also have an electronic speedo kit as well but I'm not for sure and, once again, I'll have to double check.

He did say he would make anyone who buys all of it a very good deal! If anyone is interested in all or some of it, let me know. I'm not sure if he'd want to part out the TD swap stuff but I can certainly ask.

I can attest that that drivetrain was EXPERTLY forked off of the trailer in georgetown, ky last fall by an EXPERT bobcat operator.

God dang I, i mean, he, did an EXPERT JOB.

Has anyone looked into or won an auction for a military vehicle from Hawaii? I would assume shipping is more than double being that it has to cross the ocean. Then shipping from port to your home. Is there any other hidden costs or fees I’m not aware of. The reason I ask is I’ve seen several auctions for Stuart & Stevenson LMTV’s from Hawaii going for roughly 1/4 the cost of a conus LMTV auction.

I assume they are priced to sell like that so you will pay the shipping to get them back to mainland USA and not them.

Edit:  There is an option to choose a carrier of your choice who will send you a bid/shipping price.

EUC was resubmitted to TSC 1/14/2020, approved today.

Somebody won a decent, running 2-man with fording kit, 2003 M1123 7619 miles, this morning for $5500 plus fees.  Has 2 decent green highbacks but needs a new hood.   https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/3306721?kwtag=p13n-V&h=

I saw that running M1078 sold on Pearl Harbor for $2050 as it was happening.  But for what is going to cost to ship 17,000 lbs, going to be cheaper to buy one out of Ft Bragg.

I've been watching the latest sales and still trying to determine what to bid on a future sale, the prices are  all over the place but hopefully some day I will be successful in choosing the right one.

edit:  of course the most complete the vehicle is the more it costs especially one with a turbo.  It's a gamble for sure, wish me luck.

You'll generally get what you pay for. Just so long as you don't worry about the soft bits and focus on the hardware it has and its condition, you're good. If you've got a specific one you're looking at, feel free to hit up me, Jake, or anyone else in here via PM for input.

As Ryan said, you generally get what you pay for. When we first got ours it was after the initial release and prices had dropped some. They continued to drop a little but fluctuated due to supply, demand, location, and condition. Just like right now you are seeing newer models coming out that are selling at a premium. But I expect those to drop. Second hand market that is ready to go with title in had is the same. However, on the second hand market you might getter a better deal as it may have been reconditioned, titled, no waiting, and more importantly you get to look it over and drive it first.

I would pick a style you are looking for and go from there. For example, if you want a slantback, then I would look for one already done as sourcing parts for those is getting harder and a lot more expensive. The guy local to me that flips these in his spare time had a customer pay over $11K just for the slantback parts and then he had to pay to have those parts reconditioned and installed. GMV parts seem to be more common right now, but weren't just two years ago and may not be in the future.

One funny thing right now was a guy at the grocery store asked my about it as he thought it would be easy to disinfect due to the Coronavirus scare. In a way they are easy to just open up and spray out so that might be a new marketing tool for those looking to sell. Or just a great justification to get one or in my case another. So tell your wife you need one now to prepare.

I appreciate your help and everyone else here, I drove past three convoys today on my way to see our son.  Several Humvees were in these convoys and pointed out to my wife the type I would like.  She doesn't have the same vision/passion as I do    When we arrived in Statesboro, GA we came across a few Humvees in a used car lot, all were M998 variants but no price tags, wouldn't even consider those.  On Ebay, there is a seller in Kentucky that has 300 plus Humvees for sale, I posted earlier about them but they are pretty much M998's that are cleaned up.  I'm going to speak to that seller and see which models he has that have the 6.5 and 4L80E trannys.  I'm just curious where his price point is compared to the ones for sale on govplanet.

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Only we can make fun of our trucks.

Now where do we find an M1151 for sale?  

GovPlanet selling now!

Seriously!

While observing these auctions for a month or so now I'm confused as why some vehicles are sold as not running because of no batteries or serpentine belt.  Wouldn't it be prudent to install batteries or a serpentine belt to have a running vehicle to bring in more money?

Or are these vehicles problem childs that won't start for whatever reason and have their batteries or serpentine belt stripped from them to help other vehicles to start?

I'm pretty sure Iron Planet is limited on what things they can do to the vehicles prior to the auction.  I'd guess it's a contractual/liability issue.  If they install the wrong belt, or belt wrong, and it nukes an accessory or whatever, they'd be on the hook possibly, it's easier just to leave it as-is.

Uggh!  Fuck this virus bullshit!  I want a Humvee damn it!

I work for a major airline and will have to put off this purchase until it passes.  

Really you should step it up.

I'm planning on using my truck to get through quarantine roadblocks!

Don't count me out, I'm pretty motivated.

Finally got my EUC approved, picked up the 1994 M1097A1 last Wed from Albany.  A little rougher in places (suspect GP didn't photograph obvious damage).

Truck is a former US Army M1097A1, looks like it was turned in then Dept of Defense tried giving Marines the Army's old, hand-me-downs, worn out junk, Marines were not having it, found this turn in label the last troop unit submitted with the truck for a replacement:
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stoner, any pics showing how much rougher it was than expected?

Don't trust GP to photograph the worst of the damage.   I think if I were EVER to buy another truck I would select a few I was interested in then schedule appt to inspect in person.   The gas is less than the cost of one wheelhouse, let alone the labor swapping it out.  In this case I can press it out with a hydraulic jack, set in a pair of full length cargo bed "liners" based on the issue ones but full length.    GMV style diamond plate wheelhouse toppers.
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I got a usable Pioneer Tool Kit with it....if I replace all the handles with fiberglass.

So I have been rotating through my jerry cans the past few months and was wanting to see if everyone is still using Stabill as the preferred stabilizer. Also any additives that anyone recommends?

I've used Sta-Bil with good results, burning some +8 year old gasoline stored in sealed jerry cans mixed with some fresh with no noticed performed change.

That said I think PRI-G for gasoline and PRI-D for diesel for long term fuel storage are preferred these days according to the Survival Forum.

M1097A1 starting to look respectable again.  I used my lawn tractor cart to move the replacement hood, and used a 110v Chicom Freight electric hoist to lift it onto the engine deck:

Before:
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After:
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A2 front teardrop shackles on, Instrument cluster & Batteries in, 3sp shifter in, tried to start it, discovered I have part of the fuel line from the uplift pump to the filter housing missing, need to order a check valve, pipe thread adapter, 13mm fuel/oil hose and 2 hose clamps.

I found this interesting

Cool video Ben! Thanks for sharing!

That's an uncommon truck in the video, being equipped with CTIS.

I wish someone would just out of the blue ask if I'd like a late model 1151 with winch and CTIS...

Just bought some maintenance manuals, preparing for my future purchase.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMVEE-TM-9-2320-280-20-1-2-3-Maintenance-Manuals-Super-Bundle/174046953477?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

cda97 the 20-3 is worth it for the wiring schematics alone, often the PDFs get unreadable when you magnify them enough to see.

The Green Beast has batteries, PCB appears to work, I got the check valve and 3/8" fuel line installed on the fuel filter cannister, but she still won't turn over.  Next step is to unscrew on of the rear injectors to see if the IP is pushing to cylinders, then change the glow plugs.

Got 2 new power cables for it, the positive from the isolator lug to the alternator and the negative to ground cable inside battery box, the original cabling is kinda crunchy and grey.

Getting one of the Warn potted OLI control upgrade kits for it to replace the old style black connector in the metal remote box to direct wire to a 3 pin Amphenol on the Fording Valve panel, want to replace the #0 main power cabling for it, too. The rest of the winch you can buy replacement parts for.  I see an all black molded plastic Warn winch remote with a commercial connector, want to use the male 3 pin Amphenol connector from the OLI upgrade kit to work on the HMMWV instead of the yellow plastic Warn remote.

No SF97 for it, yet but I am going to try to get County SO out this week to sign the VIN verification forms for FL DMV for all 3 trucks, Green Beast and 2 GMV.

Seconded on what stoner said about the wiring diagram. That will be a big help.

Just know there's PDFs out there with newer revision dates that will have more up to date info on some things. Since those are 1993 dated, they predate even the A1 998s.