Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Page General » Pets
Posted: 11/12/2018 5:04:56 PM EDT
I just got a male cinnamon python and a female banana python they are a little over a month old. Lend me any tips tricks advice etc.. new to snakes but grew up with a couple lizards.

Link Posted: 11/12/2018 7:21:35 PM EDT
[#1]
don't lose it in your house
Link Posted: 11/13/2018 7:37:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
don't lose it in your house
View Quote
No kidding
Link Posted: 11/14/2018 3:03:11 AM EDT
[#3]
Hoo boy.

Ball pythons are not beginner snakes in my opinion. However you have a leg up considering you have some experience with lizards. A few simple tips for you to be aware of...

- Humidity needs to be ideal! Respiratory infections can kill. But you need to see what percentage works best for your noodle child. Some people say 35% - 45%. Others say higher.

- They are VERY picky eaters. Do not worry about this too much. However, concern should arise if they don't feed after months of trying and you start seeing their spine. They are too skinny if you can see their spine. Frozen food is best. If they don't eat it right away then leave it in their enclosure and check back on them. If they don't eat after a while, take it away and try again later.

- If you just got them, they need time to acclimate to their new home. Give them a couple weeks to adjust well enough to start handling.

- They like small, dark spaces. Get a lot of hides for them. Of course get a hot, cold, and shed hide. You'll likely never see them wandering around the tank 90% of the time to be honest.

Not sure what else to write since there is a lot to say. I've got a lot of info to give so if you have any questions, just let me know!

I personally own a leopard gecko but I've taken care of several reptiles in the past. Enjoy your noodles!
Link Posted: 11/14/2018 3:24:49 AM EDT
[#4]
Get rid of the wood hide and get a plastic one, like the ones at Pangeareptile.com.  Much easier to sanitize and better use of the space as far as how they curl up.

If that's screen top is hard to stabilize the humidity with, get a piece of plexi and put it underneath it to help close up the open space through the screen.  Big water bowl helps with humidity.

Use a under tank heater for their heat, not a stone, and get a thermostat so you don't cool your pet.

Switch them to rats as soon as you can, better nutrition than mice most say.

Order rats/mice online, way way cheaper.  Figure out what they are eating and order half that size and half the next step up so you don't pay rape prices on shipping orders (usually $30 or so for dry ice boxes).
Link Posted: 11/14/2018 4:23:24 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Hoo boy.

Ball pythons are not beginner snakes in my opinion. However you have a leg up considering you have some experience with lizards. A few simple tips for you to be aware of...

- Humidity needs to be ideal! Respiratory infections can kill. But you need to see what percentage works best for your noodle child. Some people say 35% - 45%. Others say higher.

- They are VERY picky eaters. Do not worry about this too much. However, concern should arise if they don't feed after months of trying and you start seeing their spine. They are too skinny if you can see their spine. Frozen food is best. If they don't eat it right away then leave it in their enclosure and check back on them. If they don't eat after a while, take it away and try again later.

- If you just got them, they need time to acclimate to their new home. Give them a couple weeks to adjust well enough to start handling.

- They like small, dark spaces. Get a lot of hides for them. Of course get a hot, cold, and shed hide. You'll likely never see them wandering around the tank 90% of the time to be honest.

Not sure what else to write since there is a lot to say. I've got a lot of info to give so if you have any questions, just let me know!

I personally own a leopard gecko but I've taken care of several reptiles in the past. Enjoy your noodles!
View Quote
I had an iguanna and a tokay gecko when I was growing up. Damn that gecko was mean and that iguanna was smart
Link Posted: 11/14/2018 10:48:39 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I had an iguanna and a tokay gecko when I was growing up. Damn that gecko was mean and that iguanna was smart
View Quote
Oh lord! Tokay geckos are so mean!! Never met one that was nice.
Link Posted: 11/16/2018 4:14:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Oh lord! Tokay geckos are so mean!! Never met one that was nice.
View Quote
Yep it was a mean thing ripped the PetSmart employees finger open when the employee went to grab it.
Link Posted: 11/17/2018 1:46:58 AM EDT
[#8]
The ARFCOM of Ball Pythons (and other cool herps)

Humidity 50-60%, cool side 78-80*F, warm side 88-92*F, a snug-fitting hide on the warm side and cool side, big water bowl, and if you have a tank cover the top with aluminum foil to retain heat and humidity as glass is a poor insulator.

Heating appliances MUST be regulated by a thermostat or you end up with a vet bill for a burned snake and you still need to get a thermostat.

Find a good herp vet before you need one.

Find out from the seller what they were eating and how often, if that info didn't come with them.  Offer them the same for the first 2-3 feedings and then start switching over to frozen/thaw rats if they aren't on them already.  I try to get my neonates on f/t as fast as possible.

As babies they should eat weekly if they feel secure and have adequate heat and humidity.  As adults they may go months without eating; the record for one of my males is 8 months.

For your third snake I would suggest a boa, as it will happily eat the leftovers from your ball pythons so you don't waste feeders.

Finally, the little darlings are like Pringles; you don't stop at one.  Or two.  Don't be surprised if in a few years you have several racks and stacks in a "herp room".
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 3:41:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The ARFCOM of Ball Pythons (and other cool herps)

Humidity 50-60%, cool side 78-80*F, warm side 88-92*F, a snug-fitting hide on the warm side and cool side, big water bowl, and if you have a tank cover the top with aluminum foil to retain heat and humidity as glass is a poor insulator.

Heating appliances MUST be regulated by a thermostat or you end up with a vet bill for a burned snake and you still need to get a thermostat.

Find a good herp vet before you need one.

Find out from the seller what they were eating and how often, if that info didn't come with them.  Offer them the same for the first 2-3 feedings and then start switching over to frozen/thaw rats if they aren't on them already.  I try to get my neonates on f/t as fast as possible.

As babies they should eat weekly if they feel secure and have adequate heat and humidity.  As adults they may go months without eating; the record for one of my males is 8 months.

For your third snake I would suggest a boa, as it will happily eat the leftovers from your ball pythons so you don't waste feeders.

Finally, the little darlings are like Pringles; you don't stop at one.  Or two.  
Don't be surprised if in a few years you have several racks and stacks in a "herp room".
View Quote
Funny you should mention that...we now have two corn snakes now as well lol. How did you get them to transition from like to frozen thawed mice?
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 11:06:52 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Funny you should mention that...we now have two corn snakes now as well lol. How did you get them to transition from like to frozen thawed mice?
View Quote
Corns should be easy to switch, they're usually voracious.  They may skip a few meals but they will eat eventually.  If they are adults they may back off eating a bit over the winter even if you don't brumate them but their appetites should come back in the spring.

Make sure the f/t feeder is very warm - about 105*F - before being offered.  One trick is to let them thaw in warm water close to where the snakes are so the scent permeates the room, then give the mice a quick heat boost using a blow drier just before offering to the snake.  Use tongs and don't "zombie dance" the feeder directly up to the snake, get the feeder close and make it act like it's going to "walk" by.  Chances are the snake will just hit it.

I switch my ball pythons while they are very young, growing, and always hungry.  Switching an adult is an exercise in patience.
Link Posted: 11/18/2018 10:47:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Corns should be easy to switch, they're usually voracious.  They may skip a few meals but they will eat eventually.  If they are adults they may back off eating a bit over the winter even if you don't brumate them but their appetites should come back in the spring.

Make sure the f/t feeder is very warm - about 105*F - before being offered.  One trick is to let them thaw in warm water close to where the snakes are so the scent permeates the room, then give the mice a quick heat boost using a blow drier just before offering to the snake.  Use tongs and don't "zombie dance" the feeder directly up to the snake, get the feeder close and make it act like it's going to "walk" by.  Chances are the snake will just hit it.

I switch my ball pythons while they are very young, growing, and always hungry.  Switching an adult is an exercise in patience.
View Quote
The corns are already on frozen and they are about 7, the pythons are about a month and a half got both the pythons to successfully take a thawed. Mouse so im pretty stoked.
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 2:15:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Cornsnake number 1

" />

Cornsnake number 2

" />
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 2:42:28 PM EDT
[#13]
I was goin to say cut it’s fuckin head off but I see you are in WA. I approve your noodle pet.
Only because if it gets out or you are of weak character and turn it loose. The Critter can not survive to procrate in the woods of WA. So noodle on.
Previous snake person. Only native species though. South Florida will support every dam reptile known. A real problem.
Yes..temp, humidity and make sure good clean water.
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 9:47:04 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I was goin to say cut it’s fuckin head off but I see you are in WA. I approve your noodle pet.
Only because if it gets out or you are of weak character and turn it loose. The Critter can not survive to procrate in the woods of WA. So noodle on.
Previous snake person. Only native species though. South Florida will support every dam reptile known. A real problem.
Yes..temp, humidity and make sure good clean water.
View Quote
Having lived in South Florida all my life (and left more many reasons), I hate that they let any snake be a pet.

And they wonder why the Everglades has such a problem.
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 10:39:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Having lived in South Florida all my life (and left more many reasons), I hate that they let any snake be a pet.

And they wonder why the Everglades has such a problem.
View Quote
Our snakes will not be let into the wild and will likely be very spoiled and die of old age.
Link Posted: 11/19/2018 10:40:21 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Those are some awesome looking corn snakes!!
View Quote
Thanks! The original owners never had them sexed so I could have a male and female(my hope) or two males or two females (wouldn't complain about that one either)
Link Posted: 12/18/2018 10:45:45 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Our snakes will not be let into the wild and will likely be very spoiled and die of old age.
View Quote
This may be a LONG time.  I’ve had my ball python for 30 years now as of last August!

Advice:

Get them used to eating killed mice and dont feed live it’s not worth the risk of injury.   They may have some feeding challenges, mine has gone off food 2-3 times in the years I have had him, if this happens keep an eye on body condition and offer small meals to entice them to start as the daylight cycle increases.

Heat gradient in the cage is important.
Link Posted: 1/30/2019 10:29:11 PM EDT
[#19]
Well it's been a few months since I last updated. Our little house of reptiles has slowly grown from two pythons to four the two new pythons are several years older than our two young ones one is a spider ball python and the other is an orange dream. I also have the option to purchase a breeding pair of corn snakes that have the same coloration as my red colored corn snake, I don't have a price yet that being said the female I have been told is likely to lay a clutch soon. What do you guys do for incubation if she infact does have a clutch brewing and I do purchase them.
Link Posted: 1/30/2019 11:36:46 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What do you guys do for incubation if she infact does have a clutch brewing and I do purchase them.
View Quote
Well, you either buy or make an incubator.  I bought one.

Personally I prefer substrateless incubation, it's cleaner and the eggs stay plenty humid but they don't get wet or mold if you set the egg tubs up correctly.
Page General » Pets
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top