So here is the deal, I am trying to get a snowblower up and running for a friend. It wasn't running so I started to eliminate the issues. Replaced the gas and spark plug and ensured it had a spark. Gas wasn't making it to the bowl so I addressed that by cleaning the seat. Then gas wasn't getting to the main chamber so I cleaned the float that screws into the bottom of the bowl. I also replaced the throttle spring and linkage as both had seen better days. With all of that done, she fired up on the first pull. I felt the throttle components weren't quite right judging by how there is very little movement with the throttle is moved up and down. I noticed this before I took it apart. I didn't quite care that the throttle couldn't be dropped down much but after a few minutes of running, it dies on its own. When it is running, the linkage and such move around quite a bit. If you are willing, watch the videos and tell me what seems to be wrong with the linkage and throttle components. I don't know if the issues are related and the vibration is moving the throttle down and cuts off the motor. Thanks in advance!

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Linkage all looks fine to me, sounds like running outta fuel to me, remove float and needle and run a fine wire up fuel shut off needle valve, ethanol build up or dirt would be my guess.   One more quick doubtful idea.. remove fuel cap when it’s running and see if that makes a differnce.. if not back to first idea

There are idle passages still blocked. Ethanol in the fuel absorbs water. When the fuel evaporates, the water causes corrosion which blocks the passages. Getting those passages open by blowing with compressed air and probing with wire will usually work. Best thing is get any remaining fuel out of the tank when you finish using it. I like to use some gas with some 2 stroke oil in it so when the undrained fuel evaporates there is an oil film left behind. Also, if the tank connects to the carb with a hose, put a shut off valve in that line and run the carb dry after use.

Awesome, thanks guys for the help so far. I just ordered a new Carb for it. Was like 12.99 on ebay. Can't hurt to try it. I am going to try and still clean this one just for the experience. While I am waiting, I will try the gas cap idea. I read that somewhere else as well.

Id probably just fix the one you have if the throttle shaft bore isn't wore out.  I prefer to have an OEM carb, even if it means buying parts that cost a little more than a new aftermarket china junk.  There are times when you have to go aftermarket but Id at least get one from a small engine parts distributor like Oregon.

First I empty the gas tank, Get any debris in it.  Let the fuel line drain a little to get and crap out of it.  Remove the bowl, clean it out,  spray carb cleaner on the carb above the bowl.  Then I spray carb cleaner in the intake.

I will also take the idle adjustment screw out and shoot carb cleaner in it.

If that doesn't work then I order a new carb.

Tell him to only run ethanol free gas from now on.

I would imagine it  is too. I would hope with an OEM you would have some sort of quality control in place.  That way your not buying a carb that was pulled out of the rejected scrap pile by a factory worker trying to make a few bucks on the side.

When I first read this, I could not believe it was important.

Fresh gas is, after all, fresh gas.

As it turns out, using ethanol-free gasoline is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING to do with your small engines.